Kharakhorum
It was a very long drive to Kharakhorum (7-8 hours). The "roads" (if they can be called that) in Mongolia are flat, hard earth. All the trucks and 4-wheel vehicles just make their own "roads" and the landscape is cross-crossed with lines of ruts going everywhere. Once is a while, there would be a traditional wagon.
And nomads, gathering wood. A very hard life.
Tip #1 - Take an inflatable seat cushion (or stadium cushion) when a trip requires lots of driving over non-existant roads. It makes the jolting a little bit easier on your back. This invaluable tip was given to me by a tour guide, years ago, before bumping over the miserable roads of Pakistan.
Kharakhorum, the 13th-century capital of the Mongol Empire, is a cultural highlight though only a few traces remain of this once great city. Neighboring Erdene Zuu, the country's largest monastery, was reputedly built from the city's ruins.
One of the more interesting parts of Kharakhorum were the Mongolian women sitting around, trying to sell bits and pieces of jewelry, and family Buddhist relicts to visitors. Hindsight, why didn't I buy more!
We overnited at a Ger camp. Gers are traditional felt tents, made of a latticed wood structure covered with layers of felt and canvas. Each Ger is heated by a wood stove and furnished with painted wood-framed beds. There was always a camp restaurant and western-style toilet and shower facilities in a central building a few hundred feet from the Gers. We always had our own, very roomy Ger even though each one could sleep 4-6 persons. The wood stove would be lit each evening (smoke went through a top hole - like a tepee) and candles would be brought in. On warm evenings, the top hole flap could be left open - and we'd lie on our beds - watching the stars.
Erdene Zuu was supposedly constructed from ruins of Kharakhorum in 167th century where Tibetan Buddhism was proclaimed as the state religion of Mongolia. Took time to wander around the monastery grounds and observe the monks.
Our group then drove to Jiguur Ger Camp at Tsenkher Sum hot springs to meet the camp crew, and get ready for trekking.
ex-Marine and fellow trekkers
Ready to go....
