Flew from Brisbane to Port Moresby via Air Niugini, had a private transfer to the Gateway Hotel, very close to the airport with excellent facilities. The Gateway has a free shuttle but a private transfer was included in our tour. Our guide warned us not to go outside the hotel perimeter because of the high crime rate in Port Moresby and the hotel was surrounded by barbed wire. This was not an auspicious beginning...ex-Marine was already giving me "looks." And, when we tried to enter the Gateway Restaurant, he was refused service because of the "collar-less" shirt (a t-shirt) on him. Had to eat and the only solution was a trip into Gateway's shop to buy a shirt with a collar! Who'd have thunk it...and it was only for one night! Requiring a shirt with a collar is one way of keeping out the locals.

Port Moresby is considered the worst place to live among the World capitals becasue of its poverty, crime, poor healthcare and a rampant "raskol" gang culture ( pronounced "rascals" and it took a while before we understood what they were talking about). The "Raskols" do everything from rape, bank robberies, to car holdups and use M-16's, machetes and home-made shotguns. Visitors to Port Moresby are advised not to go out after sunset, and avoid walking the streets even during the day. If you live there and have money, your house is surrounded by razor-wire, barbed wire and watched by security guards. Believe me, neither of us had any intention of setting one foot out of the Gateway Hotel.