The Hamer Man Jumps The Bulls
It's considered good luck to hold the ceremony across the river. Another 10-15 minute walk through the hot sands to a fairly open area. Some Hamer men concocted a small arbor and the prospective groom took off his goatskin and entered it naked. Blessings said over him for the next half hour while the bulls were herded into the clearing where they placidly stood around.
The ceremony was about to begin and men literally arm-wrestled the bulls into a compact line by grabbing their jaws, hanging on to their tails while we tourists furiously clicked away through the clouds of sand. ...View image... Every now and then, one of the bulls would make a mad dash for freedom while tourists jumped out of the way. Brutally hot standing and sitting around in the sun with no shade.
More whipping, more liquor until, bulls in a tight line, the groom-to-be took his first pass over the bull's backs. A running jump, up and over and he almost made it to the end without falling. Hamer men stood on either side of the bulls to keep them in a tight pack and make sure he didn't get hurt or fall on the bull's horns. He caught his breath and ran back on a second pass.
This time he fell and his father started whipping him for falling! The Hamers removed some of the bulls and the line got shorter. A third pass on the bull's backs and he was done. This poor guy could finally go home, eat, celebrate and get married.
The Hamer gossip according to Henock - the groom-to-be had been ill for a while and wasn't very strong and Henock had seen much better. But now, we'd seen one of the tribal highlights in Ethiopia and could continue on to Turmi...
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