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If you need an intensive tutorial on training, purchase my PDF of "Training Around Europe." For even more information, watch the video below. It is so incredibly easy to train around Europe but you must put in a little elbow-grease yourself. Check out the Rail Europe site to see what a Rail Pass costs. Visiting more than one country? How many days do you need, etc.? Then investigate the Rail companies of the country you begin this journey. SBB in Switzerland, DB in Germany, SNCF in France and check those prices. You cannot buy a Rail Pass on any of those sites. Passes are only available in country of origin but get an idea of a round-trip or one-way price vs. a pass to see if that is a more economical option.
Now you have options and can make an intelligent decision.
Continue reading "Training From The Zurich, Switzerland Airport" »
Stories, problems, mishaps while traveling are usually funny, rather than tragic only in hindsight. Ah yes. Here are a very few of the more laughable incidents during years and years of travel:
- Hiking through the pastures of Switzerland, big, healthy-looking cows roam freely. After all, this is their territory. No worries until the day we were hiking uphill on a steep incline and a herd of cows picked up speed coming downhill, right at us. Where do you run? To the left? To the right? We stood there in horror with visions of a major cow-flattening when they fortunately swerved. Wheew...another accident adverted.
Continue reading "There's A Bat in My Tent... A Few Tales From the Road" »
It's so easy and comfortable to cycle around Lake Constance for one day or a week. A leisure bicyclist could complete the entire 268 km/166 circuit in 7 days without any problem and even three days if you are one of those 80 km/50 mile/day bicyclists. One of the many websites to look at is Bodensee-Radweg who will arrange tours including breakfast as well as transport bags.
Another way of doing the circuit is to base yourself in Lindau and use the wonderful public transport facilities. Ride until you are tired and then hop the train or ferry back to Lindau or Bregenz. Don't have to worry about transporting heavy luggage, unpacking and packing or finding suitable accommodation.
Continue reading "Easy Bicycling Around Lindau, Germany and Lake Constance" »
A million lifetimes isn't enough to explore Europe on foot, bicycle or just sightsee. Each time we visit and choose a different country area to explore, it's love at first sight. In Europe, you can begin the day in one destination, hike/bike or walk around lakes, up and over mountains, visit charming towns on the way and return at night on the fast and efficient train and bus systems. Public transportation and chairlifts are bicycle/children/people friendly, there is always a refuge or mountain hut to stop for lunch and every region, without exception is gorgeous.
Here are seven of my favorite areas along with personal favorite towns. It will come as no surprise to anyone that Switzerland is #1 followed by Austria #2 because they are "no brainers" thanks to wonderful signage on almost all routes. France is a close #3:
Continue reading "Sheila's 7 Favorite Countries to Hike, Bike, Walk in Europe" »
The Zurich Kloten Airport (Flughafen) has to be one of the easiest airports in Europe to navigate. Signs in both German and English, personnel that speak many languages, along with free baggage carts both inside and outside the terminals. Some of the many airlines will check in luggage and give your boarding card the evening before. Unfortunately, none of the American Airlines will do that.
United Airlines usually lands at the new Terminal E gates and you must take the Skymetro (train) between that terminal and the Arrival area where Customs is located. Your Swiss experience immediately begins on the Skymetro with Heidi blowing kisses to the passengers as the train zooms through the tunnel, alpenhorns and Swiss music fills the cars and the sounds of cow's mooing and clanking bells add to the fun. You'll hear most of the passengers laughing when the mooing begins.
Continue reading "Sheila's Fast and Easy Zurich Kloten Airport, Switzerland" »
This was our third trip to the St. Moritz, Pontresina, Engadine Valley area, one of the highest in altitude in Europe. With Global Warming, etc., snow levels are no longer reliable and it is important to pick a high-altitude destination to ensure good quality snow. The snow levels were great in this area and we still had one more day to walk and snowshoe around.
