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We never did get to say a proper farewell to the trek participants. Most were flying out a few hours after the arrival back to Tashkent and we were moving on to an Independent package visiting Shakhrisabz, Bukhara, Khiva, and Ashgabad in Turkmenistan.
The Kyrgyzstan hostages weren't ransomed for another two months after our exit and the countries settled back down. Kyrgyzstan is still far off the beaten path but I am thrilled that at least Wilderness Travel has scheduled an exploratory trip here and hope that Mountain Travel Sobek will add this Turkestan Range back into their offerings. A newspaper clipping from August 25 read, ".... at least 10 gunmen died in a battle to free seven hostages, including four Japanese geologists, in the Central Asian state of Kyrgyzstan yesterday. The fate of the hostages is unclear. The gunmen are suspected to be Islamic militants from neighbouring Tajikistan...."
Continue reading "The Kyrgyzstan Turkestan Range Trek Epilogue" »
The Kyrgystan KGB had decided. They did not want a group of Americans kidnapped in their country especially since the American Embassy had put the word out that the Americans had to be protected at all costs. Instead, we would begin a marathon journey back to Uzbekistan via Tajikistan. If we happened to get kidnapped in one of those countries, the Kyrgy ass was covered.
Back on the bus from hell with a KGB man...View image...along to sort out new problems. Smooshed together in the back of the decrepit bus with all the duffels in front and propane tanks on top for fuel it was off to the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border for a semi-easy border crossing.
Continue reading "An Epic Kyrgystan to Tajikistan to Uzbekistan Journey" »
Filled with unbounded energy and joy that the trek was over and we had survived, ex-Marine and I hauled butt down from that last camp. Over 3,800' in 2-1/2 hours...we were moving. The buses were there and we prepared for what all thought was going to be a seven-hour drive back into Uzbekistan and the Fergana Valley and then catch a flight back to Tashkent in the early evening.
First down, our horseman with duffels was also the first down and we sat along the road, changed from boots into Tevas...View image... while waiting for the others, only about another 40 minutes behind. Everyone was moving...
Continue reading "A Challenging Return from Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan Began" »
Another long, gradual trek back into the high country where families of herders greeted us. Meadows filled with wildflowers and spectacular ridge top views. After lunch, we crossed the 11,375' Upanym pass and began the descent through a series of watersheds with a stream crossing.
The day ended by another creek where Kyrgyz herder families make their home. There was supposed to be two more hiking days but Rob was greeted by some disquieting news. Four Japanese geologists along with nine Kyrgyz soldiers had been kidnapped in these mountains a few days ago by what was thought to be Tajikistan militants and these Kyrgyz herders were going to head down to safety. A consultation between Rob, herders and camping crew and a decision made not to continue with the trek but go down tomorrow to where the buses should be waiting.
Continue reading "The Upanym Pass and One Last Kyrgyzstan Camp" »
Rob called a rest day in the magnificent Karasu Valley for those who so desired and offered an optional hike into the upper reaches visited by rock climbers around the world. Those who wanted would ascend a steep side gulch that ended at the feet of an obelisk known as Forty-eight Ten, an impressive rock face. Only a few of the "macho men" including the Father and Son combo, took Rob up on this option. They came back to camp late in the day with stories of a mishap that could have had dire consequences. Don got one foot caught between boulders and fell backwards, fortunately not breaking a leg. No one was carrying SAT phones, no such thing as Cells in this wilderness and it would have been days before Don could be MEDIVAC'd. My take on "mandatory evacuation insurance" for extremely remote trips like this is...bah, humbug. Resign yourself to the fact that you will probably die before help comes.
The rest of us sat in the sunshine, read, swapped stories, admired the views, a few did laundry. I washed my hair in buckets of ice cold water and enjoyed not having to hike today.
Continue reading "Into The Karasu and Karavshin Valleys of Kyrgyzstan" »
The food prepared and eaten on a high-altitude hike or trek is like nothing else you may be used to. High-carbohydrates, low-fat diets are usually the rule. Carbohydrates help replace depleted muscle glycogen stores, and require less oxygen for metabolism. A person can expend as much as 6,000 calories a day (almost two pounds a week) depending on the altitude and temperature extremes...a weight-watchers dream come true because the food is rarely tasty.
