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A million lifetimes isn't enough to explore Europe on foot, bicycle or just sightsee. Each time we visit and choose a different country area to explore, it's love at first sight. In Europe, you can begin the day in one destination, hike/bike or walk around lakes, up and over mountains, visit charming towns on the way and return at night on the fast and efficient train and bus systems. Public transportation and chairlifts are bicycle/children/people friendly, there is always a refuge or mountain hut to stop for lunch and every region, without exception is gorgeous.
Here are seven of my favorite areas along with personal favorite towns. It will come as no surprise to anyone that Switzerland is #1 followed by Austria #2 because they are "no brainers" thanks to wonderful signage on almost all routes. France is a close #3:
Continue reading "Sheila's 7 Favorite Countries to Hike, Bike, Walk in Europe" »
I firmly believe that family traveling is one of the most rewarding parts of life. It's an opportunity that may never come again and just takes a lot of planning and flexibility. We had three glorious days to talk and share experiences with Sarah's undivided attention. Not like the usual phone calls or visits where I ask.."What's new?" and they reply..."Nothing"...while I.M.'ing to friends, i-Pod earbuds on, the television on and heavy metal music all going at one time. There was just the three of us for almost four straight days.
Sarah's, 13-year old teenage thoughts:
- Rome was a ball and is already planning where she should travel when she graduates college and lives with her parents (Michael...Paula...are you ready for this? No job...just travel?)
- What is a bidet and how do you use it?
- Roman baths were gross. How could everyone bath together and why was it a big social event?
- The people at the 5**** Hassler Hotel across the street were snobs.
 photo taken by Sarah looking down the Spanish Steps
Continue reading "Traveling With Teenagers (or Children)" »
The driver took us back to Fumincino Airport for check-in at Lufthansa. Our return entailed a short Rome to Frankfurt flight, overnight at the IBIS Hotel and fly home to Chicago on United early the next day. Lufthansa offered to check our bags all the way through to Chicago. Sounded good to us, took out some clean clothes for the night and checked those bags through.
In a lounge until flight time. Sarah loved the Lufthansa flight and thought they were the greatest. Lufthansa had:
- Little Diet Coke and Sprite Cans in German..."Grandma, aren't they cute?"... (Had to wash them out and take as souvenirs.);
- Cheese sandwiches on a cheese bread. (Got an extra one from the flight attendant and she snarfed both down); and
- Interesting wax paper bags the sandwiches were served in. Each bag described a different fruit or vegetable in German and English along with its origin.
 Sarah inside a Rome airport lounge
Continue reading "Sarah says: Arrivederci, Roma" »
No one could have asked for a more wonderful last day in Rome. Not a cloud in the sky and hot! Breakfast and then we have to finish packing. Today Sarah ate Jif Peanut Butter on bread along with Honey Nut Cherrios. Many evenings she'd eat some of the dry cereal as a snack before going to bed.
Final packing over with Sarah's presents locked in our suitcase (TSA lock), we took them out of the room and left with the owner until 4:00 pm when the driver would take us to Fuimincino Airport. We had a plan. The first stop? Trevi Fountain where there was only a small amount of people this early and Sarah was able to throw her coins into the fountain to ensure she returns to Rome one day....View image...
 Sarah throwing important coins in the Trevi Fountain
Continue reading "Sarah's Last Day in Rome: Much To See and Do" »
Rome is very, very crowded this week. Easter Week, Spring Break in many countries, families with small children, school groups, locals, tourists from every country in the world. I knew the lines at the Sistine Chapel would be long and were advised to go around lunch time. We did, but still....
The line stretched for blocks, creeping towards the one and only Vatican entrance unless you pay for a tour. Tour groups enter differently and free-lance tour guides stationed themselves along the line offering tours (expensive tours). We crept slowly onward until we reached security. Everything goes through the x-ray machines, you step through the sensors and once through, you must check backpacks. Then, buy expensive tickets and enter.
 around the Vatican
Continue reading "Sarah's 2nd Afternoon in Rome: The Sistine Chapel" »
I had just dropped off into a deep sleep last night when I heard someone crying. Sarah was a little homesick, couldn't sleep because Grandpa Sonny was snoring and there were too many noisy cars outside. A little comfort, few hugs, poked Grandpa to make him stop snoring and she fell asleep. For the next two nights, the two of us will use ear plugs.
Up around 7:30 am for breakfast. I came equipped with Honey Nut Cheerios , Cocoa Puffs, individual packs of Jif Peanut Butter, lunch-size packs of Doritos and Potato Chips AND one Kraft Easy Mac n' Cheese just in case Ms. Finicky Eater didn't like the food. Sure enough. The bread was okay, she didn't like the milk and ate Cocoa Puffs dry and I nuked the Kraft Easy Mac n' Cheese in the B&B's microwave.
 approaching the Pantheon
Continue reading "Sarah's 2nd Morning in Rome: Fountains, Pantheon and Castel Sant'Angelo" »
The B&B was picked by me for location...location...location... Right by the Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti). Left backpacks and bags at All'Obelisco and immediately started taking pictures, walked down the Spanish Steps lined at the bottom with all the big-name designer stores. Dior, Prada, etc., with their stratospheric prices. ...View image... They actually have to gall to put prices in the windows. Probably deters riff-raff like us from setting foot in the stores. A pair of mini-shorts for 1,500 Euros? That's $2,300 U.S. Dollars at today's conversion! These places are only for the Paris Hiltons of the world.
