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- A Boat Ride on Pichola Lake, Udaipur - Rajasthan, India
- The Suites of The Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur - Rajasthan, India
- The Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur - Rajasthan, India
- The Adinath Jain Temples of Ranakpur - Rajasthan, India
- The Roads and Sights of Rajasthan, India
- The Archaic Practice of Suttee/Sati in Jodhpur - Rajasthan, India
- The Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur - Rajasthan, India
- Mehrangarh Museum and The Blue Houses of Jodhpur
- Jaswant Thada Cenotaph and Mandore - Rajasthan, India
- The Prince's Suite at Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel, Jodhpur - Rajasthan, India
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I would think that all the boat tours of Pichola Lake follow the same routes with only the starting point differing. The lakes around Udaipur were created by building dams to meet the drinking water and irrigation needs of Udaipur. Only two islands are located within Pichola Lake and developed with palaces. Our group boat tour began at the Lake Palace Hotel once called Jag Niwas. This was the 18th century creation of Rana Jagat Singh II who it is said constructed the palace in response to his father's statement that....if he wanted to stay in an island palace like that on Jag Mandir Island, he should build his own... Is that anything like, "You can do whatever you want with your money after you are of legal age?"
Jag Mandir is the other island in Pichola Lake and contains the 17th century Jag Mandir Palace, one of the oldest and most grandiose palaces in Rajasthan. The palace was constructed by Maharana Karan Singh as a hideout for Prince Khurram, the son of a Rajput mother. This Prince Hurram later became Shah Jahan of Taj Mahal fame and it is said he incorporated many ideas for the Taj when he stayed here. One of the boat ride highlights is the row of life-size elephants that appear to be guarding the island.
Continue reading "A Boat Ride on Pichola Lake, Udaipur - Rajasthan, India" »
Much of the Lake Palace Hotel's beauty has to do with location, location, location. What is there not to like about a resplendent palace sitting in the middle of a lake that has open-air courtyards, a marble swimming pool and magnificent terraces. The Monsoon Palace looms high above in the Aravalli Mountains while more palaces can be seen on the shoreline. The Monsoon Palace was built by Maharana Saijian Singh (see...I told you they are all named "Singh") to basically watch the monsoon clouds. It is now under the control of the Government of Rajasthan and has only been opened to the public recently (not open when we visited Udaipur).
It was time to look at a few of the Lake Palace hotel suites to see what the additional charges would be. You only live once...so...why not! And, to add weight to a "suite stay," the concierge told us that the Royal Butlers are descendants of the original palace retainers. Shown to three different suites, we finally settled on the least expensive of the three, the Sandhya Suite.
Continue reading "The Suites of The Lake Palace Hotel, Udaipur - Rajasthan, India" »
The Lake Palace Hotel is out of a dream covering an entire island in the Pichola Lake. Perhaps you've watched the old James Bond film, Octopussy, filmed at the Lake Palace Hotel and will recognize some of my photos. The getting there is half the fun. All guests arrive via water transport that is special from the get-go. Guests go through a dedicated, ornamental gate that leads to the Lake Palace boat pier. Motor out on peaceful Pichola Lake with views of the Lake Palace Hotel floating serenely before you. ...View image . Gently deposited at the entrance, we were greeted with garlands of flowers and a tikka/bindi put on my forehead while we waited to check-in. FYI: I didn't have the foggiest idea exactly what a tikka/bindi meant (my thinking was Chicken Tikka, one of our favorite Indian dishes - WRONG) and have since found out. Many believe it is suppose to be representative of the mystic third eye and become the central point of the base of creation. Well...all-righty now.
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The village of Ranakpur is located in a valley between Jodhpur and Udaipur and widely known for two temples. A marble Jain Temple and much older Sun Temple which lies opposite the former.