A short 3-4 block walk downhill to the main Pontresina train station to wait for the train heading towards the Bernina Pass. The buses from Pontresina also go to these two lifts. It just depends what form of transportation is more convenient at the time you choose. On the train to the base of the Diavolezza lift. It was another gorgeous sunny day and I don't know whether I love the Swiss Alps more in the Winter or Summer. The big Summer advantage is that prices drop around 50% at most hotels. You can still hike up and over mountains, come down in another town and bus or train back. The same ubiquitous yellow signs are everywhere, pointing you in the right direction at each trail intersection along with average time to your destination. Even I have trouble getting lost...
yellow directional hiking/biking/x-country signs
Continue reading "Pontresina's Diavolezza and Langalb Areas, Switzerland" »
On the little Rhatische Bahn train heading up in altitude to the Morteratsch valley for today's snowshoeing. These trains also continue past the Morteratsch, stopping at the Bernina-Divaolezza lift, and Bernina Lagalb lift. From there it is over the Bernina Pass down into Poschiavo, Italy which would make a great day trip. Poschiavo is the main village in this area situated on Lago di Poschiavo and known for its churches and Palazzi. You could also continue on to Tirano, Italy. The Bernina Pass is the highest altitude open railway crossing of the Alps and the Glacier Express leads from Piz Bernina straight across the Alps to the Matterhorn.
At the opposite end of the Engadine Valley, you can take the Swiss PostAuto coach down to Lake Como and on to Lugano. In Switzerland, it doesn't take very long to get almost anywhere opening up infinite opportunities for touring and sightseeing. But today's destination was most definitely the Morteratsch valley...nirvana for walkers, cross-country skiers and downhill skiers.
Morteratsch map
Continue reading "Train From Pontresina To The Morteratsch Glacier, Switzerland" »
St. Moritz is the home of the rich and famous. The main bus stop was just inches away from Escada, Prada, Bally, Rolex (the real thing - not knock-offs) along with many other name brands. Very expensively dressed women walked by in furs and expensive duds. Some were obviously "trophy wives" (or "trophy friends") on the arms of "older" (equally expensively dressed) men. (If I were ever to remarry, I'm going looking for a man between 90-100, carrying an oxygen cannister with mega-bucks.) There was no one in the vicinity dressed like ex-Marine and myself, in non-matching clothes and probably reeking of sweat.
We had just finished snowshoeing up a slope by the Suvretta House Hotel, one of the Leading Hotels of the World, just oozing class and money. However, despite a few dirty looks, we did walk through the lobby to use the bathroom trying to look as if we belonged. R-I-G-H-T! And then it was snowshoes on, and start up the run (fairly bare in spots - Spring skiing)...
snow-shoeing up
Continue reading "St. Moritz In The Engadin Valley, Switzerland" »
There is a famous Olympic Bob Sled run in St. Moritz/Celerina. The only remaining natural ice bobsleigh track made with only snow and water. There are national and international races every weekend for 2-men and 4-men bobs. If you are a thrill-seeker (I'm not) take a guest ride with an experienced pilot. You get a certificate, photo and pin (about $140 for the thrills and chills). Or for experienced bob sledders, you can get a temporary membership and speed down the Cresta Run yourself on a small racing tobaggan. (Around $360 for 5 runs.) All this may sound expensive but if this is your sport, it's worth every dollar. For people like us, just stand around this course and watch the pros zoom by.
The various Engadin villages maintain and prepare over 100 miles of paths and promenades in the winter. We snowshoed into the Val Roseg along with too many walkers of all ages to count. Everyone out for a stroll in the sun. There were also cross-country skiers, horse drawn sleighs, parents pulling children on sleds, all headed to the Roseg Glacier Restaurant about 9 kms/6 miles each way. A private sleigh there and back runs around $120. (Nothing is cheap in Switzerland. Nothing has ever been cheap in Switzerland but what fun to actually take a horse-drawn sleigh ride.)
Val Roseg sleigh ride
Continue reading "Engadin Valley Sports and Entertainment in Switzerland" »
When you travel, "it's always something"...and this trip to Switzerland was no exception. On the United flight from Washington, DC to Zurich, I was the unfortunate person who had the only defective entertainment unit in coach. The overhead light went on and off at will, the monitor screen brightness level would suddenly appear on the screen in the middle of the movie and brighten up the entire film to oblivion, the sound levels went up and down shattering eardrums, and the monitor would fall every now and then from its upright position into my shin.
The Zurich airport compensated with its very easy navigation. You get from Terminal C to A where baggage and immigration is located by a spanking new people-mover. The doors shut and background mood music begins, "Swiss style." The clanking of cow bells, some yodeling and even a cow mooing. Fun. A fast showing of the passport at Customs and wait for your bags at a carousel with two illuminated signs. One showing exactly how minutes it will be before your baggage appears (it keeps counting down) and another giving information about every train whisking through the Zurich Airport along with its destination during the next hour.
