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April 01, 2007

Around Lake Garda

With our free "Cartina delle passeggiate ed escursioni" (walking map) given to us by the Tourist Bureau, we set out for a hike up to the summit of Monte Baldo. The European method of hiking/walking in mountains is take a cable car up and then explore the trails around the top and walk down but we have always done the opposite. Hike up and take the cable car down...hoping to elevate our heart rate and burn more calories (a losing battle). The map detailed the walking options with numbers and, supposedly, it would take three hours to reach the top. There were at least nine different options for walking on Monte Baldo alone.

We worked our way up on an excellent foot path, sweat flying in all directions, "Buon giornos" to all the people strolling down, watching out for the multitudes of mountain bikers, also on their way down, sharing the path. You can even book a mountain bike and have it delivered to the top of Monte Baldo, receive a map with an itinerary and either descend or explore paths around the mountain. How much simpler could they make it!


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March 31, 2007

Malcesine on Lake Garda

Malcesine is one of the larger towns on Lake Garda. An old town with a small port, squares and streets and hundreds of hotels to choose from. Mount Baldo rose directly behind Malcesine, reachable by cable car if you didn't want to hike up or down. There was also very good bus service up and down the coast to reach Riva del Garda.

However, it was not easy to get here from Santa Margherita Ligure. It involved training from Spezia to Peschiera via Vernona and Desenzano and then a bus to Malcesine. We missed the bus to Malcesine and would have had to sit for hours in Peschiera so we bit the bullet and took a very taxi. The boats plying Lake Garda were another way of reaching Malcesine but the schedule didn't work for us. Expensive but sometimes you just have to go with the flow...and were glad because even our taxi had a problem finding the way up to Hotel Bellevue San Lorenzo, chosen off the Malcesine website. It also didn't help that I couldn't even pronounce Malcesine correctly. That made it impossible to ask for directions...no one understood me. Finally, resorted to showing "Malcesine" written out on a piece of paper which worked beautifully. Try that if you ever get stuck.

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example of walks around Malcesine

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March 30, 2007

Portovenere and On To Lake Garda

There were many different hiking options around Portovenere. It was possible to finish the "official" Cinque Terre primarily going up and down through the little towns, or veer onto the high road climbing through vineyards and hills from Portovenere surrounding the Gulf of La Spezia. We decided to hike from Portovenere to Colle del Telegrafo, following castle walls, with its beautiful views of the coast even though Portovenere isn't one of the five official Cinque Terre villages. One of the trails began in the center and climbed up a long flight of stone stairs along the old fortress into the hills. The views stretched to La Spezia in one direction and the hills of the Cinque Terre in the other. Through Campiglia, a pine forest, down steep stairs to Riomaggiore. Without getting too lost, there was still time to walk a section of the trail (not as narrow) from Manarola to Corniglia FS Station (train station) and wait for the train back to Santa Margherita. The trails are very well marked but sometimes I miss a blaze (a bright red or orange mark on a tree or rock showing the direction). If you ever hike a distance without seeing a blaze, do a fast reverse and circle around until the trail is obvious.

This entire section of the Ligurian coast is surrounded with stone walls around vineyards, built without any cement and steep terraces dropping all the way down to the sea. The Cinque Terre is a National Park and Protected Marine Area... honestly, it is drop-dead gorgeous. The entire area was beyond description...

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Cinque Terre Part #2

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March 26, 2007

Planning A Visit To The Ligurian Coast and Lake Garda

Many people decide to travel and visit areas in Europe based on historical sites, churches, etc. Our main focus is: what kind of outdoor activity is there to work off all the calories we will eat and drink. Even in our old Marathon running days, the two of us could eat up to and beyond every calorie burned off.

The Ligurian Coast offered plenty of opportunities for day hikes and walks along with its renown as Pesto heaven and wonderful Italian wines. Lots of reading and time spent on the Italian Tourism Internet Site and Liguria Tourist Bureau trying to make a decision on where to stay and how many days in each place, the most difficult part for me. You want to stay someplace nice without paying a fortune but hope the hotel you chose doesn't turn out to be a dump. Not easy to decide...

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Ligurian Coast Map

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March 25, 2007

Italy's Ligurian Coast and Lake Garda

Spring is one of the best times to visit Italy and it is necessary to make your plans now! You may not know where the Ligurian Coast is with its rugged Riviera Levante, but you would certainly recognize the individual towns in this area - Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Camogli. Up the coast - Genoa. Down the coast...the Cinque Terre consisting of five villages: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Menarola, Riomaggiore...and Portovenere is another picturesque town overlooking La Spezia. Parts of the Ligurian Coast is also referred to as the "Italian Riviera" and includes San Remo. Now you know what I'm talking about!

ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I are always looking for a new experience and place to go. That means searching out famous and not-so-well-known spots that are easy to travel to on our own. This is our preference but you, as well as some of our friends, may think otherwise. They like the interaction of meeting new people and traveling with a group. There are pros and cons both ways. The deciding factor for us is usually the cost...group tours are always more expensive. Wouldn't you think that would be the opposite? The more people, the less expensive? Not so.

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