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One last breakfast at the Hotel Moderne Saint Germain in the Latin Quarter of Paris before putting on the backpacks and walking two blocks to the nearest RER B stop for the 30-45 minute ride out to Charles de Gaulle Airport. The three days in Paris fast forwarded too quickly and I really didn't want to go home. One day, we'll do an "American Express" and just say, "Oh sweetheart, why don't we just use the American Express Card and stay?" Ha... Fat chance...
Allow yourself enough time in case there is a hang-up in the RER system, just like today. It took forever for the train heading in the Charles de Gaulle direction to arrive. The board showed 9 minutes, then 7 minutes, then 9 minutes again, finally went down to 5 minutes, hung at 3 minutes for at least 6 minutes, while the platform became more and more crowded with morning commuters and travelers heading to Charles de Gaulle. When it finally pulled in late, it was a mob scene while people literally pushed and shoved their way onto the train. I may be little but I'm mighty and smooshed in. ex-Marine almost didn't make it and began shouting, "My wife is in there, let me in" until someone moved an inch and he mangled his way on..
Continue reading "Use Public Transport from Paris to Charles de Gaulle Airport" »
There is no end to amount of reviews on Paris restaurants. The Red Michelin Guide, Fodor, Frommers, travel magazines, the Internet. Each and every travel writer and tourist has an opinion. Dining in Paris restaurants has never been inexpensive in comparison to the United States even without the pathetic exchange rate of the Euro against the dollar. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I love food and it doesn't have to be haute cuisine. A yummy Gyro or Tuna Sandwich (the best ever was still the one we ate in Tunisia with loads of Harissa on it) can do it for us. With three days in Paris, I spent a minimum of six hours a day on the Internet doing a little research looking for good, "no-star" restaurants, culling through the favorites and finally printing off directions, phone numbers and descriptions of six different recommendations.
This is what we experienced and what YOU should know before you go.
- Many restaurants are closed on Sunday and Monday, two out of our three days in Paris.
Continue reading "The "No Star" Restaurants of Paris, France" »
The Boulevard Saint-Michel is one of the two major streets in the Latin Quarter. We discovered this area in 1978 when ex-Marine and I took our five children to Paris and around Europe for four memorable weeks, staying in small "no-star hotels" and pensions with toilets down the hall. The Hotel Albe was a dingy, no-star "hotel" then, cheap, and where the seven of us stayed. A perfect area for teens and adults in the heart of the Latin Quarter with the big student bookstores (such as Gibert Joseph and the Gibert Jeune) right outside the rooms. The kids were even thrilled to witness a student riot one night from the safety of the hotel room with riot police, sirens blaring and lots of tumult. Now, the Hotel Albe is a completely redone three-star hotel and even more expensive than the Hotel Moderne Saint Germain where we were staying.
This entire area is filled with chic boutiques, book shops, cafes, restaurants along with the Seine, Notre Dame and other famous sites at your doorstep. The Rue de la Huchette especially is lined with Greek seafood tavernas and gyros stands. The Boulevard Saint-Michel actually begins in the Place Saint-Michel with its beautiful fountains and sidewalk cafes around the perimeter.
Continue reading "The Boulevard Saint-Michel Area of The Latin Quarter, Paris" »
We crossed over the Seine on Pont de l'Alma bridge. The right bank side of the bridge is close to the Pont de l'Alma tunnel where Diana, Princess of Wales, was tragically killed in the infamous car accident. There is a Flame of Liberty monument there that has become an unofficial memorial to Diana. The Flame of Liberty monument is actually a full-sized, replica of the torch flame carried in the hand of the Statue of Liberty, New York City.
You'll easily recognize this spot by the throngs of tourists with cameras (like me) snapping a picture and bending over to look in the Pont de l'Alma tunnel with the heavy traffic speeding by. A wrong turn somewhere while looking for the Avenue des Champs-Elysees that ended up in front of the prestigious Four Seasons George V Hotel. Really discombobulated, another turn and we were on the fancy Avenue Montaigne. The Avenue Montaigne is named after Michel Montaigne, remember? The statue whose foot we rubbed for good luck in exams on Rue des Ecoles?