If you're interested in finding out what the Jain religion is, and I know I was since this is a famous Temple, Jainism is... a dualistic religion founded in the 6th century B.C. as a revolt against current Hinduism. It emphasizes the perfectibility of human nature and liberation of the soul, esp. through asceticism and nonviolence toward all living creatures. I hope you understand this. Must confess that I'm still at sea...
There were quite a few rules posted outside the temple with instructions for visitors. This included no photographing of images, proper dress, non-vegetarian food allowed, etc...View image...and a few other rules that didn't apply to us. There are many distinctive features in the grand temple with one of the most important being the exquisitely detailed carvings that appear on practically every temple surface.
Continue reading "The Adinath Jain Temples of Ranakpur - Rajasthan, India" »
It was time to leave the last of the Rajasthani great forts behind and begin the ride to Udaipur with a stop at Ranakpur to see the Jain Temples on the way...View image. You may have never visited India and even if you have, perhaps it wasn't a driving trip. Fortunately, there are many new airlines like Kingfisher and Jet Airlines that fly to these distant area.
Unfortunately, there are times that you still have to drive on India's roads. For ex-Marine and myself, Indian Road is just another word for atrocious. Granted, there are roads like this in other countries but they have mitigating excuses. Smaller, poorer, and less man power. India had the second highest growth in the world among major economies in 2009. India has a population of over 1 billion people. India has Bollywood. Why can't India build decent roads? One ride that we still dwell on was from Kanha to Bandhavgarh. It took six hours of agonizing, jolting and swerving over pot holes to go maybe 70 miles ! Can you believe six hours to drive 70 miles?
Now that we have an understanding about what the majority of the roads are like once you leave a city, let's talk about Incredible India's road sights that make it worthwhile. Rajasthan has colorfully dressed women working and walking on the roads, carrying heavy baskets with stones on their heads, threshing in colorful saris of gold, pink, vivid oranges and wearing armfuls of bangles. Not only that but they are so graceful. Every now and then you'll spot men wearing equally bright turbans.
Continue reading "The Roads and Sights of Rajasthan, India" »
One of the most disturbing sights in Rajasthan took place earlier in this series when we saw a small suttee handprint. Just the thought of a person immolating their self makes me ill. This even turns my stomach whenever I read horrific stories about someone pouring gasoline on another person and even severe third degree burns since I'm deadly afraid of fire. Burns are also one of the most horrific and painful injuries to a body.
There are seven gates into the Mehrangarh Fort and the final gate is called the Lohapol (Iron Gate) that leads to the cremation ground. As you pass through the gate, it would be impossible not to notice the 31 red hand prints carved into the sandstone.
If you never heard of the Hindu practice of suttee/sati, read and weep. When a Maharajah or one of the aristocracy died, his widow and many times concubines, had no further place in society. She was expected to dress in her best clothing, dip her hand in henna, and leave a handprint at the gate. The handprint was later cut around by stonemasons to make it permanent. From there, she would walk to her husband's funeral pyre. When Maharaja Ajit Singh died in 1731, six of his wives and 58 concubines burnt themselves to death on his funeral pyre. I had read of this practice in books but when I took my hand and placed it over the small handprints of these poor women, it brought me to tears.
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What a fort. Completely different from the Jaisalmer Fort but equally imposing. Jodhpur's Mehrangarh Fort lies in the heart of the old city and is located on a perpendicular cliff, four hundred feet above the town. It is considered "the finest living example of a Hindu fortress"....View image . Just when you think you've seen it all in Rajasthan, another stunning sight appears before your eyes. The fort walls stretch for 10km/6.2 miles, are up to 36m/118' high and 21m/70' wide. A person has to stand next to one to really get the scope and "Mehrangarh" means the Majestic Fort. Inside is the Mehrangarh Fort Museum, individual palaces and temples.
Jodhpur is the second largest city in the Indian State of Rajasthan. Mehrangarh Fort dates back to 1458 when Rao Jodha decided to shift his capital from since the old Mandore Fort was no longer strong and safe to Jodhpur. However, most of the fort still standing dates from the period of Jaswant Singh (1638-78).
