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- An Unexpected Day in St. Gervais-Le Fayet, France
- The 2009 Chamonix Marathon, June 28, 2009, France
- A 10k, Cross Country and Les Grands Montets, Chamonix, France
- The Chamonix 2009 Marathon, Cross Country and 10k Races
- Hiking A Section of the Chamonix Marathon Route in Vallorcine, France
- Rock Climbing and Relaxing in Chamonix, France
- The Col de Balme is Part of the Tour de Mont-Blanc, France
- The Chamonix, France Saturday Market
- The Plan de l'Aiguille Middle Station, Chamonix, France
- The Top of The Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France on A Sunny Day
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Off the train in St. Gervais-Le Fayet, the Tourist Office was closed (always on Sunday) and we can't figure out how to use the storage lockers in the station. How much does it cost? Where can we get change? Does it take exact change only? And, there is no one in the train station to ask. "When life gives you lemons, make lemonade...." Ex-Marine walked over to a 2** hotel across the street from the train station and asked if we could pay them 5 Euros to leave the bags for the day. Voila....instant lemonade.
Among Saint Gervais-Le Fayet's attractions are thermal baths with spa treatments, walks and hikes with over 180 km/11 miles of marked paths and trails. Other people who had gotten off the train with us were either waiting for a bus to Megeve (been there, done it...a gorgeous, expensive area), or buying tickets for the Mont-Blanc Tramway. The Mont-Blanc Tramway is a rack & pinion train that operates in the summer. It begins in Le Fayet and takes you to the foot of the Bionnassay Glacier and Nid d'Aigle. The tracks began across the street from the train station and there was a path alongside that you could hike on.
Continue reading "An Unexpected Day in St. Gervais-Le Fayet, France" »
Today was not an ordinary day since we had to get up very early to watch the Chamonix marathon start at 7:00 a.m. in the Place du Triangle de l'Amitie. The excitement was palpable and my heart was pounding in sync with the runners. All announcements were being made in both French and English and it so happened that the woman doing the English translation is from California. She lives in Chamonix and said there were around 1,700 runners with perhaps 10 from the U.S. Runners and families of runners arrived from all directions...View image... proudly wearing red Chamonix Marathon t-shirts. Many, many runners were carrying hiking poles. A smart move because hiking poles absorb some of the pounding on your joints and would also help on the uphill and tricky sections of the course.
A brief refresher about the tough 42.195 km/26.2 miles Chamonix Marathon. The course begins at 1,036m/3,398', goes up to 2,201m/7,221', down to 1,363m/4,471', with one last uphill at 2,016m/6,614'. The hiking poles will come in handy along with mega-stamina to complete. There were mandatory cut-off times and if you weren't at a certain spot by the required time, it was "three strikes and you're out."
Continue reading "The 2009 Chamonix Marathon, June 28, 2009, France" »
Eating breakfast on a partially cloudy day, we could see runners on the other side of the L'Arve River heading for the starting point of the cross-country at 8:30 a.m., and then the 10km at 9:00 a.m., both beginning at the parapente area by the Sports Center. Inhaled breakfast and walked as fast as possible to the start but missed the start by five minutes. However, we were there in time for the 10k...View image...and immediately got choked up watching the camaraderie between runners, still thinking, maybe I should have given it a shot. I miss the fellowship but don't miss training and getting up early for races. There was also going to be a mini-cross race for children beginning at different times (between 10:30-11:00 a.m.) depending on ages.
The winner of the 10k was Erik Gramstad of Norway. Erik's time was 38:40 and lives and works in Geneva. He also told us he runs cross-country outside of Oslo in the mountains of Norway. Erik finished at least four minutes ahead of the 2nd place finisher and said the course was very difficult from the half way point on because of water from all the rain last night. If this stalwart Norwegian found it difficult, I never could have completed the race.
Continue reading "A 10k, Cross Country and Les Grands Montets, Chamonix, France" »
The Chamonix 2009 Cross Country and 10k Races (along with smaller distances for children) were going to be held Saturday, June 27 and the Marathon on Sunday, June 28, the day we were leaving for Annecy, France. I saw the posters and announcements all over Chamonix and my eyes lit up. Once a runner, always a runner. Perhaps not a fast runner, or able to do Marathons any more but running is still in my blood and I get all teary-eyed whenever I see a race.
