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I firmly believe that family traveling is one of the most rewarding parts of life. It's an opportunity that may never come again and just takes a lot of planning and flexibility. We had three glorious days to talk and share experiences with Sarah's undivided attention. Not like the usual phone calls or visits where I ask.."What's new?" and they reply..."Nothing"...while I.M.'ing to friends, i-Pod earbuds on, the television on and heavy metal music all going at one time. There was just the three of us for almost four straight days.
Sarah's, 13-year old teenage thoughts:
- Rome was a ball and is already planning where she should travel when she graduates college and lives with her parents (Michael...Paula...are you ready for this? No job...just travel?)
- What is a bidet and how do you use it?
- Roman baths were gross. How could everyone bath together and why was it a big social event?
- The people at the 5**** Hassler Hotel across the street were snobs.
 photo taken by Sarah looking down the Spanish Steps
Continue reading "Traveling With Teenagers (or Children)" »
The driver took us back to Fumincino Airport for check-in at Lufthansa. Our return entailed a short Rome to Frankfurt flight, overnight at the IBIS Hotel and fly home to Chicago on United early the next day. Lufthansa offered to check our bags all the way through to Chicago. Sounded good to us, took out some clean clothes for the night and checked those bags through.
In a lounge until flight time. Sarah loved the Lufthansa flight and thought they were the greatest. Lufthansa had:
- Little Diet Coke and Sprite Cans in German..."Grandma, aren't they cute?"... (Had to wash them out and take as souvenirs.);
- Cheese sandwiches on a cheese bread. (Got an extra one from the flight attendant and she snarfed both down); and
- Interesting wax paper bags the sandwiches were served in. Each bag described a different fruit or vegetable in German and English along with its origin.
 Sarah inside a Rome airport lounge
Continue reading "Sarah says: Arrivederci, Roma" »
No one could have asked for a more wonderful last day in Rome. Not a cloud in the sky and hot! Breakfast and then we have to finish packing. Today Sarah ate Jif Peanut Butter on bread along with Honey Nut Cherrios. Many evenings she'd eat some of the dry cereal as a snack before going to bed.
Final packing over with Sarah's presents locked in our suitcase (TSA lock), we took them out of the room and left with the owner until 4:00 pm when the driver would take us to Fuimincino Airport. We had a plan. The first stop? Trevi Fountain where there was only a small amount of people this early and Sarah was able to throw her coins into the fountain to ensure she returns to Rome one day....View image...
 Sarah throwing important coins in the Trevi Fountain
Continue reading "Sarah's Last Day in Rome: Much To See and Do" »
Rome is very, very crowded this week. Easter Week, Spring Break in many countries, families with small children, school groups, locals, tourists from every country in the world. I knew the lines at the Sistine Chapel would be long and were advised to go around lunch time. We did, but still....
The line stretched for blocks, creeping towards the one and only Vatican entrance unless you pay for a tour. Tour groups enter differently and free-lance tour guides stationed themselves along the line offering tours (expensive tours). We crept slowly onward until we reached security. Everything goes through the x-ray machines, you step through the sensors and once through, you must check backpacks. Then, buy expensive tickets and enter.
 around the Vatican
Continue reading "Sarah's 2nd Afternoon in Rome: The Sistine Chapel" »
I had just dropped off into a deep sleep last night when I heard someone crying. Sarah was a little homesick, couldn't sleep because Grandpa Sonny was snoring and there were too many noisy cars outside. A little comfort, few hugs, poked Grandpa to make him stop snoring and she fell asleep. For the next two nights, the two of us will use ear plugs.
Up around 7:30 am for breakfast. I came equipped with Honey Nut Cheerios , Cocoa Puffs, individual packs of Jif Peanut Butter, lunch-size packs of Doritos and Potato Chips AND one Kraft Easy Mac n' Cheese just in case Ms. Finicky Eater didn't like the food. Sure enough. The bread was okay, she didn't like the milk and ate Cocoa Puffs dry and I nuked the Kraft Easy Mac n' Cheese in the B&B's microwave.
 approaching the Pantheon
Continue reading "Sarah's 2nd Morning in Rome: Fountains, Pantheon and Castel Sant'Angelo" »
The B&B was picked by me for location...location...location... Right by the Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti). Left backpacks and bags at All'Obelisco and immediately started taking pictures, walked down the Spanish Steps lined at the bottom with all the big-name designer stores. Dior, Prada, etc., with their stratospheric prices. ...View image... They actually have to gall to put prices in the windows. Probably deters riff-raff like us from setting foot in the stores. A pair of mini-shorts for 1,500 Euros? That's $2,300 U.S. Dollars at today's conversion! These places are only for the Paris Hiltons of the world.
