And then breakfast! I could forget about my traveling jar of instant coffee. A big pot of brewed coffee, umpteen kinds of Danish and other rolls, banana cake, bread pudding with vanilla sauce, eggs prepared every which way including eggs benedict, muesli, yogurt; fresh fruits, Japanese breakfasts, cold cuts, lox and bagels, Chinese breakfasts with my favorite dim sums and the renowned Shanghai dumplings, crispy bacon, honey-baked ham, waffles, and even more.... It wasn't going to take us long to regain whatever weight was lost over the last two weeks.

Shanghai is growing so incredibly fast that it's difficult to recognize landmarks from even two years ago. There was a street selling knock-offs and a big Internet place only one block from the Four Seasons. No more. Now there are two huge skyscrapers being finished. Shanghai is going to host a 2010 Expo and is now referred to as "Crane City" because of all the building. If we returned in three months, again it would be unrecognizable.

They have great taxi stands on the streets. You press a buttom and a hand starts flashing on the top visible to any passing by taxi... There was also some wonderful street signage for pedestrians...

The weather at this time of year? A hot, humid...steam bath, but we headed out for a walk anyway. We took some pants to be shortened in a local tailor shop for a few dollars...started walked towards the Bund but stopped to take a photo of all these people waiting in line to eat duck for lunch...

There were stalls on the street selling crickets still kept as pets in China. When I first saw this mass of balls, it took a bit to figure out exactly what was in them and then a little leg poked out...

Enough already...the 100+ degree heat was making me ill. A taxi back to the Four Seasons for a small rest and a television program that told enlightened us with some additional Shanghai facts:

- Four families can still share one apartment and family has their own electricity line to the one kitchen. The space is perhaps 4 x 6' with no privacy. The Government is renovating many of the older buildings that have stone doorways and demolishing the rest. To renovate, the four families pitch in 400 Yuan total and the Chinese Government pays the balance, 3,000 Yuan for each apartment.

- The oldest known video showing Shanghai dates from 1892. (I had no idea they were filming then.)

- Over 800,000 people walk down Nanjing Road every day (Shanghai's main shopping street).

- 10 of the largest 500 companies in the world have offices in Shanghai.

Recuperated, we walked out once more. There used to be a spread-out street market selling knock-offs but was demolished last year and moved into a building on Nanjing Road, called Frenshin. We had visited the old market last time and hated it. You couldn't take a step without at least three people screaming..."Rolex, Vuitton, Prada" in your face. An impossible experience even with my known tolerance level for shopping. Well, of course, we had to visit the new market, Frenshin, and see for ourselves even though I always say I'm not going to buy anymore and then instantly go crazy. Three floors of Mao watches for $3, "Converse" (new model) shoes $11. You don't have to buy a "knock-off"...there are tons off well-made, cheap items for sale. By the way, Shoe sizes are crazy. Try everything on. I bought two pairs of shoes, one size 5, the other size 9 and I usually take a 6! ex-Marine bought a winter parka (won't give you the brand name) for $25. Fortunately, we only had two hours before leaving on our United flight back home or a visit to the nearby ATM would have been necessary. Bargain hard! And walk away if they don't come down enough. There are tons of shops that sell identical items so walk...they'll come after you!

Time to leave Shanghai until, I hope, the next time. Into the taxi on the way to Pudong Airport, was one of the greatest, most hilarious signs we've ever seen posted on the back seat for passengers to read. (This is verbatim, word-for-word .)

"...passengers not allowed to smoke, spit or dump inside taxis. Psychos or drunkards without a guardian are prohibited to take taxis."

With that -- Zaijian (Sigh-gee-en) - goodbye in Chinese -- until we return to explore more of China's vast country...