I began running in 1978 and progressed from one mile to 26.2 miles in a four-month period and made poor ex-Marine, who hated every footstep, join me. (I can be very persuasive.) This is definitely not recommended today but 1978 was the Jim Fixx, Alberto Salazar, Bill Rogers, Kathrine Switzer, Lorraine Moller era and neophytes were told to run mega-miles. Anal, obsessive-compulsive, Type A, overachiever listened and began running 10k's, marathons, training 60 miles a week, and trying to convert whomever would listen into becoming runners. This lasted until 1985 when my poor shins, and bony knees couldn't take it anymore. We both still run around three miles several times a week but I will never forget the excitement of my first blue Nike "Waffle trainers" when I became a bouncy, trouncy, runner. S-I-G-H.
Continue reading "The Chamonix 2009 Marathon, Cross Country and 10k Races" »
Cloudy this morning with unsettled weather scheduled for today. An early breakfast to make the 9:17 a.m. train to Vallorcine. Rushing to the train station, the departure board showed retard, a word I'm all too familiar with that means "late." Ten minutes late to be exact. The platform was wall-to-wall people heading in the direction of Vallorcine and the Swiss border. Of course, today is Friday. The Europeans usually begin and end travel on weekends.
When the train arrived, not one seat could be found and one train car was almost completely taken up by a group of young children off for a day's excursion into the mountains. Screaming, yelling and having a wonderful time. NOISY. Even if there was a seat available in this car, I would have stood. The train emptied out at Le Planet-Montroc including all the children. Just two more stops and we were at Vallorcine.
Continue reading "Hiking A Section of the Chamonix Marathon Route in Vallorcine, France" »
Instead of hiking today, we decided to just put on running shoes and take leisurely walk through Chamonix and the valley. I'm having a terrible time sleeping at night since it is light past 10:00 p.m. with sunrise around 5:00 a.m. Breakfast and then headed towards the open area by the Sports Center where parasailers were making perfect landings. One day, I have to get up the courage to try it. Even children older than 5 can take a tandem flight.
Speaking of children. If you bring the little darlings with to Chamonix, there are: mini-clubs; baby sitters; play areas at the Sports Center; Paradis les Praz with a zip line, donkey rides, games; mini-golf; paint ball; easy hikes; junior mountaineering courses (12-17 year olds); horse riding; cycling; canyoning; and at least three companies offering multi-activity courses. Sounds more exciting than a summer camp to me.
Continue reading "Rock Climbing and Relaxing in Chamonix, France" »
Another glorious blue sky day with abundant sunshine. Down for breakfast and over to wait for a bus to La Tour at the bottom of the Col de Balme area. A hop, skip and jump from the Swiss border and part of the Tour de Mont-Blanc. I have some miscellaneous TIPS for you:
- The Chamonix buses will only stop if someone is actually waiting (or waving it down) at the bus stop and you must push the buzzer inside the bus for the bus to arret (stop). Otherwise, the bus will blow right on by;
- There are very clean toilets with toilet paper at the bottom and top of every lift;
- Not only does the Chamonix Tourist Information Office have a strong WI-FI signal, but they also set out lounge chairs in the sun every day for tourists to use. Free!;
- Check and recheck lift opening and closing schedules; and
- Trains and buses DO NOT operate on a daily basis. There are Sunday schedules, holiday schedules, school vacation schedules. We've learned the hard way. Ask and ask again...
Continue reading "The Col de Balme is Part of the Tour de Mont-Blanc, France" »
Coming down the Planpraz lift, you could see the tented food stalls below in the Place du Mont-Blanc. I had forgotten that today was the weekly Saturday morning market in Chamonix. One side of the Place du Mont-Blanc Square was filled with clothes, shoes, belts, artwork, jewelry and other miscellany for sale. Prices were not out of line but almost all clothing articles were made, where else, in China.
On the other side of the Place du Mont-Blanc were the food sellers, and saliva began dripping from my lips. A food market like any other in Europe but I dearly love...food, glorious food.... Vegetables included some of the largest artichokes I've ever seen, artistically arranged radishes...View image...fresh strawberries, raspberries, sweet figs...View image, huge boxes of the fragile Girolle (Chanterelle) mushrooms. Vendors selling pizza, rotisserie chickens. And what would a market be without a fresh flower section. One dozen roses for 12 Euros.
Continue reading "The Chamonix, France Saturday Market" »
Back down to the middle station called Plan de l'Aiguille, 2,317m/7,601' and took all the warm clothing off. Five thousand feet in altitude change makes a big difference in weather and how you feel. Clear and crowded today with hikers coming up from the bottom, hikers walking down to Chamonix...View image, some heading towards Lac Bleu, a 1-1/2 hour walk from the middle station, and still others taking a path to the Mer de Glace that remains fairly level and follows the contours of the mountains.