Continue reading "The Posh and Pricey Avenue Montaigne in Paris" »
Our last full day in Paris was a drizzly, and grey day. Tanked up on breakfast, we began the over two-mile walk towards the Eiffel Tower area where I was going to attempt to find one last lunch recommendation, Cafe Constant. The walk took us along Boulevard Saint-Germain and passed the Les Deux Magots, Le Cafe de Flore. Both restaurants are famous for being the haunts of French intellectuals during the post-war years along with writers and patrons including: Jean-Paul Sartre, Ernest Hemingway, Albert Camus and Pablo Picasso.
We browsed the restaurant menus along the way to see what lunch hours they kept and if they had a prix fix/menu du jour special. From Boulevard Saint-Germain, we diverted to Rue St. Dominique that begins around the Ecole Militaire (Napoleon's Tomb). This was the first time we had ever seen Rue St. Dominique (let alone walked through this area) and were astounded by the numbers of really wonderful looking patisseries and small restaurants up and down the length. Cafe Constant was a short two blocks away from the Eiffel Tower. Christian Constant, who owns four restaurants, is reputed to turn out some of the best food in Paris and Cafe Constant was serving lunch today until 2:30 p.m. Alas, the menu du jour was once again not up our alley. That took care of recommendations to celebrate ex-Marine's 70th birthday and this was getting downright depressing. ex-Marine may get his wish and eat Gyros for dinner.
Continue reading "Walking to the Eiffel Tower Along the Left Bank of Paris" »
Monday afternoon saw us walking back to Chez Janou with time to walk around the Place des Vosges before lunch. The Place des Vosges is the oldest square in Paris and part of Paris' original urban planning. This square consists of 36-39 houses made of red brick and constructed under Henri IV from 1605-1612. There is an arcade around the entire square filled with cafes, nightclubs, and shops in what were once private residences. The entire Marais District has a strong gay presence. All you have to do is look in a few of the shop windows at some of the extremely flamboyant and idiosyncratic clothes. I wish I had the guts to wear some of these myself! (Watch the Place des Vosges video.)
Chez Janou Bistrot restaurant wasn't nearly as crowded as it was on Sunday and the "Menu du Jour" was vegetable soup and veal slice. ex-Marine ordered that while I ordered off the menu. Moules (mussels) gratin and a green salad with goat cheese, 50cl of the house wine, a carafe of l'eau ordinaire (tap water) and we settled into this cozy dining room, starving. (What else is new...)
Continue reading "Lunch at Chez Janou in the Marais District of Paris, France" »
A gigantic breakfast at the hotel of ham and cheese sandwiches, yogurt, coffee, and we set off to visit the Musee de Cluny. That is, if it wasn't too crowded. The Museum of the Middle Ages is housed in two Parisian monuments: the Gallo-Roman "thermes" (baths) from the 1st-3rd centuries and the Cluny Abbey, late 15th century. Completely different from all the other museums we've visited in Paris, the Musee de Cluny offered a unique view of the art and history of man in Roman Gaul and 15 centuries of European art and history at one location...View image.
Entrance is 8 Euros with no senior reductions but free coat check. There is a visitor's guide in English that describes all 23 rooms on two levels, and we spent two hours along with many school groups making our way from room to room. You are allowed to video and take photos without a flash.
Continue reading "Musee de Cluny Museum of The Middle Ages, Paris" »
Across the street, down the lively St. Andre des Arts, Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine in the heart of St. Germain des Pres, the 6th Arrondissement of Paris. The Rue St. Andre des Arts is a narrow 13th century street that leads from the Place Saint Michel to Place Buci near Odeon. Interesting shops line the street along with what seemed to be hundreds of restaurants in this entire Saint Germain des Pres area. If you can't find a place to eat, shop or stay, your eyes are definitely closed.
