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- The Mediterrean Areas of France and Spain
- The Teatre-Museu Dali in Figueres, Spain
- Casa Salvador Dali in Cadaques, Spain
- There's A Lot to See and Do in Cadaques, Spain
- Walking From Port de La Selva to Cadaques, Spain
- Walking From Llanca to Port de la Selva, Spain
- Walking From Portbou/Port Bou to Llanca, Spain
- Walking From Banyuls, France to Portbou/Port Bou, Spain
- Walking From Collioure to Banyuls sur Mer, France
- The Journey to Collioure, France
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It was time to pack our bags, leave Perpignan and board the direct (thankfully) TGV from Perpignan to Charles de Gaulle Airport, zooming in around 8:00 p.m. By TGV (High-Speed Train), it's a comfortable, six-hour train ride that gave plenty of time to reflect on this trip. A fast McDonald's hamburger in CDG Airport (this made four consecutive nights of sandwiches) and free transfer to the least expensive hotel I could find by the airport, Ibis North for one night before flying home the next day. Ibis was having a "30 Sale" and the hotel came out to $50 when converted into Euros. It couldn't have possibly gotten any cheaper than this!
Thinking back on the past two weeks, I do have some suggestions along with miscellaneous thoughts. Along the Cote Vermeille that stretches along the coast of the Mediterranean to the Spanish border, I strongly recommend visiting the small town of Collioure -
- Collioure has history. Roman and Greek sailors traveled here. It became a trading port in 673 and was the summer residence of the Mallorcan Court in the 13th century;
- Notre Dame des Anges Church is perched up on foundations built in the sea. The Belfy was originally a warning tower for the harbor; and
Continue reading "The Mediterrean Areas of France and Spain" »
The week's hiking portion from France into Spain was over. Six hikers staying at Hotel S/aguarda in Cadaques (Helen and Kevin, two French ladies and us) were going to be transferred back to Colliioure by van. A 1-1/2 hour stop was scheduled in Figueres first for those who wanted to visit the famous Teatre-Museu Dali (Dali Theater Museum). The weather changed from brilliant sun and warmth to cool with rain, a perfect day to spend inside in a museum.
TIP: If you are a student, senior or are traveling with children, always present identity papers/passports for a possible discount at any attraction. We showed our passports and saved 2 euros each. Lucky for us, the Salvador Dali Theatre-Museum opened at 9:30 a.m. instead of the 10:30 a.m., allowing a little extra time to visit. I've never been a Dali fan but this museum turned out to be extremely interesting and my grandchildren would have loved the bizarre and amazing exhibits.
Continue reading "The Teatre-Museu Dali in Figueres, Spain" »
Hotel S'aguarda also serves a huge breakfast buffet with ham, cheese, yogurt, etc. A sign over the tables asks "Please do not take food away" which we've seen people do all over Europe ( I had no intention of doing that). Another sunny and warm day, perfect for the walk to Casa Dali in Port Lligat, one of his many homes.
The Cadaques Tourist Office had given us detailed information on three walking routes in the area. Route 1 begins in Port Lligat, considered medium dificulty and takes 1-1/2 hours each direction to Cap de Creus, the most easterly part of Spain. Route 3, also medium difficulty and 1-1/2 hours heads up to St. Sebastian Hermitage overlooking Cadaques. Route 4, easy, and 45 minutes, goes to Cala Nana Lighthouse. Strange that there was no Route 2. Just 1, 3 and 4. The GR 11 and GR 92 (long distance hiking routes) also work their way through Cadaques.
Continue reading "Casa Salvador Dali in Cadaques, Spain" »
Cadaques has an old quarter with plentiful galleries, art and craft shops, along with clothes. Most shops only open on weekends in the winter, but Cadaques jumps from Easter on. The climate is mild doesn't get too hot in summer. Information Office told us that the Tramontana can result in very "uncomfortable" weather during the winter (as if we hadn't already found that out for ourselves).
