The Milford Track - 33 Miles Later and Queenstown
This was it. Some final glimpses of Sutherland Falls on the descent down Gentle Annie (a rocky hill). Through a flat area into the green rainforest and out into the open straight section known as the Race Course. (Early packhorses used to try and pass each other on this stretch)
Back in the bush to the Boatshed, built in 1928 to house boats used to move supplied from Lake Ada and a short rest. More swinging bridges, past Mackay Falls, another open area and we were at the 27 mile mark. From here on, the rest of the walk would be in the rainforest. I really enjoyed the simple but descriptive names given by the early pioneers to the sights - Danger Mountain, Steep Hill, Valley of the Perpendicular, the Wetland Walk - you knew exactly what to expect.
It wasn't until Telegraph Point that views opened up towards Milford Sound with Lake Ada in the front. The group stopped for lunch today in front of Giant's Gate Falls on this gorgeous day and 30 miles into the Track. It was extremely difficult to believe that not only was the walk only three miles from being done, but there hadn't been one drop of rain through our entire trip. This could not possibly be the same Track we took in 1984. If it hadn't been for the newspaper article and Group #34 sign-in list relating that nightmare of a trip, it might have just been a bad dream. Milford Track personnel kept telling everyone, pray for rain to see the incredible waterfalls. Not us....we saw enough waterfalls and rain to last a lifetime in 1984.
On and on to good old Sandfly Point with a big new, screened shelter keeping the sandflies (nasty critters) out and a great place to wait for the ferry crossing on Mitre Sound. Some Aussies were nice enough to loan BUSHMAN insect repellent to those of us who were relying on repellents manufactured in countries where there are DEET issues. This is the most effective insect repellent we've ever tried...guaranteed to be 100% effective on sandflies...and it was! If you can find it, buy it, DEET or no DEET. (Of course, my cancer chances have nowprobably been increased ....)
33 Miles -- a long distance and great accomplishment for everyone in Group #140. There were no drop-outs, no injuries (other than blisters, aches and pains) and ex-Marine and I were euphoric. Nineteen years later, and we still could do it! They sold Finisher's t-shirts at Mitre Peak Lodge...I finished the Milford Track, yadda, yadda...so hideous and expensive that I couldn't bring myself to buy one. Mitre Peak Lodge is the original accommodation of Donald Sutherland who arrived in the area in 1877. The Government bought the property in 1922 and built a hotel six years later. The lodge is used solely as part of the Milford Track Guided Walk and is not available for any other accommodation. A beautiful hotel, and a cruise (the next day) on Milford Sound is also included in your Track package. Whether you are a day visiter (via helicopter or motor vehicle) or tramper, everyone takes a scenic cruise with one of the several boat operators. The ferry sizes ranged from humungous to small and each one was packed with tourists. Milford Sound is in the heart of Fiordland National Park, a World Heritage area and the focal point is Mitre Peak that rises over one mile vertically from the water line. The waters are clear and still and some of the other attractions were Stirling Falls, southern fur seals on the rocks, Bottlenose and Dusky Dolphins (didn't see any). The cruises ranged from 1-1/2 hours to 2-3/4 hours long. I personally thought the shorter trip gave more than enough time before it becomes boring. However, Real Journeys operated three Milford Sound overnight cruises that piqued my interest. You can explore by tenders, view wildlife and sea kayak.
After the ride, the coach loaded everyone up for the ride back to Te Anau and Queenstown with group photos and participant lists in hand. This second experience on the Milford Track was a completely different experience thanks to the weather. It was easier with all the new sections of boardwalk, the views were spectacular, food was still excellent and the addition of menu choices for dinner was a great touch, as well as the new rooms and dorms...the only thing missing was the camaraderie formed between everyone in Group #34 because of the torrential rains and the literal struggle to survive. A great trek and anyone is good shape can do it.
There are three huts on the track for independent walkers - Clinton, Mintaro and Dumpling. During the peak season, huts are supplied with gas cookers, tables, benches, cold running water, lighting and heating in the main kitchen/dining hut. Bunkrooms have communal sleeping arrangements with mattresses provided. Each hut also has ablution blocks with flush toilets and wash basins (cold water only). There are no showers in the huts and if you really want to experience Milford that way, it's very inexpensive.
I would love to go back to New Zealand and experience the Routeburn and, perhaps, one other trek besides that one and try a tandem hand glide. My friend, Margie, assured me that the Queenstown hang gliding experience is one I'd love. Instead of running off a cliff to become airborne, you run in tandem on a grassy slope and are gently lifted up. Margie is in her 60's and if SHE can do it... I can do it.
So many different experiences and Mount Cook National Park still on the horizon...