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The very interesting Mehrangarh Museum...View image...is located within the fort walls. Tourists usually spend one hour there (if you're lucky) but I suggest hunkering down for at least half a day if you have the time. We didn't and rushed through looking at the most important sights of which the Elephant Howdah Gallery is Number One on the Hit Parade...
Elephants have always been important for warfare and ceremonies. They are valued for their immense strength and intelligence and their ability to be trained. All you have to do is visit Thailand and one of their many elephant camps to be bowled over. Watch the video below from Chiang Dao Elephant Camp and you'll see exactly what I mean. Royalty rode on the elephant's back in a Howdah (a seat or platform with a railing and canopy). Not just ordinary Howdahs but ones made of silver, encrusted with jewels and lavish as befitted their Royal status.
Continue reading "Mehrangarh Museum and The Blue Houses of Jodhpur" »
As if there wasn't enough to occupy the time inside Mehrangarh Fort and Museum in Jodhpur, other sights were located not too far from the fort. Jaswant Thada is the closest, only one kilometer away. Another eye-popping white marble sight in the arid desert that is more impressive from the distance. At first, we thought it was another palace. There were ancient and crumbling fort walls still winding their way through the hills. Small patches of green. Dry sand and nothingness. It's no wonder that this kingdom was once called Marwar, also known as the "Land of Dead."
This architectural landmark was built to commemorate Maharaja Jaswant Singh in 1899 and it was difficult to comprehend that it was just a cenotaph (monument). There are two more tombs inside and Jaswant Thada is a traditional cremation ground of Jodhpur rulers. Walk around to visit the gazebos, gardens, and a small lake before you leave.
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We're here to tell you that the traditional method of keeping cool by water evaporation doesn't work. An entire night spent drenched in sweat convinced us to change suites right after breakfast into one of the 98 air conditioned rooms. They are all elegantly decorated with antique furniture in British Raj style for a real taste of old India, "The Jewel in The Crown." If you are a modernist, the Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel is not your cup of tea. On the flip side, if you love antiquey atmosphere, the Umaid Bhawan is for you. The Umaid Bhawan Palace is considered an "Art Deco" monument...View image. I think "mish-mosh" describes the style rather than Art Deco with a 105-foot high cupola influenced by the Renaissance, Rajput towers and British Raj interiors.
Breakfast out on a small section of the 28 acres of gardens and into the new suite before sightseeing. The Prince's suite. A smaller dining area (after all this was only a Prince suite, not the Maharajah), living quarters, bedroom...View image, bathroom and liveried servants in abundance. Our life as the "rich and famous" would be over in less than a week. If possible, stay in one of the many palace hotels of Rajasthan for one night and ask what the additional cost would be for a suite. You may be pleasantly surprised and isn't it worth living like a "Royal" for one night in your life?
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Another 290km/180 mile brutal, jolting ride to Jodhpur from Jaisalmer until finally, we thought our eyes were deceiving us and there was a mirage in the distance. A massive hunk of something loomed over the entire desert, and the closer we got, the larger it became until neither of us could believe what we beheld. This was the Umaid Bhawan Palace Hotel, a place that made our previous hotels look like little doll houses. A place that could almost put Buckingham Palace to shame. A 347-room palace that is one of the largest residences in the world and...this is where we were going to stay?
The Umaid Bhawan Palace is named after Maharaja Umaid Singh, grandfather of the present Maharaja of Jodhpur, took 15 years to construct, employed 3,000 artisans, and wasn't finished until 1943. In 1977, the palace was divided into a royal residence (the Jodhpur royal family still lives here), Heritage Hotel, and museum. I wouldn't say that anything of this magnitude could be called "homey" since it resembled a government building rather than a residence. but it certainly was imposing.
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A massive eeww, yuck and unusual sight was an actual bed of nails used by India's Yogis for centuries to meditatate. I can think of a lot easier ways to meditate than placing my body on nails. How about a crisp, cold glass of white wine while sitting under a hairdryer to create "white noise." Doesn't that sound more appealing?
