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I spent the last evening in Islamabad in bed with the thought of food very far from my mind. In the meantime, Margie calls up to the room and says..."Sheila, come down...there's finally good food.." Forget it. A flight to Rawapindi where it all started and Irene's luggage had finally materialized....just three weeks too late. Day rooms in another gorgeous hotel and a late evening Singapore Airlines flight back home.
You have never seen anybody happier to be on a plane in your life. The cabin steward would come to me and say..."Oh, Madame...I have a very yummy desert for you." And I'd go ....ummmmmmmm. I didn't stop eating all the way back to Chicago and continued eating for the next two weeks. Fruits, vegetables, pasta, steak, chicken...a bottomless pit. Doc Margie said she was bringing fruits and vegetables to her office every day and her staff wanted to know if she had become a vegetarian. There's nothing like a "near starvation vacation" to make a person appreciate food.
Continue reading "The Pakistan Hunza Odyssey and Jeep Safari Was Over" »
Peshawar is the capital of the North-West Frontier Province and who hasn't heard of the famous Khyber Pass. We had only one day in the city and what to do...explore or go to the Khyber Pass. By this time, ex-Marine and I were completely burned out from all the driving and the thought of another several hours by "road" in both directions up to the Pass was akin to driving nails into our heads. However, Margie and Art were up for it and this is their account.
You can't just drive up to the Khyber Pass with Afghanastan on one side and Pakistan on the other. No, you need to hire armed guards to accompany you. They hired a vehicle...hired an armed guard to ride shotgun and headed up. Kabul is visible from the top on a clear day, only a short distance away. Margie and Art spent some time in the marketplace that was selling - along with fruits and other sundries - grenades, rifles, assault weapons, bullets, rocket launchers...anything your heart desired in the way of munitions. And then, the long journey back down into Peshawar. Of course in hindsight, we should have gone with because I sincerely doubt we'll ever be in Peshawar again or have a chance to visit the Khyber Pass.
Peshawar map
Continue reading "Peshawar, The Last Big Stop in Pakistan" »
The Swat Valley is very fertile and one of the most historically interesting regions of Pakistan because of Buddhism. Buddhism flourished here from the 2nd though the 9th century, and it is believed to be the birthplace of Tibetan Buddhism. Padmasambhava was born here in the 8th century and then embarked on his journey of conversion through Ladakh and Tibet.
Swat is part of the monsoon belt and looked more like the Alps unlike Chitral, Gilgit and Hunza's dry and arid desert areas. The area is also known as the "Switzerland" of Pakistan with its clear rivers and green valleys. Saidu Sharif is the capital city of Swat District in the Northwest Frontier Province of Pakistan and housed a Museum (not that we saw it).
Continue reading "From The Kalash Valley Into Swat, Pakistan" »
There are three Kafir Kalash valleys located in the northwest of Pakistan : Birir, Bumburet and Rumbur with 20 different villages that retain most of their animist ancestor and fire-worship religions and culture. This entire area has been invaded for eons by Alexander the Great and the Mongols, just to name a few. The Kalash were (or are) also referred to as "unbelievers" because they were forcibly converted to Islam before the turn of the century. They build two-story houses and are considered master architects and wood carvers. We'd camp in this area for two nights, hopeful of seeing a festival or just getting a chance to interact with the Kalash people.
The Kalash women have relative social freedom compared to the Muslim culture in Pakistan. They often elope with another man even though married at the time. Wife-elopement is a "great custom" for them. Sure simplifies a messy divorce. And they obviously don't frown on contact between the sexes.
into the Kalash valley
Continue reading "Chitral and Into the Kalash Valley, Pakistan" »
The Shandur Pass, is the watershed between the valleys of Chitral in the Hindu Kush and Gilgit in the Karakoram. After viewing the underwhelming Polo Grounds, it was down the valley to Mastuj with cultivated fields. The upper Chitral valley was spectacular with its dry geology, glaciers, peaks and the blue sky. Mastuj is located centrally in north Chitral, about 115km/50mi from Chitral town. It lies at the left bank of Mastuj River and an old fort is located in this broad valley. (Mastuj formally became a part of Chitral in 1895.) We stopped in town to walk around for a bit and got such venomous looks from the local tribesmen walking the streets (AK-47's strapped on) that Nigel thought it looked unsafe and hustled us back in the jeeps.
There were still long days left in this jeep safari trip and grumblings were arising that we spent all day in the jeeps with not much to see except scenery from the vehicle, got to campsites, camped, ate, went to sleep and got up the next morning only to repeat the same routine. Hopefully, the Kalash valley would be wonderful in a few days..
