The Famous and Exciting Bac Ha Sunday Market, Vietnam
We missed Bac Ha Market in 2001 because of abominable weather. So much rain and mud, the roads were impossible (and impassable) and ex-Marine and I were really looking forward to finally getting here. The Bac Ha Market has a reputation for being one of the most colorful markets in the world...View image... The most dominant ethnic minority group in the Bac Ha area is the Flower Hmong. All the minority tribes still wear their distinctive clothing and come into town to trade on this one day each week.
Rain, fog and mist today. Packed up and ready to go by 7:30 am for this "day that never ends" beginning with another 3-1/2 to 4 hour ride. First, through Lao Cai where Mr. Hi finally had a new tire put on to replace the one with the separated tread after stopping at two different garages to find one that fit. ...View image... Nobody wanted to get stuck on the mountain or go careening off. One of the more interesting road signs showed a car falling off the cliff. An omen? Hope not! ...View image...
Mr. Hi got us there without incident, dropped us off in front of the Bac Ha Market...View image, and John gave instructions to return in one hour. Into the market as quickly as possible (it stops around noon) and set about taking photos until I think "carpal shutter finger" set in. Where to look first...View image? Who to photograph? Which direction to walk in the market? What to look at? A person could also get whiplash turning your head from side to side like a little metronome.
How do I go about selecting which of the 56 photos taken at the Bac Ha Market? And, that's after culling the "bad ones." Colorful isn't the best description. Brilliant, gay, intense, vibrant, full of life, distinctive and brilliant may be better. Bandanas in solid colors and plaids with green, shocking pink, blues and purple on heads. Traditional Flower Hmong little ponchos worn over long-sleeved black, royal blue and other patterned tops. Topped off with the rest of the traditional Hmong outfits, the women looked like gay birds-of-paradise shining in the grey, dull day.
Even though many tourists were present, hundreds upon hundreds of Flower Hmong and other minorities were in the majority. Many had walked from their mountain villages for several days to reach Bac Ha. The people ignored the tourists, with the exception of souvenir sellers...View image..., and intently went about the reasons for the market. Buying, selling and catching up with friends and relatives from neighboring areas.
There was fresh snake meat, pig's heads, fresh something or another being fried up (resembled corn fritters)...View image, little old ladies siphoning and selling 52 proof homemade corn liquor into smaller containers for purchase, so strong it made eyes water just standing and watching...View image.
The hour flew by and Bac Ha Market started winding down with the buyers and sellers heading to the main square. Carrying whatever they bought in the baskets on their backs...View image, equipment, toting bamboo...View image. The lucky ones loaded up their motorcycles (don't you love the helmet on top of her bandanas?), horses...View image... and local transport while many others started the long walk back to their homes.
The Bac Ha Market was worth seven hours on the road, roundtrip, and seven years of waiting. The only kicker was that John neglected to tell us that there was an animal market behind the main market. Missed it, would have like to seen it, and now you know to look for it.
If you don't visit one of these markets (Bac Ha Market is considered #1) in Northwest Vietnam, don't bother coming. What more can I say...
