Walking The Cinque Terre in Two Days
We decided to tackle the Cinque Terre walk by starting in Monterossa heading in an Easterly direction since Monterossa was on the Genoa-La Spezia line. Most written directions start the hike in Riomaggiore, going West. Another option tourists have, is taking a ferry rather than the train to reach these little towns...very scenic but slower. The train was very crowded with other like-minded tourists intent on hiking or exploring the Cinque Terre. (Check out the APT Cinqueterre website for lots of information.)
The Cinque Terre consists of five fishing villages on the hillside, all extremely picturesque. The trails are very well marked and anyone can do the entire hike or just walk parts of the steep trails connecting the villages. There isn't a motorable road between them. You must train, ferry or walk...
Down from the FS Station through Monterossa heading towards the blue route along the sea The trail contours the sea for the entire distance with some ups and downs on mule tracks and steep, stone stairs. The entire length of the Cinque Terre, from Monterossa to Riomaggiore, only takes about 5 hours total walking, but we thought it would be more enjoyable to break it up into two days. Tourists were already sitting at outdoor cafes in the pretty village, drinking coffee and admiring the view.
Once on the trail, I was in for a rude awakening. No description had ever prepared me for how narrow the trail was in some sections and how many people were on the trail coming towards us, from behind, everyone trying to edge past each other without falling off steep drops into the water. Not happy! My only solution was to hug the inside, cliff side, the entire distance...there was no way I was moving to the outside of the trail. Finally, Vernazza in sight. The APT descriptiion even says..."from Vernazza the longer and more tortuous stretch begins where one must be careful due to the nature of the soil.." Did I read this before setting foot on the trail? Of course not...
Gorgeous Vernazza was loaded with even more tourists eating wonderful looking lunches ...they definitely had the right idea...we settled for a Gelato three-scooper. (For more details, restaurant recommendations, and a photo of Vernazza visit Rick Steves internet site.) My camera decided to die in this unbelievable little town...so...no photos of my own. You'll just have to visit yourself.
Back to Santa Margherita, very tired and ready for dinner at one of the many tasty restaurants in town. Tomorrow, we'd attack Part #2 of the trail, supposedly with wider trails.
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