This trek was no exception. The cooks try their best and it's not easy cooking at altitude but the food was generally awful. (My comments only, feel free to disagree.) A high-altitude trek cook always prepares a hot cereal for breakfast. Cream of Wheat, Oats, Kasha...whatever it was and no matter how I tried to make it palatable with honey, brown sugar, white sugar, syrup...anything ...nothing helps because I just detest hot cereals.
Continue reading "Food On A High Altitude Trek, Kyrgyzstan" »
Orto Chashma, Eastern Karasu Valley, "Koshes" and passes. Who ever heard of these places before? Certainly not any of us. The days would begin very early and the group would usually be on the trail by 7:00 am, leaving the camp crew behind to break camp. It wouldn't be long though before there would be noises behind us, and we'd turn to see the Kyrgyz crew with horses coming up, quickly passing us, and continue on to the eventual lunch spot. ...View image...
The Orto-Chashma Vallley was beautiful walking along the rushing river and even had to ferry across in one spot with some, riding horses and other wading across (me). There were meadows the entire length along with occasional herder encampments. A "kosh" is a mountain camp for shepherds and usually consists of extended family. It was always a little surreal to be trekking through gorgeous, isolated valleys and suddenly see a few hardy Kyrgyz nomads.
Continue reading "More Valleys of the Turkestan Range, Kyrgyzstan" »
The layover day in the Aksu Valley was great and we all took an optional acclimatization hike to the back of the valley up to 12,000'. This, I did not like because it was 1-1/2 hours up through stones and scree (loose rock debris) on a ridge, followed by 1-1/2 hours down on the same terrain. Hikers without fear can run and slide down the scree without any problems. I happen to dislike scree intensely but Rob suggested I wear gloves in case of a butt plant to protect tearing up my hands. Great suggestion and by taking little snail paces, made it up and down intact. Back to camp at sunset for a well-deserved dinner.
The next day, we left the Aksu valley and crosssed the 14,264' Aktubek Pass into the unspoiled and remote valley of Orto-Chashma. A very long, strenous day with more views of Iksender (16,896'), Alexander Blok (17,288'), Petrograd (17,037') and the hanging glaciers of Aksu peak.
Continue reading "From The Aksu Valley and Over The Aktubek Pass into Orto-Chashma, Kyrgyzstan" »
Daylight brought happy spirits to one and all. The sun was shining so we could actually see what was strewn everywhere inside our tents last night while undressing in the dark. TIP: It never hurts to carry your flashlight/torch in a backpack instead of duffel. Never know when it will come in handy. Breakfast, tore down the tents and set out along the Aksu River heading for a new campsite.
At an altitude of 5,850' last night, we'd gain over 3,000' in elevator to 9,948' and then spend two nights at this altitude for acclimatization. ex-Marine and I walked slowly accompanied by Jacque who imparted valuable wisdom about hiking at high altitude. If you've watch documentaries and movies on Everest and other seriously high mountain expeditions, and wondered, "Why are these climbers moving so slowly?"...this is the answer. The slower you move, the better you'll feel at the end of the day. You want to be a tortoise, not a hare, and Jacques taught us the "mountain rest step" where the weight is on the back foot on every step and how to exhale with force.
Continue reading "The Kyrgyzstan Trek Began Into The Aksu Valley" »
To describe the entire day as long, would be a gross understatement. Endless, forever, continuous, never ending would be better. The day started at 3:00 am for the five-hour drive back to the Tashkent Airport from Samarkand. The drive was followed by the short flight to Fergana where Rob was informed by the tour operator that four people had been kidnapped and there was a possibility of war between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. This was not good... What to do! The group sat around for hours until a decision was made to go on with the trek.
Loaded everything on a decent bus for a ride past fields, villages and grazing lands en route to the Turkestan Range. Then a change to another bus for the ride into the high country of Kyrgyzstan and off the paved roads onto dirt roads that took us past orchards and the foothill villages of Katran and Uzgurush.