Continue reading "Arriving At The Zurich, Switzerland Airport" »
It's no secret how much ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I enjoy Switzerland. Whether it's summer hiking, visiting the many picturesque towns or snowshoeing in the winter on crispy snow, there is no easier place to visit and travel around. Their train system has to be the world's best. (For detailed information on training around Europe, Sheila's Guide to European Train Travel is filled with money-saving tips.)
Last winter's destination was Pontresina. Originally, we'd planned on snowshoeing in St. Moritz but couldn't find a hotel whose prices suited us. Our solution - stay in Pontresina, only a few miles down the road from St. Moritz and connected by both trains and constantly running buses. It pays to be flexible. The Pontresina Tourist Bureau will send oodles of information including hotels, maps, etc. or just get whatever information you need off their website.
Pontresina area in Switzerland
Continue reading "Pontresina, Switzerland In The Winter" »
Plan a trip to Switzerland this summer. Re-watch The Sound of Music (even though it was filmed in Austria the scenery is the same)...re-read Heidi (even though that was filmed in Germany)...practice some yodeling...think about scrumptious pastries and if that's not enough... We've traveled the country from one end to another with ease but I'm encouraging you to visit Davos because they have a fantastic deal in 2008. Davos is offering FREE buses throughout the valley...FREE , unlimited rides on their mountain railways, gondolas and chair lifts. If you've ever visited Switzerland or any other European country for that matter, you'll understand what a great deal this is. Any transportation in Switzerland is costly...think lots of $$$ for each gondola or bus ride and we have never heard of them giving anything for FREE. The Davos inclusive card will be given to anyone who stays in Davos at least one night in a paid accommodation.
Not only can you hike but there are unlimited mountain bike routes. Rent a mountain bike, get on a bus, train or gondola, head for the day's destination up in the mountains or in one of the side valleys, ride as long as you want and take public transportation back to where you started. Take a trail with very little incline or huff and puff your way up a harder one.
blue trails are easy, red a little more difficult and this isn't a complete trail map
Continue reading "Summer in Davos, Switzerland" »
Another bit of information. There is always a TV station in both Austria and Switzerland that does nothing but show all the ski mountains, temperature and snow conditions every morning, along with a dedicated TV station in each resort letting you know what is going on that day.
Before heading to the mountains on this gorgeous day, and after another humungous breakfast (this is why we have to exercise), a little walk down the main street from Davos Platz to Davos Dorf to see what's interesting in the shops. There was one store that had the most unusual display of fiberglass and porcelain cows for sale. Each and every one different and unique collectible. As a Chicagoan, I was instantly reminded of the Cows on Parade Art Exhibit in 1999 when 100's of cows were promenaded through the streets. The Cows were works of art that were painted and conceived by Chicago artists, architects, photographers and designers. This display was originally conceived by Beat Seeberger-Quin and presented in - where else - Zurich, Switzerland, in 1998. When I questioned the owner about these personality-plus cows, she told us they were "Made in America"...in Kansas City no less by CowParade and the prices for these adorable cows is one-third less than the Swiss prices. (When was the last time you saw anything that wasn't made in China?)
Elvis and Indians
Continue reading "The Rhinerhorn and Jacobshorn on a Beautiful Day in Davos, Switzerland" »
Perhaps because ex-Marine and I are getting older, this was the first time that we noticed the inordinate amount of people walking...not hiking...walking. And the average age was at least 70 years old. We saw seniors, slowly walking on the level promenades, up gradual inclines (not climbing), mothers pushing baby carriages and walking hand-in-hand with little tots UP the mountain. Almost everyone using hiking sticks, doing some version of Nordic Walking and ocasionally resting on the many benches along the trails, taking in the views.
If you are curious about all this emphasis on burning calories, I have been waiting all my life for the "good fairy sisters" - "eat all you want" and "you'll never have to exercise again" - to visit but they still haven't made an appearance. This (and my high genetic cholesterol) forces me to plan two out of every three trips with some sort of exercise. Lots of walking, hiking, trekking or snowshoeing...trying desparately to get my heart rate up and burn off some of the many calories I manage to eat. It's easier and more fun than dieting and I'm also interested in some new and interesting way to burn those calories.
seniors resting on bench after walking along the Promenade
Continue reading "Nordic Walking Around Davos Platz, Switzerland" »
Swiss towns are so beautiful. We'd start our day tanking up at the ArtHaus Hotel's typical Swiss buffet breakfast. Four different kinds of cereal, ham, cheese, jams, butter, croissants, hard rolls, wheat breads, two kinds of yoghurt, juice, fruit and coffee. That would see us through the day...easily. Relax a little bit (Europeans are fairly laid back about waiting until around 10am to set out for whatever they plan to do that day). Catch one of the free buses that ran every 20 minutes throughout the valley to wherever we wanted to snowshoe.