Instead of Fendi, McDonald's down the street. Sarah was hungry. She said her stomach was telling her dinner time but McDonald's didn't start serving until 10:15 am. That was okay. We just hung out and waited for them to fire up the fryers. By the way, if you every need a toilet in any country, McDonald's is the place to go. Always clean bathrooms. A caveat: In some countries, you must eat there and show your receipt to use the bathrooms. Must show it to a guard. (Just so you know before you go.)
 YES...we are here in Rome
Continue reading "Sarah's First Day in Rome" »
We have no private jet (what a surprise...) and have "schlepper class" seats (economy). Chicago to Washington, DC and then Washington to Rome on United. There are direct flights on Alitalia and American Airlines from Chicago but we are loyal United flyers and Sarah is on a free ticket (turned in miles). Because we do fly so much on United, we burned some upgrade certificates and Sarah and ex-Marine ("Grandpa") will sit in Business Class on the way from Washington, DC to Rome while I sit back in economy.
Sarah arrived at our house hours before she needed to because she was so excited and wanted to head right out to the airport. Just what we needed...a few extra hours sitting around O'Hare... ex-Marine also volunteers at O'Hare Airport and a very nice United person gave us a personal invite into the First Class Lounge. That made the waiting a lot easier and talk about spoiling a teenager from the get-go. Sarah may never be the same again...
 excited Sarah waiting in the United lounge
Continue reading "Sarah Flies and Arrives in Rome" »
Major Concerns?
- How do you make Roman History interesting to a teenager? It's dry and, sorry history buffs, pretty boring. Sarah's homework was to buy a few guidebooks, read them, and decide what her important "must sees" were. Her tentative decision: We'll plan on hitting the highlights - Roman Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon and definitely St. Peter's and the Sistine Chapel. Other than that, we'll spend most of the time around the fountains, walking through Rome, stopping when something interests her and of, course, shopping.
- She is a very picky vegetarian eater. Doesn't like a lot of different vegetables, only pizza with tomatoes and cheese, no ravioli or other filled pastas, won't eat fish... Solution: I'm packing two boxes of her favorite dry cereals, Doritos, Potato Chips, and small cups of peanut butter for emergencies. There will always be spaghetti, pizza, Gelato and french fries at McDonald's. For three days, Sarah can live on this easily.
Continue reading "Planning Rome With A Teenager" »
There's nothing like a family trip to building memories that will last a lifetime, especially one memorable month (1978) in Europe with five children, age 9 to 16 years. This never-to-be-forgotten chaoatic, frustrating, dramatic experience did nothing to change my mind about traveling with children. Even with the unforgettable memories of:
- Robyn (14) upchucking her spaghetti dinner in our pensione sink, clogging up the drain and driving the little maid crazy trying to unclog i;
- All five youngsters rooting through and under the garbage in Florence, looking for unique empty beer cans to take back to America because Michael (16) decided it would make a great collection;
- Tracie (15) sulking because she was missing "parties" at home until Nice when cute French boys materialized;
- Jamie (9) only loved the pigeons and remembers nothing else about Europe;
- Joel (14) kept us in stitches when he wasn't reducing Jamie to tears by calling her "monkey";
- ex-Marine (husband, Steve) pounding down an Amsterdam street, shouting he was going to kill the first chld he could get his hands on after they send him "over the bend" one too many times;
- A noteable crying scene in a Rome restaurant (not far from the Spanish Steps) when the entire family melted down in tears, and stormed out with ex-Marine shouting he was returning to the U.S. (That lasted until he found out how much return tickets would cost!)
 kids spead out on a train platform in Europe, passing the time
Continue reading "Visiting Rome With A Teenager (Or Child)" »
With our free "Cartina delle passeggiate ed escursioni" (walking map) given to us by the Tourist Bureau, we set out for a hike up to the summit of Monte Baldo. The European method of hiking/walking in mountains is take a cable car up and then explore the trails around the top and walk down but we have always done the opposite. Hike up and take the cable car down...hoping to elevate our heart rate and burn more calories (a losing battle). The map detailed the walking options with numbers and, supposedly, it would take three hours to reach the top. There were at least nine different options for walking on Monte Baldo alone.
We worked our way up on an excellent foot path, sweat flying in all directions, "Buon giornos" to all the people strolling down, watching out for the multitudes of mountain bikers, also on their way down, sharing the path. You can even book a mountain bike and have it delivered to the top of Monte Baldo, receive a map with an itinerary and either descend or explore paths around the mountain. How much simpler could they make it!
Continue reading "Around Lake Garda, Italy" »
Malcesine is one of the larger towns on Lake Garda. An old town with a small port, squares and streets and hundreds of hotels to choose from. Mount Baldo rose directly behind Malcesine, reachable by cable car if you didn't want to hike up or down. There was also very good bus service up and down the coast to reach Riva del Garda.
