Mopti and Up The Niger River by Pinasse
Mopti is considered the "Venice of Africa" and was such an interesting town that an extra day here would have been perfect. It consists of three small islands linked by levees. Holidays off the Beaten Track
We had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Niger, watching the small boats pull up, cargo being unloaded and carried on people's heads, huge salt blocks on the embankment that had been brought by boat from Timbuktu , ...View image... sellers shouting up to us and showing their goods. Some of our group bought huge "Fulani Wedding Blankets" and long pieces of dyed blue material (worn by the Berbers/Tuaregs - the "Blue Men of the Desert") to wrap around their heads for the desert journey. Susan warned that the indigo dye was going to bleed all over our bodies until it was washed in some sort of mixture to set the dye...and it did. Blue foreheads for the next few days.
Mopti waterfront
Fishing, and trading in dried fish are important elements of the Mali economy. "Capitaine" fish was served quite often..a delicate, mild tasting fish similar to orange roughy. (I could never get a determination on what "Capitaine" fish really was.)
Between Djenne and Mopti we stopped at a great "souvenir" shop in Sevare, called Farafina (commonly known as "Baba's" by the Peace Corps). It was not only crammed with very unusual handicrafts, but Baba has a bead museum on the second floor with some very rare trading beads. No one got out without a major shopping spree. Our share of the buying was an old hand puppet, Falani wedding necklace made from lots of glass beads and so heavy that it would be impossible for me to wear, and a lobi wooden chair. Most people in West Africa, hand-carve their own chairs and carry them around (over their shoulders) every place they go. Probably better than sitting on the ground.
Each day (and night) seemed to get hotter and hotter (if that was possible) with only the early morning and late evening having reasonable temperatures. Everything we brought with that could melt...did melt....and that includes lipstick.
We floated up the Niger River for two days on a thatched-roof pinasse (boat).
My first thought on seeing the pinasse was..."We're going up the river in that? What do you do when you have to go to the bathroom? And where it it?" This is how you went to the bathroom. You ducked out from under the roof onto a narrow ledge that circled the boat...hanging on to the thatched roof for dear life...and slowly worked your way to the back of the boat. There, an "open to the sky but enclosed around your body" potty was rigged...a big hole open to the water. After finishing, you edged your way back to get inside the boat in the same way without falling into the Niger. This was a big "Catch 22"...it was important to drink lots of water to stay hydrated, but then you had to use the bathroom from drinking so much water. Ron (in our group) immediately fell off the boat into the Niger just trying to get on! You do not want to fall into the Niger. Roberto suggested he immediately start taking antibiotics for a week because it is such a slow moving, polluted river.
The water levels were very low (the rains begin in May) and every now and then, we'd get stuck on a sandbar. Everyone had to get off the pinasse into a passing boat while this very strong man "poled" the group to land. ... View image... In the meantime, the crew would rock or push the pinasse off the sand bar.
There was always something interesting to see along the river, the pinasse was comfortable, and we'd spend the day watching the river activity, dozing in the heat, while "ex-Marine" and Len joked about buying some riverfront property on the Niger! ...View image... . Both the Fulani (cattle herders) and Bozo tribes (fisherman live by the Niger. The women spent time sharing our favorite recipes. There was Jane's Peachy Chicken..... Margie's Chocolate Fudge Cake made with Pudding...and I contributed a scrumptious Raspberry Cheesecake recipe.
sights on the Niger
One night, we stopped for the night in the village of Niafounke, the home village of Ali Farka Toure, an important Malian folk singer. Other nights, we'd make camp alongside the Niger while our cook concocted dinner. Roberto also carried WINE and Liquor! It helped wash the sand out of our throats and added even more hilarity to the day's retelling of the many funny experiences...I'll never forget Ron falling off the pinasse!
