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We never did get to say a proper farewell to the trek participants. Most were flying out a few hours after the arrival back to Tashkent and we were moving on to an Independent package visiting Shakhrisabz, Bukhara, Khiva, and Ashgabad in Turkmenistan.
The Kyrgyzstan hostages weren't ransomed for another two months after our exit and the countries settled back down. Kyrgyzstan is still far off the beaten path but I am thrilled that at least Wilderness Travel has scheduled an exploratory trip here and hope that Mountain Travel Sobek will add this Turkestan Range back into their offerings. A newspaper clipping from August 25 read, ".... at least 10 gunmen died in a battle to free seven hostages, including four Japanese geologists, in the Central Asian state of Kyrgyzstan yesterday. The fate of the hostages is unclear. The gunmen are suspected to be Islamic militants from neighbouring Tajikistan...."
Continue reading "The Kyrgyzstan Turkestan Range Trek Epilogue" »
The Kyrgystan KGB had decided. They did not want a group of Americans kidnapped in their country especially since the American Embassy had put the word out that the Americans had to be protected at all costs. Instead, we would begin a marathon journey back to Uzbekistan via Tajikistan. If we happened to get kidnapped in one of those countries, the Kyrgy ass was covered.
Back on the bus from hell with a KGB man...View image...along to sort out new problems. Smooshed together in the back of the decrepit bus with all the duffels in front and propane tanks on top for fuel it was off to the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border for a semi-easy border crossing.
Continue reading "An Epic Kyrgystan to Tajikistan to Uzbekistan Journey" »
Filled with unbounded energy and joy that the trek was over and we had survived, ex-Marine and I hauled butt down from that last camp. Over 3,800' in 2-1/2 hours...we were moving. The buses were there and we prepared for what all thought was going to be a seven-hour drive back into Uzbekistan and the Fergana Valley and then catch a flight back to Tashkent in the early evening.
First down, our horseman with duffels was also the first down and we sat along the road, changed from boots into Tevas...View image... while waiting for the others, only about another 40 minutes behind. Everyone was moving...
Continue reading "A Challenging Return from Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan Began" »
Another long, gradual trek back into the high country where families of herders greeted us. Meadows filled with wildflowers and spectacular ridge top views. After lunch, we crossed the 11,375' Upanym pass and began the descent through a series of watersheds with a stream crossing.
The day ended by another creek where Kyrgyz herder families make their home. There was supposed to be two more hiking days but Rob was greeted by some disquieting news. Four Japanese geologists along with nine Kyrgyz soldiers had been kidnapped in these mountains a few days ago by what was thought to be Tajikistan militants and these Kyrgyz herders were going to head down to safety. A consultation between Rob, herders and camping crew and a decision made not to continue with the trek but go down tomorrow to where the buses should be waiting.
Continue reading "The Upanym Pass and One Last Kyrgyzstan Camp" »
Rob called a rest day in the magnificent Karasu Valley for those who so desired and offered an optional hike into the upper reaches visited by rock climbers around the world. Those who wanted would ascend a steep side gulch that ended at the feet of an obelisk known as Forty-eight Ten, an impressive rock face. Only a few of the "macho men" including the Father and Son combo, took Rob up on this option. They came back to camp late in the day with stories of a mishap that could have had dire consequences. Don got one foot caught between boulders and fell backwards, fortunately not breaking a leg. No one was carrying SAT phones, no such thing as Cells in this wilderness and it would have been days before Don could be MEDIVAC'd. My take on "mandatory evacuation insurance" for extremely remote trips like this is...bah, humbug. Resign yourself to the fact that you will probably die before help comes.
The rest of us sat in the sunshine, read, swapped stories, admired the views, a few did laundry. I washed my hair in buckets of ice cold water and enjoyed not having to hike today.
Continue reading "Into The Karasu and Karavshin Valleys of Kyrgyzstan" »
The food prepared and eaten on a high-altitude hike or trek is like nothing else you may be used to. High-carbohydrates, low-fat diets are usually the rule. Carbohydrates help replace depleted muscle glycogen stores, and require less oxygen for metabolism. A person can expend as much as 6,000 calories a day (almost two pounds a week) depending on the altitude and temperature extremes...a weight-watchers dream come true because the food is rarely tasty.
This trek was no exception. The cooks try their best and it's not easy cooking at altitude but the food was generally awful. (My comments only, feel free to disagree.) A high-altitude trek cook always prepares a hot cereal for breakfast. Cream of Wheat, Oats, Kasha...whatever it was and no matter how I tried to make it palatable with honey, brown sugar, white sugar, syrup...anything ...nothing helps because I just detest hot cereals.
Continue reading "Food On A High Altitude Trek" »
Orto Chashma, Eastern Karasu Valley, "Koshes" and passes. Who ever heard of these places before? Certainly not any of us. The days would begin very early and the group would usually be on the trail by 7:00 am, leaving the camp crew behind to break camp. It wouldn't be long though before there would be noises behind us, and we'd turn to see the Kyrgyz crew with horses coming up, quickly passing us, and continue on to the eventual lunch spot. ...View image...
