The Way of St. James: A Little Hindsight Information
There was still time to re-walk the little Conques streets and enjoy. The first 123 miles of the Way of St. James was over. Just think...the total section from Le Puy to the Pyrenees was 740 kms/459 miles, only another 336 miles to go. And then, the almost equal amount of miles from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostella. Very happy that I didn't have to set out the next morning with all the other pilgrims. Very sad that I wasn't setting out with the rest of the pilgrims. We both felt as if we'd dropped out of a Marathon while everyone else was on their way to the finish line.
Every time I saw the little GR 65 signs directing the pilgrims out of Conques, I heaved a deep sigh of regret that we weren't continuing on next long section to the French Pyrenees...Figeac...Moissac...through Cahors...with St. Jean Pied de Port (Saint John at the Foot of the Pass - a small border town) the final destination on that leg. We'd need three more weeks minimum to accomplish that.
First dinner. Our hotel Auberge St. Jacques had another Michelin recommended restaurant and had also been written up in the Gault Millau. There were three separate eating areas. The main floor for ice cream and light snacks; and the second floor had two different sections - one room for a "dressier" gourmet experience - and the other for 1/2 pension guests, both inside and outside on the terrace, overlooking the Cathedral. Since it was a gorgeous night (they have been few and far between), we grabbed a table outside.
Our pilgrimage was over and here are a few observations (along with some hindsight) from The Way of St. James:
- Should have packed thermal underwear or tights to wear alone or under shorts. It was beastly cold and rainy.
- Forgot to bring a French-English menu translation. I downloaded one off the Internet and saved to my laptop...otherwise... Did you know that "gessiers" are gizzards? "de Muru," a pate of codfish? Or "Aligot," a mashed potatoes with cheese dish? I did know that "rognons de veau" were kidneys...learned that lesson years ago and, believe you me, I'll never forget that! We both can eat almost anything but not gessiers.
- If your 1/2 board menu isn't acceptable, ask if you could change to ala carte of equal value or substitute something else or pay the difference.
- Schedule a rest day!
- If you take vitamins, calcium or other supplements, bring them. A breakfast of bread, jam and coffee doesn't go far in fulfilling your body's requirements.
- You can drink tap water all over France unless it is marked "non-potable" - that means don't drink it!
- Even if you don't speak French, there is usually someone who speaks English and will help you out. A perfect example: We were on the RER heading from Paris-Austerlitz Train Statiion out to CDG. As the RER stopped at different stations, a women learned over and said in perfect English, "excuse me...are you going to the Airport?" When we said yes, she replied, "you are on the wrong train...get off at the next stop and I will show you the correct platform to wait." She certainly didn't have to volunteer this information and ex-Marine and I have experienced the kindness of the French people over and over again. This was not an isolated incident.
- If you have purchased a round-trip train ticket or pass, it will be good on the RER back to Charles De Gaulle Airport. Go to a ticket window, show your ticket or pass, and they were give you individual RER/Metro tickets that will get you to the airport for no additional charge.
- Medieval History is much more interesting experiencing it rather than reading about it.
- Quite a few of our hotels were Logis de France, 3,000 hotels spread throughout France and classified by ***'s, themes, local specialities and high quality service. Book, or explore, the many hotels through the Logis de France link.
- May through October are the recommended times to do the French portion of Way of St. James. You still have time left in 2007 to visit and share in the experience. If you don't want to walk, tour these picturesque, medieval areas by car or train...you won't regret it. Then, write me with your experiences.
Sherpa Expeditions did its usual good job but...and this is a big BUT...they are an English tour operator (if you are an American, it takes almost $2.00 to get 1 English Pound) who handed this trip off to La Pelerine. Therefore, it would have cost us only 34% more to book a trip using the Euro than the 100% more to book a trip using the English Pound. If you use the English Pound as currency, contact Sherpa Expeditions. If you use any other currency and want a company to do all the work for you, hotel reservations, baggage transfer, etc., contact La Pelerine. Almost every European we met on the Way using a tour operator, was using La Pelerine. The only drawback in using La Pelerine is that they can only send English information for certain walks, e.g. The Way of St. James, The Way of Robert Louis Stevenson, Alsace and Perigord. A problem for linguistically-challenged Americans like myself. Pierre, in particular, is wonderful to work with and ex-Marine and I have already booked a trip through the Alsace region with La Pelerine.
