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- The East Side of Lac d'Annecy and Trivia
- Annecy's Tuesday Market and Food in France
- Talloires, France for Gourmets and Luxury
- Other Miscellany and Things to Do in Annecy, France
- A Boat Cruise on Lac Annecy, France
- Hotel de Paris, Annecy, France
- The Medieval Town of Annecy, France
- An Unexpected Day in St. Gervais-Le Fayet, France
- The 2009 Chamonix Marathon, June 28, 2009, France
- A 10k, Cross Country and Les Grands Montets, Chamonix, France
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It's a two hour walk if you begin from the Tourist Office and if you don't feel like walking, there are many bicycle rental places in Annecy. The spur of land going out in the lake from Albigny has the town beach of Annecy on one side with tennis courts and entrance to the beach. Walking along you come to the Imperial Hotel, opened in 1913. The Hotel isn't just a luxury hotel but also houses the Casino and Conference Center. There is a gorgeous rose garden in front of the Imperial Hotel and sculptures along with miniature golf behind it.
There are row, motor and pedal boats, some including little slides to slide into the lake...View image... available in this area and a playground for children. The Pont des Amours is an example of early 20th century ironwork...View image... and crosses the Canal du Vasse under plane trees. On the other side of the bridge are more children's games in the Jardins de l'Europe, an English style garden planted in 1863.
Continue reading "The East Side of Lac d'Annecy and Trivia" »
The Tuesday morning market in Annecy begins early and finishes promptly at noon in the old quarter. Food only! It's a market similar to all the others in Europe with the only difference. The ambiance of the surroundings. Set along narrow streets and over canal bridges, it was extremely crowded with the locals doing their weekly shopping...assured of buying the freshest ingredients and tourists noshing away on the free samples, picking up picnic lunches and eating irresistible foods, even if they weren't hungry. Baby vegetables, pork brochettes...View image, fruit (large cherries), chicken spinning on the rotisserie, small wineries (no samples, unfortunately)...View image, trout sausage....View image, it just went on and on and on. We also passed a gourmet deli with the most wonderful looking take-away food. I almost went into a food orgasm looking at the different varieties, some of which I'd never seen. Took a pass on the more "esoteric" samples, e.g. brains and "bunny foo-foo."
We wove in and out of the crowds for blocks getting hungrier by the minute. Although we had just eaten a huge breakfast, it didn't take long to get into the "feed me" mode and snarf down samples of sausages, local cheese and finish with an ice cream cone. Very bad us!
Continue reading "Annecy's Tuesday Market and Food in France" »
Talloires is only 13km/8 miles from Annecy at the foot of Dents de Lanfon (1824m/5,984')...View image, and close to the highest mountain in this area, la Tournette, 2351m/7,713' and loaded with 4**** star hotels. Hotel Abbaye de Talloires...View image, the famous Auberge du Pere Bise (a Relais & Châteaux Hotel)...View image, Les Pres du Lac, Hotel Cottage Bise and Gourmet restaurants. We didn't see one menu for under 45 Euro, prix fix...View image, and running up to 80 Euros easily. One of the most beautiful areas we've ever seen and if you can afford 250 Euros a night, not including food, go for it. Talloires is a rich, exclusive retreat and known locally as the "Pearl of Lac Annecy." It has been painted by Paul Cezanne to name just one famous artist.
The architecture of the village is typically Savoyard and walking the narrow streets, we found the Tourist Information Center who gave us walking tips and hikes for the Talloires area, swimming areas, marinas, and Church of Saint Germain du Lac. The church was built by the Monks of the Benedictine abbey in 1016 and has a communion table with a wooden balustrade dating back to the 17th century.
Continue reading "Talloires, France for Gourmets and Luxury" »
Visit the Annecy website for even more information then I'm giving. If you love to bicycle, there is an old railway line that links Annecy to Albertville, covering 30km/18 miles that can be bicycled easily. I've been told that it is totally flat.
- For water sports, kayak, rent a pedal boat, motor boat, go sailing. There are innumerable places to rent along the lake.
- You can base yourself in Annecy and visit other places in the alps. Chamonix, Geneva, Chambery, Evian, Val d'Isere, Aosta, and La Clusaz are just a few of the towns in the Haute-Savoie.