Instead of Fendi, McDonald's down the street. Sarah was hungry. She said her stomach was telling her dinner time but McDonald's didn't start serving until 10:15 am. That was okay. We just hung out and waited for them to fire up the fryers. By the way, if you every need a toilet in any country, McDonald's is the place to go. Always clean bathrooms. A caveat: In some countries, you must eat there and show your receipt to use the bathrooms. Must show it to a guard. (Just so you know before you go.)
 YES...we are here in Rome
Continue reading "Sarah's First Day in Rome" »
We have no private jet (what a surprise...) and have "schlepper class" seats (economy). Chicago to Washington, DC and then Washington to Rome on United. There are direct flights on Alitalia and American Airlines from Chicago but we are loyal United flyers and Sarah is on a free ticket (turned in miles). Because we do fly so much on United, we burned some upgrade certificates and Sarah and ex-Marine ("Grandpa") will sit in Business Class on the way from Washington, DC to Rome while I sit back in economy.
Sarah arrived at our house hours before she needed to because she was so excited and wanted to head right out to the airport. Just what we needed...a few extra hours sitting around O'Hare... ex-Marine also volunteers at O'Hare Airport and a very nice United person gave us a personal invite into the First Class Lounge. That made the waiting a lot easier and talk about spoiling a teenager from the get-go. Sarah may never be the same again...
 excited Sarah waiting in the United lounge
Continue reading "Sarah Flies and Arrives in Rome" »
Major Concerns?
- How do you make Roman History interesting to a teenager? It's dry and, sorry history buffs, pretty boring. Sarah's homework was to buy a few guidebooks, read them, and decide what her important "must sees" were. Her tentative decision: We'll plan on hitting the highlights - Roman Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon and definitely St. Peter's and the Sistine Chapel. Other than that, we'll spend most of the time around the fountains, walking through Rome, stopping when something interests her and of, course, shopping.
- She is a very picky vegetarian eater. Doesn't like a lot of different vegetables, only pizza with tomatoes and cheese, no ravioli or other filled pastas, won't eat fish... Solution: I'm packing two boxes of her favorite dry cereals, Doritos, Potato Chips, and small cups of peanut butter for emergencies. There will always be spaghetti, pizza, Gelato and french fries at McDonald's. For three days, Sarah can live on this easily.
Continue reading "Planning Rome With A Teenager" »
There's nothing like a family trip to building memories that will last a lifetime, especially one memorable month (1978) in Europe with five children, age 9 to 16 years. This never-to-be-forgotten chaoatic, frustrating, dramatic experience did nothing to change my mind about traveling with children. Even with the unforgettable memories of:
- Robyn (14) upchucking her spaghetti dinner in our pensione sink, clogging up the drain and driving the little maid crazy trying to unclog i;
- All five youngsters rooting through and under the garbage in Florence, looking for unique empty beer cans to take back to America because Michael (16) decided it would make a great collection;
- Tracie (15) sulking because she was missing "parties" at home until Nice when cute French boys materialized;
- Jamie (9) only loved the pigeons and remembers nothing else about Europe;
- Joel (14) kept us in stitches when he wasn't reducing Jamie to tears by calling her "monkey";
- ex-Marine (husband, Steve) pounding down an Amsterdam street, shouting he was going to kill the first chld he could get his hands on after they send him "over the bend" one too many times;
- A noteable crying scene in a Rome restaurant (not far from the Spanish Steps) when the entire family melted down in tears, and stormed out with ex-Marine shouting he was returning to the U.S. (That lasted until he found out how much return tickets would cost!)
 kids spead out on a train platform in Europe, passing the time
Continue reading "Visiting Rome With A Teenager (Or Child)" »
There were many different hiking options around Portovenere . It was possible to finish the "official" Cinque Terre primarily going up and down through the little towns, or veer onto the high road climbing through vineyards and hills from Portovenere surrounding the Gulf of La Spezia. We decided to hike from Portovenere to Colle del Telegrafo, following castle walls, with its beautiful views of the coast even though Portovenere isn't one of the five official Cinque Terre villages. One of the trails began in the center and climbed up a long flight of stone stairs along the old fortress into the hills. The views stretched to La Spezia in one direction and the hills of the Cinque Terre in the other. Through Campiglia, a pine forest, down steep stairs to Riomaggiore. Without getting too lost, there was still time to walk a section of the trail (not as narrow) from Manarola to Corniglia FS Station (train station) and wait for the train back to Santa Margherita. The trails are very well marked but sometimes I miss a blaze (a bright red or orange mark on a tree or rock showing the direction). If you ever hike a distance without seeing a blaze, do a fast reverse and circle around until the trail is obvious.
This entire section of the Ligurian coast is surrounded with stone walls around vineyards, built without any cement and steep terraces dropping all the way down to the sea. The Cinque Terre is a National Park and Protected Marine Area... honestly, it is drop-dead gorgeous. The entire area was beyond description...
