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Kiyomizu Temple is known throughout Japan for the great views from its main hall. It was founded in 798 and rebuilt in 1633 by Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa shogun. Most visitors come for the views and grounds. A priest from Nara was told in a vision to... "Look for the clear water origin of the Yodo river" In a long search, he stumbled upon a place deep in the forest greenery where a mist, like a belt of white clouds, hung over a waterfall at the foot of Mt. Otowa." The temple is named for this waterfall on its grounds ("Kiyoi mizu" means pure water),.
This famous temple...View image was listed as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in December 1994 and is the main temple of the Hosso sect of Buddhism.
 Kiyomizu Temple
Continue reading "Kiyomizu Temple, Meiji Shrine and Sayonara, Japan" »
Two days in Kyoto would just about cover the highlights. The big ones are Nijo (Nijo-jo) Castle, Kyimozu Dera, the Golden Paviliion, Kinkaku-ji, and Ohara temples, leave time for wandering the quaint older area of Kyoto, and fill up the empty places in our stomachs with a substantial amount of food.
Kate took us to Nijo Castle (Nijo-jo), originally built in 1603 to be the official Kyoto residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun. It has been renamed several times and designated a historic relic. The castle consists of two rings of fortifications, Ninomaru Palace, Ninomaru Garden and an area surrounded by the inner moat of the castle.
 Nijo (Nijo-jo) Castle map
Continue reading "Touring Kyoto: Nijo Castle, Shopping and Sights" »
In nice clean clothes, we rode the Shinkansen (bullet train) part of the way to Kyoto and transfered to the bus, arriving in the afternoon. We were going to spend four nights in a Buddhist temple. How unique is that! Dubious at first, Myorenji Temple ...View image...is located in a quiet neighborhood within walking distance of Kyoto's main area. Myorenji Temple, part of the Nichiren Buddhist Sect, was founded 750 years ago and only takes guests who stay more than 2 days. The temple buildings are about 200 years old with a separate building for lodging. It was typical Japanese style with sliding shoji screens, simple tatami matted rooms, and a communal bathroom shared with the monks/priests still living here.
Beside the main temple, Myorenji has 8 sub-temples. With the luck of the draw, ex-Marine and I were given a gorgeous room with stunning partition paintings and the magnificent traditional rock garden right outside our room.
 Myorenji Temple grounds map
Continue reading "From The Kita Alps to Myorenji Temple in Kyoto" »
The views from, and around, Karasawa hut were breath-taking in more ways than one. It would get darn cold at night and even in the sunshine, a jacket was necessary. Unpacked, if you can call taking out a clean t-shirt and sweat pants unpacking, we gathered at the long tables in preparation for meager dinners supplemented by whatever goodies we brought with.
Kate then filled us in on the options for tomorrow. She was going to lead anyone who wanted to go with her, up to Hotaka-san. Mt. Hotaka (or Hotaka-dake) is Japan's third highest peak at 3,190m/10,465'. Two other peaks in the vicinity are Mt. Okuho and Mt. Kitaho, both with similar altitudes to Mt. Hotaka and about a three-hour "climb" up. Those two sounded more like mountaineering than climbing to me with a recommendation that you had to use an ice axe and crampons before July. This was October and there were still patches of snow in the scree. Back to Kate's scheduled hike, the ascent to Hotaka-dake entailed climbing up steel ladders bolted into the cliffs and chains.
 view from Karasawa hut
Continue reading "A Day At Karasawa, Kita Alps and Back Down The Mountains" »
Karasawa Hut at 2,300m/7,500' was today's destination and would be home for the next two nights. Karasawa Hut acts as a base for hikers and climbers who are heading to the peaks of Hotaka-Dake and Kitahotaka-Dake both very difficult and strenous climbs. Nonetheless, extremely popular for the Japanese and foreigners. Karasawa Hut is only open from April to November. You can stay overnight with meals or with dinner and breakfast in the dorm rooms. It's also possible to camp but there is a charge for camping on the rocks.
Everything in the backpacks, we set out early from Tokusawa Hut up the valley along the Azusa River that would eventually lead to a high valley. The first four miles wasn't too difficult altitude wise - only about a 200m/600' gain.