- A travel agency in Annecy, Agence Crolard, place de la Gare, sells bus tickets to the destinations around Annecy and Lac d'Annecy and Lac Léman. It also arranges excursions by minibus to sites of panoramic interest in July and August.
Continue reading "Other Miscellany and Things to Do in Annecy, France" »
We packed the hiking boots and poles away for the duration of the trip since it was seriously hot with today's high forecasted to be 86F., and going up in increments each day. Hiking is foolhardy in this heat and with exposed conditions in the mountains. Even without the hiking, it already appeared that there was enough activity in Annecy, France to keep us occupied.
Breakfast in the Hotel de Paris' adorable breakfast room with croissants, bread, yogurt, fruit, juice and good coffee while trying to decide what to do today. Since it's gorgeous and hot, what better excursion than the Lac Annecy boat cruise at 10:30 a.m. called the "circuit omnibus." Here's an all French link to the boat company but they do speak fluent English in their office. A circular tour of Lac Annecy costs 15.40 Euros which entitles you to get on and/or off the boat at any stop and reboard. The kicker is there are only three sailings a day and it would be unrealistic to think you could do any more than one or two stops at the most. Compagnie des Bateaux.
Continue reading "A Boat Cruise on Lac Annecy, France" »
It was difficult to find a hotel in Annecy, the large majority of which do not serve half pension, our druthers. A mass of e-mails inquiries sent off, I waited...and waited...and waited. I thought the economy was bad around the world and anticipated hotels snapping up my request for five nights. A resend of inquiries again stating I needed to know now brought a few replies. Don't you just hate that? Send a one word response, complet and that would satisfy me. Just respond! Beggers can't be choosers and picked the **Hotel de Paris, Annecy. They do not do half-pension but the price was right, seemed to be in a good location and had free WI-FI (that cinches the deal most of the time).
Manager and owner, Florence Deve, couldn't have possibly be warmer and more obliging. Filled with tips, happy to answer questions and obliging to the extreme. The Hotel de Paris is located an easy five-block (give or take) walk from the Annecy train station, and around 15-20 minutes from the Hotel into the center of medieval Annecy and the lake. Instead of just giving directions, Florence grabbed a map, a marker and went to work to show the easiest way into the old section and where to turn.
Continue reading "Hotel de Paris, Annecy, France" »
Annecy, France is a medieval town only 80km/50 miles from Chamonix and 45km/28 from Geneva. In hindsight, it would have been easier to fly Chicago-Geneva instead of Chicago-Paris. Annecy is called "The Venice of Savoie" because of the small canals and streams running out of Lac (Lake) Annecy. It was easy to incorporate five days exploring Annecy along with Chamonix with plans to visit the picturesque villages that surround Lake Annecy. Annecy is also 140km/87 miles east of Lyon and that would simplify the return train journey to Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris.
Annecy has a huge train station and a very nice policeman (lately it seems as if almost everyone speaks English in France) pointed the way towards **Hotel de Paris, our new home for the next four nights. It was at least a five-plus block walk dragging suitcases in the heat and a little confusing because the streets change names every block or so.
Continue reading "The Medieval Town of Annecy, France" »
Off the train in St. Gervais-Le Fayet, the Tourist Office was closed (always on Sunday) and we can't figure out how to use the storage lockers in the station. How much does it cost? Where can we get change? Does it take exact change only? And, there is no one in the train station to ask. "When life gives you lemons, make lemonade...." Ex-Marine walked over to a 2** hotel across the street from the train station and asked if we could pay them 5 Euros to leave the bags for the day. Voila....instant lemonade.
Among Saint Gervais-Le Fayet's attractions are thermal baths with spa treatments, walks and hikes with over 180 km/11 miles of marked paths and trails. Other people who had gotten off the train with us were either waiting for a bus to Megeve (been there, done it...a gorgeous, expensive area), or buying tickets for the Mont-Blanc Tramway. The Mont-Blanc Tramway is a rack & pinion train that operates in the summer. It begins in Le Fayet and takes you to the foot of the Bionnassay Glacier and Nid d'Aigle. The tracks began across the street from the train station and there was a path alongside that you could hike on.