Welcome to Mastuj
Continue reading "Over Shandur Pass to Mastuj, Pakistan" »
The days were long...the nights not long enough...and you could see the pounds falling off everyone in the group. Poor Len's boys went to ex-Marine one day and asked..."Steve, I know you'll tell us the truth. When are we going to get good food?" Steve's response, "Where are you going from here?" "China and then Hong Kong." "Well, it's not going to be until Hong Kong." I was already counting the days until I got on the Singapore Airlines flight home. A sad commentary when you start looking forward to airline food!
One day on our way to who knows where, we came across a major road-building project. It didn't make any difference if you were a semi-truck, government official or jeep...you weren't going anywhere until who knows when. What can you do but go with the flow. Nigel and Aslam set to work and settled us in at the road building camp for the duration... Borrowed charpoys (a light bed or cot, common in India and Pakistan) from the crew and we all stretched out in the shade to wait out the blasting and building...
Pakistani road building
Continue reading "Pakistan Road Blocks and Landslides Along The Way" »
We drove along the Gilgit river from Gupis on another barely passable road (what else is new). More of the same...crippled, hunched over, eating pistachios and relieving ourselves behind buses and rocks. An entire day of this with not too much scenery to reward us. It's difficult to relate what the journey was like without you being there. Dealing with the dirt and dust...at times, jeep tires only inches from an abyss...the heart-stopping moments when another jeep appeared coming towards us on this same trail....
Pulling up to Phander Lake, we stared in amazement at the so-called camping spot for tonight. It was almost entirely under water. Margie and I looked at each...ex-Marine and Sue looked at each other...we stood on the squishy, marshy camping spot and waited to see what was going to happen. Aslam and Nigel had a fast conference, it was back into the jeeps and we all drove further up the valley.
flooded campsite
Continue reading "Gulpis to Phander Lake to Shandur Pass, Pakistan" »
The valleys of Northwest Pakistan are very remote - blocked by snow most of the year, and hemmed in by the Hindukush Mountains. This province is the smallest in size of the four provinces in Pakistan. Our first stop was going to be Chitral, an area where the desert meets the mountains. The culture is conservative Islamic due to its proximity to Afghanistan and contrasts considerably with the urban cities of Pakistan as well as the adjacent district of Gilgit.
We would be camping most nights during the Jeep Safari (oh...happy day...) due to the lack of decent accommodations. Not even first class, just decent... In the jeeps on roads only one-jeep wide with major hair-pin turns, we drove along the Indus River for a bit. (Margie and Art are also Class V rafters and gave their opinion that these sections of the Indus were unnavigable.) Suddenly before us was a very long suspension bridge span across the Indus...again, one jeep-wide. Naive me took one look and again said..."We're not crossing that are we?" What do you think? Of course, we were going to cross it.
confluence of two rivers with a normal bridge
Continue reading "The Northwest Frontier Province of Pakistan" »
The weather went from one extreme to another. Broiling heat to very cool with mist. The jackets and hats finally came out of our packs and we prepared for this very long day and downhill. Downhills are always bad on the knees and I just hoped I had some left after the 1,200-1,600m/4,000-5,000' elevation drop. With porters on either side of teenager with sprained ankle for support, and Irene stopping every now and then to get sick in a shrub, we started down...and down...and down....
Aslam hired a shepherd to guide the way since this trek was still an "exploratory." I don't remember the downhill being difficult...just interminable. We thought it would never end. Through some pine forests and wildflowers, watching our step at all times...down...down...down...for hours.
porters in the mist
Continue reading "Hunza Trek Over and Gilgit, Pakistan" »
Victory was ours...at long last, a wide-open plateau at the top with a small stream running through the campsite. We immediately collapsed by the stream, took off boots and soaked very hot and tired feet in the ice cold water. On the other side of the valley were the magnificent snow-capped peaks as far as we could see. Rakaposhi, the Pasu Towers, Gulmit Valley and Gulkin Glacier.
Up to now, Doc Margie had little to do other than deal with our various aches and altitude sickness. She would hold an open medical call every morning for the porters. It was always unclear as to whether or not there was something wrong with them or the porters were just eager to be examined by a lady doctor. But today, that changed. Len's two teenagers got into a "jumping the stream contest" with the porters and one of them immediately sprained his ankle. This was going to make going down the next day tough. Even though it took three full days to gain all this elevation, the downhill was going to be done in one day. Over a 1,200m/4,000+ foot drop. But before that, we had a day to veg out on this gorgeous plateau admiring the views, reading and relaxing.
cooling feet in the stream on the plateau
Continue reading "On The Plateau In Hunza, Pakistan" »
A new morning...new day...followed by a so-so breakfast which included exploding eggs. Yes, exploding eggs! ex-Marine went to toss Sue a hard-boiled egg at the other end of the table and it exploded mid-air. I supposed we shouldn't have been surprised but this was a first for one and all. In the daylight, I looked around me at all the rocks and steep terrain with a huge avalanche chute directly in front of us. Naively I laughed..."We're not going up there are we, Aslam?" "Yes, we are." Struck dumb, I just looked at husband in terror.
