- Spend hours in the New Market, walking (or attempting to walk) through the congested, bustling districts, eyeballing the old, dilapidated British Raj Landmark Buildings that are unexpectedly tucked into every quarter and always people-watching. This is the only way to really get a feel for Kolkata, not "sightseeing" but immersing; and

- The Victorial Memorial landmark.

If it's race track season and you have the time, enjoy the old British atmosphere of the Royal Calcutta Turf Club for something a little different

Recommendations and Basic Information:

- Stay in the Chowringhee area. It is well located, close to all the action, a stone's throw to the Maidan, shops and restaurants;

- Visas are required for most visitors to India. After one visit to India, odds are you'll return. For not much more money than a single-entry Visa, pay the difference and get a 10-year Visa. Worth every penny;

- Use ATM's to exchange money. Once we figured out how many zeros to add on, it was easy and ATM's are plentiful. The people will also accept Euros and Dollars;

- India is extremely cheap even if you arrange a more "luxurious" style itinerary with private guide and driver (believe me, this was not a "luxury" tour but the 5*****Oberoi and Taj are waiting for you if that's your choice). There are plentiful and clean small hotels, and inexpensive food. If you are really on a shoestring, backpack, stay in hostels/budget hotels and take local transportation. Dine like a king/queen in local restaurants with their excellent food for perhaps $1.00 U.S. maximum;

- We had absolutely no problem with food or water as long as you use common sense. Drink bottled water only, don't eat raw foods, "cook, peel or forget it...", carry basic medication with you; and not to leave you on a "downer" but

- Learn to ignore the beggers and touts. Don't answer...acknowledge...or try to be polite. Put blinders on or you'll hate Kolkata.

If you watched Slum Dog Millionaire, do you remember the scene where the little girl was forced to take a crying baby to beg with? The most upsetting incident of the entire trip happened while sitting in our vehicle with guide and driver on the way to Sunderbans Tiger Reserve. Stopped at a red light in traffic, a begger boy, perhaps 9-10 years old stood in the middle of traffic, carrying a 4-5 month old half-naked crying baby under one arm. He walked up to our rolled up car windows and banged (not tapped but banged) the baby's head against the window to get money. Of course, the baby cried louder, and when we didn't respond, he continued banging the baby's head against the window, over and over again. When I looked the other way, he walked around the car to Steve's side and began hitting the baby's head against his window before moving off to another car to repeat. If that doesn't make you ill, nothing will. Our guide and driver ignored this and said it happens all the time. Whose baby is it? Where does the baby comes from? Nobody knows. These poor babies must become brain-damaged and are just disposable "things" for the beggars to use and discard. And you can't give money because it just encourages the begger to keep going from car to car and continue banging the baby's head against windows. To be perfectly fair, we've visited India seven times and this was a first. Beggers, yes. Touts, plentiful but never deliberate cruelty. Despite the poverty, we never felt threatened or unsafe walking the vibrant Kolkata streets. As a matter of fact, the Bengalis are known for friendliness and warm welcomes.

Kolkata can be humbling and it definitely takes a go-with-the flow mentality to survive but you won't regret the time and effort spent visiting and enjoying Incredible India...

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