It is only a short 75-minute flight from Delhi to Srinagar. Now: Three very nice airlines, Spicejet, Kingfisher Air and Jet Airways fly here. Then: We had to fly junky Indian Airlines with a terrible safety record. Picked up at the airport and transfered to the shore of Dal Lake where our dedicated Manora Houseboat shikara and boatman...View image...stood waiting to pole us out to the boat. The shikaras have canopies, curtains and thick cushions that make you want to just lay back and regally order masses of servants around with a wave of the hand. The boatman poled us through the still waters past a busy floating bazaar, traffic jams of other shikaras, and lines of houseboats with names like "California," "New York," "Chicago," and "Persian Gulf." Hysterically funny...

The houseboats are permanently moored. Some, right at Srinagar's doorstep and others, 4-6 miles out in Dal Lake. They are decorated in what I'd call British Raj style with massive furniture and oriental rugs, have a dining room, living room, lounging area on the front deck and two to five bedrooms with modern bathrooms depending on the houseboat size. There is also a floating cookhouse in back. They do range in price and luxury. The majority of western tourists stay in the ones classified as Deluxe and Class A while a Class B boat will have less amenities and bedrooms.