When Snowshoeing on A Ski Hill in Austria Goes Bad
ex-Marine (husband, Steve) has one stock answer whenever friends/acquaintances comment that they'd love to travel with us. "No you don't! Perhaps this incident will explain his emphatic answer.
Winter is coming and with that, my thoughts turn to snowshoeing, a favorite winter sport. If ex-Marine had his druthers, he'd spend the winter either in a warm climate or sitting on a couch with a glass of wine in his hand, watching Lifetime, Oprah or True Crime Stories. Unfortunately for the poor guy, he happens to be married to someone who looks for a little challenge and adventure. "He doesn't have to go with you," you say, and, yes, you are right. ex-Marine usually rants, raves and runs around the house like a maniac screaming, "Go by yourself...take one of the kids...find a friend" when he hears my latest vacation suggestion. And when I prepare to do just that, he caves in.
Over the years, we turned from downhill skiing (Alpine), to cross country skiing (Langlauf) to snowshoeing after several winters of scant snow. Snowshoes give the ability to hike uphill (we don't do flat) even with less than one inch of snow. You just clomp through bare sections.
This particular trip took place in Soll, Austria located between the towns of Worgl and St. Johann, with famous and glamorous Kitzbuhel just down the road from St. Johann. The area is extremely well connected by buses that run all day between Scheffau, Ellmau, Going and continue to Kitzbuhel.
When we hike or snowshoe, I prefer exploring different routes along with a point A to B to C approach rather than out-and-backs. This day was no exception. A plan to begin and end in Ellmau but make a big circle before returning downhill by a different route. Uphill snowshoeing burns off tons of calories, even more than hiking because you have snowshoes on your feet that act as weights. We're talking lifting approximately 2 pounds per foot with each step. Cross country uphill burns over 900 calories an hour and you slide skis forward rather than lift each foot with snowshoes on.
The local bus stopped in Ellmau and we began the slow plod uphill, keeping to the edge of the ski trail ("piste") and watching out for skiers. Uphills are hot, sweaty and exhausting but the sun was out and there are distractions with other skiers to watch while an occasional skier would schuss to a stop to ask us about the snowshoes. ...Vas is dat? Snee-Schuhen?...
Finally at the top of a ridge, a vigorous and loud "discussion" between us over which route to take. He wanted to turn around and go back down. I insisted on continuing in a circle, assuring ex-Marine that route would lead us back down to Ellmau. Off we went for another hour or so, reached the top of a closed chairlift and began the very easy downhill. Downhilling on snowshoes is undemanding, fast and more coordinated people run downhill. Tried that once, ended up tripping over my own feet and rolling downhill...another speedy way to get to the bottom.
It was now late afternoon, becoming colder and we were both exhausted. Approaching the bottom of this run, ex-Marine started screaming and cursing a blue streak. In front of us was a deeply wooded farmer's property, completely fenced off (high fence) with no way to get around it. A dead-end, with no access to base. How would I have known that by just looking at a ski map? At least, that's what I screamed back. Absolutely no choice but to turn around, snowshoe back up the slope and then head down to Ellmau on the original route. Fortunately, ex-Marine stopped uttering curses, saving his breath for the tiring uphill and very long way back down to base.
Oh happy day (I'm being sarcastic)...the last bus had stopped running to base and we'd have to walk into Ellmau proper to catch a bus back. There was a happy looking cabbie sitting in the parking lot who wanted a "mere" $40 to drive one-mile away. No way, Jose! No longer on speaking terms, we silently began the plod into town on zero reserves of energy.
ex-Marine strongly suggests that you never travel with Sheila unless you are game for the unexpected, have a little endurance and can say....another fine mess you've gotten us into...without becoming hysterical. Happy winter snowshoeing! (p.s. We're heading to Morzine, France this winter...)
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