One Last Huli Village and Back To Civilization in Papua New Guinea
Huli boys are removed from their mother's household at a young age and handed over to the father. He progresses to full manhood with many ceremonies along the way, culminating in the "bachelor's ritual" in his late teens. (I was definitely afraid to ask what that ritual consisted of and decided to use my imagination.) Only then are they allowed: a. to have sexual relations with women; and b. wear and decorate their own red wig. The wigs are also trimmed with cuscus fur (a possum-like nocturnal marsupials) and cassowary plumes (a large flightless, bird).
Today's village would show us some of their other traditions and way of life, primarily governed by belief in ancestral spirits and sorcery. All village visits needed permission to enter and if the villagers asked that we bypass them for some reason, the guides had to comply. But, no problem today. No wars, no deaths, no stolen pigs, no need for privacy.
Yes, today was Huli skull day. Now, as to whether these skulls were enemy skulls, ancestors skulls, or skulls left over after a fine dining experience, I can't tell you. But they did repose, nicely decorated in a shrine, with various bones and sacred objects under them.
Papua New Guinea, hands-down, had to be the most unusual destination we have ever been to. A completely "out of the stone age" experience and we've been told that Irian Jaya is even more primitive! So hard to believe...
....but it was all over. One last little plane from Tari back to Port Moresby...with the women selling billum bags at the airport...
Back in Port Moresby, our guide took us on one last shopping excursion to this huge warehouse, PNG Arts to look at more primitive art. An overwelming amount of goods but I had decided that a few more items were needed before leaving New Guinea. That was our only stop and then we flew out.
Papua New Guinea is one destination that I can't recommend for everyone, and there are a few musts:
- It must be done with a tour operator like Trans Nuigini. Don't even think of going it alone!
- You must go with an open mind and be able to mentally adjust to this surreal experience.
It is no wonder that New Guinea art is collected by Museums, primitive art devotees and others around the world. Each piece was unique. Bows and Arrows, spears, pottery cooking pots, masks, woven goods, cult hooks, drums, etc. Other than the art, it isn't often that we get a chance to be dropped into an existence completely unlike ours. If you are up for it (and, even if you don't think you would enjoy it), visit. Take yourself out of a complacent, comfort-zone and experience a land that time has forgotten.
Where else in the world do you land at a little airport and see a warrior waiting to greet someone? Prepared for one of the most outlandish and unusual experiences of your life...just stay away from stealing pigs!