Other suggestions for food - look for a COOP, SPAR or MIGROS, the main grocery chains in Europe to buy almost anything. A perfectly adequate bottle of wine there is $3. They even had some for $1 but I was a little leary... a dollar... don't know... Bakery goods, cold cuts, and once again almost everyone speaks English. If they don't, just gesture, use charades and you'll have no problem. I loved the COOP in Davos - two floors and the escalators even had a separate escalator for the shopping baskets. Just push the basket on this dedicated escalator and it rode up or down with you. Very clever idea.
baskets on the left - people on the right
Continue reading "Snowshoeing, Walking and Food - What We Enjoy In Switzerland" »
Walking up a side street, we saw this striking, colorful and cheery-looking hotel View image...and went in to see if they could accommodate us and what the prices were. Little did we know that this would turn out to be our lucky day. The ArtHaus Hotel Quisiana is run and owned by the extremely personable artist, Diego Do Clavadetscher. The hotel is decorated beautiful with his works of art, Diego Do was very helpful, the prices were reasonable for Davos and WI-FI was included. Only one caveat, if you decide to stay here, there is no elevator. We chose a very spacious room on the 3rd floor and climbed up and down 55 steps many times a day. But, it was very worth it because of Diego Do's helpfulness and the outstanding Chef de Cuisine.
You've heard me tell many times how I dearly love good food and ArtHaus Hotel's chef was truly outstanding. We opted for 1/2 board (pension). and were thrilled that we did. Dinner was 25SF a person and it is impossible to eat in Davos for that amount and for the quality of the food. Even a McDonald's Whopper Meal (there is one in Davos Dorf) runs over 10SF, to give you an idea. If there is something on the evening menu that you don't care for ("Bunny foo-foo" or "Bambi" in our case), they will substitute something else with no problem. If just wish my salads looked as appetizing as the salad the Chef de Cuisine prepared....
dinner salad
Continue reading "Some Miscellaneous Information About Davos, Switzerland" »
For Winter, 2007, Davos had many different packages to choose from depending on what category hotel you wanted and whether or not you skied. For example, 7 nights at a ** Hotel, breakfast and dinner daily, welcome drink and 6-day lift ticket cost around 1061 Swiss Francs (SF from no on) or about $800 per person. An apartment ran 690SF (a little less than $580 per person. The apartment included 7 nights lodging including breakfast delivery, welcome drink and 6-day ski pass for the Davos-Klosters area. Klosters is the area where Prince Charles and family usually ski...very ritzy. But don't choose an apartment unless you are prepared to cook. Dining out is very expensive in Switzerland. We always try to take half-board (also called half-pension), breakfast and dinner with all services and taxes included, the best bargain in this not inexpensive country. Sorry to tell you but there is no way you will be able to find a restaurant costing less than $20-30, usually just for a salad and entree. ...View image...At least when you take half-board, the various hotels and pensions usually include anywhere from a 4-5-course meal. That could include: soup, salad (possibly a salad buffet), sometimes an appetizer, entree and dessert. Wine, soft drinks and/or coffee at dinner is always extra. Ask for a carafe of tap water instead of paying dearly for a bottle of mineral water unless the hotel/restaurant refuses to serve it. If so, you are stuck.
The wait staff is usually very obliging about this and we are here to tell you that Europeans are coming around to our way of thinking and it's not unusual to see carafes of water of their tables now.
part of a breakfast buffet
Continue reading "Davos, Switzerland In The Winter" »
There is nothing not to like about Switzerland except the high prices. Switzerland has always been pricey and probably always will be pricey, but there are ways of working around it and it is definitely worth a little brain-work. I can't think of country in Europe that makes it easier for novices or pros to get around. From the moment you land in Zurich's Kloten Airport, on trains and every little town...people speak English, make announcements in English and go out of their way to help us linguistically challenged people.