However, it was not easy to get here from Santa Margherita Ligure. It involved training from Spezia to Peschiera via Vernona and Desenzano and then a bus to Malcesine. We missed the bus to Malcesine and would have had to sit for hours in Peschiera so we bit the bullet and took a very taxi. The boats plying Lake Garda were another way of reaching Malcesine but the schedule didn't work for us. Expensive but sometimes you just have to go with the flow...and were glad because even our taxi had a problem finding the way up to Hotel Bellevue San Lorenzo, chosen off the Malcesine website. It also didn't help that I couldn't even pronounce Malcesine correctly. That made it impossible to ask for directions...no one understood me. Finally, resorted to showing "Malcesine" written out on a piece of paper which worked beautifully. Try that if you ever get stuck.
example of walks around Malcesine
Continue reading "Malcesine on Lake Garda, Italy" »
There were many different hiking options around Portovenere . It was possible to finish the "official" Cinque Terre primarily going up and down through the little towns, or veer onto the high road climbing through vineyards and hills from Portovenere surrounding the Gulf of La Spezia. We decided to hike from Portovenere to Colle del Telegrafo, following castle walls, with its beautiful views of the coast even though Portovenere isn't one of the five official Cinque Terre villages. One of the trails began in the center and climbed up a long flight of stone stairs along the old fortress into the hills. The views stretched to La Spezia in one direction and the hills of the Cinque Terre in the other. Through Campiglia, a pine forest, down steep stairs to Riomaggiore. Without getting too lost, there was still time to walk a section of the trail (not as narrow) from Manarola to Corniglia FS Station (train station) and wait for the train back to Santa Margherita. The trails are very well marked but sometimes I miss a blaze (a bright red or orange mark on a tree or rock showing the direction). If you ever hike a distance without seeing a blaze, do a fast reverse and circle around until the trail is obvious.
This entire section of the Ligurian coast is surrounded with stone walls around vineyards, built without any cement and steep terraces dropping all the way down to the sea. The Cinque Terre is a National Park and Protected Marine Area... honestly, it is drop-dead gorgeous. The entire area was beyond description...
Cinque Terre Part #2
Continue reading "Portovenere and On To Lake Garda, Italy" »
We decided to tackle the Cinque Terre walk by starting in Monterossa heading in an Easterly direction since Monterossa was on the Genoa-La Spezia line. Most written directions start the hike in Riomaggiore, going West. Another option tourists have, is taking a ferry rather than the train to reach these little towns...very scenic but slower. The train was very crowded with other like-minded tourists intent on hiking or exploring the Cinque Terre. (Check out the APT Cinqueterre website for lots of information.)
The Cinque Terre consists of five fishing villages on the hillside, all extremely picturesque. The trails are very well marked and anyone can do the entire hike or just walk parts of the steep trails connecting the villages. There isn't a motorable road between them. You must train, ferry or walk...
Down from the FS Station through Monterossa heading towards the blue route along the sea The trail contours the sea for the entire distance with some ups and downs on mule tracks and steep, stone stairs. The entire length of the Cinque Terre, from Monterossa to Riomaggiore, only takes about 5 hours total walking, but we thought it would be more enjoyable to break it up into two days. Tourists were already sitting at outdoor cafes in the pretty village, drinking coffee and admiring the view.
Continue reading "Walking The Cinque Terre of Italy in Two Days" »
The Italian Tourist Bureaus are usually loaded with free maps along with other information and Santa Margherita Ligure was no exception. Armed with the "Vie e Sentieri del Monte di Portofino" map, we walked through the center of town and somehow managed to find the right route up the hill towards Portofino. If I am going to get us lost at all while hiking, it is usually happens trying to get out of town and on the correct trail. ex-Marine has zero map-reading skills and usually spends his time shouting at me, "I thought you said you knew the way"..when we do get lost. (as always...I ignore him.) When I do find the way, my nickname is "Danielle Boonette." I have a Garmin GPS but find it very time-consuming entering waypoints.
Today was a piece of cake. Up Monte di Portofino on trails maintained by the C.A.I. Club Alpino Italiano with incredible views down to the sea and coastline and some areas resembled a botanical park.
Continue reading "Portofino and Rapallo, Italy" »
We landed at Milan Malpensa Airport, took the airport bus that stops right in front of Centrale Train Station and bought 2nd class tickets to Santa Margherita Ligure. There is always someone at the train station who speaks English and we don't buy them in advance in case there is a problem with plane delays, etc. I use the Trenitalia website to do some train investigation and also Rail Europe for more detailed country passes, etc.
Through Genoa...in hindsight, we've never visited Genoa and should have scheduled two days there ...off the train in Santa Margherita...and a short walk through some twisty cobblestone streets running on angles (without getting too lost)...passing many restaurants, cafes and Gelato stands... to Hotel Fiorina. A small, crowded hotel in a wonderful, central location with an extremely friendly staff. This was easy!
Santa Margherita Map
Continue reading "Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy" »
Many people decide to travel and visit areas in Europe based on historical sites, churches, etc. Our main focus is: what kind of outdoor activity is there to work off all the calories we will eat and drink. Even in our old Marathon running days, the two of us could eat up to and beyond every calorie burned off.
The Ligurian Coast offered plenty of opportunities for day hikes and walks along with its renown as Pesto heaven and wonderful Italian wines. Lots of reading and time spent on the Italian Tourism Internet Site and Liguria Tourist Bureau trying to make a decision on where to stay and how many days in each place, the most difficult part for me. You want to stay someplace nice without paying a fortune but hope the hotel you chose doesn't turn out to be a dump. Not easy to decide...
