I've gone into a lot of detail about the Annapurna Sanctuary trek because it's important to know all this information if you've never trekked before or want to trek in this area. There are almost too many tour operators to list plus almost every guide runs their own operation on the side. Before booking with your adorable, knowledgeable guide, ask yourself - what if he becomes ill or just disappears in the mountains with your money? It can happen. We've used Adventure Center (see side box) for over 15 trips including this one. They are the hand-off for many relatively inexpensive tour operators around the world (Exodus, Explore, Imaginative Traveller, Dragoman, Geckos, Peregrine). Trekking - bicycling - cultural - overland trips - volunteer. Singles, couples, gays...you'll all feel comfortable. And, without a doubt, these organizers visit every "safe" country in the world. Remember, I never recommend anyone I haven't used and am satisfied with! Request a catalog. Look at their offerings. Book a trip.
- Remember, a "B" grade trek is not the same around the world. A "B" in Nepal could be considered a "C" somwhere else.
- Bring "gently" used old clothes to leave behind. Not just here but everywhere. There is always someone who will think your cast-offs are wonderful.
- Talk to someone who has already done this trek for a better understanding. (We didn't...)
- Pack everything in plastic (trash) bags inside your duffels and/or suitcases.
- April is the most beautiful time of the year to trek in Nepal. The pink, red and white Rhododendrons are incredible against the greenery and snow-capped mountains.
Handshakes, hugs and goodbyes to the staff en route to Pokhara while we drove on to the Moonlight Resort, staying for one night only. The Moonlight Resort was luxurious after spending two weeks in teahouses. A Western toilet, bathtub BUT...the sink water just ran out the bottom of the sink on the floor...no pipes. It's always a surprise when you turn on the tap and suddenly feel water on your feet...
There was time to walk around Pokhara set in a valley at the foot of the Machapuchhre with spectacular views of the mountains from everywhere. It was quite different from Kathmandu. There were some interesting short walks, bicycle rides, you could swim and canoe on Lake Phewa or relax. Our choice. Along the lakeside road was a continuous stretch of small hotels, restaurants, massage parlors and shops (seriously bargain) with a hippy feeling....
Last night, the group ate dinner with the staff and distributed tips to them. Sherpas get 4,500 Rupees and Porters, 3,250 Rupees each. This would be our last night with the staff since they would catch a public bus from Pokhara back to Kathmandu. Vimal explained the pecking order of tipping and pre-ordered dinner, Dal. Dal is a typically Nepali and Indian dish consisting of lentils or chickpeas, rice, potatoes and some vegetables. Dal is not one of our favorites but it was only for one night. Vimal also asked everyone to eat Nepali style, with fingers.
After dinner, the tip envelopes were distributed to the staff, everyone in the group taking turns to present to their Porter or Sherpa. I presented to Purna and ex-Marine gave his envelope to Lila with extremely heartfelt thanks for all the hard work. Running back and forth between the kitchens and dining areas in all the teahouses, carrying the 40# duffels over the same terrain as us...up and down those killer steps...the smiles...singing...for adding ex-Marine's and my backpacks to their already heavy loads...with never a complaint. How could we adequately express our thanks for everything they did.... After that, time for singing and dancing. Steve and I were completely exhausted and went to bed.
A statistic - The average age of a Nepali women is 56...a man, 57. Nepal is one of the few countries in the world where women die before men. Probably because they do all the hard work. Today will be the last full day of trekking but again, a very long day of approximately 7 hours. We were supposed to only go as far as Pothana but Vimal has had problems in this area on his last few treks and wants to continue past Pothana to Dhampus. (Not quite sure exactly what the problems were.)
Breakfast with my favorite banana pancake rolled like a crepe around lots of bananas, and plenty of "trekking honey" poured over. Off ex-Marine and I went with Lila in the lead before the group left. We're so slow that they have no problem catching and passing us. A long, steep downhill to the river and along the other side for a bit.
Absolutely nothing dried last night and we dug dirty but dry socks out of the duffels to wear. The socks from yesterday were still dripping. If we survive this trip, we'll be in fantastic shape. Bamboo, at 2,500m/8,200' altitude, was as cold as the Sanctuary. The day could possibly be another 7-1/2 hours with some uphills and primarily downhills to Jhinu at 1,750m/5,741' but at least the sun is shining again.
