Stage 11: Saint Julien d'Arpaon, France to Saint Germain de Calberte
IF we had opted to do the 11th Stage, a brutal 28 kms/17 miles to Saint Germain de Calberte again with only one place to stay, the trail notes would have read like this:
"Leave Saint Julien d'Arpaon and follow the old railroad line along a gorge until you reach Cassagnas. Cassagnas is a typical old village and Stevenson had lunch here ...in the company of a gendarme and a merchant. . From here, the trail starts climbing and there is no habitation until Le Serre de la Can, situated a few kilometers before Saint Germain de Calberte. A forest track through the pines until Pierre Plantee pass (the highest point of the day). Bridges, forests and a junction signposted to Le Serre de la Can," yadda, yadda....
Instead....the proprietor's son (Domaine des 3 Tilleuls) drove us. A very snaky, windey, 45-minute car ride and worth every Euro we paid him. It would have been a very long walk and as long as we had the option to ride instead of walk, we took it. Go ahead...call us wimps...but when an option comes along, take it.
The Hotel Le Petit Calbertois is a part of a "vacation village" and located above Saint Germain de Calberte. (There was a trail leading downhill into town.) The GR runs right through the grounds and the owners were very helpful. Truthfully, we were a little bummed out by not overnighting in St. Germain de Calberte itself. A very small village with a 12th century Romanesque church.
The most unusual, unbalanced dinner of the trip. Two sugar crepes to start with, a slice of pizza, chicken breast, huge hunk of meat lasagna, cheese platter with bread and creme brulee. If all of that didn't carbo load the body and send a sugar rush through the brain, nothing will.
If you've never traveled to France before, every restaurant, inn, gite, little bar and outdoor cafe posts their menus and beverage price lists. Bars and outdoor cafes even post the difference between drinking/eating indoors or outside. There's no reason to ever be surprised by the bill when it's presented. The only addition to the bill would be tips if it doesn't say "taxe inclusive" (included) on the menu.
Time to debate tomorrow options. It's 21 km/12+miles to Saint Jean du Gard, the end of Stevenson's journey. To shorten the day, we could cut 9 km/6 miles off by taking a taxi to Saint Etienne Valley Francaise. There is also a cabdriver available at Le Serre de la Can...maybe...we'll decide tomorrow morning.