Cinque Terre Part #2
Continue reading "Portovenere and On To Lake Garda" »
Many people decide to travel and visit areas in Europe based on historical sites, churches, etc. Our main focus is: what kind of outdoor activity is there to work off all the calories we will eat and drink. Even in our old Marathon running days, the two of us could eat up to and beyond every calorie burned off.
The Ligurian Coast offered plenty of opportunities for day hikes and walks along with its renown as Pesto heaven and wonderful Italian wines. Lots of reading and time spent on the Italian Tourism Internet Site and Liguria Tourist Bureau trying to make a decision on where to stay and how many days in each place, the most difficult part for me. You want to stay someplace nice without paying a fortune but hope the hotel you chose doesn't turn out to be a dump. Not easy to decide...
Ligurian Coast Map
Continue reading "Planning A Visit To The Ligurian Coast and Lake Garda" »
It would have been almost sacreligious to be in the Naples area and not visit Pompeii. The Circumvesuviana train runs between Sorrento and Naples (no bus) with a stop at Pompei Scavi/Villa dei Misteri. You can buy a single ticket, valid one day for Pompeii only, or a ticket that gives access to five sites - Herculaneum, Pompeii, Oplontis, Stabiae and Boscoreale - valid for three days. It was also easy to hire audio cassettes or a real guide once there. We chose to wander around on our own with aid of a map.
Almost everyone knows the history of Pompeii, buried by Mt. Vesuvius' eruption in 79AD. Pompeii was considered a large city for its time, and even more cosmopolitan than Rome, a several days’ journey from Pompeii. It held administrative control over the neighboring suburbs, and was a center for trade in crops, wine, and olive oil.
Pompeii layout
Continue reading "Pompeii and Arrivederci To The Amalfi Coast" »
It was time to bus to the Northern Coast, Sorrento and Hotel El Nido. Sorrento has a wonderful network of paths: coast-to-coast; between towns; easy or difficult; and almost all accessible by public transportation from either the beginning of your walk or the end. I can't encourage you enough to take even short little strolls into the countryside. It gives you a chance to really savor the views, chat with friendly locals and other like-minded walkers, escape the crowds and burn off a few pasta, vino and gelato calories. Some of the trails are blazed with CAI red and white marks and others with orange marks to guide you along over old mule paths, alleys and little villages. And the views of Sorrento and the peninsula are breathtaking from the top.
Ehen we weren't making little excursions into the hills, there was plenty of time to take El Nido's shuttle or a public bus down into Sorrento, browsing and eating.
Continue reading "Sorrento" »
There is a non-stop flow of ferry traffic to and from Capri departing from Naples, Amalfi, Positano or Sorrento. And an equal amount of tourists. Everyone arrives at Marina Grande where there are taxis, buses and hotels waiting to pick up their guests for transport up to Capri Town and/or Anacapri both at the top of the island. The boat excursions to the famous Blue Grotto also depart from here. Or you could take the funicular (with its very long lines) up.
We decided to walk up to Capri town via the Phoenician steps (Scala Fenicia) built in the middle ages. Almost all commerce, people and goods, had to use these steps up to Capri town. A road wasn't built until 1877 for vehicular traffic. The 995 steps between the Harbor and Town were repaired and opened to pedestrians in 1999. A piece of cake if you take your time and there are even railings on most portions.
Capri
Continue reading "Isle of Capri" »
What can I possibly say about Positano that hasn't already been said? Not very much. It has been called the most photographed fishing village in the world with its tiers of buildings up the mountain. We chose to visit in a different way. By getting off the bus in upper Positano and walking uphill to Santa Maria del Castello, Caserma Forestale, down to Monte Pertuso and then continue down through the lower town of Positano to the beach. The bus ride along the coast is visually stunning and extremely hair-raising on the Amalfi Drive. A narrow, snaking road that hugs the cliff 500 feet above sea level with major drop-offs on the sea-side. Huge buses, trucks and autos all speeding along this two-lane road passing each other on the turns as well as the straightaways. Gave me the heebie-jeebies, but other than approach by sea, it's the Amalfi Drive or nothing.
There were two trail variations up towards Santa Maria del Castello and one was shadier than the other. That was our choice...it was darn hot and this was only May. The heat makes it almost impossible (and dangerous) to walk these trails during the summer.
Positano
Continue reading "A Day Around Positano" »
After a wonderful breakfast on the balcony overlooking Amalfi, it was a left turn out the Villa Lara's gate onto the Valle dei Mulini (Valley of the Mills) running slightly uphill. Amalfi was a center for papermaking in the 12th century. Natural waterpower ensured cost-effective handmade paper but a major flood in 1954 closed most of the mills for good. We passed by the Museo della Carta with paper samples, old machinery, etc. but didn't go in. The day was too beautiful to be indoors. There were many streams and trees, the path was good and headed up towards Pontone after 1-1/1/2 miles.
