Phonsovan - UXO's (Unexploded Ordnance) and A School Visit
We were staying in the pretty basic Dok Khoune Guesthouse in Phonsovan (and I do mean basic), very happy that the group was only spending one night here instead of the two originally scheduled. This entire province was one of the most heavily bombed areas on the Earth. The whole area, very close to the border of Vietnam, received the brunt of bombs dropped by the American miltary between 1968-1973 to lighten their loads on the way back to air bases in Thailand, and against the Communist forces in this border region. It is known as the "Secret War."
The bombshells are used by the locals as pig troughs, urns, decoration, etc. and the Dok Khoune Guesthouse had a whole collection of shells and shrapnel decorating the reception/dining area. The most unusual decorating choice we'd ever seen!
The UXO's are all over the region, primarily in the form of small cluster bombs. A cluster bomb is filled with tiny metal balls that do a lot of damage - kill and/or maim. That is why Pat kept repeating that we shouldn't explore any areas without him or touch anything on the ground. The Plain of Jars sites had already been cleared.
Pat, our local guide, lived in a cave with part of his family for eight years during all the bombing. The family separated during a bombing raid with his Mother running out the front door with some of the children, and his Father out the back door with the others. One brother was missing but each parent thought the child was safe with the other. It wasn't until the war was over and the family reunited that they realized their son was missing. Twenty years later, his brother was discovered living in Minnesota! Another Hmong family found the child wandering alone, took him in and when they immigrated to the U.S., he went with them. An extremely sad story with a happy ending.
Pat also teaches English to the local people, five nights a week, and charges them $4 a month. If the person can't afford it, Pat accepts chickens or pigs as payment. Our group was asked to join Pat's nightly class of students and give them a chance to practice their English.
Pat gave each one of us a group of 4-5 Lao students. We were asked not to correct their English but to just give them a chance to verbalize, ask questions and have fun. The two hours flew by and this will always be one of the most heartwarming memories of Laos.