Salvador Dali is the big claim to fame for Cadaques and there were posters, reproductions and statues throughout Cadaques. We both really enjoyed the reproductions along the waterfront that showed exactly what Dali was looking at when he painted it. Most of them were even recognizable! Santa Maria Church in the center of the village had a fantastic baroque altar completed in 1729 of gilded wood and dedicated to "Our lady of hope." It was behind bars that are only opened for Mass and the Church is the highest point of the old town.
Continue reading "There's A Lot to See and Do in Cadaques, Spain" »
Both of us nearly fainted when we walked into the Hotel Porto Christo dining room for breakfast. A gigantic buffet of eggs, bacon, juice, yogurt, breads, sweet rolls, juices, cold cuts...View image...everything. The biggest breakfast we'd seen during the trip and you should have seen us eat. Still trying to make a decision, do we walk or take a taxi. Today is supposed to be the longest walking day of the trip through rugged maquis landscape (dense growth of small trees and shrubs in the Mediterranean area) to Cap de Creus, the easternmost point on the Spanish mainland. The distance was 16.5 km/10.5 miles to this point with another 6 km/4 miles left to go on paths to Cadaques. I must have looked over the topographic map umpteen times looking for a bailout point if I got too tired. The highway, small village, public transportation but there was nothing. That decided it and we ordered a taxi to drive us to Cadaques.
Instead, we spent the morning walking around Port de la Selva watching the fishing boats...View image...View image, and fishermen mending nets before the taxi came. A 12 km/7.5 mile taxi ride cost 25 euros! Rather on the expensive side, wouldn't you say?
Continue reading "Walking From Port de La Selva to Cadaques, Spain" »
Today's route called for steep climb from sea level to the Monastery of Saint Pere de Rodes near the summit of San Salvador peak. This monastery is considered the most important building from the Roman era in Catalonia and can be reached by car (if you are driving) along with footpaths from Llanca or halfway to Port de la Selva in Vall de Creu. The trip notes went on to state walking along the Serrat de la Guerra ridge. Approximately 12 km/7 miles, with five hours walking. The Tramontana is still blowing and the topographic map shows a seaside route that follows the shore all the way from Llanca to Port de la Selva. I really would have liked to visit the Monastery of Saint Pere de Rodes but that's not going to happen. Sea shore route, here we come, even if the distances are the same.
It's sunny, windy and it didn't take long before we stopped along the route and changed to t-shirts because that sun was hot. A very easy walk and one that included a wonderful promenade into Port de la Selva for walkers that extended several miles with different overlooks into the sea and Port de la Selva in the distance with small, white houses climbing the mountain slopes..
Continue reading "Walking From Llanca to Port de la Selva, Spain" »
How can I tactfully relate what today was like? I can't. It was one mean "M-F". It began with ample sunshine and we decided it was going to be a t-shirt day. The usual routine...ate breakfast, left the suitcases for transport...and walked outside. It was downright cool if not cold and the wind was roaring across the mountains. Back inside Hotel La Masia, changed into long sleeved polypropylene shirts and set off on the GR 92 right in front of the hotel. Got lost immediately and had to do a little backtracking before finding the right way, up stairs between buildings.
Continuing up the first hill with the train tracks below, it became windier and windier (if that was possible). The "Tramontana/Tramuntana" winds were vicious. The Italian word is, Tramontano, from the mountains. However you spell it, the Tramontana is a cold wind from the north or northeast that can be anywhere from Force 8 (Fresh Gale) to Force 9 (Strong Gale) on the Beaufort Scale. A Force 8 will break twigs from trees and cause cars to veer on road. A Force 9 will blow over small trees, break large branches and topple signs and canopies. And this (is what we discovered later) was what we were walking in today. The Tramontana is extremely dangerous, occasionally blows from November through March, and if you're ever in this area and hear the word "Tramontana," don't do any mountain walks.