Ligurian Coast Map
Continue reading "Planning A Visit To The Ligurian Coast and Lake Garda, Italy" »
Spring is one of the best times to visit Italy and it is necessary to make your plans now! You may not know where the Ligurian Coast is with its rugged Riviera Levante, but you would certainly recognize the individual towns in this area - Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Camogli. Up the coast - Genoa. Down the coast...the Cinque Terre consisting of five villages: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Menarola, Riomaggiore...and Portovenere is another picturesque town overlooking La Spezia. Parts of the Ligurian Coast is also referred to as the "Italian Riviera" and includes San Remo. Now you know what I'm talking about!
ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I are always looking for a new experience and place to go. That means searching out famous and not-so-well-known spots that are easy to travel to on our own. This is our preference but you, as well as some of our friends, may think otherwise. They like the interaction of meeting new people and traveling with a group. There are pros and cons both ways. The deciding factor for us is usually the cost...group tours are always more expensive. Wouldn't you think that would be the opposite? The more people, the less expensive? Not so.
Continue reading "Italy's Ligurian Coast and Lake Garda" »
It would have been almost sacreligious to be in the Naples area and not visit Pompeii. The Circumvesuviana train runs between Sorrento and Naples (no bus) with a stop at Pompei Scavi/Villa dei Misteri. You can buy a single ticket, valid one day for Pompeii only, or a ticket that gives access to five sites - Herculaneum, Pompeii, Oplontis, Stabiae and Boscoreale - valid for three days. It was also easy to hire audio cassettes or a real guide once there. We chose to wander around on our own with aid of a map.
Almost everyone knows the history of Pompeii, buried by Mt. Vesuvius' eruption in 79AD. Pompeii was considered a large city for its time, and even more cosmopolitan than Rome, a several days' journey from Pompeii. It held administrative control over the neighboring suburbs, and was a center for trade in crops, wine, and olive oil.
Pompeii layout
Continue reading "Pompeii and Arrivederci To The Amalfi Coast, Italy" »
It was time to bus to the Northern Coast, Sorrento and Hotel El Nido. Sorrento has a wonderful network of paths: coast-to-coast; between towns; easy or difficult; and almost all accessible by public transportation from either the beginning of your walk or the end. I can't encourage you enough to take even short little strolls into the countryside. It gives you a chance to really savor the views, chat with friendly locals and other like-minded walkers, escape the crowds and burn off a few pasta, vino and gelato calories. Some of the trails are blazed with CAI red and white marks and others with orange marks to guide you along over old mule paths, alleys and little villages. And the views of Sorrento and the peninsula are breathtaking from the top.
Ehen we weren't making little excursions into the hills, there was plenty of time to take El Nido's shuttle or a public bus down into Sorrento, browsing and eating.
Continue reading "Sorrento, Italy" »
There is a non-stop flow of ferry traffic to and from Capri departing from Naples, Amalfi, Positano or Sorrento. And an equal amount of tourists. Everyone arrives at Marina Grande where there are taxis, buses and hotels waiting to pick up their guests for transport up to Capri Town and/or Anacapri both at the top of the island. The boat excursions to the famous Blue Grotto also depart from here. Or you could take the funicular (with its very long lines) up.
We decided to walk up to Capri town via the Phoenician steps (Scala Fenicia) built in the middle ages. Almost all commerce, people and goods, had to use these steps up to Capri town. A road wasn't built until 1877 for vehicular traffic. The 995 steps between the Harbor and Town were repaired and opened to pedestrians in 1999. A piece of cake if you take your time and there are even railings on most portions.
Capri
Continue reading "Isle of Capri, Italy" »
What can I possibly say about Positano that hasn't already been said? Not very much. It has been called the most photographed fishing village in the world with its tiers of buildings up the mountain. We chose to visit in a different way. By getting off the bus in upper Positano and walking uphill to Santa Maria del Castello, Caserma Forestale, down to Monte Pertuso and then continue down through the lower town of Positano to the beach. The bus ride along the coast is visually stunning and extremely hair-raising on the Amalfi Drive. A narrow, snaking road that hugs the cliff 500 feet above sea level with major drop-offs on the sea-side. Huge buses, trucks and autos all speeding along this two-lane road passing each other on the turns as well as the straightaways. Gave me the heebie-jeebies, but other than approach by sea, it's the Amalfi Drive or nothing.
There were two trail variations up towards Santa Maria del Castello and one was shadier than the other. That was our choice...it was darn hot and this was only May. The heat makes it almost impossible (and dangerous) to walk these trails during the summer.
Positano
Continue reading "A Day Around Positano, Italy" »
After a wonderful breakfast on the balcony overlooking Amalfi, it was a left turn out the Villa Lara's gate onto the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills) running slightly uphill. Amalfi was a center for papermaking in the 12th century. Natural waterpower ensured cost-effective handmade paper but a major flood in 1954 closed most of the mills for good. We passed by the Museo della Carta with paper samples, old machinery, etc. but didn't go in. The day was too beautiful to be indoors. There were many streams and trees, the path was good and headed up towards Pontone after 1-1/1/2 miles.