Continue reading "An Unexpected Day in St. Gervais-Le Fayet, France" »
Today was not an ordinary day since we had to get up very early to watch the Chamonix marathon start at 7:00 a.m. in the Place du Triangle de l'Amitie. The excitement was palpable and my heart was pounding in sync with the runners. All announcements were being made in both French and English and it so happened that the woman doing the English translation is from California. She lives in Chamonix and said there were around 1,700 runners with perhaps 10 from the U.S. Runners and families of runners arrived from all directions...View image... proudly wearing red Chamonix Marathon t-shirts. Many, many runners were carrying hiking poles. A smart move because hiking poles absorb some of the pounding on your joints and would also help on the uphill and tricky sections of the course.
A brief refresher about the tough 42.195 km/26.2 miles Chamonix Marathon. The course begins at 1,036m/3,398', goes up to 2,201m/7,221', down to 1,363m/4,471', with one last uphill at 2,016m/6,614'. The hiking poles will come in handy along with mega-stamina to complete. There were mandatory cut-off times and if you weren't at a certain spot by the required time, it was "three strikes and you're out."
Continue reading "The 2009 Chamonix Marathon, June 28, 2009, France" »
Eating breakfast on a partially cloudy day, we could see runners on the other side of the L'Arve River heading for the starting point of the cross-country at 8:30 a.m., and then the 10km at 9:00 a.m., both beginning at the parapente area by the Sports Center. Inhaled breakfast and walked as fast as possible to the start but missed the start by five minutes. However, we were there in time for the 10k...View image...and immediately got choked up watching the camaraderie between runners, still thinking, maybe I should have given it a shot. I miss the fellowship but don't miss training and getting up early for races. There was also going to be a mini-cross race for children beginning at different times (between 10:30-11:00 a.m.) depending on ages.
The winner of the 10k was Erik Gramstad of Norway. Erik's time was 38:40 and lives and works in Geneva. He also told us he runs cross-country outside of Oslo in the mountains of Norway. Erik finished at least four minutes ahead of the 2nd place finisher and said the course was very difficult from the half way point on because of water from all the rain last night. If this stalwart Norwegian found it difficult, I never could have completed the race.
Continue reading "A 10k, Cross Country and Les Grands Montets, Chamonix, France" »
The Chamonix 2009 Cross Country and 10k Races (along with smaller distances for children) were going to be held Saturday, June 27 and the Marathon on Sunday, June 28, the day we were leaving for Annecy, France. I saw the posters and announcements all over Chamonix and my eyes lit up. Once a runner, always a runner. Perhaps not a fast runner, or able to do Marathons any more but running is still in my blood and I get all teary-eyed whenever I see a race.
I began running in 1978 and progressed from one mile to 26.2 miles in a four-month period and made poor ex-Marine, who hated every footstep, join me. (I can be very persuasive.) This is definitely not recommended today but 1978 was the Jim Fixx, Alberto Salazar, Bill Rogers, Kathrine Switzer, Lorraine Moller era and neophytes were told to run mega-miles. Anal, obsessive-compulsive, Type A, overachiever listened and began running 10k's, marathons, training 60 miles a week, and trying to convert whomever would listen into becoming runners. This lasted until 1985 when my poor shins, and bony knees couldn't take it anymore. We both still run around three miles several times a week but I will never forget the excitement of my first blue Nike "Waffle trainers" when I became a bouncy, trouncy, runner. S-I-G-H.
Continue reading "The Chamonix 2009 Marathon, Cross Country and 10k Races" »
Cloudy this morning with unsettled weather scheduled for today. An early breakfast to make the 9:17 a.m. train to Vallorcine. Rushing to the train station, the departure board showed retard, a word I'm all too familiar with that means "late." Ten minutes late to be exact. The platform was wall-to-wall people heading in the direction of Vallorcine and the Swiss border. Of course, today is Friday. The Europeans usually begin and end travel on weekends.
When the train arrived, not one seat could be found and one train car was almost completely taken up by a group of young children off for a day's excursion into the mountains. Screaming, yelling and having a wonderful time. NOISY. Even if there was a seat available in this car, I would have stood. The train emptied out at Le Planet-Montroc including all the children. Just two more stops and we were at Vallorcine.
