On The Plateau In Hunza, Pakistan
Victory was ours...at long last, a wide-open plateau at the top with a small stream running through the campsite. We immediately collapsed by the stream, took off boots and soaked very hot and tired feet in the ice cold water. On the other side of the valley were the magnificent snow-capped peaks as far as we could see. Rakaposhi, the Pasu Towers, Gulmit Valley and Gulkin Glacier.
Up to now, Doc Margie had little to do other than deal with our various aches and altitude sickness. She would hold an open medical call every morning for the porters. It was always unclear as to whether or not there was something wrong with them or the porters were just eager to be examined by a lady doctor. But today, that changed. Len's two teenagers got into a "jumping the stream contest" with the porters and one of them immediately sprained his ankle. This was going to make going down the next day tough. Even though it took three full days to gain all this elevation, the downhill was going to be done in one day. Over a 1,200m/4,000+ foot drop. But before that, we had a day to veg out on this gorgeous plateau admiring the views, reading and relaxing.
The plateau and campsite were truly beautiful. One of the most gorgeous areas we'd ever seen. If there had only been somewhere on the plateau (other than hiding under one of the few rocks) to enjoy the scenery without the heat incinerating your brain and body.
Tonight's end of trek dinner was going to be a gala with fresh roasted lamb, being slaughtered over by the cook's tent. None of us watched the lamb's demise but I did see the back end of the lamb ready to be barbequed. I am not a vegetarian by any stretch of the imagination but the cook was so bad that it would be miraculous if there was any taste to this dinner.
Irene and Len still had altitude sickness and were busy upchucking through most of the trek. Len, being the macho sort, wouldn't admit it and said he felt fine. Then he'd sneak off and we'd hear him becoming ill. He was also the only one who didn't bring any candy or goodies with him. His poor sons grew thinner and thinner by the day. It reminded Steve and myself about another trek with Gary from Los Angeles. Gary had a grab bag for his teenagers every Christmas and in the bag was a piece of paper with an "X" on it. The lucky one who picked the "X" would accompany Gary on one of his trips the next year. Gary said each child would say fervant prayers NOT to be the one who was "lucky" enough to go on a trip like this. After this trip with Dad (Len), I bet his boys felt the same way. "Please not me...please, please...not me."
At night from this high vantage point, we could see and watch the headlights on the Karakoram Highway in the distance with its flow of traffic between China and Pakistan. The stars were incredible and the views stupendous... The plateau almost made this trip worthwhile...