Continue reading "Walking From Portbou/Port Bou to Llanca, Spain" »
Actually, we didn't walk. I had surgery three weeks before this trip and faithfully promised my surgeon that I wouldn't overdo. After yesterday's 9-1/2 mile walk, it was the easier option (and smarter) to train it from Banyuls sur Mer to Portbou/Port Bou. A skimpy breakfast at hotel with only rolls, juice and coffee, left the bags to be transported and walked to the Banyuls sur Mer train station for a short ride to Portbou right over the France/Spain border. Cerbere is the last Cote Vermeille town before you cross the border into Spain and is supposed to be another extremely beautiful little village. Cap Cerbere has a solar lighthouse referred to as the lighthouse at the end of the world. In French, "Le Phare du Bout du Monde." According to Cerbere's Information office, there are four self-guided walking tours that leave from the center of the town. A person could just park themselves there and do some gentle walks in the area.
The Border police came on the train at Cerbere to check passports/identity papers, and one of the Police looked at ex-Marine's and immediately said, "Tom Jones!" This is not the first time that someone has remarked on his resemblance to either Tom Jones, Anthony Quinn, Tom Flores, ex-coach of the Oakland Raiders, and Smoky Robinson. Once in Portbou, you must show passports/identity papers once again to get from the platform into the station itself.
Continue reading "Walking From Banyuls, France to Portbou/Port Bou, Spain" »
Breakfast. Dropped our suitcases for transfer by La Pelerine to Banyuls sur Mer and were on the trails by 9:20 a.m. Another beautiful, sunny day...perfect for walking...past the acres and acres of vineyards. Bayuls sur Mer is the biggest wine village out of all the Vermilliion Coast wine destinations.
It was Sunday and families along the route were taking their own walks, picnicking, driving along the coast and suddenly one car pulled up alongside us. The family jumped out and began chattering away to us in French (of course). I limped into my halting, Je ne parle pas français (I don't speak French), one of the few sentences I am fluent in and Madame started saying over and over again, asperge, asperge. Completely bewildered. Was she saying, "asparagus"? (My "menu French" is excellent!) In the meantime, Monsieur leaped out of the car, slid down the embankment and started hacking off something green with a pen knife which he presented to us. Sure enough, it was wild asparagus that they were out hunting and really wanted us to take with for une omelette. Non, non...au revoir to this very sweet family, and we moseyed along.
Continue reading "Walking From Collioure to Banyuls sur Mer, France" »
Happiness is sitting at Dulles, Washington, DC airport and hearing, "Sheila Simkin, please come to the podium"...only to find out you have been upgraded to business class because coach was oversold.. Oh bliss and joy...
Even when things go perfectly, it's a very long night and day of travel. At Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, both suitcases plopped off the conveyer belt immediately, took the inter-terminal train between Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 where the TGV's and RER (to get into Paris) leave from and got in line to validate the France rail pass. (Download Sheila's Easy Guide: European Trains.) The train to Perpignan sped in to Terminal 2 TGV station at 9:30 a.m. and set off on the four-hour journey to Montpellier where we'd have to change trains. An hour wait and on to the next TGV to Perpignan. Seat reservations are compulsory on all TGV's and both trains were completely sold out.
Continue reading "The Journey to Collioure, France" »
Air? This was easy. All air fares were expensive so we just booked the non-stop Chicago-Paris flight on United with a slight deviation outwards. Chicago-Washington, DC-Paris because the DC flight arrives in Paris earlier than the non-stop and we hoped (note the word "hoped") to catch an early high-speed TGV (Train a Grande Vitesse) to Perpignan.
Train? Directly navigated to the Rail Europe site to see if it was more economical to buy a France Rail Pass or point-to-point tickets on arrival either through them or on arrival. (For complete details on trains download Sheila's Guide to European Train Travel.) I also checked the SNCF French Railways to see what the tickets cost in Euros. Conclusion - cheaper to buy the 3-day French Rail Pass. Done deal.