Continue reading "Hiking A Section of the Chamonix Marathon Route in Vallorcine, France" »
Instead of hiking today, we decided to just put on running shoes and take leisurely walk through Chamonix and the valley. I'm having a terrible time sleeping at night since it is light past 10:00 p.m. with sunrise around 5:00 a.m. Breakfast and then headed towards the open area by the Sports Center where parasailers were making perfect landings. One day, I have to get up the courage to try it. Even children older than 5 can take a tandem flight.
Speaking of children. If you bring the little darlings with to Chamonix, there are: mini-clubs; baby sitters; play areas at the Sports Center; Paradis les Praz with a zip line, donkey rides, games; mini-golf; paint ball; easy hikes; junior mountaineering courses (12-17 year olds); horse riding; cycling; canyoning; and at least three companies offering multi-activity courses. Sounds more exciting than a summer camp to me.
Continue reading "Rock Climbing and Relaxing in Chamonix, France" »
Another glorious blue sky day with abundant sunshine. Down for breakfast and over to wait for a bus to La Tour at the bottom of the Col de Balme area. A hop, skip and jump from the Swiss border and part of the Tour de Mont-Blanc. I have some miscellaneous TIPS for you:
- The Chamonix buses will only stop if someone is actually waiting (or waving it down) at the bus stop and you must push the buzzer inside the bus for the bus to arret (stop). Otherwise, the bus will blow right on by;
- There are very clean toilets with toilet paper at the bottom and top of every lift;
- Not only does the Chamonix Tourist Information Office have a strong WI-FI signal, but they also set out lounge chairs in the sun every day for tourists to use. Free!;
- Check and recheck lift opening and closing schedules; and
- Trains and buses DO NOT operate on a daily basis. There are Sunday schedules, holiday schedules, school vacation schedules. We've learned the hard way. Ask and ask again...
Continue reading "The Col de Balme is Part of the Tour de Mont-Blanc, France" »
Coming down the Planpraz lift, you could see the tented food stalls below in the Place du Mont-Blanc. I had forgotten that today was the weekly Saturday morning market in Chamonix. One side of the Place du Mont-Blanc Square was filled with clothes, shoes, belts, artwork, jewelry and other miscellany for sale. Prices were not out of line but almost all clothing articles were made, where else, in China.
On the other side of the Place du Mont-Blanc were the food sellers, and saliva began dripping from my lips. A food market like any other in Europe but I dearly love...food, glorious food.... Vegetables included some of the largest artichokes I've ever seen, artistically arranged radishes...View image...fresh strawberries, raspberries, sweet figs...View image, huge boxes of the fragile Girolle (Chanterelle) mushrooms. Vendors selling pizza, rotisserie chickens. And what would a market be without a fresh flower section. One dozen roses for 12 Euros.
Continue reading "The Chamonix, France Saturday Market" »
Back down to the middle station called Plan de l'Aiguille, 2,317m/7,601' and took all the warm clothing off. Five thousand feet in altitude change makes a big difference in weather and how you feel. Clear and crowded today with hikers coming up from the bottom, hikers walking down to Chamonix...View image, some heading towards Lac Bleu, a 1-1/2 hour walk from the middle station, and still others taking a path to the Mer de Glace that remains fairly level and follows the contours of the mountains.
Other tourists had no intention of hiking and just sat in the sun, drinking and eating in one of the small cafes at this level before taking the next tram down to Chamonix. A big surprise when a man accompanied by his donkeys appeared at the middle station. The last time we saw donkeys was on the Robert Louis Stevenson trip in France. The Scottish writer left Monastier sur Gazeille, France on foot, September 22, 1878 with his donkey, Modestine, on a long distance walk and it's still possible to hire donkeys to carry your goods on this classic. We couldn't get a clear-cut answer from this man exactly what he was doing with his donkeys. They weren't loaded, no riders...