Leaving at 8:00 am, it was uphill for the first two hours, a tea stop at Sinuwa. I was carrying my own backpack until then but was so exhausted from yesterday and struggling to put one foot in front of the other. When Lila offered to carry my back along with Steve's (ex-Marine), I hesitated. ex-Marine let loose with a long stream of swear words, basically calling me a stubborn m-f, and telling me to give Lila the g-damned pack. Okay, then. (When I eat candy for energy, you know I'm running on empty...View image) From Sinuwa downhill to the river was my favorite trail of the day. Fairly gentle, winding, with slate steps closer together which meant portions felt like walking down a staircase rather than climbing down a staircase.
Trekking Day 9: Annapurna Base Camp to Bamboo, Nepal
Not only did it thunder, rain and lightening most of the night but also snowed up a major storm. Wake-up knocks on the door at 5:30 am. Not that anyone was asleep. Between the thin walls (you could hear every creak, snore and conversation on both sides) and the cold (I wore Gore-tex pants, fleece and long underwear to bed), we were up. A walk to the pit toilets in a blinding snowstorm. You couldn't even see the mountains and we'd have to go downhill in this. Over 1,500m/5,000 feet downhill in one day. This would be difficult under the best conditions and with upwards of 4" of snow covering rocks and ice, it would be brutal.
TIP: We've learned to put our clothes in the foot of the sleeping bag at night so you don't have to put on freezing clothes in the morning.
The only two people ecstatic about the snow were -- Hugh and Isla -- who promptly had a snowball fight. I was not happy. Who knows how long it was going to take us to get down safely.
With everyone at the Camp and assigned rooms, we all gathered in the dining room for lunch, to rehash the trek up, and bubble over with enthusiasm. Hot soup hit the spot and Vimal was going to take those who wanted out for another hike after lunch. Not me...I'd had enough hiking for a lifetime. He pointed out the route behind the dining room up to a ridge for more wonderful views of Advanced Annapurna Base Camp. I looked. That was a scree mountain. That would have settled it if I had planned on going. I hate scree (loose rock debris on a slope).
FYI: You can do the entire Annapurna Sanctuary Trek for yourself or hire guides and porters in Pokhara or Kathmandu. BUT....there is no guarantee that you'll find anyplace to stay. Big competition for the few teahouse/lodges along this extremely popular tour. We saw two young people hiking up to Machapuchhre Base Camp yesterday only to be turned away and have to hike back down to Bamboo. Base Camp was completely booked and all the Sherpas/Porters traditionally sleep in the communal dining area...no room even there. If you tent it...no problem.
Trekking Day 8: Machapuchhre Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp - Nepal
Huddled around the dining room table last night, our Sherpas and Porters entertained us with a trekking song involving lots of hand motions. They are all so sweet and work so hard. I can barely keep my eyes open and they are busy serving us, smiling and singing after carrying 40# loads and our backpacks up the mountain during the day.
Today is the pinnacle...highlight...zenith...culmination...and crowning point...of the trek. Annapurna Base Camp. We'll have to leave by 8:30 am for this last push up from Machapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) 3,600m/11,811' to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) 4,100m/13,451'. The highest altitude in this trip. But first, the daily struggle to put in contact lenses with no light. All of you perfect vision people just don't appreciate perfect sight! Followed by the line in front of the smelly, squat toilets. Even with all the drawbacks, I still prefer teahouses/lodges to a tent.
Trekking Day 7: The Push To Machapuchhre Base Camp - Nepal
Notes to self. TRY and remember that a "B" hike in Peru...is not a "B" in Nepal...is not a "B" in Ladakh...is not a "B" in Europe. The rating refers ONLY to that specific country! Why do I keep forgetting this all-important piece of information? Why did I think that the Annapurna Sanctuary trek graded "B" in Nepal would be easy? Our only saving grace is the ability to walk very slowly at the back of the pack. Stamina, from all the years of exercise, and mental tenacity are the other two reasons we're still upright, still moving and "not dead yet." (One of my favorite lines in Monty Python & The Holy Grail ..."bring out your dead...but I'm not dead yet.")