 Karasawa Map Detail
Continue reading "Karasawa Hut, The Kita Alps Goal For Today" »
It's been sunny but cool. Great weather for hiking. There were scrambled eggs along with the seaweed this morning and no fish with heads on, an improvement. Ready for the day hike, Kate led us off on a 14.4km/9mi round trip hike up to Tokugo Pass. There are quite a few other options for day hikes. If you are interested in very difficult, head up the valley from Takusawa towards Yokoo and turn right up the mountain (looked like a cliff to me) along a ridge line to Cho Ga-Dake. Cho Ga-Dake would never in a million years be my kind of hike. It was back along the level graded path from yesterday towards Myojin before turning off for Tokugo Pass, one an old main route linking Matsumoto and Kamikochi.
The graded path became steeper and made its way through the heavily wooded mountainside. The leaves were changing a little late this year and probably would have been at their peak in another 10 days. But the Oaks, Beeches and Maples were still colorful against the bare peaks and grey scree.
 Sheila and fall colors
Continue reading "A Day Hike Up To Tokugo Pass" »
From Matsumoto to Nakanoyu Spa in Kamikochi National Park. This solitary inn (onsen) was surrounded by a forest of Japanese beech trees. Onsen is another name for hot springs in Japan. This mountain inn and spa offered five separate natural volcanic hot springs. Some were inside, one for couples only and the beautifully situated outside one could be used by both sexes together.
New etiquette from Kate. If you use any of the hot springs, cover genitals only with another little washcloth given to us by the Nakanoyu Spa. Leave all clothes in the inside dressing room, cover genitals, enter hot springs and then use the washcloth to mop brow or wear around neck. It is also impolite for the men to stare at women's breasts. We were game and it was a surreal experience soaking in this outside hot spring surrounded by waterfalls and dense forest. Just great and there would only be one more chance to take baths, period, before we hit the mountain huts.
 group dinner at the onsen
Continue reading "A Mountain Onsen in The Kita (North) Alps of Japan" »
The few people in our group who had made the arduous trip to the top of Mount Fuji were ecstatic. One who was turned back by Kate at the set time disappointed, and we enjoyed just hanging out around the lakes.
All the Ryokans/Inns/Guesthouses provided typical dinners and breakfast throughout. A "typical" breakfast consisted of a bowl of rice, fish fillet, side of pickles (cucumbers, radishes, etc), sour red plum (representing the Japanese flag), fermented soy beans, seasoned seaweed and miso soup. Miso is basically fermented rice, barley and/or soybeans, with salt and a fungus. This thick paste is used as the main sauce in the soup. It is high in protein, rich in vitamins and minerals but neither of us could stand it. Meals like this are why the Japanese aren't as obese as Americans and we were going to lose a lot of weight in Japan. This kind of breakfast was expected if not exactly to our taste, and I was getting the look from ex-Marine as he picked gingerly through it.
 preparing breakfast
Continue reading "Into The North (Kita) Alps of Japan" »
We were staying at Nagiyama Guesthouse, a small family owned guesthouse in Kawaguchi. Settled in, Kate gathered the group together and explained the intricacies of Japanese etiquette.
- The Nagiyama Guesthouse in Kawaguchi did not have its own ofuro, Japanese bath. We would dress in our yukatas (cotton robes) and traipse down the street to the public bath. Men on one side, women on the other. Once there, you leave all your clothes in the dressing room outside the actual room to wash in, enter the communal washing room naked - oh, let me take that back. You actually have a little washrag to cover your genitals - is that considered naked? Sit on a small seat (low to the ground and not easy to get off and up), lather up, scrub and rinse off well. Big no-no to carry suds into the ofuro. No soaps allowed. From there, you finally head to the ofuro (hot tub) room. This tub was more the size of a small pool able to hold 4-10 women and hot didn't describe it. Japanese hot tubs are usually kept around 40 degrees centigrade/104 degrees fahrenheit.
 wearing yakatas at dinner
Continue reading "Ryokan/Inn/Guesthouse Experiences, Etiquette and Sumo Wrestling in Japan" »
It's only a few days into the trip and already I'm getting tired of listening to ex-Marine's reminiscenses. Even more intense today because we're on the way to Fuji Five Lakes, the same Mt. Fuji that he had to climb in the Marines. Yadda, yadda... Mt Fuji (Fuji-San) is Japan's highest mountain, 3,776m/ 12,388'. Worshiped as a sacred mountain, Fuji-San is a dormant volcano that last erupted in 1708.