Continue reading "The Plan de l'Aiguille Middle Station, Chamonix, France" »
I pulled back the drapes this morning to a brilliant blue sky, sunny day. Jumped out of bed and began preparation to haul butt over the Aiguille du Midi lift hoping that not too many bus loads of day trippers were in line before us. The Hotel d'Arve is completely filled even though season doesn't officially begin until July 4.
Out the door for a five-block walk over to the Aiguille du Midi cable cars with light jackets on, backpacks filled with warm stuff for the top, and maps. The cable car line was longer than the last time because it is a crystal clear day. There must be little counters in the turnstiles because the line halts and doors leading to the large cable car shut when the exact amount of people (65-75) the tram safely holds is reached...View image. The trams leave every 10 minutes and we waited approximately 15 minutes to load. The multi-passes have chips embedded along with photos and you just wave it in front of the turnstile unit.
Continue reading "The Top of The Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France on A Sunny Day" »
Today, we took the free train to Les Houches, a small town in the Chamonix Valley. I had seriously considered staying in Les Houches but was happy I chose the center of Chamonix instead. None of the hotels are by the train station, it would have been a schlep and Les Houches is also very small and quiet. If you have your own transportation, it's a horse of a different color and this is the place to stay for skiing. The first area I've seen with my kind of ski runs. Nice, wide and intermediate.
Les Houches has an extremely nice tourist office and a young man gave us maps and suggested different hiking options. Following his advice, we walked over to the Bellevarde lift and began working our way up what looked like a gravel road to the top of Prarion Lift. Thanks to my little GPS, I can tell you it was 3.65 miles from Les Houches' base altitude, 975m/3,198' to 1,853m/6,079' at the top, and took 2:45 minutes. (Anal to the extreme!) It was cloudy and darnright cold the last hour up and we were freezing by the time we got to the Prarion Gondola. This route is part of both the Tour du Mont Blanc and the GR5.
Continue reading "Les Houches in The Chamonix Valley, France" »
There are fabulous views from our hotel of the Mount Blanc massif. What a sight! If a person has only one chance to visit one mountain area in Europe, there are three that I would recommend in the following order. Mont Blanc, Chamonix France - Matterhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland - and the Jungfrau region, again in Switzerland. They are the most popular, breath-taking areas, and the first two are the most expensive to visit. No one is giving away anything on the mountains. A two-star hotel will run considerably more than a two-star hotel in, let's say, Au, Austria but it's location...location...location. You'll get more for your money by staying in smaller, less expensive areas and just making day trips to the "Big Three."
It's supposed to get warmer each day but, right now, the weather is ideal for hiking. Another short walk to the Plan Praz/Le Brevant lift at 1,035m/3,395'. The hiking sign said three hours to the top of Plan Praz at 1,999m/6,558', and an additional 1-1/2 hours to Le Brevant, 2,525m/8,284'. Seemed like a doable up hill to Plan Praz (forget the top of Le Brevant. I am "tetched in the head" but still have a few sane marbles left) and off we went. There were just two scary areas, one crossing over a little stream and the other on rocks. Other than that, not bad with the exception of looking out for mountain bikers flying down the same trails that made me nervous going up!
Continue reading "Plan Praz and The Mont Blanc Massif in Chamonix, France" »
Woozy from both the altitude and cable car rides on the Aiguille du Midi, ex-Marine and I walked back over to Montenvers Rack and Pinion Railroad...View image... to ride up to the Mer de Glace (literally, "sea of ice") and see what we missed yesterday during the rainstorm. The rack railway was invented by Emil Viktor Stub, a Swiss engineer who installed railways on steep inclines and this little red train has been running since 1908. I'd certainly rather take a railway than mule like visitors did until 1905.
Once up at the top of Montenvers train station, there are hiking trails that lead to the Plan de'Anguille (mid-station), down to the Mer de Glace and even back down to Chamonix (the same trail we took up). The top station has a cafe and restaurant that overlook the Mer de Glace glacier, and peaks of Les Drus (3,754m/12,316'), Les Grands Jorasses (4,205m/13,795') and the Aiguille du Grepon (3,482m/11,161').