Pontone is a pretty little village (aren't they all) with a drinking fountain in the square but instead of lingering, we walked through the square, past the Church of San Filippo Neri and continued up to Minuta. This section was more strenous but only about a half-hour from Pontone At Minuta, we had a choice. Should we head back down to Amalfi or continue going on to Ravello visible in the distance? Towards Ravello it was...
portion of a typical walking map
Continue reading "Hiking Amalfi-Pontone-Ravello-Atrani in Italy" »
The end of May is usually a perfect time to visit Italy before it gets beastly hot, and this trip was no exception. Chicago-Frankfurt-Naples...on the train (whose ultimate destination was Sicily)...a train is the only way to travel in Europe ...off in Salerno...walk to the pier...wait for the ferry under a clear blue sky and very hot sun. (We did have to ask for directions many times to find the pier, but people were very helpful. "Scusi" and "Grazie" are the most important Italian words in the vocabulary!) A beautiful ferry ride on the Bay of Salerno to Amalfi. The coast is incredibly stunning with all the little fishing villages stretched out on the Bay. The Amalfi coast was designated a World Heritage sight because the Committee considers "...that the Costiera Amalfitana is an outstanding example of a Mediterranean landscape, with exceptional cultural and natural scenic values resulting from its dramatic topography and historical evolution..."
Amalfi was easy to fall in love with. Just rolling our suitcases through the little town, past the Duamo, souvenir shops, lemons and tomatoes everywhere, and stands selling umpteen flavors of Gelato was exciting. I loved it on sight.
the Duamo
Continue reading "Arriving in Amalfi, Italy" »
Air? That was the easy part. United Airlines from Chicago-Frankfurt and then we used miles for free economy tickets on Lufthansa, to fly Frankfurt-Naples. There are many different ways of getting to Naples, your main destination for the Coast. Check them all out for lowest prices...highest in the summer months... little less in Sping and Fall (we were going at the end of May).
Where to Stay? After weeks of vacillating between the different towns, we decided to stay in Amalfi for six nights, visiting Ravello, Positano, and Capri on day trips. Then, bus to Sorrento and spend four nights there, making a short excursion to Pompeii.
Continue reading "Sorrentine/Amalfi Coast Planning - Italy" »
It is almost impossible to find an area in Italy that I don't like. Scenery, history, food and wine......everything is wonderful. Once you have visited the important to-do's - Rome, Florence, Venice - it's time to explore the rest of the country.
Ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I have visited: Sicily (reviewed 7/28-8/6/06 with Explore Co., U.K.); Tuscany (reviewed 5/27-6/5/06 with Sherpa Expeditions); hiked and snow-shoed in the Italian Alps (Cortina, Merano, Ortesi...to name a few); and spent time in Italy's magnificent Lake Districts (Como, Maggiore, Lugano and Orta). It was inevitable that sooner or later we'd work our way towards the famous Amalfi Coast, known as "Sea of Ulysses, Land of the Sirens" and playground for the rich and famous. A plus was the entire peninsula is criss-crossed with marked hiking trails.
Continue reading "The Amalfi Coast On Your Own - Italy" »
On Saturday morning (last day of tour), the Explore group went to visit Mt. Etna.
Mt. Etna is the largest volcano in Europe, very active and erupts frequently. It's 10,962' high but tourists are only allowed to go as high as 8,000' because it is too dangerous. There are sensors buried all over the mountain for monitoring purposes. Usually, the volcano smoke changes from white to black when an eruption is in the offing.
On that day, "ex-Marine" and I walked up a trail picking up different color rocks between still hot lava fields from an earlier eruption a few months ago. Mt. Etna was just puffing white smoke. I casually mentioned, "Wouldn't it be fantastic to actually be here and witness an eruption?"
Continue reading "Mt. Etna, Sicily - Italy" »
From Palermo, we drove to Cefalu and then to Castelbuono exploring these two towns before continuing on to Taormina.
Cefalu was possibly begun as a fortified Greek outpost and has a Lavatolo Medievale (old loutside aundry), ... View image... a Duomo, and the remains of Temple of Diana. Very small and charming to walk around and it appeared to be a nice-sized resort
Taormina is Sicily's most famous resort on the slopes of Monte Tauro. In ancient times, Taormina was protected by walls and gates, and traces of the walls and two entrances, Porta Messina and Porta Catania, still remain.
Continue reading "Taormina, Sicily - Italy" »
Palermo has a reputation as a noisy, dirty, polluted city albeit with a long history as Sicily's capital. It is all that but Palermo had exceptional food.
Let's talk cookies and biscotti. Wandering around one of the two main squares, we happened to buy Biscotti at a small bakery, and then walked around the corner into a famous bakery that I can't remember the name of! However, if you want to fly me back to Palermo, I'll find that exact spot without any problem...we'll eat Biscotti and cookies for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The Bakery sold very expensive cookies prepackaged in cellophane. Because of the cost, I didn't open the package to taste until the end of the trip. Too late to run back to Palermo and buy a year's supply so I had to make do by rationing and hoarding them, refusing to share. I even ended up keeping the "crumbs" in the bag and ate them mixed in with ice cream at home! They were so good....
The shops were also in this general vicinity of Palermo:
Continue reading "The Cookies and Biscotti of Palermo, Sicily - Italy" »
We continued on to Agrigento to visit the Valley of the Temples. Agrigento was founded as a Greek colony in 6th century BC, and became a leading city in the Mediterranean. Most of the ancient town still lies buried under the fields and orchards.
The Valley is an archaeological park and some temples, named after Greek gods, were almost in a straight line.
There is the Temple of Zeus with its U-shaped cuts, used for ropes to lift and set the stones. The Temple of Concorde which is the only temple still intact in its entirity, built in 430 BC.