Camp struck, the porters led the way, once again hauling us up the avalanche chute by the arms when the boulders were too big to climb up on by ourselves. Every now and then a dislodged rock would crash down by us. All you could hear was - heavy breathing...."I need help"..."watch out...rocks coming down"...and every now and then, Irene and/or Len puking behind a rock from the altitude. More fun.
avalanche chute
Continue reading "Continuing Up The Mountains In Hunza, Pakistan" »
Veterans of many treks, ex-Marine and I expected to be hiking up actual dirt and stony trails used for many years by the locals and shepherds throughout Hunza. This was not the case. Aslam would lead the group straight up the mountain... over grass, huge boulders, across raging rivers, etc. This was an "exploratory" trek and he led us wherever he thought fit.
Straight up a gorge with a stream gushing down filled with boulders 3-5 feet tall as a path. The only way I could make it was to be hauled up by the arms. (It was a good thing this was before my rotator cuff tear!) At other times, the porters built a make-shift bridge over rushing streams by moving small logs and/or rocks. Tala, tala (slowly, slowly), we inched our way up in the heat to the first campsite and waited eagerly for dinner...starving to death.
Sue and porters
Continue reading "One Chicken For 12 People - In Pakistan" »
It was interesting having some time to walk around Karimabad, visiting the homes of Hunzakuts, meeting the locals and making a valiant attempt to do a little shopping. At one time, the local people made bullets out of Amythest and other gems and we found some to buy at a local shop. What an interesting curiousity. Irene's luggage still hadn't caught up to her and it was time to buy another shalwar kameez while everyone in the group pitched it with extra clothing to help out. Again, she had fortunately worn her hiking boots on the plane...the most important item for any hike/trek. If her luggage did ever show up now, Irene wouldn't have access to it for another week minimum.
Hunza is a land of almonds and apricot orchards on the hillside and villages of mud and stone huts. There were always smiles and hospitality in this Ismaili area. (Ismaili is a more liberal form of Islam.) The area had its own stark beauty. Dry and arid with pockets of greenery, flowers and tasty apricots...
flowers
Continue reading "Ahmedabad, The Trailhead for Our Hunza Trek - Pakistan" »
Today was going to be an unusual, cultural experience in Karimabad. A local Shaman was going to put himself into a trance. Now this was a big occasion. The entire village gathered together and the "festivities" started with some dancing by Len's boys. From there, we progressed to Hunzakut drumming, flute playing, etc. Aslam filled us in on some of the gory goings-on during this ceremony to prepare our Western sensibilities. Always skeptical, I thought...yeah, yeah.
There is a long shamanistic tradition in many parts of the world. (We recently witnessed a big ceremony in China...watch for coming articles and video.) Shamans are religious specialists who are also animists. Animists believe spirits inhabit natural objects and phenomena. Shamans (also known as "Witch Doctors") are the focal point of each village and use their magic to cure illness, foretell the future, and control the spirits by conversing with them while in a trance.
Mason and Jarrett with their version of the "Shaman Dance"
Continue reading "A Shaman Experience in Karimabad, Pakistan" »
Today's hike would be to the base of Ultar Peak. It is always recommended to take a guide in unfamiliar mountains but we had no worries with our trusty guide, Aslam. Ultar peak is 7,500m/24,500' high but we were just hiking to the base of it. First past the 600-700 year-old (depends who you ask) Baltit Fort high above Karimabad with a stop for photographs. The Baltit Fort is a Hunza landmark. Built on massive stilt legs, the windows look out over the valley. Originally, it was used as the residence of the Mirs (rulers) of Hunza.
Aslam (our local guide) gave a lecture on walking/trekking/hiking safety that we've followed to this day.
- Watch the trail before your feet at all times.
- If you want to look at your surroundings, adjust your clothes, pull something out of your pack...STOP. It would be easy to walk off the trail or trip.
- Keep your eyes front and down. When the head goes up, the feet stop.
Extremely important advice.
a boulder field
Continue reading "Another Day, Another Hike To Ultar Peak, Hunza, Pakistan" »
Karimabad is the capitol of Hunza in Northern Areas, Pakistan. Karimabad is also known as Baltit. There were great views of Rakaposhi 7,788m/25,551' and as well as views of Ulter Peak 1 and 2, Ladyfinger 6,000m/19,685', Daran Peak and Golden Peak. Baltit Fort stood above us in Karimbad and Altit Fort lay at the bottom of the valley in the village of Altit, about 3km/1.8miles from Karimabad. It was built on a sheer rock-cliff that falls 300m/1000'.
Again, the Hunza Valley is believed to be the inspiration for the mythical valley of Shangri-la one of almost everybody's favorite stories. Unfortunately, there really wasn't much to do in Karimabad. The men don't talk to the women...you can only talk to the women if no one else is around...and that left the children who followed us everywhere, watching our every move intently.