It isn't supposed to be painful if the nails are numerous enough to distribute your body weight. Then, the pressure exerted by each nail would not be enough to break your skin. Ha...maybe, but what happens while getting on and off the nails. Isn't your body resting on just a few nails? Can you just levitate onto the nails? However it is done, count me out!
Continue reading "A Bed of Nails in Jaisalmer - Rajasthan, India" »
Jaisalmer lies in the heart of the Western Thar Desert with a population of about 78,000. It may be remote but is still loaded with all the necessary tourist services. Internet, ample hotels and banks. One of Jaisalmer's big tourist attractions is the Gadi Sagar Water Tank located south of the the city walls. This man-made reservoir was constructed by Raja Rawal Jaisal, the first ruler of Jaisalmer and was once Jaisalmer's only water supply. Built in 1367, there are many small temples and shrines around the tank. If you are a birder, visit Rajasthan in the winter months to see the wide variety of water birds that flock here. (I can't imagine visiting Rajasthan in the summer months - winter is the only time to visit unless you adore average temperatures of 45 Celsius/113 Fahrenheit.)
You enter through a magnificent and artistically carved yellow sandstone archway that is known as the Tilon-Ki-Pol. A story goes along with this entrance that it was supposedly built by a famous prostitute. When the prostitute offered to pay to have this gateway constructed, the Maharaja refused permission since he would have to pass under it going down to the tank and that, he felt, would be unseemly. While he was away, she built the gate anyway and added a Krishna temple on top of it so the king could not tear it down.
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The further a person travels into Rajasthan, the more unimaginable the sights become. Jaisalmer would be a show stopper anywhere in the world with its massive fort rising out of the Thar Desert. This is one of Rajasthan's most exotic and unusual towns. Built in 1156 by the Rajput ruller Jaisal, Jaisalmer Fort was built in the 17th century on Trikuta Hill, a sandstone outcropping rising 76m/250' above the town. The wall alone has 99 bastions with palaces and incredible Havelis inside, along with 25 percent of the population.
The coloring of Jaisalmer is always a golden color that deepens into a deep honey close to sunset (when you get the best pictures without the sun's harshness) and I could have probably spent days wandering the narrow lanes inside, capturing different photo angles, sitting and watching the people. I can't help but think wouldn't all of us "older" people just love to return to locations around the world with a digital camera in hand and the luxury to snap away without thinking twice? I thought coming home from Rajasthan with 10 rolls of film that had to be developed was excessive and now we return from far-flung adventures with at least 1700 digital photos and that's after deleting the stinkers.
Continue reading "Inside The "Golden Fort" of Jaisalmer - Rajasthan, India" »
Part of Jaisalmer's charm is just wandering the narrow streets, getting lost and looking in the shops. Fabrics, embroidery, camel-skin slippers, traditional dhurries (woven rugs) and shawls. Predominantly silver jewelry for every part of the female body. Nose, head, fingers, ears, ankles. Studs, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, bangles in big, chunky and massive. Old and new. Buyer's remorse has haunted me ever since the trip into Rajasthan. Why was I so dumb and stupid? (Actually, young, dumb and stupid.) Why didn't I do any homework to find out what to see or do? There is one bit of extenuating circumstances - no Internet to surf but still.... When I think back of the treasures to be had for a pittance. Boo-hoo...
Purely by luck, my eye gravitated to shops selling nothing but embroidery and mirror work, both old and new. That required a long sit-down to examine the shelves of patchwork, embroidery and mirror work piled up and hanging from the ceiling. There were place mats, bedspreads, banners, table runners. Ah me...should I buy old, new, small, huge and in what shades...and don't even get me started with the gorgeous rugs. By now, ex-Marine was having one of his hissy fits and muttering, "Buy one, any one...buy two if you can't make up your mind...let's just get the hell out of here."