The Temple of Hercules is the oldest in the complex.
Continue reading "Agrigento, Sicily and Its Temples - Italy" »
The Villa Romana del Casale is located about 5km outside Piazza Armerina. It is the richest, largest and most complex collection of late Roman mosaics in the world, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. By far, the most beautiful and impressive mosaics I've ever seen. When talking to friends about places we've traveled, I always recommend going to the Villa Imperial.
One reason these mosaics made such an impact was that they were cleaning a floor with running water. There is no comparison between dry mosaics and wet mosaics. The intense and brilliant colors were amazing. Yes, they were magnificent dry but wet....incredible!
Continue reading "Villa Imperial, Casale, Sicily - Italy" »
Left Syracusa on our little tour bus heading to Piazza Armerina, today's eventual destination. The first stop was Noto, a little town from the 9th century set among olive groves and almond trees. Noto had been occupied by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Aragoneses, and Spanish cultures. But it was destroyed in 1692 by an earthquake. Sicily has worked hard to rebuild Noto which is primarily built of lovely tufa stone, a golden brown color, and we just ambled around for a while.
Ragusa was not a "must see" place for us - just a lunch spot. A word about lunches: the group would typically spread out and either find a small restaurant/fast lunch spot for pasta, pizza or sandwiches; or go into a little shop and buy whatever looked good. Freshly-baked bread, fresh tomatoes that actually tasted like a ripe tomato, fruit, olives, lunch meats, Buffalo Mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes in oil - made a wonderful lunch. My mouth is watering just remembering!
Ragusa is two towns combined into one in 1926. Lower Ragusa, the ancient city, was rebuilt after suffering heavy damages during an earthquake. (Sicily has had its share of earthquakes.)
Continue reading "Noto, Ragusa and Piazza Armerina, Sicily - Italy" »
We flew into the Catania Airport to join the tour in Syracusa. While still in the air, Mt. Etna was visible, puffing out white smoke (everyone has read about famous Mt. Etna). The airport is approximately one hour away by taxi or bus and it's easy to get to by taking public transportation. The Park Hotel, Syracusa was around a mile (within walking distance) from the major sites and Ortygia Island.
Syracusa/Siracusa was built on an ancient Greek settlement founded in 734 BC. For a time it even rivaled Athens as the most important city of the Greek world.
Continue reading "Arriving in Syracusa, Sicily - Italy" »
Air? We flew Chicago-Milan and then to Catania, the closest airport to Syracusa where the group would meet. flyCheapo shows many different airlines from all over Europe. Check Alitalia, Meridiana and Air Europe who all fly from Italy.
Trains? Catania is a 10-hour train ride from Rome (there are about eight a day), and once in Sicily, you can easily train to Palermo, Agrigento, Messina and Taormina. Most transport is very inexpensive.
Ferry? Ferries and hydrofoils cross the Straits of Messina from either Villa San Giovanni or Reggio di Calabria on the Mainland. The hydrofoil only takes about 25 minutes to arrive in Messina.
Continue reading "Planning "Classical Sicily" - Italy" »
Sicily plays a major role in every gangster movie I've ever seen but few people know that it is the place to see some of the best preserved Greco-Roman sights in the Mediterranean. And people also rave about the excellent food and wine (including my daughter's Venetian father-in-law).
It takes a little searching to find a tour that:
- Is relatively inexpensive; and
- Includes more walking and hiking than just sitting on a bus
With that in mind, I went looking in my favorite "Explore" catalog to see what they had in Sicily. There it was....an offer we couldn't refuse. A 10-day trip called "Classical Sicily" starting in Syracusa (no, not Syracuse, NY) and ending in Taormina with a stop at Corleone (there really is such a place), the center of the "Godfather Region." It included day-hiking, and was just long enough to hit the major sites...this was for me!
Continue reading "Sicily Italy - Land of The "Godfather"" »
Most people go to Italy to see ancient ruins, eat wonderful food and drink great wine. I thought that was what we were going to do when I foolishly planned a trip with "ex-Marine" (husband, Steve), and our five (two mine, three his) children. (Yes, I do have lots of "screws loose in my head.") And, if you read some of my other articles, you know that I am also incredibly naive!
Early in our marriage, I asked "ex-Marine" if...I scrimped and saved most of my earnings for one year...would he be willing to take the five "darlings" to Europe for one month? Still euphoric over our marriage, he said YES! (Silly him...)
Continue reading "Looking for Beer Cans in Italy" »
There was a direct bus to Florence. We took our own bags today because other than the included hotel, the trip was over.
Sherpa booked us into the Hotel Adam, well-situated and extremely busy. Florence is one of those places that I would hesitate visiting in season without a reservation.
This was our third trip to Florence, but there is always something new to see and re-do.
We wandered around the Piazza del Duomo, Piazza Della Signoria, window-shopped on the Ponte Vecchio eyeballing all the jewelry shops. Almost every single shop on the Ponte Vecchio was displaying an American Flag which started both of us crying again.
A walk through the Boboli Gardens next to the Pitti Palace, and some Gelato helped, until we actually PAID for the Gelato.
Tip #3 - NEVER order Gelato (ice cream), or anything, without asking or looking for a price list on the wall. Learn from our unthinking experience - the Gelato turned out to be about $7 US per ice cream cone when every other Gelateria was 1/2 the price. Outrageous, because we stupidly didn't ask the cost.