However, some people would prefer through-walking and doing it on your own. Contact Trans Bagage, a service that transports baggage from town-to-town along the entire French route, Le Puy en Velay to St. Jean Pied de Port. You can stay in Gites...camp...or through hike...infinite ways and opportunities to accomplish this long distance walk on your budget and timeframe.
Would I do it again? Of course. Would ex-Marine do it again? Definitely. I have our little Scallop Shells stowed away in preparation for the next leg of this trip. Perhaps, 2008? But this time, we'll build in some rest days. Bon Voyage....
Comments
Hi Sheila,
I thought you might be interested in this...
Pilgrimage to Heresy: Don't Believe Everything They Tell You
Pilgrimage to Heresy by Tracy Saunders asks the question: "Who is really buried in Compostela?" Of course, every pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago knows the answer: St. James the Greater, of course, the Patron Saint of Spain.
Yet, there is not a shred of evidence to substantiate this claim! In fact, it would appear that the myth of Santiago is just that: founded on a politically expedient falsehood designed to unite Spain under one holy name: Santiago, y cierre España! The battle cry: "St. James, and close Spain!" St. James the Moorslayer who killed 60,000 in one battle alone.
What an abhorent thing for a saint to do!!!
All well and good, but not only has a country grown up with this story, but a whole economy and mythology has been created around it in Santiago de Compostela...the end of the Pilgrim Road.
Sacrilege!
And there's worse to come...
If St. James' remains are not to be found in Compostela, well, just whose bones are they? Although some exploration was done in the 40's and 50's the results were highly inconclusive. Carbon dating has been suggested since, but has been refused by the Vatican. In fact, the truth is we don´t know who is entombed in that silver sepulchre the object of the Santiago pilgrimage for well over 1000 years.
The most likely candidate is one Priscillian, at one time Bishop of Avila, a wealthy Roman probably of Senatorial rank who in the late 4th century received two guests bringing news from Marcus of Egypt and who thereafter became passionate about his faith, so passionate that he drew thousands to him, men and women alike, including some of the bishops themselves. Others, however, filled with a desire for power in their own sees, turned against Priscillian and launched a "witchhunt" which ultimately had the most dire consequences.
Priscillian was executed for "heresy and witchcraft" in 385 with not only the knowledge but the condonement of the newly formed Roman Church. Thus, Priscillian was to be the first Christian to actually be executed by Christians. Tortured into "confession" he and eight of his followers - including one, a woman, Eucrotia - Priscillian whose gentle message included vegetarianism and celibacy, was decapitated: the first victim of an inquisition, long before the name "Spanish" was attached to it.
Pilgrimage to Heresy, in part, tells his story. But there is more...
This "Time Shift" novel also dovetails the story of Miranda, an untenured professor of philosophy from the University of Toronto who has chosen to make the pilgramage, but (and like many, many modern day pilgrims) doesn´t really know why. Along the way she meets Kieran, a lapsed candidate for the priesthood who is carrying and translating a book, a secret book, and one he should not have! As the two walk together, Kieran tells Miranda that the stories she has been told about Compostela are false. The next day, Kieran disappears....and so does his book!
Who was Priscillian?
Who is the mysterious "Blackbeard"?
And most of all...where is Kieran?
Pilgrimage to Heresy is two love stories, one of which is doomed from the start. It is also a mystery...perhaps.
Who is really buried in Compostela? The Catholic Church would rather you didn´t ask the question let alone learn the answer.
http://pilgrimagetoheresy.com
Tracy: Thanks for sharing with the readers. Very interesting! Sheila
Posted by: Tracy Saunders | May 14, 2008 03:31 PM