Beside all the soft drinks, the entire group is living on carbohydrates. Pancakes, bread, cereals for breakfast...bowls of thick noodle soups, chapatis, french fries/chips, tuna pasta, pizza, small potatoes with cheese on top, rice, Dal (lentils), cheese toast...and let's not forget candy bars. Hardly any vegetables to be seen and no fruit. You can see the weight falling off. ex-Marine has lost his "Buddha-belly" and my pants are loose.
We broke one of the cardinal rules for traveling. If you wear glasses, take a spare pair. Didn't and last night one of ex-Marine's ear pieces broke off from metal fatigue. Fortunately, his sunglasses are prescription otherwise he'd be up the creek without a paddle. Even so, how do you use prescription sunglasses to see anything when it is pitch-black in your room? Impossible. Used our handy-dandy roll of duct tape to semi-attach the stem. And then...the other ear piece broke off. Duct-taped that one. This is going to be a daily routine duct-taping stems until we return home.
It was going to be another exhausting day from Chomrong to Doban, at 1,600m/5,429'. Powered up at breakfast with egg and onion omelets, chapatis and lots of coffee. Since the day we saw the egg man carrying his 2,000 eggs, we've been trying to eat more eggs. Doing our bit to help him. Chomrong is the village where the trail divides into two - those trekkers heading towards Annapurna Sanctuary, and those heading back down to Pokhara - and where we'll take the new trail returning from Sanctuary.
ex-Marine and his fashion statement duct-taped glasses
There would be approximately six hours of walking until reaching the trekking hub of Chomrong with an initial descent of at least three hours. Tadapani was located at an altitude of 2,600m/8,530' and this initial descent was 700m/2,000'+ until we'd climb up the other side. Descents are even harder on knees than uphills and everyone has a preference. You are either an "uphill" person or "downhill" person. Adri loves downhills and can run them with no problem, probably because she has great balance. I am an uphiller. Can manage to get up almost anything but have to pick my way down. The "usual" sunrise on Machapuchhre with its twin fish-tail peak, and breakfast. Vimal said there would be a good chance of leeches when we lost altitude. Oh Happy Day!
Most of our group were on lengthy trips throughout the world and did laundry each night, hanging the wet clothes on clotheslines to dry. Dry? Almost never and was usually hung off a backpack for drying en route. ex-Marine and I subscribe to the theory: bring as many old articles of clothing possible and toss along the way. Someone can always use the clothes and we don't have to launder them. Each T-shirt was a two-day wear and it was exciting to pass them on to one of our Porters and/or Sherpas. Even our very old Gore-tex and fleece jackets were promised to Purna, Lila and Rachmat for trek end.
Leaving Deurali on a long ridge walk, we then did a three-hour descent through a jungly forest. ex-Marine and I are still the last ones and Vimal filled the long hours with information about Nepal and its people:
- Porters earn anywhere from $5-$15 a day and are very proud of their work.
- We saw a Kingfisher and vulture - not together.
- No yaks in this area because we are too low.
- "Jum-jum" means "let's go" in Nepali.
- Machapuchhre is a holy mountain and illegal to climb.
This forest had moss-covered trees, thick foliage and liana vines hanging down. We followed along a river with prayer flags and vivid yellow stones in the water, crossed little bridges, and gawked at waterfalls for hours. Lila is still carrying ex-Marine's backpack. A bonus for being a 67-year old and still able to trek. Don't worry...we intend on taking good care of Lila when the trek is over, when the Rupees dry out, and if we survive...
Trekking Day 4: Ghorepani to Deurali, Tea Break - Nepal
Early in the morning, the noisy group got ready to hike up Poon Hill and watch the sunrise on the Himalayas. At least they hoped there would be a wonderful sunrise. Warm clothes, torches/flashlights because the first hour would be in the dark. Vimal said many travellers consider this to be one of the main highlights of the trip. Highlight or no highlight, ex-Marine, Anna and I weren't going. This would just be added to the list of "highlights" missed during my life. ex-Marine slept (he sleeps through everything) while I pulled pack the thin curtains on our corner room windows to watch sunrise from here. And, a brilliant sunrise it was!