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Tourists can now arrive in Jaisalmer without hours of jolting on the appalling roads. Kingfisher (a great airline) is now offering flights from Delhi (October-March only) and Jaisalmer is planning to open a new airport in 2010. Who knows, it may be now open even as you read this. There are also trains from Delhi, buses, cars OR, I understand there is a grueling 14-day camel trek from Bikaner. That may appeal to some of Travels With Sheila's more adventurous readers. If this doesn't appeal, do what most tourists do and take a sunset camel ride out to Sam dunes or Bara Bagh for photos of Jaisalmer at its golden best. (More about that later...)
However you arrive in Jaisalmer, it would be impossible to forget the first sight of this Golden City standing on a ridge of sandstone and crowned by a fort. So called because the yellow sandstone and sand gives a golden tint to the entire area. It will be one of life's most unforgettable moments. Jaisalmer is located in the heart of the Thar Desert and was founded in 1156. With this strategic position on the camel route between India and Central Asia, money flowed in and people built magnificent houses carved from wood and golden sandstone.
Continue reading "See The "Golden City" of Jaisalmer by Camel - Rajasthan, India" »
The Narain Niwas Palace Hotel is another 19th century ancestral property that was converted and restored into a luxurious heritage hotel. From the looks of their website, the Narain Niwas Palace Hotel has been spiffied up big time since our stay. It was relatively underwhelming after the grandiose Palace Hotels in Jaipur, Mandawa and Bikaner (how easy to get spoiled) and the major selling point was that Princess Anne of England had stayed here once upon a time. As a matter of fact, we were given Princess Anne's exact room and this was the "best available" in Jaisalmer w-a-y back then...
It was sparsely furnished and thankfully air-conditioned which was all I cared about at the moment, stricken by nausea. A few hours in a prone position with moans of "Let me die in peace" before our guide,Francis, appeared with rehydration salts. His right-on-target diagnosis was dehydration due to not drinking enough fluids coupled with the jarring rides on bad highways and fatigue. In the many years of travel since then, I've discovered that tummy troubles usually aren't food-related but caused by dehydration and fatigue.
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Bikaner is situated in the middle of the Thar desert with very little rainfall and extreme temperatures. In summer, temperatures exceed 50 Celsius/122 Fahrenheit (a "hot" that is no laughing matter) and during the winter it dips to freezing point. Founded in 1488 by Rao Bikaji, a descendant of the founder of Jodphur and the second oldest of 14 sons, Bikaner is serious camel coountry and known for the best riding camels in the world. Bikaner holds a camel festival in January that would have to be a sight to behold and also arranges exotic camel safaris.
However, the most famous camel fair in Rajasthan is the Pushkar Fair held in November. There are camel races, Rajasthani men and women dressed in colorful traditional attire, along with thousands of bulls, cows, sheep, goats, horses and camels all around town. If you can't attend, there are still copious amounts of camels used as "beasts of burden" around Bikaner.
One important sight is the Karni Mata Temple, dedicated to a 15th century local saint believed to be an incarnation of the Goddess Durga. A long legend about reincarnation as a rat - all her devotees would be reborn as rats until reincarnation as humans....yadda...yadda. Sorry we didn't visit. Glad we didn't visit once I heard that thousands of rats swarm all over the temple floor and...you enter barefoot! Yuck...eewww...
Continue reading "What to See in Bikaner - Rajasthan, India" »
The next Palace Hotel was in Bikaner. The Lalgarh Palace Hotel architecture was completely unlike Castle Mandawa. A sprawling building coated in red sandstone with several grand halls, lounges, cupolas and pavilions. This mega-mansion Palace was built between 1902 and 1926 with a mixture of Rajput, Mughal and European architectural styles by Maharaja Ganga Singh in memory of his father, and was designed by Sir Swinton Jacob, a British architect...View image.