Continue reading "From Samarkand, Uzbekistan to the Fergana Valley, Kyrgyzstan" »
There was only one day to spend in Samarkand which definitely was not enough. Alexander the Great, Ghengis Khan and Timur (I'll refer to him as Tamerlane from now on) all conquered and ruled this ancient empire with Samarkand as its jewel. This 2,750 year old city had a prominent position on the Silk Road between China and the West and was also a Islamic center. Interesting facts: Samarkand is the same age as Rome, Athens and Babylon and was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
Breakfast and off for some "power touring" visiting the dramatic Registan Square first considered to be the most magnificent landmark in Samarkand. The Registan was the ancient center of the city, and the Square is lined on three sides by gorgeous, turquoise tiled Madrassahs (Arabic for Islamic schools), and wide open spaces. The three Madrassahs are: Ulugbek Madrassah (15th Century), Sher-Dor Madrassah and Tilla-Kari Madrassah (gold covered) (both 17th Century). All of the interiors and exteriors are decorated with glazed bricks, mosaics and carved marble.
Continue reading "One Fast Day in Samarkand, Uzbekistan" »
A very late arrival (close to midnight), easy customs and transfer to the Hotel Shodlik Palace, a clean, western-style, four star hotel in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. Dropped into bed immediately. Early the next morning, we met our tour leader and group. Rob was the American tour leader, an experienced outdoor guide in Russia and Central Asia. He also mountaineers, rock climbs, advanced whitewater kayaking, a triathlete, served as a U.S. Depatment of State interpreter in Leningrad and Moscow...what more could you ask for in a guide.. Oh yes, he was funny and personable.
There were 14 of us from all over the U.S. California, Texas, Oklahoma City, Virginia, Washington, DC, Massachusetts, New York and Chicago. Ten men and four women, all with a different reason for coming to the 'Stans and attempting this difficult trek. The women's stories were the most unusual. Young Angie was overweight and unfit...but her Dad thought this would be an "interesting" trip for her. Margaret had a boyfriend during her younger days in Afghanistan and, positive that he was now dead, was seeking "closure" by traveling as close to the Afghan border as possible. Interesting...
Continue reading "The 'Stan Trip Began in Tashkent, Uzbekistan" »
Air? This was easy then because Lufthansa flew to both Tashkent and Ashghabad via Frankfurt. Tashkent was no longer part of their route last time I looked and suggest using one of the search sites to find a good fare and schedule today. Hot Wire, Orbitz, Cheap Flights on Kayak are a few to surf.
Hotels? We booked a post-trek tour to visit other Silk Road cities. Read about Shakrisabz, Bukhara, Khiva and Ashghabad during our 'Stan add-on.
Visas? Needed three Visas. Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. The logistics were a nightmare with letters of invitation needed and worries about how to get the passports back and forth between the three embassies. In the end, the easiest solution was to pay a whopping fee to let Zierer Visa Service do it. If you look at the Embassy of Uzbekistan, Embassy of Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan websites with requirements of "official letters of invitation," you'll understand why;
Continue reading "Planning The Kyrgyzstan Trek and 'Stans" »
Mountain Travel Sobek offered a trek in 1999 called "Lost Valleys of The Turkestan Range." Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakstan, Pakistan and Afghanistan...so many "Stans."
This tour began and ended in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, visited Samarkand and the trek took place entirely within Kyrgyzstan, once part of the former Soviet Union. Kyrgyzstan has been called the "Nepal of Central Asia" but only a handful of people have ever visited, let alone trekked through Kyrgyzstan. This would be a unique trek on a circuit through some remote and spectacular valleys in the Turkestan range. The valleys have names like Aksu, Karasu, Orto-Chashma and Karavshin, none of which I'd ever heard of.
Continue reading "Off The Beaten Path Into Kyrgyzstan" »
The 'Stans is not that easy to do it on your own. Lonely Planet's Central Asia Guide will help or surf the many different websites. You really need fluent Russian and infinite patience along with the time to arrange everything. Fortunately, there are pages of tour operators who run 'Stan trips, Silk Road Trips, etc. and take most of the hassle/glitch factor on their shoulders. Asia Travel who ran our independent trip is still operating.
Prefer group travel? Check out Adventure Center (on the side bar), Intrepid Travel (bookable through Adventure Center), iExplore, GAP Adventures , Wilderness Travel, Geographic Expeditions, and MIR (a big presence in Russia, etc.) to name a few. I only recommend tour operators that we've used or have faith in.
You don't visit these countries for the food or hotels. It's your chance to experience important stops on the Silk Road that have been around for 2,000-5,000 years and monuments that are unique to this area.