They came back to Ghorepani for breakfast with raves about the sunrise, and stories of all the other trekkers gathered on top of this one hill...freezing and waiting. Outside the windows, the sun continued lighting up the Dhaulgiri Massif and Annapurna. I think everyone is becoming a little blase over the incredible sights since no one ran for cameras...instead, there is a massive concentration on breakfast...and eating...
At dinner, Vimal tells everyone that tomorrow's hike to Ghorepani will be 1-1/2 hours longer. All I know is today was one of the hardest first-days-on-trek we've ever been on. Heat and those unrelenting stone steps and uphills. Eight hours of uphill to be exact. Adri is a Dietician, working in Scotland, originally from South Africa. We're going to follow her advice for the rest of the trip and eat carbos...carbos...and more carbos. To hell with Atkins, South Beach and every other diet recommendation. It also helps that there is very little fruit and vegetables to even be had at this altitude. Everything must be carried in.
There are definite advantages being slow and the last people on this trek. Vimal fills us with all kinds of information. "Gora" means house - "Pani" means water, together Ghorepani. That's our destination tomorrow. Ghorepani (2850m/9,000'+) is a busy trekking village and is supposed to have incredible view of Annapurna South. In spring, the views would be even better with flowering Rhododendron bushes.
Lunch somewhere, usually vegetable, tomato or noodle soup. Fast and liquidy. Vimal imparted new information. Every day, one of our Sherpas would leave at the crack of dawn for the night's destination to secure lodging. High demand for whatever was available. Though Imaginative Traveller had good working relationships with these places, they still may give away your reserved rooms to first-come, first-serve. So...we may not stay in Banthati tonight if there is "no room at the inn" but stop an hour short of Banthati and stay in Ulleri. If that happens, tack on an extra hour of hiking tomorrow. Is that good news or bad news?
The Imaginative Traveller dossier said in today's description..."Even though there was an ascent involved, Ulleri Hill, it went by fast with the Annapurnas always in view"... Who are they kidding? What copywriter had a needle stuck in his arm while writing this? There were hundreds of stone steps, boulders, continually going up, never going by fast. Sweat pouring off in buckets, breathing labored...everyone toiled up one after another under a broiling sun with no shade in sight...
An average cost for breakfast would be: a double cheese omelet-80 Rupees; chapati-35 Rupees; banana pancake-95 Rupees; and small pot of black coffee-170 Rupees. About $5.00 U.S. for two people. A lot of shouting at breakfast to make sure everyone got what they ordered... Omelet? Cheese Omelet? That's mine. Meusli with apples? Over here. Tea? Coffee? Milk? And the dishes come out one by one... After breakfast, Vimal would collect the money you owed for both dinner the previous night and today's breakfast. Banana pancakes quickly became my favorite breakfast, never prepared in the same manner. Bananas inside the pancake...bananas on top of the pancake...bananas rolled inside a pancake-like crepe...one day, an extremely doughy pancake, the worst of them all.
We're also starting to put faces and names together. Kelley and Sion from New Zealand, traveling around the world for months. Lyn and Dean from Bristol. James is from the U.K. but works in Scotland doing rigging in a theater. Hugh and Isla, friends from Australia....Kathy and Thea from South Africa...
Trekking Day 1: Annapurna Sanctuary Trailhead to Birethanti, Nepal
The bus stopped on the road at the riverside village of Birethanti. Birethanti is a very picturesque village situated on the edge of the river with great views of Machapuchhre (Fish Tail Mountain). The best mountain views are always in the early morning and evening before clouds obstruct the views. Some Annapurna Sanctuary treks do an identical out-and-back. We would take this route through Chomrong up to Annapurna Base Camp and divert at Chomrong on the way down, ending in Phedi. Birethanti is very low in altitude, 1,000m/3,200'. A good beginning with little worries about altitude sickness. Even though this was considered Trekking Day 1, we'd only have around a half-hour walk on flat ground through village to get to our Birethanti lodging for tonight. A snap.
Our Porters and Sherpas were waiting for the bus...View image...and immediately started unloading and weighing the duffles (by lifting in their hands) to decide who was going to carry what.