Continue reading "Panzano-in-Chianti to Florence, Italy" »
On Day 10, we chose the Radda to Panzano route via Volpaia. There were four other ways to go but one was inadvisable because of HUNTING SEASON. (I'd hate to be mistaken for "Little Bunny Foo Foo.")
leaving Radda
The trail was waymarked with red/white and yellow/blue signs. Route-finding should be fairly straight-forward today. Through vineyards, and roads in the direction of Volpaia. Volpaia is a beautifully restored village with narrow lanes, leading from one square to another.
Notes from today: "....cross the square and go up the right of the Castello wine shop opposite. Go straight on out of the village. After 10 minutes or so you pass the last of the olive groves on the right." Explicit, yes?
We passed picnic areas, and descended to the main square of Panzano. Tonight's stop was La Piazzetta Bed & Breakfast.
Notice the flags?
Panzano sits on the ridge surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. The village has Roman origins but only a stretch of paved road remains among fields and gardens.
Continue reading "Volpaia to Panzano - Chianti Country, Italy" »
On Day 8, a taxi ride to the beginning of the walk (cost included). This was one of my favorite walking days because we were in the Chianti Classico region, and it was grape picking season. (Move over, Lucy, and we'll help stomp those grapes!)
There was vineyard after vineyard (some fenced off), and one workman insisted on giving us grapes to eat when we stopped to watch them. There were also cypress tress, pines, olive groves, and many fields to walk through.
Directions to Signora Baldini, in Radda (our stop for two nights) went something like this: "...proceed 200 metres past the Agip station, fork right, then left over the bridge and follow the main road into town. There is no sidewalk/pavement. You reach the old hilltop town centre at the Valdarno gate. Walk through the gate and straight through the town and out the other gate. Straight ahead onto the main road downhill. On the right, a block of houses with a stretch of red pavement in front. Mrs. Baldini's house is the second one."
It was a real treat staying with Mrs. Baldini. Her house has rooms for guests in a small garden (downhill a bit from the main house) overlooking the valley and hills of Radda. She spoke no English, but we managed with a few words of Italian and lots of hand signals. Mrs. Baldini's daughter spoke fluent English. We had a very lovely room, and the next morning, Mrs. Baldini trotted downhill carrying Bruschetta, tomatoes, fruit, coffee and omelets. (I had trouble with the incline to her house in hiking boots without carrying a tray loaded with enough food for four persons!) We offered to come up to the main house for breakfast to lighten the load, but she wouldn't hear of it. What a wonderful lady. It is so much more fun meeting and staying with the people, than big hotels.
Dinner was included one night, and the other we ate at the charming Pizzeria Da Michele. Really good food! Restaurant eating is tricky throughout Italy because you never know what evening one may be closed. For example, one closes on a Tuesday, another on a Thursday, etc.
Continue reading "Radda-in-Chianti, Italy" »
Day 6 had two walk options and called for three maps to navigate, but both walks ended up on a road to take a public bus into Siena. (Sherpa even tells you to carry bus tickets with you for the ride.)
Started off on way-marked tracks (waymarks means there is red paint - blazes - or route numbers on trees, etc.) through Ebbio, (trip notes: ".... keep on up past the grey marble sculpture of an angel and a butterfly. The dogs may be noisy."), Monte Morio on old mule paths, through thick forests that cover the Siena Hills, Fungaia (Sherpa said to look out for vipers here), finishing in S. Columba where we caught the bus to Siena. A red-letter day for us...didn't get lost!
The bus station was an easy walk to the Hotel Minerva, our hotel for two nights.
The next day was reserved for sight-seeing around Siena. The motto inscribed above the Camollia Gate translates to, "Siena opens its heart even wider to you." The City is set on three steep hills, and extensive walls surround it.
The black and white striped Cathedral can be seen for miles around.
Duomo
Cathedral construction was begun in the 12th century, but not completed until the 14th century, interrupted by small things like the Plague, quarrels about the design, etc. The Campanile (belltower) is the most striking part - horizontal light and dark marble which makes those unusual stripes.
Continue reading "Visiting Siena, Italy" »
Day 4 - There is only one walk from San Gimignano to Colle di Val d'Elsa. I hated to leave San Gimignano, and could easily have spent another day, just wandering around. That's how charming it was. But, we had to move on.
We walked through the Focu valley, and Borgatello to Colle Alto, through villages, fording a stream. Tuscany was hillier than we expected since the trip was only graded Moderate. A little of today's route finding notes: "...turn off left on to a white road. After 100m, the white road bends left; go straight ahead (on right of the pine wood) onto a footpath. The path may be somewhat overgrown and scratchy, but it is straight and obvious and still passable." I have a map (in a large plastic baggie) hanging around my neck, and trip notes in hand, religiously following the directions.
Colle di Val d'Elsa is another medieval town built on a ridge.
We walked the entire length of town (which didn't take very take long) and started our descent from the old quarter to the new town where our hotel is. We got lost trying to find the road down, but there was always someone to point the way (understood the pointing even though we don't understand the Italian). We'd walk in the direction of the "point", find another person to ask, follow that "point", until we arrived at the Hotel La Vecchio Cartiera in the new town.
After walking 13 km., there was no way we were going to walk back up to the old town for dinner so just grabbed a pizza in the area, and watched all the young people strolling around the square.
