Lazy Days on The Sungai River in Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo)
A person could spend most of the day in the little cold shower run by generator...View image. Hotter than blazes during the day, it becomes surprisingly comfortable at night. ex-Marine kept muttering that the last time he stood still and sweated like this was during his Marine Corps stint in the Philippines, circa 1958, and, not to dwell on the heat (though I am), my backpack thermometer showed 90 degrees in the shade with not a wisp of air moving! Can't imagine what it is out in the sun. The captain, boatman, cook and Fery spoil us shamelessly. There is plenty of bottled water, soft drinks, snacks, tea and coffee available at any time of the day or night. Fery even tucks an extra bottle of water under the mosquito net in case one of us gets thirsty during the night.
Last night's excitement was a bat hovering around over the toilet, swooping around the little light bulb in the ceiling. ex-Marine was the first to discover the bat and urinated over the side of the boat rather than keep the bat company (the waste goes from the toilet into the river regardless), informed me and that settled that. I'd just have to hold it until dawn.
There were also loud splashing noises around the boat throughout the night. First one side and then the other, and it was probably a crocodile since they are found in this particular area of Tanjung Puting National Park. Was almost tempted to get up during the night and shine a flashlight to see if I could catch the crocodile's eyes, but didn't want to unwrap myself from all the mosquito netting.
A few tips and suggestions if you book this Borneo Discovery trip. Bring (and use) vats of mosquito repellent, sunscreen and wear boots. Many of the visitors just wore flip-flops, sandals into the forest, but it is muddy, slippery, there are poisonous snakes and plants, along with stinging fire ants. Walking to the platforms, Ferry would say, "Don't touch this...watch out for that..." We wore boots and then spent the time on deck barefoot.
Do not bathe in the Sungai Kumai River or Sungai Sekoyner River for different reasons. The first, because of mercury and the second, crocodiles! You may not see the crocodiles, but they are there and tourists have been killed.
Traveling by boat is very peaceful. Watching the locals paddle by, spotting bromeliads up in the trees...View image, lolling on deck with only the forest noises and river to keep you company.
However, if you opt for a little more "comfort," there are a few other choices. Either Rimba Lodge or a home stay. Fery arranged for us to visit both and here's the scoop. Rimba Lodge runs $90-170 U.S. a night with breakfast only. Price depends on whether you choose a standard or superior room. It's advisable to reserve 30 days in advance in season, Keep in mind that you will have to eat all your meals here since there is no other option. Next door to Rimba Lodge is the little Flora Home Stay (e-mail thomasbross@yahoo.com) with only three rooms and that was also ran around $90 U.S. a night again with breakfast only. Steve and I both loved the boat experience and would definitely recommend it, but you do need a teensy bit of adventure.
Beside Orangutan Reserve visits, you can hike through the forest, arrange a night walk to search for nocturnal animals and visit a village near the park. That's about it.