Other tourists had no intention of hiking and just sat in the sun, drinking and eating in one of the small cafes at this level before taking the next tram down to Chamonix. A big surprise when a man accompanied by his donkeys appeared at the middle station. The last time we saw donkeys was on the Robert Louis Stevenson trip in France. The Scottish writer left Monastier sur Gazeille, France on foot, September 22, 1878 with his donkey, Modestine, on a long distance walk and it's still possible to hire donkeys to carry your goods on this classic. We couldn't get a clear-cut answer from this man exactly what he was doing with his donkeys. They weren't loaded, no riders...
Continue reading "The Plan de l'Aiguille Middle Station, Chamonix, France" »
I pulled back the drapes this morning to a brilliant blue sky, sunny day. Jumped out of bed and began preparation to haul butt over the Aiguille du Midi lift hoping that not too many bus loads of day trippers were in line before us. The Hotel d'Arve is completely filled even though season doesn't officially begin until July 4.
Out the door for a five-block walk over to the Aiguille du Midi cable cars with light jackets on, backpacks filled with warm stuff for the top, and maps. The cable car line was longer than the last time because it is a crystal clear day. There must be little counters in the turnstiles because the line halts and doors leading to the large cable car shut when the exact amount of people (65-75) the tram safely holds is reached...View image. The trams leave every 10 minutes and we waited approximately 15 minutes to load. The multi-passes have chips embedded along with photos and you just wave it in front of the turnstile unit.
Continue reading "The Top of The Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France on A Sunny Day" »
Today, we took the free train to Les Houches, a small town in the Chamonix Valley. I had seriously considered staying in Les Houches but was happy I chose the center of Chamonix instead. None of the hotels are by the train station, it would have been a schlep and Les Houches is also very small and quiet. If you have your own transportation, it's a horse of a different color and this is the place to stay for skiing. The first area I've seen with my kind of ski runs. Nice, wide and intermediate.
Les Houches has an extremely nice tourist office and a young man gave us maps and suggested different hiking options. Following his advice, we walked over to the Bellevarde lift and began working our way up what looked like a gravel road to the top of Prarion Lift. Thanks to my little GPS, I can tell you it was 3.65 miles from Les Houches' base altitude, 975m/3,198' to 1,853m/6,079' at the top, and took 2:45 minutes. (Anal to the extreme!) It was cloudy and darnright cold the last hour up and we were freezing by the time we got to the Prarion Gondola. This route is part of both the Tour du Mont Blanc and the GR5.
Continue reading "Les Houches in The Chamonix Valley, France" »
There are fabulous views from our hotel of the Mount Blanc massif. What a sight! If a person has only one chance to visit one mountain area in Europe, there are three that I would recommend in the following order. Mont Blanc, Chamonix France - Matterhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland - and the Jungfrau region, again in Switzerland. They are the most popular, breath-taking areas, and the first two are the most expensive to visit. No one is giving away anything on the mountains. A two-star hotel will run considerably more than a two-star hotel in, let's say, Au, Austria but it's location...location...location. You'll get more for your money by staying in smaller, less expensive areas and just making day trips to the "Big Three."
It's supposed to get warmer each day but, right now, the weather is ideal for hiking. Another short walk to the Plan Praz/Le Brevant lift at 1,035m/3,395'. The hiking sign said three hours to the top of Plan Praz at 1,999m/6,558', and an additional 1-1/2 hours to Le Brevant, 2,525m/8,284'. Seemed like a doable up hill to Plan Praz (forget the top of Le Brevant. I am "tetched in the head" but still have a few sane marbles left) and off we went. There were just two scary areas, one crossing over a little stream and the other on rocks. Other than that, not bad with the exception of looking out for mountain bikers flying down the same trails that made me nervous going up!
Continue reading "Plan Praz and The Mont Blanc Massif in Chamonix, France" »
Woozy from both the altitude and cable car rides on the Aiguille du Midi, ex-Marine and I walked back over to Montenvers Rack and Pinion Railroad...View image... to ride up to the Mer de Glace (literally, "sea of ice") and see what we missed yesterday during the rainstorm. The rack railway was invented by Emil Viktor Stub, a Swiss engineer who installed railways on steep inclines and this little red train has been running since 1908. I'd certainly rather take a railway than mule like visitors did until 1905.
Once up at the top of Montenvers train station, there are hiking trails that lead to the Plan de'Anguille (mid-station), down to the Mer de Glace and even back down to Chamonix (the same trail we took up). The top station has a cafe and restaurant that overlook the Mer de Glace glacier, and peaks of Les Drus (3,754m/12,316'), Les Grands Jorasses (4,205m/13,795') and the Aiguille du Grepon (3,482m/11,161').