Continue reading "Planning France's Vermillion Coast and Spain's Costa Brava" »
There is a section of France and Spain along the Mediterranean called the Cote Vermeille with an average of 300 days of sunshine each year that becomes theCote Catalane in Spain as you travel south. Situated in the Roussillon county, this part of France is essentially Catalan and was once part of the Aragon kingdom. It is supposed to be breathtakingly beautiful. The Pyrenees slope into the Mediterranean, French and Spanish borders meet in a small area filled with lavender, vineyards, and fishing villages. Collioure, Banyuls and Cadaques are a few of the more famous towns but what interested me was an eight-day walking trail that is at its best during the winter months (it's way too hot in the summer, so think about it for this Fall).
Many different operators run versions of the Cote Vermeille, usually beginning and ending in Collioure but we looked, once again, to La Pelerine. La Pelerine organizes walking/hiking trips ranging from easy to strenuous through France and other countries and has arranged three trips for us. The Robert Louis Stevenson (Chemin Stevenson), Alsace and the first leg of Chemin St. Jacques (also known as the Way of St. James).
Continue reading "The Vermillion Coasts of France and Spain" »
A million lifetimes isn't enough to explore Europe on foot, bicycle or just sightsee. Each time we visit and choose a different country area to explore, it's love at first sight. In Europe, you can begin the day in one destination, hike/bike or walk around lakes, up and over mountains, visit charming towns on the way and return at night on the fast and efficient train and bus systems. Public transportation and chairlifts are bicycle/children/people friendly, there is always a refuge or mountain hut to stop for lunch and every region, without exception is gorgeous.
Here are seven of my favorite areas along with personal favorite towns. It will come as no surprise to anyone that Switzerland is #1 followed by Austria #2 because they are "no brainers" thanks to wonderful signage on almost all routes. France is a close #3:
Continue reading "Sheila's 7 Favorite Countries to Hike, Bike, Walk in Europe" »
We couldn't have picked a nicer and more beautiful place to end the Pyrenees trip than Hotel Ezeiza, in San Sebastian. Great public transportation, the hotel overlooked Concha Bay and it was only a short walk across the street to the fantastic promenade that followed the entire distance of the beach.
San Sebastian (Donostia, in Basque) is just 30 miles from Biarritz, across the Spanish border. La Concha beach is crescent-shaped and reminded us of a miniature Acapulco, set between mountain headlands. You would have thought we had enough walking by now but, no, dropped the bags and headed out to explore. What a wonderful town for walking. Riverside walks, the long seafront promenades and broad streets. There were even paths to mountain viewpoints but we had definitely had enough of that for a while.
 San Sebastian map
Continue reading "Resting In San Sebastian and A Little Spain Information" »
This was our last Pyrenees hiking day. Not only was it sunny and HOT but also a mere 8-miler. Oh joy of joys... The van dropped us off at almost the same spot we stopped yesterday in Selva de Oza. The trail started by crossing the Rio-Aragon-Subordan and then it climbed steeply up to the Collado de Petraficha (pass). Today, there really were magnificent views of the Castilla de Acher and Bisaurin mountains and, for the first time, we saw other hikers. Groups of hikers spread all over this area.
The group took time walking down, enjoying the wonderful sun, resting now and then, no one in a hurry on this beautiful day. There was a Basque shepherd shearing his sheep in the middle of the sunny meadow, right under a Pyrenees sign, wildflowers, blue sky...what a fantastic way to end the trip...with great memories.
sheep shearing by a trail map
Continue reading "One Last Spanish Pyrenees Hike and Hondarribia" »
The weather has changed only a bit...a light rain on the drive to the trailhead at Formigal.. The trail meandered uphill along a stream to the Ibons (lakes) de Anayet at 7,349'/2,239m. ...View image... A picnic lunch with perfect views of the peaks when it wasn't sleeting or raining on us. Then, a descent to the open pastures of the Valley Canal Roya on a series of switchbacks. Along the valley floor through boxwood and pines to Rio Aragon.