Keep in mind that the State of Rajasthan was formed in 1949 and merged into the Dominion of India from a cluster of 22 princely states known as Rajputana. These 22 states were never united and often fought among themselves as well as enemies, building fabulous fortunes, forts and palaces along the way. Princes, kings, Rajahs, Maharajas, whatever you choose to call them, sure knew how to build. Ergo...palatial heritage hotels that we common folk can stay in.
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ex-Marine and Travels With Sheila were lucky enough to see a real, still standing, "Elephant Gate" during the journey through Rajasthan. It might have been at the Mandawa Fort, Castle Mandawa...or the Junagarh Fort in Bikaner (the most likely) but wherever it was, the Elephant Gate was astonishing.
Imagine an over 30-foot high massive wooden gate studded with lethal spikes at elephant-wounding level with an small door inset lower for human entrance! Not only that, but these two elephant gates had wooden, movable pillars. I had never even heard of an Elephant Gate let alone seen one.
An Elephant Gate is called Hathi Pol, and this one was decorated with beautiful designs on the outside. Elephant Gates were usually protected by statues/paintings of Lord Ganesh, a deity with the head of an elephant on the body of a human who stands for luck and success. (Ganesha is the only Hindu god I recognize out of the 330,000 of these supernatural beings.)
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If there was a "Royal experience" or "Royal Hotel" to stay in our this, our first trip to India and Rajasthan, we did it without any qualms. ex-Marine and Travels With Sheila have stayed in Tibetan homestays where the "bathroom" was out in a pasture with horses and cows. Dealt with pit toilets. Gotten bitten by bedbugs in Turkey. Slept on the floor in Kashgar Airport all night when a flight was cancelled. Pretty much, been there, done it...And, thoroughly enjoyed a little pampering for a change.
One of the major highlights staying at Castle Mandawa is the "Royal Repast". Kesri Singh led us and the other guests out onto the expansive lawn of the Castle for dinner. Comfortable bolster cushions, rugs and padded areas were set up for the guests to sit and recline while lights illuminated the area.
Continue reading "A Royal Banquet at Castle Mandawa, Rajasthan, India" »
Mandawa is a feudal principality in the center of the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan. It was a trading outpost for ancient caravan routes that stopped here from China and the Middle East until the late 18th century. Thakur Nawal Singh (all the Maharajahs seem to have the name "Singh") was the Rajput ruler of Mandawa and built a fort in 1755 to protect this town. Mandawa soon attracted a large community of traders who settled here until the caravan traffic died out. Over the years, these people did business in other parts of Rajasthan but later returned to Mandawa to build mansions decorated with colored paintings on the walls...View image... called Havelis. Haveli is the term used for a private mansion in India and Pakistan.
Mandawa is often referred to as an open art gallery. Along with Mandawa, the entire Shekhawati region in Rajasthan is dotted with incredible Havelis ornamented with painted walls.
Continue reading "The Havelis (Frescoes) of Mandawa, Rajasthan, India" »
ex-Marine and I were the only independent travelers at the Castle Mandawa. All the other tourists were part of a tour group. Perhaps that was the reason the Maharajah spent a considerable amount of time with us. Finished oohing and aahing over our suite, we walked back out into the courtyard where the tour group guests were loading up on camels for a desert ride out to Kesri Singh's newly built Desert Resort, just 1km/.6 mile away from Castle Mandawa. If a person didn't want to ride a camel, there was a camel cart available.
We had a little time before visiting the Havelis (frescoes on buildings painted by weathy merchants in the area) and he asked us if we'd like to come along with him to visit the Desert Resort in his jeep. Do bears *#!* in the woods? Singh barked a few commands to one of his omnipresent servants, and a few minutes later, the Royal jeep was pulled into the courtyard with his family crest on it...View image. Oh me...oh my...