Continue reading "Back to Montenvers Mer de Glace, Chamonix, France" »
Torrential rains all night in Chamonix but it's just cloudy today. The Hotel l'Arve has free WI-FI but I'm having trouble getting on and just walked to the Tourist Information Office (two blocks away) to use theirs. They have fabulous WI-FI and a person can even sit in the square outside to pick up a great signal. By the way, McDonald's is also a completely cyber restaurant with a wonderful signal.
Since the weather was iffy, we decided to walk over to the Aiguille du Midi cable car, use our passes and then take the Montenvers train up to the Mer de Glace to see what we missed in yesterday's rain. There is always a line for the Aiguille du Midi cable car and tourists come by the busload to Chamonix just for this one excursion. They spend the day taking cable cars up and down the mountains, shopping and eating. Doesn't sound bad to me... TIP: It will be cold up there. Bring warm weather gear in your daypack. You'll need it!
Continue reading "The Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France" »
My alarm actually went off at 7:30 a.m. otherwise we would still have been in la-la land completely exhausted. Dressed and down for the daily breakfast buffet, Hotel de L'Arve has only one kind of cheese and bologna. My bologna has a first name...it's.... However, there was yogurt, juice, can boil your own eggs, dry cereal, coffee/tea, baguettes, cakes and I'm confident we won't starve.
The first stop was at one of the best Tourist Information Offices I've ever visited to get all the poop. Maps, what's going on in Chamonix, bus and train timetables, and the Mont Blanc pass. The Mont Blanc pass is good for 2-15 days on all the cable cars and lifts with the exception of Aiguille section to Pont Helbronner, Italy. That part is the only additional charge. You can choose from a consecutive day pass or non-consecutive day pass. The passes are expensive but individual cable car/lifts are very, very expensive if bought individually. Hmmm...have to think about his.
Continue reading "Montenvers Train and the Mer de Glace, Chamonix, France" »
The flight from Chicago to Washington, DC was late because of a mechanical and United substituted equipment that just arrived from Heathrow. No big deal since we were on an early flight. The United flight from Washington, DC to Paris taxied out to the runway and then the pilot's voice came over the intercom. The manifest had an unaccounted suitcase without the passenger on board, and we'd have to taxi back to the terminal to unload this suitcase.
Now, the flight is running one hour late and I'm beginning to stress that we'll miss the 9:25 a.m. train from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Lyon. That would extend the day by a minimum of three hours until the next train from the airport left for Lyon. Trains leave every hour from the Gare de Lyon in Paris and I did not want to deal with taking the RER to Chatelet, dragging suitcases and changing lines into the Gare de Lyon. That is a big pain in the butt. The shining light on this debacle in the making was the United Airlines flight was oversold and they upgraded us to business class! This is why we stick to one airline.
Continue reading "Travel is Stressful - Airplanes and Trains to Chamonix, France" »
Where to stay in Chamonix? Deciding on a hotel is always my most difficult part when planning independent travel. We prefer a hotel, either two-star or three-star depending on the rates, with half pension/demi pension, for several reasons:
- Dinners in Europe are expensive in relation to what you get. An entree ranges between 15-25 Euros and when you add an additional 35% (value of Euro against the Dollar), this is expensive. Half pension dinners usually include an appetizer, a choice of entrees, salad and dessert for the same amount; and
- We are just too tired after sightseeing or hiking all day to begin looking for a restaurant at dinner time. Much easier to return to the hotel, relax, bathe and come downstairs for an apertif before dinner.
Continue reading "Planning A Chamonix, France Trip" »
Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the Alps and in Western Europe at an altitude of 4,810m/15,781'. It lies between Italy and France with the two famous towns of Courmayeur on the Italian side and Chamonix on the French side. The summit of Mont Blanc is actually on the French-Italian border. There is a scarier beyond belief cable car that ascends and descends Mont Blanc on both sides.
One of the most famous hiking trips in the world is called the Tour du Mont Blanc, a classic 10-12 day circuit of the Mont Blanc massif beginning in Chamonix. The hike leads from Chamonix-Les Houches-Les Contamines-Les Champieux, France; Rifugio Elisabetta-Courmayeur-Rifugio Bonatti, Italy; La Fouly-Champex, Switzerland; Trient-Argentiere-Chamonix back in France where the Tour du Mont Blanc ends. About 10,000 trekkers attempt the entire 250km/155 miles each year but we planned on only day hiking for 10 days.
Continue reading "The Mont Blanc Area of France" »
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