The Lake District - Grasmere, Grisedale Pass and Patterdale
The van transferred us back to yesterday's stopping point and off we went for some "fell walking." Up rocky paths past Eagle Crag and later on, Lining Crag. From here, the official route took us down a path into Far Easedale along a "beck" (What the hell is a beck?...a brook or swiftly running stream ...) The Coast to Coast zig-zags its way across England, south, southeast, northeast....
If you've never seen, heard of or know what a "peat bog" is, you'll find out on the Coast to Coast. Actually, I really started enjoying the bogs. One after another, we'd fall or slide into one...get a boot stuck...and one day, ex-Marine wore new beige shorts and promptly took a butt plant in the bog. Two big muddy butt circles on his pants that never did come clean. Hilarious laughter for the rest of the day looking at him from the rear with those two big, black circles.

Many days we'd have to plop ourselves down (usually in the middle of nowhere) on a rock or muddy ground to eat picnic lunches. Not exactly gracious dining and does anyone look happy in these photos? Lunch snarfed down today, there was a very long uphill stretch followed by more rocky and boggy terrain.

Thank goodness for a guide. Between the crags, bogs, valleys, streams and scree, it was sometimes difficult to find the trail, and even Chris had us backtracking occasionally.
Quite a bit of National Park Lands are privately owned and farmed. Walkers usually have the right to cross these fields with a lot of locking and unlocking the gates enclosing the pastures, up and over stiles. One day we came to a pasture with a big sign..."Bull In Field." (If that doesn't give you pause for thought and make your heart beat faster, I don't know what does.) The group unlocked the gate and sticking to each other like glue, hauled bodies across that pasture as fast as legs could go, nervously looking in all directions, just waiting for a that charging bull. No sign of a bull and someone told us later that sometimes farmers deliberately put a "Bull in Field" sign up to discourage walkers. Whatever, cold sweat was dripping off my body...


In the afternoon, we descended on a steep track into Grasmere with time to visit Dove Cottage, home of William and Dorothy Wordsworth. Wordsworth called his home in Grasmere .."the loveliest spot that man hath ever found." (It was very pretty.) The Lake District provided inspiration for both Wordsworth and Coleridge and is a favorite destination for visitors. Almost any tourist who heads out into the English countryside visits the Lake District, definitely Jane Austen scenery.
There was actually a little time to shop before transferring back to Keswick for tea-time. The only two purchases made during the Coast to Coast were: little stuffed lamb, Grasmere (he has great personality), who sits on a kitchen shelf to this day, reminding me of all the little lambs along the way; and a clear plastic map case worn around the neck for hikers and trekkers. Beats a Glad bag to keep maps dry any time. The hiking was usually finished in time for a proper English tea with scones. Nothing like a proper scone with lots of thick cream...mmm...

A good night's sleep and up for an 8 miler on one of the Lake District's classic walks. A "jaunt" over Grisedale Pass to Patterdale. This grassy track was once a pony track for Victorian ladies and gentlemen. Zig-zagged up and over into a green valley lined with ancient stone walls.
It was here that you had to decide which of the two routes to take. One went up Helvellyn, the third highest peak in the Lake District, and the other through Grisedale Tarn, a mountain bowl. The Helvellyn route also encompassed Striding Edge, a ridge walk notorious for its narrow trail and steep drop offs on both sides. Chris and guidebooks also warn that you need a "head for heights." Wainwright called it ..."an exhilerating traverse..." That decided most of us. (I don't do "exhilerating" with drop offs). Through the valley of Grisedale between the high mountains and out through the valley...




...Then over a bridge and on the road into the charming village of Patterdale before transferring back to Keswick for one last night. Patterdale is another popular tourist village where St. Patrick is said to have preached and baptized converts.
On a van supported trip, there was always the option to ride with the van on any given day if you weren't up to it. Toni developed blisters the size of Idaho one day and did ride along. BUT....you had to commit before setting out each morning. Once on the trail, there was no bailing out on the route... Stuck to the finish of the day...
One last evening in Keswick. Tomorrow, we'll leave the Lake District.