The Orto-Chashma Vallley was beautiful walking along the rushing river and even had to ferry across in one spot with some, riding horses and other wading across (me). There were meadows the entire length along with occasional herder encampments. A "kosh" is a mountain camp for shepherds and usually consists of extended family. It was always a little surreal to be trekking through gorgeous, isolated valleys and suddenly see a few hardy Kyrgyz nomads.
Continue reading "More Valleys of the Turkestan Range" »
The layover day in the Aksu Valley was great and we all took an optional acclimatization hike to the back of the valley up to 12,000'. This, I did not like because it was 1-1/2 hours up through stones and scree (loose rock debris) on a ridge, followed by 1-1/2 hours down on the same terrain. Hikers without fear can run and slide down the scree without any problems. I happen to dislike scree intensely but Rob suggested I wear gloves in case of a butt plant to protect tearing up my hands. Great suggestion and by taking little snail paces, made it up and down intact. Back to camp at sunset for a well-deserved dinner.
The next day, we left the Aksu valley and crosssed the 14,264' Aktubek Pass into the unspoiled and remote valley of Orto-Chashma. A very long, strenous day with more views of Iksender (16,896'), Alexander Blok (17,288'), Petrograd (17,037') and the hanging glaciers of Aksu peak.
Continue reading "From The Aksu Valley and Over The Aktubek Pass into Orto-Chashma" »
Daylight brought happy spirits to one and all. The sun was shining so we could actually see what was strewn everywhere inside our tents last night while undressing in the dark. TIP: It never hurts to carry your flashlight/torch in a backpack instead of duffel. Never know when it will come in handy. Breakfast, tore down the tents and set out along the Aksu River heading for a new campsite.
At an altitude of 5,850' last night, we'd gain over 3,000' in elevator to 9,948' and then spend two nights at this altitude for acclimatization. ex-Marine and I walked slowly accompanied by Jacque who imparted valuable wisdom about hiking at high altitude. If you've watch documentaries and movies on Everest and other seriously high mountain expeditions, and wondered, "Why are these climbers moving so slowly?"...this is the answer. The slower you move, the better you'll feel at the end of the day. You want to be a tortoise, not a hare, and Jacques taught us the "mountain rest step" where the weight is on the back foot on every step and how to exhale with force.
Continue reading "The Kyrgyzstan Trek Began Into The Aksu Valley" »
To describe the entire day as long, would be a gross understatement. Endless, forever, continuous, never ending would be better. The day started at 3:00 am for the five-hour drive back to the Tashkent Airport from Samarkand. The drive was followed by the short flight to Fergana where Rob was informed by the tour operator that four people had been kidnapped and there was a possibility of war between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. This was not good... What to do! The group sat around for hours until a decision was made to go on with the trek.
Loaded everything on a decent bus for a ride past fields, villages and grazing lands en route to the Turkestan Range. Then a change to another bus for the ride into the high country of Kyrgyzstan and off the paved roads onto dirt roads that took us past orchards and the foothill villages of Katran and Uzgurush.
Continue reading "From Samarkand to the Fergana Valley" »
Air? This was easy then because Lufthansa flew to both Tashkent and Ashghabad via Frankfurt. Tashkent was no longer part of their route last time I looked and suggest using one of the search sites to find a good fare and schedule today. Hot Wire, Orbitz, Cheap Flights on Kayak are a few to surf.
Hotels? We booked a post-trek tour to visit other Silk Road cities. Read about Shakrisabz, Bukhara, Khiva and Ashghabad during our 'Stan add-on.
Visas? Needed three Visas. Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. The logistics were a nightmare with letters of invitation needed and worries about how to get the passports back and forth between the three embassies. In the end, the easiest solution was to pay a whopping fee to let Zierer Visa Service do it. If you look at the Embassy of Uzbekistan, Embassy of Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan websites with requirements of "official letters of invitation," you'll understand why;
Continue reading "Planning The Kyrgyzstan Trek and 'Stans" »
Mountain Travel Sobek offered a trek in 1999 called "Lost Valleys of The Turkestan Range." Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakstan, Pakistan and Afghanistan...so many "Stans."
This tour began and ended in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, visited Samarkand and the trek took place entirely within Kyrgyzstan, once part of the former Soviet Union. Kyrgyzstan has been called the "Nepal of Central Asia" but only a handful of people have ever visited, let alone trekked through Kyrgyzstan. This would be a unique trek on a circuit through some remote and spectacular valleys in the Turkestan range. The valleys have names like Aksu, Karasu, Orto-Chashma and Karavshin, none of which I'd ever heard of.
Continue reading "Off The Beaten Path Into Kyrgyzstan" »
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