Continue reading "Castle Mandawa Desert Resort, Rajasthan, India" »
It was only 168 km/104 miles from Jaipur to Mandawa, for an action-packed stay at the Castle Mandawa. Travels With Sheila would like to take a minute to remind you that this was our first trip to India. It was completely arranged by a travel agent and cost $1,700 per person for Kashmir, Rajasthan, all meals, sightseeing, food, guides, and driver. The year was 1988. We were much younger, impressionable and knew nothing about what we were about to see or do (darn stupid to put it bluntly). This exact same tour in 2010 would probably run $1,700 for a few nights in any of these Rajasthan palace hotels. Go ahead, take a guess how happy I was that I didn't listen to naysayers telling us how crazy we were to visit the "hovels" of India. Well...
The driver pulled into the courtyard of Castle Mandawa and I became weak in the knees. The family flag was flying from the roof...View image, and servants were lined up awaiting our arrival. (All that was missing was a 20-gun salute.) Were we staying here? In a real castle with turrets, battlements, balconies, cannons and elephant gate? Was little Sheila who grew up in a seven-person, three bedroom apartment with one bathroom really going to stay here? Yes...yes...yes... The servants grabbed the suitcases...View image... while Maharajah Kesri Singh greeted us and personally showed us to one of the 70 rooms that just happened to be a tower suite.
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If you have a common perception that India is dirty, filthy and..."feh...don't want to go there," prepare yourself for the magnificence inside the Amber Fort, once you've been helped off your elephant or out of the car. India is full of scenes, sites and surprises but never more so than in Rajastahan, the ultimate first visit to India. The interior palace is stunning with huge courtyards, temples and various residence areas. The Kali Temple, also known as Shila Devi Temple, is renowned for the huge silver lions and silver doors. Maharajahs were known for overindulgence, nothing but the best and obviously, there was no such thing as too ostentatious.
The strong walls surrounding Amber Fort guaranteed protection against invasion while the royal family lived in luxury inside. Both Hindu and Muslim ornamentation influenced the decor in the Amber Fort/Palace with intricate carvings on the walls and ceilings throughout. Mosaics, hand paintings, marble columns, sculptures, and great doors.
Continue reading "Inside The Amber Fort/Palace, Jaipur, India" »
The best part of the usual half-day tour to the Amber Fort located 11km/6 miles outside of Jaipur is the "royal" elephant ride for most tourists...View image. We drove up to the top because of time constraints enjoying views of these lumbering beasts s-l-o-w-l-y plodding their way uphill with at least four tourists sitting in the howdah on their backs. The Amber Fort is another one of Jaipur's unmissable tourist attractions. Actually, Jaipur is just one big "unmissable" attraction.
Construction on this humungous fort built of white marble and red sandstone began in 1592 by Rajah Man Singh I but was completed by his descendant, Rajah Jai Singh I. Amber Fort is imposing and rugged from the distance sitting up on the dry hiills with only scrubby patches of green, but prepare for a surprise once inside the massive gateways. There are courts, pavilions and individual palaces that reflect the royal wealth and glory associated with the Mughals. Mughal architecture was a unique blend of Indian, Iranian and Central Asia. Think...Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, palaces in Pakistan, Afghanistan as well as India.
Continue reading "Ride an Elephant Up to The Amber Fort, Jaipur, India" »
The imposing Nahargarh Fort looms over Jaipur...View image and, supposedly, there is a secret passage from the City Palace to this fort that was designed to be used as an escape route for the Maharaja and royal family.
The City Palace, along with its Hawa Mahal, is one of the three big sights in Jaipur. This beautiful palace was built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh during his reign and covers a series of gardens...View image, courtyards and buildings. The premises consist of separate buildings and you could spend an entire day inside the unique museums showcasing weapons, silver vessels, art galleries while enjoying the architecture at leisure. Unfortunately, the majority of tourists, including us, don't have the time to spend.
Continue reading "Inside The City Palace, Jaipur, India" »
The Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) is one of Jaipur's most impressive landmarks and part of a huge complex. A pyramid-shaped facade with five stories (the top three stories are just a single room thick) and at least 953 small decorated windows. (No, I didn't count the windows and would love to know who did.) The Hawa Mahal is called "Palace of Winds" because air circulates through all the stone-carved screen windows and keeps the Palace cool. Constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh to offer women of the court a place from which to watch activities taking place in the bazaar and streets since women were not allowed to show themselves.