Day 5 - Today's highlight was the walk to the village of Monteriggioni, with its 17 towers. It is a 16km. walk and should take about 5 hours. We've run into many bikers doing the same route as us.
Continue reading "San Gimignano, Colle di Val d'Elsa and Monteriggioni, Italy" »
Day 3 started with a taxi transfer (included in the cost) and a choice of two walks to San Gimignano
We chose the Pignano variation, through the village of San Donato. The restaurant in San Donato lets you taste wines and, of course, sells them. The Fattoria San Donato (Fattoria means "farm") also sells wine, oil and honey. Already, the walk sounded promising. Headed towards another Fattoria di Castelvecchio, over riverbeds, up tracks to Castelvecchio. They are starting to excavate Castelvecchio, a long abandoned medieval village. From there, we walked via San Donato to San Gimignano.
Part of our written directions after San Donato: "....watch out here if a lady in curlers jumps out of the farm and asks you round to the barn next door for degustation...she will try to sell you some of her old 1993 stock of Chianti which she says is very mature and has a warming bouquet. In other words, it has gone off (turned) and probably tastes more like sherry than Chianti."
The first sight of San Gimignano is amazing. Perched on a hill with 14 grey stone towers, it looks exactly like the movie (Tea With Mussolini) that inspired my visit. Etruscan in origin, and was one of the most important trading centers in Central Tuscany. In 949, San Gimignano was incorporated as a city and the first set of city walls were built in 998. A second ring of walls was built in 1199. Quarters were always tight within the walls, and homes were built above their shops. It is a mixture of styles: Sienese Gothic, striped Pisan Romanesque and Florentine early Renaissance. (Not that I could tell you the differences between these!)
Continue reading "Moving On Toward San Gimignano, Italy" »
Another public bus from Lucca to Volterra (our two-night stay), which is where our Inn-to-Inn would start.
Volterra was a Stone Age settlement, enclosed within Etruscan and Medieval walls. It stands on a hill, and its two main industries are working of alabaster, and saltpans where table salt and soda are produced. All towns we visited were quite small, and easy to get around.
Day 1 was considered an arrival day. The bus stopped outside the arched gateway to the town and the Hotel San Lino was only a few minutes walk from there. View image Dinner was included the first night, and Sherpa recommended five different restaurants to choose from for the second night.
Day 2 - There were two options for the walk today: round trip from Bivio di Pignana and back to Volterra; and an easy walk from Volterra to Saline di Volterra with a return to Volterra by bus.
We picked the first option, an 18 km walk (goal-oriented is my middle name). Started off toward Pignano, a very small village (or hamlet) with 12th century walls. There were wonderful views of the countryside from it. Walked to Monte Voltraio for a little diversion, up past lovely old oaks. Sherpa's detailed instructions usually read something like this: "...Go left here, as the path winds past and between fallen trees. Once on the summit ridge, go left (south) for a grassy lookout point, much messed by sheep droppings." Don't say you weren't warned!
Wound through other footpaths and trails, olive fields, returning to Volterra.
Continue reading "Easy Ramblingin Volterra, Italy" »
We took a public bus directly to Lucca from Florence, walked to the Information Office and asked them to help find a hotel for three nights. They found a beautiful hotel (that would ordinarily be too expensive for us) at a low rate because of all the 9/11 cancellations. The hotel, Palazzo Alexander is in the center of Lucca's historic district, inside the old walls. The hotel dates from the 12th century and the decor reflects Lucchese style with antique wood floors, marble. An elegant room, and sumptuous breakfast was included.
Thick, 16th century walls surround Lucca for a distance of (approximately) 3 km, and you can walk or bike along the top of the entire perimeter! The walls are tree-lined on the top, very wide and have great views of the old city.
trees on top of wall
The other main point of interest is the Roman Amphitheatre (Piazza dell 'Anfiteatro), built in the 1st century A.D. It was destroyed during the Barbarian invasions, and a good part of the material was used in building homes and churches bordering the Piazza.
Lucca map
Continue reading "Discovering Lucca and Viareggio, Italy" »
Treasures of Tuscany is either booked as a seven or 11-day tour with options to build in extra days or rest days. Before departure, Sherpa sends an exceptionally detailed route book with:
- Arrival and departure possibilities
- Comprehensive local train/bus schedules with approximate costs, where and how to purchase and validate tickets, etc.
- Enormous package of maps, one ( sometimes several) for each day, routes highlighted, (along with deviations if that is your preference)
- Recommended restaurants in each town
- Sights to see - museums, markets, etc.
- Hotel information for your stay with inclusions at each place (always breakfast, some dinners)
- Local contact information
Their trips also include luggage transport between hotels. All you carry is your daypack.
Continue reading "Walking (or Biking) Tuscany , Italy" »
When I think of Tuscany, fascinating old towns, wine growing regions and wonderful food come to mind. Recent movies have moved Tuscany to the forefront of travel wish lists by their depiction ...Tea With Mussolini...and Under the Tuscan Sun to name two. Tea With Mussolini incorporated stupendous views of San Gimignano and that was it...I had to see it for myself.
Sherpa Expeditions (based in the U.K.) had Treasures of Tuscany in their catalog - an Independent Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour. This would be self-guided, but they also have escorted walking/biking tours that visit the same areas. Request one of their brochures and see for yourself.
Continue reading "Walking Through Tuscany, Italy, Inn-to-Inn" »
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