Hunza children
Continue reading "A Day Hike In The Hunza Valley, Pakistan" »
Hunza is one of the most remote regions of the subcontinent, an area with glaciers, 20,000' high peaks and connected to the outside world by footpaths and some tracks. A population of around 35,000, the Hunza people are subsistence farmers. Each family owns at least one plot of land and the food they grow is the food they eat. There is rarely a surplus to sell or trade. Apricots are one of the important crops in Hunza. They are eaten fresh and dried and the kernel is crushed to produce cooking oil. Drying Apricots on rocks along the roads were one of the most colorful sights in Pakistan. Since the Khunjerab Pass opened, tourism has become (or had become) a big source of cash for Hunza.
It is said that Hunza inspired James Hilton's novel, Lost Horizon because when the British first explored this area at the end of the 19th century, they were astonished to meet people who claimed to be more than 120 years old. (These cute children are definitely not 120 years old...)
local Karimabad children
Continue reading "Three Days Exploring Hunza, Pakistan" »
Double bad news this morning. Irene's luggage still hadn't arrived. Fortunately, she wore hiking boots on the plane (always advisable) but this meant a fast trip to the local market to buy Irene some clothes, primarily shalwar kameez's. (Of course, Singapore Air assured her that the luggage would materialize tomorrow....not!) Every tour operator recommends you wear boots on the plane, or carry them with you. Boots are irreplaceable on a trek. And, we would have to drive the 17 hours over two days because our flight was cancelled (or delayed).
Luggage put on the mini-bus, we headed North on the famous Karakoram Highway (KKH), the highest paved international road in the world. The Highway connects China and Pakistan through the Khunjerab Pass at an altitude of 4,877 meters/16,002 feet.
group tour bus
Continue reading "Chilas, On The Way To Karimabad, Pakistan" »
Singapore Airlines was then, and still is, the most high-rated airline in the world. What a joy to fly Business Class with them, worth every penny. Arriving in Karachi, the group was met by a representative of Wilderness Travel. He was waiting outside the customs area with a sign and had our Pakistan Airline tickets for the continuing flight to Islamabad.
Almost everyone in our group had also used Singapore Airlaines since they lived on the West Coast. Irene - Seattle, Susan - San Francisco area, trip doctor Margie with husband, Art - Los Angeles, us two lone Midwesterners again, and Wilderness Travel had added a photographer at the last minute, Paul from New York. Len with sons Mason and Jarrett, from Miami and Nigel - trip leader, Berkeley would meet us in Islamabad. First glitch, Singapore Airlines lost Irene's luggage! With promises from them that it would surface tomorrow, we all got on the plane and flew to Islamabad where the agent there transferred everyone to the Pearl-Continental Hotel, Rawalpindi.
Continue reading "Arriving in Karachi, Pakistan" »
Air ? This was the one and only time that we've ever purchased a Business Class ticket on any airline. Singapore Airlines had a Business Class fare that wasn't completely crazy (after all, who goes to Pakistan) and we jumped on it, flying American Airlines Chicago-Los Angeles, Singapore Airlines LA-Singapore and then continued on from Singapore-Karachi, Pakistan...still on Singapore Airlines. I won't bother giving too many details on flying to Pakistan in 2007 because it isn't exactly on the top 10 destinations right now.
Visas? Had to get a single-entry Pakistan visa. We used Zierer Visa Service for this one. If you actually want to visit now and perhaps make an assault on K-2 or for any other reason, visit Government of Pakistan website for complete information.
Hotels? Only one hotel was necessary in Singapore. We decided to break this extremely long journey by spending two nights there eating good food, and staying in a nice hotel before braving the rigors of Pakistan.
Pakistan map
Continue reading "Planning The Pakistan Adventure" »
Avidly reading a Wilderness Travel catalog in 1994, I came across a trip that sounded exotic and unusual. A Hunza/Karakoram 25-day overland adventure in Pakistan with moderate to rigorous hiking. If you have been following ex-Marine's (husband, Steve) and my adventures, you should know by now that I am a "glass is half-full" type of person and enjoy third world countries. Always up for something new and different unlike ex-Marine husband who would have preferred a resort stay with a swimming pool.
The more I read, the more intriguing the trip became. A 7-day trek into the Hunza Valley offering views over the entire Hunza area, Northwest frontier of the Karakoram and mountain peaks over 6,000m/20,000'. Following the trek, we'd explore the Northwest Frontier in depth on a rigorous jeep safari from Gilgit to Chitral, Swat, Peshawar and the Khyber Pass - the Hindukush Mountains with chances to meet traditional people.
Continue reading "A Hunza/Karakoram Odyssey in Pakistan" »
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