The Rue de Buci differs slightly from Rue St. Andre des Arts by its plethora of food for sale in shops and street markets. This is one of my favorites streets to look at with all the fresh seafood, purveyors selling produce and absolutely yummy pastry shops. Of course, there are cafes and boutiques. What would any Paris street worth its salt be without a cafe or boutique? The Rue de Buci is most lively on weekdays.
Continue reading "The Vibrant Rue St. Andre des Arts, Rue de Buci and Right Bank of Paris" »
Still walking east on the Rue de Rivoli, we passed many department stores, one of the few merry go rounds still operating in Paris until the Rue de Rivoli changed its name to Rue St. Antoine, only a few blocks from Bastille and now in the Marais District. A left down the Rue des Tournelles heading towards Chez Janou Bistrot on 2 Rue Roger Verlomme in this 3rd Arrondissement. Chez Janou was one of my restaurant recommendations and we were looking forward to a late lunch/early dinner.
Still on the right track, there was a Jewish wedding and Synagogue de la Rue des Tournelles, built in 1876, directly in front of us...View image. I knew the Marais District is still a major center of the Paris Jewish community, but being fixated on food, hadn't given it much thought. Jewish people have been living in Paris since the 1st century B.C. Between expulsions, the Jews always returned and settled in different areas. Ile de la Cite, Rue de la Harpe (close to where we were staying now), and it wasn't until the 19th century that the Marais area once again became one of the favored areas for Jews to settle in. Now the Marais is one of Paris' trendiest quarters as we found out for ourselves the next day. Right now, let's find Chez Janou and eat!
Continue reading "Towards The Marais District on the Right Bank of Paris" »
The Pantheon looms just blocks to the left of Hotel Moderne and we walked up the street to see exactly what it was. The Pantheon was originally built as a church dedicated to St. Genevieve, but is more famous as the burial place of Alexander Dumas, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, and Louis Braille. The inscription above the entrance reads ...aux hommes la patrie reconnaissante...or, for great men the grateful nation.... There was a big entrance fee and we decided against it, turned around, and a brilliant Eiffel Tower stood out in front of us, down a street, about a two or three miles away as the crow flies.
Back to the Rue des Ecoles and past the Sorbonne University of Paris and the Musee de Cluny right across the street. A brief wander over to see exactly what this stunning medieval building was and into the courtyard. The Parisian residence of the Cluny abbots originally stood on this site in the 13th century until replaced by Jacques d'Amboise, Abbott of Cluny in Burgandy in the late 15th century. It is stunning and has a collection of Middle Ages tapestries and other arts. I cannot begin to tell you how many times we've passed this building without a clue of what it was.
Continue reading "The Paris Pantheon, Sorbonne and Musee de Cluny" »
The Hotel Moderne St. Germaine on the Rue des Ecoles is located in the 5th Arrondisement of Paris on the Rive Gauche (Left Bank) of the Seine. Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements or districts. This makes finding your way around even easier because an address will say...5th Arrondisement, 10th Arrondisement, etc... The 1st through the 7th Arrondissements is where the majority of famous attractions and tourists are found.
We usually stay in the Latin Quarter for its vibe, trendy shops, restaurants and closeness to Notre Dame Cathedral, La Congiergerie where Marie-Antoinette was imprisoned, the two natural islands in the Seine River - Ile de la Cite and Ile St-Louis The world-famous and historic Sorbonne University of Paris is also on the Rue des Ecoles (street of schools) along with its Schools of Medicine, Philosophy, Libraries and more. During the week you'll see students from all countries rushing to and from classes, sitting on curbs studying, eating fast food, and locked in embraces.
Continue reading "Le Comptoir du Relais Bistro, Paris, France" »
It was off the RER B at Saint Michel-Notre Dame, walk up the stairs and take a fast look right. There was the always heart stopping sight of Notre Dame sitting on Ile de la Cite and the bustling square, Place Saint Michel. We reluctantly turned away from this sight and began the easy and familiar walk to Hotel Moderne Saint Germain on the Rue des Ecoles (street of schools). Even though it's been four years since we took the walk, it felt like coming home. The Hotel Moderne redid the main floor last year and it looks very sharp even though they installed florescent lights in the breakfast area that changes color every few minutes. A pea shade of green early in the morning is not my best color.
