Zhaoxing (Zhao Xing), Guizhou
Zhaoxing was one of the most interesting villages in Guizhou. They only get about 700 visiters per year but that will be changing quickly with the addition of an airport nearby. It is a killer ride on the roads to get there but definitely worth it.
Zhaoxing still has its traditional wooden structures including a number of "Wind and Rain Bridges" along with a total of five drum towers. What is a "Wind and Rain" Bridge? It is a wooden, covered corridor bridge, with pavilions and benches for people to rest on. Since the bridge shields people from wind, rain and sunshine, it is called a "Wind and Rain" Bridge...simple...when it was explained to us.
We arrived in the early evening and most people were seated in and around the Drum Tower, drinking and celebrating the Lusheng Festival. Others were spreading their rice and corn alongside the roads to dry, and hanging rice on the drying racks in the fields. No one leaves the cut rice in the fields at night. They are worried about someone stealing their crop. The Dong in this village continue to wear traditional clothing and speak only their native Dong language.
Expats we met, compared it to Lijiang about 10 years ago. Unlike us, they were staying for a few days and day-hiking to different villages around Zhaoxing. That's the way to do it and another day there would have been perfect.
Lu-Lu's guesthouse is pretty much the only really decent place in town. More than adequate with delicious food and they sold beer. It was crowded but we lucked out and actually got a room with a toilet in it - no bath or shower - but the all-important toilet. There were communal showers on the ground floor, and they even had a computer and let us use the Internet. We liked Lu-Lu's and it is pretty easy to find in Zhaoxing...lots of signs pointing the way.
drinks and dinner at Lu-Lu's
More about the Dongs. Their diet consists mainly of rice; women are on the low end of the social ladder; monogamy is practiced; some of the witch doctors are disappearing; the health situation has improved; and more children are attending school. Facts in a nutshell.
drying grain in Zhaoxing
There was just one more village, No. 1 Big Dong Village Under Heaven (that's the actual name) then the long ride back to Kaili. Some of our rides were 8-10 hours but having a chance to visit with all the different villages and people made it extremely worthwhile.
No. 1 Big Dong Village Under Heaven
Guizhou is not a physically demanding trip - just have to be able to get in and out of cars and walk short distances. But you do need a sense of adventure, along with insatiable curiosity, to travel in these remote parts of the world and deal with the many inconveniences. (Or, you have to be certifiably insane according to our children.) It won't be much longer before these minorities have televisions, cell phones, MTV, and wear blue jeans. Yes, their lives will be "better" but their ancient cultures will disappear and be missed. Visit while you can...and experience this before it is gone forever.
Goodbye to the long-skirts, short skirts, Miaos, Dongs and their traditional lives. On to Shanghai......
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