Continue reading "Back to Montenvers Mer de Glace, Chamonix, France" »
Torrential rains all night in Chamonix but it's just cloudy today. The Hotel l'Arve has free WI-FI but I'm having trouble getting on and just walked to the Tourist Information Office (two blocks away) to use theirs. They have fabulous WI-FI and a person can even sit in the square outside to pick up a great signal. By the way, McDonald's is also a completely cyber restaurant with a wonderful signal.
Since the weather was iffy, we decided to walk over to the Aiguille du Midi cable car, use our passes and then take the Montenvers train up to the Mer de Glace to see what we missed in yesterday's rain. There is always a line for the Aiguille du Midi cable car and tourists come by the busload to Chamonix just for this one excursion. They spend the day taking cable cars up and down the mountains, shopping and eating. Doesn't sound bad to me... TIP: It will be cold up there. Bring warm weather gear in your daypack. You'll need it!
Continue reading "The Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix, France" »
My alarm actually went off at 7:30 a.m. otherwise we would still have been in la-la land completely exhausted. Dressed and down for the daily breakfast buffet, Hotel de L'Arve has only one kind of cheese and bologna. My bologna has a first name...it's.... However, there was yogurt, juice, can boil your own eggs, dry cereal, coffee/tea, baguettes, cakes and I'm confident we won't starve.
The first stop was at one of the best Tourist Information Offices I've ever visited to get all the poop. Maps, what's going on in Chamonix, bus and train timetables, and the Mont Blanc pass. The Mont Blanc pass is good for 2-15 days on all the cable cars and lifts with the exception of Aiguille section to Pont Helbronner, Italy. That part is the only additional charge. You can choose from a consecutive day pass or non-consecutive day pass. The passes are expensive but individual cable car/lifts are very, very expensive if bought individually. Hmmm...have to think about his.
Continue reading "Montenvers Train and the Mer de Glace, Chamonix, France" »
The flight from Chicago to Washington, DC was late because of a mechanical and United substituted equipment that just arrived from Heathrow. No big deal since we were on an early flight. The United flight from Washington, DC to Paris taxied out to the runway and then the pilot's voice came over the intercom. The manifest had an unaccounted suitcase without the passenger on board, and we'd have to taxi back to the terminal to unload this suitcase.
Now, the flight is running one hour late and I'm beginning to stress that we'll miss the 9:25 a.m. train from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Lyon. That would extend the day by a minimum of three hours until the next train from the airport left for Lyon. Trains leave every hour from the Gare de Lyon in Paris and I did not want to deal with taking the RER to Chatelet, dragging suitcases and changing lines into the Gare de Lyon. That is a big pain in the butt. The shining light on this debacle in the making was the United Airlines flight was oversold and they upgraded us to business class! This is why we stick to one airline.
Continue reading "Travel is Stressful - Airplanes and Trains to Chamonix, France" »
Where to stay in Chamonix? Deciding on a hotel is always my most difficult part when planning independent travel. We prefer a hotel, either two-star or three-star depending on the rates, with half pension/demi pension, for several reasons:
- Dinners in Europe are expensive in relation to what you get. An entree ranges between 15-25 Euros and when you add an additional 35% (value of Euro against the Dollar), this is expensive. Half pension dinners usually include an appetizer, a choice of entrees, salad and dessert for the same amount; and
- We are just too tired after sightseeing or hiking all day to begin looking for a restaurant at dinner time. Much easier to return to the hotel, relax, bathe and come downstairs for an apertif before dinner.
Continue reading "Planning A Chamonix, France Trip" »
Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the Alps and in Western Europe at an altitude of 4,810m/15,781'. It lies between Italy and France with the two famous towns of Courmayeur on the Italian side and Chamonix on the French side. The summit of Mont Blanc is actually on the French-Italian border. There is a scarier beyond belief cable car that ascends and descends Mont Blanc on both sides.
One of the most famous hiking trips in the world is called the Tour du Mont Blanc, a classic 10-12 day circuit of the Mont Blanc massif beginning in Chamonix. The hike leads from Chamonix-Les Houches-Les Contamines-Les Champieux, France; Rifugio Elisabetta-Courmayeur-Rifugio Bonatti, Italy; La Fouly-Champex, Switzerland; Trient-Argentiere-Chamonix back in France where the Tour du Mont Blanc ends. About 10,000 trekkers attempt the entire 250km/155 miles each year but we planned on only day hiking for 10 days.