Today started with an early departure for the Kathmandu Airport and an 8:30 am flight to Pokhara. The group would have breakfast in Pokhara and then have a 1-1/2 hour bus ride to the trek trailhead where we'd meet our Sherpas ad Porters.
Kathmandu Domestic Terminal was an absolutely madhouse. Filled with small planes flying to Lukla, Pokhara, Mount Everest sightseeing and other destinations within Nepal. Trekkers, hikers, sightseers, mountain expeditions, all in lines with duffels, gear and supplies. Incredible chaos. Our Yeti Airlines flight would only take 1/2 hour and the right side of the plane was the place to sit. Two seats on the right side, one seat on the left, and it probably never flew above 15,000'. A frightening scene going through security. A western women passed out in the security line. They revived her but then she upchucked all over the floor in the waiting area. Sure hope that her tour leader was wise enough NOT to allow her to proceed with their group trek.
A fast walk and back to the hotel for "meet and greet." Vimal Thapa (a Nepali) will be head guide for the 17 people in the group with support from Sherpas and Porters who will join us at the trailhead. Introductions all around but impossible to remember everyone's name...that will take a few days. ex-Marine and I are the token Americans, three South Africans, two from New Zealand, two Aussies, and the rest from the U.K. Almost half are 50+ with ex-Marine and I the oldest, the remainder scattered between mid-20's through the 40's, more women than men, everyone ready to trek.
Some of Vimal's important information:
- Expect lots of rain and leeches...(Oh my God...not leeches again)...
- Everyone must reconfirm their onward airline tickets (even though Jet Airways had assured us we didn't have to). Without a stamp on the ticket, you are almost guaranteed to be bumped.
- Buddha Air has Mount Everest flights every morning (weather permitting). The cost is $135, pay dollars now, if you want to do this. We didn't. Been there...done it.
Arrival at Kathmandu's very crowded airport. It didn't take too long to get Visas on arrival. Fill out forms, stand in the proper line with $30 US and two passport-sized photos in hand, pay and you are done. Met by The Imaginative Traveller personnel, transferred by mini-vans into Kathmandu to our hotel, Hotel Marshyangdi in the heart of the Thamel area.
Notice posted on the bulletin board that Vimal (our guide) would meet the group later today for introductions and information. The Marshyangi looked pretty good for a budget-trip hotel. Then we found out that we were in the annex...the old, "bad" section of the hotel on the 4th floor. Fortunately, there was a bellman to schlep the bags up for us. No air-conditioning, and one of those bathrooms with an unenclosed shower that gets the entire room sopping wet when you shower. In other words, a typical budget hotel. The air-conditioning normally wouldn't be a problem, but it was HOT in Kathmandu for this time of year. A lot hotter than we expected. Again...global warming.
On The Way to Kathmandu, Nepal Via Singapore and Delhi
It took days to actually get to Kathmandu. A 14-1/2 hour non-stop United flight from Chicago to Hong Kong, four hour layover, three more air hours to Singapore for a one-night stay. It was impossible to do the entire journey, Chicago-Kathmandu in two days without misconnecting somewhere, ergo, one night in Singapore. (Read some of my prior entries, Visiting Singapore for more details on Singapore.)
This time, we stayed at Le Meridien Hotel, in the heart of Orchard Road and all the shopping malls. Feeling good after a fast seven-hour deep sleep, it was time for breakfast and time to experiment with the MRT, Singapore's super fast and clean transportation system. Give public transportation a try in countries that are safe and clean. It isn't necessary to spend a fortune on taxi's...
The "Annapurna Sanctuary" started and ended in Kathmandu, Nepal and there were many choices to be made.
Air? We flew United, Chicago to Singapore, turned in miles to fly Singapore Airlines from Singapore to Delhi and then bought /Jet Airways tickets to fly from Delhi to Kathmandu. Tip: We chose the India to Kathmandu route this time instead of the Bangkok to Kathmandu for two reasons.
- The Bangkok-Kathmandu flight on Thai Airways was extremely expensive. It was cheaper to fly Jet Airways from Delhi-Kathmandu; and
- We used United air miles to fly free from Singapore-Delhi, minimizing the cost even further. There is an infinite number of airlines flying