Continue reading "Fast and Easy Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan Information" »
Since we couldn't buy anything in the Tolkuchka Bazaar, the next best thing was a visit to the incredible Carpet Museum. Hotel Nissa (with our longed for, wonderful pizza) was located close to the Museum and we spent hours there admiring and lusting over the large collection of 500 wool, handmade carpets woven by various Turkmen tribes. You can also watch the process of carpet weaving in the Museum workshop and they also sell carpets.
Like Syria with posters of Hafez al-Assad everywhere, the same was true of Ashghabad in 1999. Saparmurat Niyazov, President of Turkmenistan (died in 2006) liked to think of himself as "Turkmenbashi" ("Head of all Turkmen") and his pictures adorned every building in downtown Ashghabad. Not bad for a person who had a reputation as one of the world's most totalitarian and repressive dictators. Or, that is what happens when you are one of the world's most totalitarian and repressive dictators.
Continue reading "The Ruins of Nisa, Turkmenistan and Farewell to the 'Stans" »
I don't think anyone visits Ashghabad/Ashgabad/Ashgabat (spell it however you'd like) for monuments or beautiful sights. The number one reason is to attend the Sunday Tolkuchka Bazaar with thousands of sellers and people. We had a very sweet young woman to guide us and we were her first travelers. She spoke excellent English and tried very hard, but neither she nor Ayan Travel had answers to very basic questions, e.g. What is the departure tax leaving Turkmenistan... What is the procedure getting out of the country...
These were all minor quibbles and glitches because the trip ran very smoothly considering the countries we were traveling through. The 'Stans are not the most "user-friendly" places to visit with the Soviet-style bureaucracy still firmly entrenched.
Continue reading "What Do You See in Ashghabad, Turkmenistan? Carpets" »
Our hotel in Khiva was the budget Hotel Arkanchi, probably the best available then. It was ideally situated in the old town and we walked back and forth whenever possible to take in the sights. It had location...location...location...the food wasn't bad although by now we would have killed for a pizza or McDonald's...and the people were helpful and friendly.
Farewell to Olig who said that Ayan Travel would "probably" pick us up between 12-1:00 pm for the transfer to the Tashauz airport. Twelve o'clock came and went. One o'clock came and went and now we were really nervous. At 2:00 pm, the hotel helped us place a call to the number given us and forget it. Don't know if things have improved but it was impossible to place a telephone call. The guide finally appeared around 2:30 pm. The flight had been changed to an evening one and that's why he was late coming to get us.
Continue reading "Out Of Uzbekistan and Into Turkmenistan" »
The ride from Bukhara across the Kyzyl-Kum Desert to Khiva was around 500 km/310 miles with the ubiquitous police stops to see passports, driver's license checks, yadda...yadda. Khiva is situated in the southern part of the Khorezm Oasis and is one of the most ancient cities in Central Asia, more than 1,000 years old. After Khiva, we'd say goodbye to Olig who would go on to another assignment (he worked for Asian Travel) and hand us over to Ayan Travel for the Turkmenistan portion of this trip.
Khiva was once a place filled with slave caravans and terrible journeys across the brutal desert. Khiva is now a very clean, quiet city (pop: 40,000) and since 1990, the Ichan-kala (old town) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with more than 50 historic monuments and 250 old houses (most date from the 18th-19th centuries).
Continue reading "The Oasis City of Khiva, Uzbekistan" »
September 1, 1991, Uzbekistan gained its independence from Russia after living under years of Russian domination. Russia conquered Uzbekistan in the late 19th century and a socialist republic set up in 1924. During the Soviet era, the Russians depleted water supplies which left the land poisoned and rivers half dry. The Uzbeks now rely primarily on its oil and gas fields. Over 60% are in the Bukhara-Kiva region, which accounts for about 70% of Uzbekistan's oil production.
Today happened to be September 1, 1999 and big celebrations with singing, dancing and speeches were going to take place tonight directly in front of our Hotel with any tourists staying in Bukhara invited to attend as guests. Incidentally, September 1st is our Anniversary! A big stage was erected, huge speakers surrounding the entire square, and seats lined up in neat rows. The festivities would begin at 7:30 pm and probably run until 9:30 pm.
Continue reading "Uzbekistan's Independence Day" »
Local tradition says that Bukhara has the oldest Jewish community in Uzbekistan, established more than 2,000 years ago after the destruction of the Temple and the subsequent exile. There are other accounts that Jews fled Persian persecution over 1,500 years ago and still another, that Jews were merchants on the Silk Road.