Pontone is a pretty little village (aren't they all) with a drinking fountain in the square but instead of lingering, we walked through the square, past the Church of San Filippo Neri and continued up to Minuta. This section was more strenous but only about a half-hour from Pontone At Minuta, we had a choice. Should we head back down to Amalfi or continue going on to Ravello visible in the distance? Towards Ravello it was...
portion of a typical walking map
Continue reading "Hiking Amalfi-Pontone-Ravello-Atrani" »
The end of May is usually a perfect time to visit Italy before it gets beastly hot, and this trip was no exception. Chicago-Frankfurt-Naples...on the train (whose ultimate destination was Sicily)...a train is the only way to travel in Europe ...off in Salerno...walk to the pier...wait for the ferry under a clear blue sky and very hot sun. (We did have to ask for directions many times to find the pier, but people were very helpful. "Scusi" and "Grazie" are the most important Italian words in the vocabulary!) A beautiful ferry ride on the Bay of Salerno to Amalfi. The coast is incredibly stunning with all the little fishing villages stretched out on the Bay. The Amalfi coast was designated a World Heritage sight because the Committee considers "...that the Costiera Amalfitana is an outstanding example of a Mediterranean landscape, with exceptional cultural and natural scenic values resulting from its dramatic topography and historical evolution..."
Amalfi was easy to fall in love with. Just rolling our suitcases through the little town, past the Duamo, souvenir shops, lemons and tomatoes everywhere, and stands selling umpteen flavors of Gelato was exciting. I loved it on sight.
the Duamo
Continue reading "Arriving in Amalfi" »
Air? That was the easy part. United Airlines from Chicago-Frankfurt and then we used miles for free economy tickets on Lufthansa, to fly Frankfurt-Naples. There are many different ways of getting to Naples, your main destination for the Coast. Check them all out for lowest prices...highest in the summer months... little less in Sping and Fall (we were going at the end of May).
Where to Stay? After weeks of vacillating between the different towns, we decided to stay in Amalfi for six nights, visiting Ravello, Positano, and Capri on day trips. Then, bus to Sorrento and spend four nights there, making a short excursion to Pompeii.
Continue reading "Sorrentine/Amalfi Coast Planning" »
It is almost impossible to find an area in Italy that I don't like. Scenery, history, food and wine......everything is wonderful. Once you have visited the important to-do's - Rome, Florence, Venice - it's time to explore the rest of the country.
Ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I have visited: Sicily (reviewed 7/28-8/6/06 with Explore Co., U.K.); Tuscany (reviewed 5/27-6/5/06 with Sherpa Expeditions); hiked and snow-shoed in the Italian Alps (Cortina, Merano, Ortesi...to name a few); and spent time in Italy's magnificent Lake Districts (Como, Maggiore, Lugano and Orta). It was inevitable that sooner or later we'd work our way towards the famous Amalfi Coast, known as "Sea of Ulysses, Land of the Sirens" and playground for the rich and famous. A plus was the entire peninsula is criss-crossed with marked hiking trails.
Continue reading "The Amalfi Coast On Your Own" »
Day 4 - There is only one walk from San Gimignano to Colle di Val d'Elsa. I hated to leave San Gimignano, and could easily have spent another day, just wandering around. That's how charming it was. But, we had to move on.
We walked through the Focu valley, and Borgatello to Colle Alto, through villages, fording a stream. Tuscany was hillier than we expected since the trip was only graded Moderate. A little of today's route finding notes: "...turn off left on to a white road. After 100m, the white road bends left; go straight ahead (on right of the pine wood) onto a footpath. The path may be somewhat overgrown and scratchy, but it is straight and obvious and still passable." I have a map (in a large plastic baggie) hanging around my neck, and trip notes in hand, religiously following the directions.
Colle di Val d'Elsa is another medieval town built on a ridge.
We walked the entire length of town (which didn't take very take long) and started our descent from the old quarter to the new town where our hotel is. We got lost trying to find the road down, but there was always someone to point the way (understood the pointing even though we don't understand the Italian). We'd walk in the direction of the "point", find another person to ask, follow that "point", until we arrived at the Hotel La Vecchio Cartiera in the new town.
After walking 13 km., there was no way we were going to walk back up to the old town for dinner so just grabbed a pizza in the area, and watched all the young people strolling around the square.
Day 5 - Today's highlight was the walk to the village of Monteriggioni, with its 17 towers. It is a 16km. walk and should take about 5 hours. We've run into many bikers doing the same route as us.
Continue reading "San Gimignano, Colle di Val d'Elsa and Monteriggioni" »
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