Continue reading "The Mont Blanc Area of France" »
One last breakfast at the Hotel Moderne Saint Germain in the Latin Quarter of Paris before putting on the backpacks and walking two blocks to the nearest RER B stop for the 30-45 minute ride out to Charles de Gaulle Airport. The three days in Paris fast forwarded too quickly and I really didn't want to go home. One day, we'll do an "American Express" and just say, "Oh sweetheart, why don't we just use the American Express Card and stay?" Ha... Fat chance...
Allow yourself enough time in case there is a hang-up in the RER system, just like today. It took forever for the train heading in the Charles de Gaulle direction to arrive. The board showed 9 minutes, then 7 minutes, then 9 minutes again, finally went down to 5 minutes, hung at 3 minutes for at least 6 minutes, while the platform became more and more crowded with morning commuters and travelers heading to Charles de Gaulle. When it finally pulled in late, it was a mob scene while people literally pushed and shoved their way onto the train. I may be little but I'm mighty and smooshed in. ex-Marine almost didn't make it and began shouting, "My wife is in there, let me in" until someone moved an inch and he mangled his way on..
Continue reading "Use Public Transport from Paris to Charles de Gaulle Airport" »
There is no end to amount of reviews on Paris restaurants. The Red Michelin Guide, Fodor, Frommers, travel magazines, the Internet. Each and every travel writer and tourist has an opinion. Dining in Paris restaurants has never been inexpensive in comparison to the United States even without the pathetic exchange rate of the Euro against the dollar. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I love food and it doesn't have to be haute cuisine. A yummy Gyro or Tuna Sandwich (the best ever was still the one we ate in Tunisia with loads of Harissa on it) can do it for us. With three days in Paris, I spent a minimum of six hours a day on the Internet doing a little research looking for good, "no-star" restaurants, culling through the favorites and finally printing off directions, phone numbers and descriptions of six different recommendations.
This is what we experienced and what YOU should know before you go.
- Many restaurants are closed on Sunday and Monday, two out of our three days in Paris.
Continue reading "The "No Star" Restaurants of Paris, France" »
The Boulevard Saint-Michel is one of the two major streets in the Latin Quarter. We discovered this area in 1978 when ex-Marine and I took our five children to Paris and around Europe for four memorable weeks, staying in small "no-star hotels" and pensions with toilets down the hall. The Hotel Albe was a dingy, no-star "hotel" then, cheap, and where the seven of us stayed. A perfect area for teens and adults in the heart of the Latin Quarter with the big student bookstores (such as Gibert Joseph and the Gibert Jeune) right outside the rooms. The kids were even thrilled to witness a student riot one night from the safety of the hotel room with riot police, sirens blaring and lots of tumult. Now, the Hotel Albe is a completely redone three-star hotel and even more expensive than the Hotel Moderne Saint Germain where we were staying.
This entire area is filled with chic boutiques, book shops, cafes, restaurants along with the Seine, Notre Dame and other famous sites at your doorstep. The Rue de la Huchette especially is lined with Greek seafood tavernas and gyros stands. The Boulevard Saint-Michel actually begins in the Place Saint-Michel with its beautiful fountains and sidewalk cafes around the perimeter.
Continue reading "The Boulevard Saint-Michel Area of The Latin Quarter, Paris" »
We crossed over the Seine on Pont de l'Alma bridge. The right bank side of the bridge is close to the Pont de l'Alma tunnel where Diana, Princess of Wales, was tragically killed in the infamous car accident. There is a Flame of Liberty monument there that has become an unofficial memorial to Diana. The Flame of Liberty monument is actually a full-sized, replica of the torch flame carried in the hand of the Statue of Liberty, New York City.
You'll easily recognize this spot by the throngs of tourists with cameras (like me) snapping a picture and bending over to look in the Pont de l'Alma tunnel with the heavy traffic speeding by. A wrong turn somewhere while looking for the Avenue des Champs-Elysees that ended up in front of the prestigious Four Seasons George V Hotel. Really discombobulated, another turn and we were on the fancy Avenue Montaigne. The Avenue Montaigne is named after Michel Montaigne, remember? The statue whose foot we rubbed for good luck in exams on Rue des Ecoles?