Zurich Airport has a new terminal, E, which connects to customs and baggage claim via a spanking-new people mover train. Standing on the train, Swiss scenes painted on the walls rolled by, Swiss music with alpenhorns played in the background complete with mooing cows, and clanking cow bells. Even jet-lagged, everyone in the train car started laughing.
how to get to Davos
Continue reading "Davos, Switzerland in Winter or Summer" »
There are high altitude trails; easy trails; trails to walk with children to see the Marmots; for die-hards - Tour Monte Rosa - a walk consisting of 9 daily stages (total of 290 km). You can ascend the Matterhorn (you can, not me) - 4 hours up and 4 hours down with a guide. Barbeque facilities; folklore; climbing walls; geological trips; mountain bike tours; mule trekking; ornithological walks; paragliding; tennis; fishing; swimming pools. Even Summer Camps for snowboarders and skiers the end of July and beginning of August. Is that enough to occupy yourself?
Or, you can sit and do nothing but look at that awesome Matterhorn, wildflowers and people-watch. Swiss Rail Pass
Continue reading "Visiting Switzerland in the Summer" »
We selected the Hotel Aristella for our stay. There are umpteen hotels, pensions, apartments in Zermatt...it's a matter of choice. What tipped Hotel Aristella in my favor was their blurb about excellent cuisine...that is the way to my heart. (They didn't mislead us...the food was excellent!)
Since Lufthansa had managed to lose our luggage between Frankfurt and Zurich, our hotel turned out to be even more important. Natalie and Katerine (front desk people) went out of their way to place phone call after phone call to Lufthansa, Zermatt Post Office, etc., trying to track the bags down. How important was that? Everyone has experienced dialing a call and going through umpteen prompts before a live person answers? Try that when all the prompts are in German! They translated for us, the owners threw our hand-washed laundry into their dryers at no charge...they were all just downright wonderful...and the bags finally materialized, three days later!
We learned our lesson years ago and always travel with hiking boots (or winter boots) on our feet, warm jackets, hats, gloves on us...and never pack your medications or toiletries in your luggage. Just in case! And it was a good thing those items were on us (or with us). It helped us muddle by until the luggage materialized..
Continue reading "In Zermatt, Snowshoeing or Summer Hiking in Switzerland" »
Ex-marine and I just returned from snow-shoing in Zermatt, Switzerland, and thought other "directionally/ language challenged " people (like us) would like to know how very easy it is to travel in Europe...especially in Switzerland.
- Train stops are usually repeated in three languages: German, French and English.
- They give you a timetable telling what platform your train leaves from and what platform your next train leaves if you are making connections.
- The conductors all speak English.
- There are tourist information offices in the stations with English-speaking personnel, maps, bus information.
- Credit cards are accepted everywhere for everything.
- Big train stations have ATM's, McDonald's, Burger King, small food stalls.
Always carry or buy water though...the water on the trains is considered "Non-Potable" or, "don't even think about drinking it"! The Europeans usually carry sandwiches, munchies, wine, etc. on trains to nosh while travelling. There are also rolling carts that come through on board selling food items, but they are more expensive. If you have a long journey, buy what you need beforehand. Take some Baggies with you.
It is impossible for any country to make it any easier to travel.
Continue reading "Using the Swiss Train System" »
My research starts by surfing through most ski and resort websites. This year, I chose Zermatt - we've summer- hiked there twice before but never snowshoed in the winter.
Zermatt has a terrific site - information galore - trail maps, hotel listings with prices and direct links to the individual hotels if you prefer. I like to take my time and browse through each hotel's link before deciding.
Next step? Air and rail - how to get there for the least amount of money. We picked Switzerland because the Swiss Franc isn't too outrageous again the U.S. Dollar. Even though the $ has gained some ground against the Euro, some hotels in Euros countries are ridiculously expensive.
Continue reading "Arranging a Trip to Zermatt, Switzerland" »
We were skiing in Crested Butte, Co in 1995. Standing at the mountain base , I saw a young girl running down the mountain on snowshoes. All she was wearing was a sweatshirt, sweatpants and running shoes attached to her snowshoes. My eyes lit up and, under his breath, the ex-Marine muttered "I think she's found another sport for us to do". How right he was! It turned out she was a member of the ski team and every morning they ran up the mountain and down the mountain for endurance.
All you need is equipment (we use Atlas Snowshoes), hiking poles (our choice is "Leki") and you are ready!
We took a lesson at Crested Butte and decided that just walking along in the snow was too easy and a little boring. It would be a lot more fun, not to mention a challenge, to hike UP, the mountain with snowshoes on (of course that was my idea) - and that was the beginning of our new sport.
Continue reading "Snowshoeing in Europe" »
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