A short drive to Canfranc, an important rest stop in medieval days for pilgrims on the Way of St. James, a Spain section of the long distance pilgrimage route we took through part of France (this section is part of the Arles route). This small market village gave pilgrims their chance to rest after they crossed over the pass of Somport in the Pyrenees. Canfranc was also a command post, protecting the borders and controlling taxes.
 Pyrenees map section
Continue reading "In Canfranc, Spanish Pyrenees" »
An early breakfast, bags downstairs into the van, ready for a long day's hike and transfer to Panticosa.
... View image... A drive to San Nicolas de Bujaruelo, a campsite clustered around the ruins of an old Romanesque church with a medieval bridge.
Wearing shorts, it was actually sunny but not for long. Miguel picked a difficult trail through the valley and we started up towards the pass. First a light rain started...thunder could be heard in the distance...followed by lightening. Miguel kept saying, "don't worry...the storm is too far away"...but I could see the lightning bolts in the distance. The major rule of hiking/trekking during an electrical storm is go down. Not us, we continued climbing.
Continue reading "From Torla to Panticosa In The Spanish Pyrenees" »
It rained all night and was still raining this morning. Miguel telephoned the Refugio de Goriz and was informed there were heavy snow conditions in the mountains. Presented to the group, all decided a two-hour hike in the rain would be more than sufficient and gladly forget the Refugio. With that decision made, the van drove us to a location in the Parque Nacional de Ordesa for an out and back along the Ordesa River. ...View image... Ordesa Park is made up of three separate valleys starting out of Monte Perdido. This area was carved by glaciers, and runs east to west rather than north to south like most valleys.
The forest gave some shelter from most of the heavy rain and was beautiful. Green moss on the rocks, wildflowers peeking up through the snow... Some of the many beautiful alpine shrubs and wildflowers were Edelweiss, Gentians, and Belladonna adding some color to the grey day. The scariest part of the day was crossing over wooden bridges made slippery by the rain. Sometimes, I'd rather just wade through the river than face one of those bridges. After all, we were sopping wet anyhow...
 crossing one of the many rivers
Continue reading "Forget The Refugio, Bring on Torla, Spain" »
Gary has rapidly become Steve's (ex-Marine) favorite person in the entire world, because...he manufactures CANDY! And what a supply he's brought with for him and his two sons along with an ample amount for everyone else. ex-Marine is in hog heaven. Gary has also promised to send him candy in the mail. Could life get any better? Gary and his wife (second marriage for both like us) do crazy things...even crazier than what our families think we do. One time, there was some kind of race in California where four people chugged along on the railway tracks pumping one of those old moving "whatever you call them rail cars"...think Blazing Saddles...and the partner galloped along on a horse. Halfway, they changed places... It got to the point where their combined children dreaded Christmas when one of them would get an invitation to accompany said parent on a trip. Never to the Caribbean or Paris...more in the order of hiking the Pyrenees or camping in a very remote area.
Now I just get comments from 40+ year old son like..."Mom, aren't you getting too old for this?"...or "Mom, why are you going to Ethiopia?" And our five adult offspring would rather be hung from the neck until dead than come with us on "adventure trips." Where did I go wrong? Not a bone of adventure in any of them. Oh well, back to today's hike...
 ex-Marine and Gary
Continue reading "Barbaruens To Bielsa In The Spanish Pyrenees" »
At least, today started sunny and we set out from Guells de Joeu. The waters of Barrancs re-emerge from the limestone massif and contrary to most of the region's rivers, they flow north to France from Spain. The path was well-marked (ascending, of course) and Inaki was always in the lead, walking very slowly and using the mountaineers typical "rest step." Take one step...rest on that leg...take another step...rest on that leg...and so on. ...View image... Inaki kept that measured pace and wouldn't let anyone pass while Miguel played shepherd at the rear.
