The Yemen Ramlat As-Sabatayn Desert Crossing to Seiyun
Today was the big desert crossing. Sarah Timewell was on her way back to Sana'a with Bill (leaving Carolyn in charge) and would catch up with us. No contact lenses for me, scarves and anything else we could think of to protect against the sand. This was going to be an all-day journey. Tough, rugged and you wanted every orifice covered. A departure at 3:30 AM to take advantage of the morning's cool temperatures, into the 4WD's, with Bedouin guides and armed guards that included another teenager sitting directly behind me holding his automatic AK-47. If that doesn't inspire terror, I don't know what does. He kept smiling...and I kept thinking...what if he decides to blow my brains out for the fun of it? Anyhow, he had 265 miles to think about scattering my brains all over the car before leaving the desert.
All you could see in the darkness were flares from the oil fields but with the dawn came the large and beautiful dunes. A spectacular sunrise out there in the desert silence with just our group and nothing to be seen into infinity but sand. The first few hours in the dunes were fun and exciting. Scarves covering our mouths and heads, while the men went native with kaffiyeh's (a head covering usually worn by Arab men)...
Every now and then one of the 4WD's would get stuck in the sand, everyone would hop out and the Bedouins would push it out and get going again. They also made us get out of the 4WD's on some particularly steep dunes while the driver gunned it down the slopes. I think there was a possibility that vehicle could turn over with us in it. No one ever minded getting out and stretching legs for a bit.
Dunes behind, the terrain became flatter with scrub and mountains in the distance and the occasional flat tire...
After 4-6 hours, we came across the ancient site of Shabwa and stopped to explore the unexcavated temple ruins and salt pits. The other excitement (as it was) - a very dead snake... It's the little things that keep you going and break the monotony... By now, I was hoping the armed guard behind me would shoot and put me out of my misery...bumping along...sand everywhere including teeth...faces covered with grit...and hair - you wouldn't have believed the amount of sand in my hair even with a hat on. I was not happy...
Rarely, we saw some camels (most looking very mangey and in need of food) and Bedouin tents. The group was invited into one for a visit with the Bedouins. It was a pleasure to get out of the sun, stretch out and after courtesies were observed, they brought out a very small selection of curios for sale. Nothing exciting and I don't think there were any sales out there in the desert...
Between 7-11 very long hours later, we left the desert, said goodbye to our Bedouin guides who were then going to immediately recross the desert! What stamina and it was probably going to take a lot of Qat to keep them awake. One more hour to Seiyun, a very needed shower and rest. It was absolutely mind-blowing to come out of the desert all grungy and see the magnificent Al Hawta Palace Hotel...talk about mirages. Al Hawta Palace Hotel was once the family residence of a local Sheikh and unexpectedly comfortable as well as beautiful.
The two eldest people in our group were amazing. I was a wreck from all the jostling, sand in every crevice of my body, exhausted and crabby after this long journey. Whereas Don and Lucy got out of their 4WD and said..."wasn't that the most exhilarating trip?" What a great attitude!
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