It's quite a eye-popping sight to stand in front of this pink sandstone architecture and look up at all the small casements with tiny windows, arched roofs, and small screened balconies. The windows are called Jharokhas and constructed to look like a giant honeycomb. The Hawa Mahal is part of the City Palace, and extends to the women's chambers, the harem.
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There is no better place to begin a Royal holiday in Rajasthan than at the Rambagh Palace Hotel in Jaipur. Unfortunately, our flights from Srinigar to Delhi to Jaipur were seriously delayed and we didn't have many hours to luxuriate in this palatial ex-Palace turned hotel. The Rambagh Palace was built in 1835 for the Queen's favorite handmaiden (nice job if you can get it) and has been home to generations of royals. Over the years, this palatial residence became a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge until converted into a palace in 1925. Rambagh then became the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and remained the home of the Jaipur royal family until 1957. Now a part of Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces, it is considered the "jewel in the crown" among the authentic palaces in India.
Coming from adventures in Kashmir, sleeping in tents and trekking, it was staggering to arrive at a Palace hotel only to be greeted by servants in Rajasthan-style livery and shown to an "ordinary" Palace room with a four-poster bed. Hey...I grew up in a 3-bedroom apartment in Chicago, shared one bathroom with the seven of us and ex-Marine was in the Marine Corps at age 17. This was, and is, heavy stuff to deal with when your families were not part of the "rich and famous." The lowest rate now is..."cough...cough"...in the high hundreds of dollars a night. It was much lower in price in 1988 or our bodies couldn't have darkened Rambagh Palace's doors. (What wasn't lower in price?) I would suggest talking to a local agent who probably can wheel and deal a lower price and surf Kayak and other search engines.
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Rajasthan is not only the largest state in India but also covers most of the large Great Indian Desert, also known as the Thar Desert. This desert borders Pakistan to the west, Gujarat to the southwest, Madhya Pradesh to the southeast, Uttar Pradesh and Haryana to the northeast and Punjab to the north. The State of Rajasthan was formed in 1949, when The Rajput princely states merged into the Dominion of India.
Tourism is big in Rajasthan and account for 8% of Rajasthan's domestic product as you'll see for yourself. Who wouldn't want to see the palaces, lakes and desert forts established by the Rajput Kings? Who wouldn't want to stay in one of these palaces and forts that have been converted into hotels? We certainly did. If that isn't enough for most people, prepare to shop until you drop. Rajasthan is famous for textiles, semi-precious stones and handicrafts.
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Travels With Sheila has visited India on at least eight separate occasions (I've lost count) along with the ex-Marine (husband, Steve). We've explored the States of Kerala, Chattisgarh, Jammu and Kashmir. Orissa, Himachal Pradesh, the many states that make up South India. Gawked at the Taj Mahal, erotic sculptures of Khujaraho, looked for tigers in India's tiger reserves, and seen unimaginable Buddhist, Hindu and Jain Temples. Walked the ancient streets of Cochin and vibrant Kolkata (that I personally happen to love) and there is still more to see. A trip to Gujarat is the next India possibility. But... out of India's incredibly fabled attractions, Rajasthan is the ultimate destination for those of you who are interested in a first visit to India but are looking for a "softer, gentler and glamorous India" experience.
Pure luck and a wonderful travel agent led us to schedule two fabled areas of India for a first venture into this sometimes daunting continent way back in 1988. A trek in Kashmir and cultural exploration of Rajasthan. Read the details about a Kashmir trekking experience in Travels With Sheila and consider doing one yourself (especially since the violence has abated quite a bit in this area). However, this series is all Rajasthan, one of the most fascinating areas in the world. Backpack your way through or do what we did and stay in mind-blowing former Maharajah's Palaces that have been converted into Hotels.
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