Tingri to Shigatse
All the way to Tingri, ex-Marine and I kept marveling at our luck having such a crystal-clear day. With Everest's changeable weather, there is never a guarantee that you'll really be able to see the North Face of Mount Everest. So very fortunate! Again, Spring and Fall are the best times for Mount Everest viewing.
Tingri is set at an atitude of 14,600', and what a pleasure it was to almost be able to breathe again. We got to the Tingri Everest Hotel and knew from the lengthy conversation Tenzin was having with the desk clerk that something good was not happening. Sure enough, Tenzin and clerk approached with the news that clerk wanted to show us a different room because every room in the hotel was competely booked by a big Chinese group. Puzzled...we have reservations...followed the clerk out the hotel to some so-so rooms across a courtyard. Definitely sub-standard. Back in the Tingri Everest, we have a fast conversation with Tenzin and discover that the Chinese group hadn't arrived yet. With that ex-Marine heads to the desk clerk and nicely, but firmly, states that we were here...they were not...give us our room and put one of the Chinese in that room. Probably because the Hotel didn't want to lose face, they gave us the room. And, FYI, this is one of those hotels were there was only hot water between 7:30pm and Midnight, one of those things that are always after-the-fact and they neglect to tell you.
If ex-Marine hadn't spoken up, we would have been out in back rather than in this nice hotel. Tibetan organizations abroad ask that visitors try, whenever possible, to hire Tibetans and buy from Tibetans. That sounds well and good and that's what we thought we were doing. At the end of the trip in Lhasa, we met Tenzin's partner, Tony. Tony is Chinese! This small tour company had absolutely no clout or ability to get anything done and typically had to sit and take whatever is given to them. The facts are - you need a Chinese-run organizer with some clout or you are S.O.L.
Another scheduled stop was supposed to be Sakya, a historical sight and very Tibetan. The fortress-like southern monastery is reputed to be very interesting, but not for us. Tenzin said it was dropped from the itinerary because the roads were being rebuilt but we met a man back in Shigatse (traveling independently) whose guide managed to arrange it for him. Tenzin just wasn't pro-active. A shame since we had come so far to see these sights. We even told Tenzin that we would pay a small bribe if that would do the trick. However, Tenzin never tried. (Bribes are just part of doing business in this part of the world...get used to it!)
The old market in Shigatse (now 14,300') was quite interesting. Filled with jewelery, fake antiques and religious objects, there were some unique pieces scattered among them if you take the time to look. There was one necklace that I decided against and never saw again. Boo-hoo... Unfortunately, it was also one of those places where people physically grab you by the arm, trying to sell something. It was... "lookie... lookie...just lookie, cheap...cheap...how much...how much..." over and over again and I absolutely detest being grabbed.
Tibet is filled with such an interesting culture, but you also have to put up with (or develop tunnel vision) people blowing their noses with fingers, spitting on the sidewalk (excuse me...ex-Marine just corrected me...there are no sidewalks), and beggers...."no money....have babies...no money." Tibetan people always give something to a person begging no matter how little they have themselves. As a result, begging is the norm. The entire area around the Potala Palace in Lhasa was filled with literally rows of people begging for money. The constant assault on senses is exhausting. Rewarding...but exhausting.
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