Gond and Baiga People
The Gond are the major tribal group of Central India. At one time forest-dwellers, they are presently settled farmers. Their clan structure and language is different from other tribes...they marry both within and outside of their tribes...practice monogomy, polygamy, cross-cousin marriages, parallel-cousin marriages, remarriage, widow marriage, divorces...they do it all! Clans are usually named after some animals or plants. Within the Gond family are different tribal labels: Muria, Maria, Hill Maria, etc. But the Gond generally describe themselves as Koitor. Are you confused? We were!
But, there was one clear fact...the Gonds love a good excuse to party! Dancing, singing, and some good home-made fermented Mahua liquor (from the flowers of the mahua dassia latifolia tree) or Salfi (juice of the wild date-palm). Most of the time, our presence was just the excuse they needed if a festival wasn't planned. Some typical scheduled festivals? "...worship before collecting Mahua flowers...festival of eating the first mangoes...worship before sowing of paddy seeds...festival to drive out crop disease...worship to start eating new vegetable crops...giving thanks for all new crops..." a festival for every occasion.
Kawardha map
The Baiga are the "Lords of the Animals (or Beasts)" who don't even use a plough, believing it to scar the body of their mother, the Earth, are Hindi speaking, and have supposed natural powers. They also adhere to a simple lifestyle in remote, forested areas and are considered the most primitive and interesting forest tribe of the district.
Bhoramdeo Temple complex, is a miniature local Khajuraho of similar antiquity, sitting all by itself in the forest area.
One last market day in the important village of Chilpi, on the edge of the Kanha forest. There is a weekly Bastar market scheduled for almost every day of the week in different locations with only one thing in common...the multicolored, brightly dressed tribes.
There was some time to visit to the local school...one class of older students had a chance to ask us questions....View image...and I taught a younger group, "Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes"...(this is one of the few songs ex-Marine and I know all the words)...
at the school
A last dinner with the other guests (from U.K.) at the Palace. We were heading into tiger country tomorrow...
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