Gaochang, Bezeklik Thousand Caves and Grape Valley
Astana Tombs are where the aristocrats and commoners of Gaochang were burried. Only three tombs are open to tourists and you walked down a flight of steps in a flat area that led to the burial chamber below. Since everything had to accompany the dead for use in another world, there were paintings, artifacts dating back from 3-5th centuries AD, musical instruments, pen, ink and paper (considered special). One tomb held a well-preserved corpse and even food, also perfectly preserved due to the dry climate. A fact about Gaochang that I liked was that it once sacked by Genghis Khan. That is a familiar name and if you are going to be sacked, looted and raped, it might as well be by the most famous.
One of our most interesting encounters with locals took place at Gaochang. A young lady heard us speaking English (we were the only ones) and approached us. Would we mind if she practiced her English on us? Not at all and we started a long, enjoyable conversation. Her English was perfect, all learned from cassettes and, she was in medical school, studying to be a doctor. From a strict Muslim family that spoke no English, here was this determined little lady trying to make something of herself....goes to show if you want something badly enough...there's always a way...and also kudos to her family for giving her that opportunity...
Her traditionally dressed family walked through the site in typical Uyghur fashion, father in front, women following single-file behind...
The Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves were in terrible condition, robbed and devasted over the years. It was built into a long ridge cliff face and once had a Buddhist monastery at its foot. A steep set of stairs led up a board path to the cliff top. The caves were all located along this path.
We visited the best caves to see the good remaining murals, with some caves protected by glass. Interesting but the best caves were yet to come, later on during this Silk Road journey.
"Grape Valley" was exactly what its name said...a valley growing and drying grapes which is Turpan's major export. Quite beautiful walking through this area of vines and grape trellises surrounded by desert. Walking down to the river between the grape stalls and each vendor selling every imaginable variety of raisins, grapes and offering free samples.
The most unusual sight in Grape Valley was the Karez Wells. A ancient system of water supply by underground channels. These underground tunnels date back over 2,000 years and are still the source of water. Hydraulically speaking..., a karez is a horizontal underground gallery that brings water from aquifers to lower-elevation farmlands. The karez transports water underground and resurfaces in the cultivated areas. Fed entirely by gravity, these wells are responsible for Grape Valley's productivity.
And, we finally found the source of all those cowboy-style Marlboro hats that every Chinese tourist was wearing. These straw hats were being sold everywhere in the Jiaohe, Gaochang areas. ex-Marine promptly started negotiating and bought 50 hats for 35 cents each to give to his customers. (Bought out an entire vendor's stock.) Our guide and us walked away laden down with these hats that ended up packing beautifully in our duffel, nestled into each other. No wonder everything is made in China...if we paid 35 cents a hat, how much did it cost to make and what is their profit margin! Scary to think of.