Depending on the weather, Kate will lead anyone who is up for it on an ascent of the peak but with very stringent parameters. A mini-bus would take us to Fuji's Kawaguchiko 5th station, which is where the paved road ends. The 5th Station is at an altitude of about 2,300m/7,545' above sea level. That still leaves quite a few hours and meters to ascend into the thin air. The two choices were - head for the top or stay on a path circling the fifth station. IF, very big IF, you wanted to make it to Station 10, the top, you had to be at a certain point at a certain time or go down. Kate was adamant about that. The majority of Japanese climb Mt. Fuji by staying overnight at Stations 7 or 8 rather than a straight climb up.
 Kawaguchi welcome
Continue reading "In The Fuji Five Lakes Area of Japan" »
There were 13 in the group from all parts of the country, and Kate Ulberg who is still leading trips through Japan, made 14. Three couples, three men and the rest women. None of us were younger than mid-40's, the amazing Mary was 77-years young, and still up for hiking Japan's Alps. What a little fireball she turned out to be. Introductions all around and Kate gave a short "informational" with suggestions for the next day. The Meiji Jingu Shrime was one. Others, Steve and I saw yesterday, and then one very early excursion if we chose to accept. And by early, Kate meant a 4:00 am wake-up call. Everyone up for this, we set off by taxis the next morning to the Tsukiji Fish Market.
The Tsukiji Fish Market is the biggest in Japan and one of the largest in the world. About 3:00 am, boats begin arriving from around the world laden with fish. Japan is one of the biggest fish-eating nations and over 450 kinds of seafood are consumed in Tokyo alone.
 Tsukiji Market
Continue reading "More Tokyo Sights - Tsukiji Fish Market and Meiji Shrine" »
Japan has never been cheap. Not then, not now. From Narita, we took the express bus directly to the Crowne Plaza Metropolitan Hotel booked by the tour operator for the group. One of the least expensive methods of transportation and 60-90 minutes. A faster connection is the JR Narita Express train serving Tokyo, Shinagawa, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro Stations. The Narita Express takes only 60 minutes and all seats are reserved.
The Crowne Plaza Metropolitan Hotel is located in the Ikebukuro district close to the very busy Ikebukuro station and Seibu Department Store. Our group wasn't scheduled to arrive until tomorrow but there were places to see...now. Undaunted and armed with maps, we set off to explore Tokyo. ex-Marine and I went into the Ikebukuro Station and were instantly confused. Huge maps, different ticket dispensing machines, maybe this wasn't a good idea. To the rescue, three English speaking people who noticed our dumb-struck expressions and immediately asked where we were going and explained the coin machines along with maps. Very, very easy once it was shown to us. I wish the Internet had the information it does today. Check out Tokyo Metro with its easy-to-get-around suggestions.
 Tokyo Metro Map
Continue reading "Tokyo Sights On Foot and By Subway" »
Air? Many non-stops and connections to Tokyo, the starting point of this trip. United, American, JAL, US Airways, All Nippon are just a few from American. The short list from Europe - Lufthansa, KLM, Swiss Airways, British Airways, Air France and more. We turned in air miles and flew JAL non-stop from Chicago to Tokyo.
Visas? According to the latest from Embassy of Japan, there is a visa exemption agreement. Nationals of 62 countries carrying valid passports may enter Japan without visas for up to 90 days. Visit this link for the entire list but I'd check for up-to-date information.
Continue reading "Planning A Hiking Trip Into Japan" »
Over 20 years ago, ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I came across a hiking and touring trip into the Alps of Japan. Alps? I didn't even know that Japan had mountains, let along Alps (forgive my weak geography then). I wouldn't bother wasting my time, or yours, on an ancient trip if it wasn't for these important facts:
- Different tour organizers are still running similar trips;
- There are many other people besides myself who may not have been aware of the Japanese Alps; and
- It was one of the best experiences in our lives.
Continue reading "Hiking and Touring The Kita Alps of Japan" »
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