At the top of Port of La Picada (the pass), there was a very impressive panoramic view of the Maladeta glacier. By now, the sun had changed to rain and there was some snow at the top of the pass. This was the end of June and if I hear "unseasonable weather" one more time, I'm going to scream.
 meadow filled with wild flowers
Continue reading "On To Benasque, In The Spanish Pyrenees" »
Please don't tell me today is an indicator of the entire trip. Rain. Lunch divided in our day packs and raingear on, a short van ride brought us to the trailhead. Today's 10-mile/6.2km hike would go from Pont de Rius (5,610'/1,709m), climb to the Col of L'Stany de Mar (8,145'/2,482m) and then descend to the Hospital de Viella (5,379'/1,639m). By the way, a Col is a pass.
I prefer uphills to start off with because you warm up quickly. The rain kept changing to snow and back again. Put on Goretex...took it off...put it on again...leaned against a rock and took the trousers off. There were mountains (Besiberri and Montardo/Montarto - 9,842'/3,000m ) around us, glacial cirqes and beautiful lakes down on the valley floor. Through forests and meadows. Eight long hours later, we were finished. Everyone survived a very tough first day.
 on the trail through the forested area
Continue reading "Hiking in The Spanish Pyrenees Over Col L'Stany de Mar" »
The Hotel Regencia Colon is situated in a fantastic location. The old quarter. It was just a few blocks to Las Ramblas and footsteps from Place Catalunya with its massive 13th century Cathedral. Easy to walk down Las Ramblas to the Mediterranean Sea. Las Ramblas is filled with newspaper and flower stands, artists and tourists. You can walk past the old red light district (Barri del Raval), small restaurants and bars, Miro's mosaic and Gaudi's Palau Guell.
From there, a fast walk to Temple Sagrada Familia, Antonio Gaudi's famous unfinished church passing a few of his other unique constructions on the way. Before we knew it, the small group had arrived and we were all transferred to Arties for two nights. There were only eight of us: Gary, with two sons Chris and Lance from California; Kansas Carol; July and Dick from Michigan and us.
 Barcelona Cathedral
Continue reading "Interesting Barcelona and Into The Spanish Pyrenees" »
Air? This was semi-easy. The least expensive air fare at this time was to fly Chicago-Frankfurt on United, change to a Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt-Barcelona on the outbound. The return was a little more complicated. An Aviaco flight from San Sebastian to Madrid, Iberia from Madrid to Paris, connecting to United back to Chicago, our final destination. A multitude of airlines fly to Spain. You shouldn't have any problem deciding for yourself what carrier to use.
Hotels? Some additional reservations were required. Since the tour began in Barcelona, we decided to spend one extra day at the Hotel Regencia Colon, the group hotel. We had never visited Barcelona and would do a little power-sightseeing. Picked the Hotel Ezeiza in San Sebastian for two nights at the end of the tour (down the road from Hondarribia, tour's end) and Sofitel Madrid for one night.
 Basque region of Spain
Continue reading "Planning The Spanish Pyrenees Trip" »
ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I have day-hiked and walked extensively through Europe and the Alps over the years but never gave a thought to the Pyrenees. The Pyrenees are shared by France and Spain with Spain containing the three highest summits and, supposedly, the best scenery. The Pyrenees look like the Alps with peaks, flower-filled meadow, glacial amphitheaters, dense forests and rivers but are much less visited than the Alps.
I knew nothing about any of this until my yearly Wilderness Travel catalog appeared with a trip into the "Heart of The Pyrenees." A 12-day rigorous inn-to-inn hiking adventure. (Since we took this trip, the itinerary has changed slightly.) We've traveled with Wilderness Travel on nine (9) different trips. They are reliable, quick to respond and take action when a trip doesn't go to plan. For example, read about our infamous Hunza Odyssey. Wilderness rebated a nice chunk of money to all participants for the inconveniences and general trip dissatisfaction.
Spanish Pyrenees location
Continue reading "Into The Isolated Spanish Pyrenees" »
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