We raced down the narrow, cobblestone street (one main street) to the sea, across the beach and stuck our boots in the North Sea. Done! Exhausted! Congrats all around with time to take a short walk through this very small fishing village. Robin Hood Bay was the busiest smuggling community on the Yorkshire coast during the 18th century. The natural isolation, protected by marshy moorland on three sides, made this spot a natural. No doubt, smuggling paid a lot better than fishing. Fishing pots and dinghy's on the beach made me think they went back to fishing.

This was a tough but extremely enjoyable hike across England. The van transfered us to York for the last overnight and a wonderful celebratory dinner. A full day to explore York at our leisure tomorrow. Stolled around the Roman and 13th century walls built to protect medieval York and the gates where heads of enemies were once displayed. There was The York Minster, a huge towering Gothic cathedral, the Shambles (York's best and most famous street) with its timber-framed Tudor houses hanging over.. and the surreal feeling that perhaps the Coast to Coast never took place...and we only imagined it.

My thoughts and Suggestions For The Coast to Coast:

You may be thinking, this doesn't sound like fun. She had miserable weather, walked and fell into bogs and developed tendonitis. Why the hell should I do this? Because...

- As bad as the weather was, you don't have to sleep in tents. Every B&B or hotel had hot baths, rooms to dry our boots, etc. Nothing seems so bad after a hot bath, good food, a comfortable bed and dry clothes in the morning. The misery is always forgotten by morning.

- We met many, many freedom walkers on the route. Some on the Cleveland Way which merged into the Coast to Coast for a stretch. Taking part in a long distance walk develops a sense of community (or misery). Everyone was out there in good spirits, challenging themselves, exercising, seeing and experiencing new sights. Each step was a step closer to a major accomplishment that anyone in good health can do with some determination.

- We were extremely unlucky weather-wise. You may not be. Others have walked in sunshine for the entire distance. Just be prepared. When I look through all these photographs, I'm struck again by the fact there was probably only one sunny day. That's life...

- Note to co-habitating, dating or married couples that have never experienced the outdoors together: Topo had never hiked before and Michael (the dork) never waited for her to catch up to him on the trails. Macho-man would race ahead, leave her to slide alone down the bogs and was self-engrossed in his own hike. Many the day, Topo was in tears over a difficult patch of terrain. And, many the day, we'd hear some very loud arguments. Of course, they probably got married, will read this and I'll get nasty letters reaming me out for calling her husband a dork. Just think twice about it.

Michael and Topo were polar opposites from the way Lyn and Dean (on our recent Annapurna Sanctuary Trek) handled their first trekking experience together. Lyn had also never trekked before and Annapurna was a tough one. Dean stayed at the back of the pack with Lyn for two weeks, offering support and assistance. I know...because ex-Marine and I were also at the back of the pack. Steve is always with me on a difficult section or when I'm scared. On the easy parts, we both plod along at different paces, talking to fellow walkers. Everyone should have a hiking/trekking buddy...just in case you get lost (like we did that one day)...or are injured...

- We adored the little B&B's we stayed in with their lovely host/hostesses. Each one was unique and colorful.

- A great idea for hikers, trekkers. Buy a clear, plastic map case to hang around your neck or arm. Bought one in Grasmere and am still using it. Saw them online and it keeps your topographical maps dry. Great idea.

- As long as you bring the proper rain gear with, you'll survive beautifully. You won't melt out there...

- If you happen to like Tolkein as much as I, you'll feel as if you are in the middle of the Ring Trilogy with the names...Dales...Fell...North Downs...Dyke...Beck...Striding Ridge ("Strider")...the High Seat... This walk traversed the landscape and imagery of every movie or piece of English literature, I'd ever read. It really was a feast for the eyes even in the rain.

Aren't these all good enough reasons to give the Coast to Coast or any other walk in England a try? I think so...and, happy walking...

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