Tsedang, Yambulhakhang Palace and Trandrak Monastery
Tsedang is the cradle of Tibetan civilization and the area is filled with important historical landmarks, Samye being one of the most important. Back in Lhasa for just one night and the Hotel Shangbhala. One last walk around the Barkhor looking for a new set of prayer flags. Do not pay more than $1.00 for a medium-size set. That is the going price and just walk away if someone quotes higher. If they don't come running after you, someone else will. Just because you are a "white devil" doesn't mean "sucker" is written on your forehead. Mission accomplished, out to dinner at the Tibetan equivalent of a spicy Kentucky Fried Chicken on the second floor of a restaurant overlooking the Barkor, and a fast re-pack.
We allotted two full days for the Tsedang area to visit Samye, Yambulakhang Palace,Trandrak Monastery and Tombs of Tibetan Kings, staying in Tsedang for two nights at the Snow Pigeon Hotel. On the road, we had the second (or third) car breakdown. Same thing...probably tons of dirt in the carb. Each time, driver got out of car tools in hand...started fiddling...and sooner or later it would start running...never smoothly. ex-Marine and I held our breath each time and waited for it to give up the ghost. Motor now running we headed to Yambulakhang Palace.
The Yambulakhang Palace is situated about 12 kms/7 miles south of Tsedang, built by King Nyatri Tsedpo who is believed to have descended from heaven. An amazing sight from any angle, built on top of a hill with views of entire region and thought to be the first building in Tibet. Unfortunately, the original was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution and this structure is an exact replica of the original. Even so, quite imposing. Parked the car and started walking up a trail to the top, spent some time there and moved along to Trandrak Monastery.
Trandrak Monastery is a small monastery undergoing recomstruction, 7 kms/4+ miles south of Tsetang. There really wasn't very much to see and the most interesting part was the pilgrims eating their lunch on steps outside a small shop waiting for their local transport.
The entire Yarlung and Chongye Valleys are very fertile and it was nice to see patchworks of green fields all irrigated by rivers. The Tombs of the Kings were scattered over a large area. Each king was buried along with statues and precious objects. The tombs were primarily in ruins and this was another sight you can definitely take a pass on seeing.
It was enough for today. Back to the extremely modern Snow Pigeon Hotel in Tsedang for decisions and dinner. First a decision. With only Samye left to visit, it wasn't necessary to spend another night in Tsedang. We asked Tenzin to call the airport for us and see if we could cut one day off the itinerary (didn't expect any refund) and change our flight to Chengdu. Mission accomplished. Next, dinner. Tenzin joined us in the dining room where we were the only dinner guests. At least three waitresses completely devoted theirselves to us. They hovered...folded napkins...refolded napkins......brought hot towels...refolded more napkins...watched us eat...smiling the entire time. I found it a little disconcerting having waitresses watch our every move...but they were so sweet...
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