With this kind of history, the Uzbek Jews spoke Bukhori, a Persian language dialect, another Jewish dialect of Tajik (still spoken today), English, Hebrew, Uzbek and Russian. Anyway you cut it, the Jews in Uzbekistan have been here for many centuries with the least repressive times under Timur (Tamerlane) and, believe it or not, the Russians
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Continue reading "Bukhara's Main Jewish Synagogue, Uzbekistan" »
Besides a fatal flow of being a compulsive, addictive traveler, I am blessed with the double whammy of being a compulsive, addictive shopper. Whisper to me that a country or city has a suq/souk, bazaar, flea market, weekly market and the adrenaline starts pouring through my body. One of the reasons, I had to visit Ashghabad was Julie had raved about their famous Sunday Market.
You can imagine my joy when our guide led us to the old Taqis, the typical trading domes of the Bukhara bazaars. Three of the original five Taqis from the 16th century remain and have been restored.
- Taqi Sarrafon - The Moneychanger's Bazaar;
- Taqi Telpak Furshon - The Cap-maker's Bazaar where you went to purchase a nice turban, fur hat or skull cap; and
- Taqi Zaragon - The Jeweller's Bazaars
Continue reading "The Taqis, Trading Domes of Bukhara, Uzbekistan" »
Back in the car to Bukhara, with lunch stops along the way. Most food throughout ended up to be some sort of shish-ka-bob, rice pilaf, and melons. The region around Bukhara has been inhabited for at least 5,000 years and Bukhara itself has existed for approximately half of that time. Once, this city was one of the main Iranian civilizations located on the Silk Road.
The ****Bukhara Palace Hotel, located within walking distance of the old city, was huge with 440 rooms. All sorts of things were going on. A giant stage erected in front, speakers, microphones and then we discovered that today was Uzbekistan's Independence Day. A big production and festivities were going to take place tonight and the Mayor invited all tourists to the festivities along with prime seats. New Bukhara guide joined us at the hotel and we set out to do some major sightseeing with only 1-1/2 days to squeeze a few of the 140 architectural monuments.
Continue reading "Fabulous Bukhara, Uzbekistan" »
A very long day's drive from Tashkent to Shakhrisabz even though it's only 90 km/56 miles south of Samarkand. Day was made even longer by what was only the start of constant stops by the local police to check passports, look in the trunk and generally hassle tourists and driver. Poor Olig, our driver as far as Khiva, got extremely frustrated. Olig spoke a little English and took very good care of us.
Difficult to believe but the Hotel Shakhrisabz, 26, Ipak Yuli Street, is still in business. This place was a "pit" but still operating. The people tried very hard but if there are any other choices now, take it. Fortunately, this was only a one-nighter and the Hotel Shakhrisabz was conveniently located next to the statue of Amir Temur and Ak Saray Palace.
Continue reading "The Little Town of Shakhrisabz, Uzbekistan" »
Visas? Now needed three Visas. Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. The logistics were a nightmare with letters of invitation needed and worries about how to get the passports back and forth between the three embassies. In the end, the easiest solution was to pay a whopping surplus to let Zierer Visa Service do it.
Flights? We had already booked round-trip Lufthansa tickets from Frankfurt to Tashkent, Uzbekistan and just arranged to fly back to Frankfurt from Ashghabad, Turkmenistan. Our arrangements also required an internal flight from Tashauz to Ashghabad on Turkmenistan Airlines, cost included in the package.
Continue reading "Plannning The Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan Extensions" »
Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakstan, Pakistan and Afghanistan...so many "Stans." Mountain Travel Sobek had a trek operating in 1999 called "Lost Valleys of the Turkestan Range. The tour began and ended in Tashkent, Uzbekistan and the trek took place entirely within Kyrgyzstan.
Well, if we were going to fly this far, what about Tajikistan, Kazakstan, Turkmenistan, and Afghanistan? Forget Afghanistan. The Taliban was in power. Tajikistan? Violence and another country considered "not safe to visit." Pakistan? Been there...done it... Kazakstan? Kazakstan wasn't experiencing any problems but its geographic situation above Uzbekistan made it difficult to arrange post-trek.
Continue reading "Visit Some Amazing Countries That End in "Stan"" »
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