We chose this hotel again because the Internet nightly rate included free WI-FI, a bountiful buffet breakfast and all taxes and service. If you didn't bring your own laptop, a free iMac is available in the lounge area for all guests to use. A big plus to arriving on a Sunday is no waiting for a room until the usual noon check-in time since most guests check out on Sundays. However, they do have a luggage room in case your room isn't available yet.
Continue reading "The Hotel Moderne Saint Germain on The Left Bank of Paris" »
We are visiting Paris with no pre-conceived notions, no "to-do" lists, agendas and unaccompanied by adult children or grandchildren. What to do in Paris when you've been there...done it? A good questions with many possibilities depending on the time of year, day of the week.
- The flea market at Port Vanves? This market is held only on weekends and would have been great but we arrived on Sunday. This gave very little time to get there and still have enough time to really stroll and shop. A definite "next time"...
- Montmartre? We haven't explored this quarter since 1978. I would say it's time to return and revisit Sacre Coeur. Enjoy the views of Paris, take a walking tour through the Place du Tertre, look for the only Montmartre vineyard remaining in Paris, and try to recognize landmarks made famous by Toulouse-Lautrec and other artists... A definite "maybe"...
Continue reading "What To Do in Paris, France When You've Been There...Done It..." »
We've been loyal United Airlines passengers for more years than I can count and felt like alien, disfranchised people checking in at American Airlines. No stepping on a red carpet. The last ones to board. Just two little peons who happen to be holding free tickets and that made us feel a lot better. A small carry on and backpacks on the evening American Airlines non-stop flight from Chicago to Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) in Paris. How much does a person really need for three days in Paris? Don't forget, you are dealing with two persons who have been known to travel for three to four weeks at a time with just one suitcase each. My feelings have never been hurt when friends compare our look to those of "street people." Perhaps, that's why pickpockets stay away...we look too poor.
In hindsight, we could have traveled with even less! One pair of blue jeans would have sufficed. FASHION NOTE: Please don't listen to people who say only Americans wear blue jeans and running shoes in Paris. Ha! The young fashionistas this November were wearing skinny blue jeans, high black leather boots, pea jacket or bomber jacket and always a scarf. On the majority of "older" people, blue jeans and "bowling shoes" or blue jeans and boots.
Continue reading "Flying Chicago to Paris is So Easy" »
Where would you choose to celebrate a milestone birthday, anniversary or other extraordinary occasion? ex-Marine (husband, Steve) who turned 70, in November. chose Paris, France. Now Paris in the middle of November may not appear to be a great choice on the surface unless you get lucky with the weather. Chances are it will be rainy and chilly with fewer daylight hours but Paris will always be Paris despite the weather. Paris is one of the most gorgeous and exciting cities in the world throughout the year. And, on the plus side, the long lines of tourists are gone.
This is where ex-Marine wanted to celebrate and by golly, that is where we would celebrate no matter what. His decision made, Steve then dropped all the logistics and planning in my lap. Air, hotel, what to see and all the other miscellany.
Continue reading "A Milestone Birthday Celebration in Paris, France" »
The trip was over. We watched movies all the way home on United and Josh actually slept a little. Then it took ages to gather up his PSP, power adaptors, gum, magazines, and all the other necessities he couldn't travel without.
Josh was excited to see his family, tell about Paris, and hand out PRESENTS.
We saw, and did, more each day than was humanly possible, but those little legs of his, bounding up and down the stairs, and that mind that never stopped working, made it a fabulous trip.
This was something we will never forget and I know, neither will he. As Josh said, "This is Paris and I have to see everything but who knows when I'll see this again." How very true.
Continue reading "Grandchild - End of Trip to Paris" »
Another warm day...and, of course, I only brought jeans which are darn hot for walking around. Today, Josh wanted to see the Pompidou Museum of Modern Art. It was about a mile walk from our hotel...relatively easy. The architecture is so interesting...with tubular escalators on the outside of the building...and lots of entertainment going on by street performers. View image
Josh said, "This is the coolest thing in Paris."
But it was even more interesting for Josh, and us, on the inside. There was a new exhibit called The Big Bang which would capture anybody's attention. The exhibition was built around modern and contemporary art works and combined fine arts, photography, cinema, video, architecture, design and literature.
Destruction, Construction/Deconstruction, Anarchism, Sex, War, Subversion, Melancholy and Re-enchantment were the themes. And when you look at some of the photos below, you will definitely understand why a teen-age boy would be intrigued.
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Days 4 & 5" »
Our Paris Hotel, Hotel Moderne, was situated beautifully. Near the metro (subway), The Sorbonne, Notre Dame. There was a big buffet breakfast which included: ham, cheese, croissants, french baquettes (Josh's favorite), yoghurt, juice, coffee. They also had a computer with free internet so Josh was able to Instant Message back and forth to his parents and friends in the U.S. Everyone got a big kick out of that. View image Another important part of each morning, was racing to the Internet to checkout White Sox scores. This was Labor Day Weekend, 2005, and both Josh and ex-Marine are BIG White Sox fans!
Some internet sites I used to help with this trip were Paris Info, and France Guide. Lots of information.
Today, we were heading out to Fontainebleau. I wanted Josh to see a real chateau, and have a chance to get out to the countryside by train. And, since he is interested in Napoleon...thought it would be interesting.
It took several metro connections to get to the Gare de Lyon....RER train to Fontainebleau/Avon...then Bus A to the Chateau.
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Day 3" »
We were there, Josh got a stamp in his passport, and our little 14-year old EverReady Bunny was off and running. The big priorities were: going to McDonald's for Chicken McNuggets; hitting an ATM for Euros, and walking over to Notre Dame Cathedral. (Our hotel was situated within walking distance from Notre Dame.) View image
Josh's first bit of culture shock - young people kissing and "making out" in broad daylight on every street corner! In his words..."how rude". Second, you have to pay to use a toilet...."it's so cruel". Third, people don't curb their dogs and you have to watch out for "poop" on sidewalks. Fourth, "why are all the people smoking?"
A fast nap and his major focus in Paris - The Eiffel Tower. The wait wasn't too long...elevator to the top...wonderful views and walked down from the 2nd level. Rather, I walked down...he ran down. It's very hot in Paris and crowded. Dinner at Polidor, on the Left Bank but Josh didn't enjoy his meal that much...probably would have preferred McDonald's again. Kids....
After being on the go all day - metro's, stairs, walking...Josh didn't even have the energy to use his Ps2! Lights out!!
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Days 1 and 2" »
Why not! I have always hoped that my grandchildren would develop a love of travel and exploration. It is exciting to see (and hear) the impact of these places through their eyes while teaching history and language in a fun atmosphere. If you ask, "Where in the World would you like to go?"...the answer will usually be: Disney World, Cooperstown, Six Flags, etc. Persist with the questions, and I heard: Tokyo, Paris, Rome (like "Lizzy McGuire") and Australia.
With this in mind, we decided to take 14-year old, Josh, to Paris, over Labor Day weekend....cramming in what he wanted to see in 4 days. It's only an 8-hour flight from Chicago, you can drink the water, one of the most beautiful cities in the world with so much to see, and it wouldn't cost more more than the two of us since he'd sleep in our room.
His dad bought a Paris guide book for him to work up an itinerary of his interests.
We took care of the essential details:
Air - United, non-stop and used miles to get a free ticket for Josh;
Hotel- Hotel Moderne on the Left Bank, thought the "Student Quarter" would be more interesting to a teenager.
Continue reading "Paris - Take Your Grandchild (or Child)?" »
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