Continue reading "The Posh and Pricey Avenue Montaigne in Paris" »
Our last full day in Paris was a drizzly, and grey day. Tanked up on breakfast, we began the over two-mile walk towards the Eiffel Tower area where I was going to attempt to find one last lunch recommendation, Cafe Constant. The walk took us along Boulevard Saint-Germain and passed the Les Deux Magots, Le Cafe de Flore. Both restaurants are famous for being the haunts of French intellectuals during the post-war years along with writers and patrons including: Jean-Paul Sartre, Ernest Hemingway, Albert Camus and Pablo Picasso.
We browsed the restaurant menus along the way to see what lunch hours they kept and if they had a prix fix/menu du jour special. From Boulevard Saint-Germain, we diverted to Rue St. Dominique that begins around the Ecole Militaire (Napoleon's Tomb). This was the first time we had ever seen Rue St. Dominique (let alone walked through this area) and were astounded by the numbers of really wonderful looking patisseries and small restaurants up and down the length. Cafe Constant was a short two blocks away from the Eiffel Tower. Christian Constant, who owns four restaurants, is reputed to turn out some of the best food in Paris and Cafe Constant was serving lunch today until 2:30 p.m. Alas, the menu du jour was once again not up our alley. That took care of recommendations to celebrate ex-Marine's 70th birthday and this was getting downright depressing. ex-Marine may get his wish and eat Gyros for dinner.
Continue reading "Walking to the Eiffel Tower Along the Left Bank of Paris" »
Monday afternoon saw us walking back to Chez Janou with time to walk around the Place des Vosges before lunch. The Place des Vosges is the oldest square in Paris and part of Paris' original urban planning. This square consists of 36-39 houses made of red brick and constructed under Henri IV from 1605-1612. There is an arcade around the entire square filled with cafes, nightclubs, and shops in what were once private residences. The entire Marais District has a strong gay presence. All you have to do is look in a few of the shop windows at some of the extremely flamboyant and idiosyncratic clothes. I wish I had the guts to wear some of these myself! (Watch the Place des Vosges video.)
Chez Janou Bistrot restaurant wasn't nearly as crowded as it was on Sunday and the "Menu du Jour" was vegetable soup and veal slice. ex-Marine ordered that while I ordered off the menu. Moules (mussels) gratin and a green salad with goat cheese, 50cl of the house wine, a carafe of l'eau ordinaire (tap water) and we settled into this cozy dining room, starving. (What else is new...)
Continue reading "Lunch at Chez Janou in the Marais District of Paris, France" »
A gigantic breakfast at the hotel of ham and cheese sandwiches, yogurt, coffee, and we set off to visit the Musee de Cluny. That is, if it wasn't too crowded. The Museum of the Middle Ages is housed in two Parisian monuments: the Gallo-Roman "thermes" (baths) from the 1st-3rd centuries and the Cluny Abbey, late 15th century. Completely different from all the other museums we've visited in Paris, the Musee de Cluny offered a unique view of the art and history of man in Roman Gaul and 15 centuries of European art and history at one location...View image.
Entrance is 8 Euros with no senior reductions but free coat check. There is a visitor's guide in English that describes all 23 rooms on two levels, and we spent two hours along with many school groups making our way from room to room. You are allowed to video and take photos without a flash.
Continue reading "Musee de Cluny Museum of The Middle Ages, Paris" »
Across the street, down the lively St. Andre des Arts, Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine in the heart of St. Germain des Pres, the 6th Arrondissement of Paris. The Rue St. Andre des Arts is a narrow 13th century street that leads from the Place Saint Michel to Place Buci near Odeon. Interesting shops line the street along with what seemed to be hundreds of restaurants in this entire Saint Germain des Pres area. If you can't find a place to eat, shop or stay, your eyes are definitely closed.
The Rue de Buci differs slightly from Rue St. Andre des Arts by its plethora of food for sale in shops and street markets. This is one of my favorites streets to look at with all the fresh seafood, purveyors selling produce and absolutely yummy pastry shops. Of course, there are cafes and boutiques. What would any Paris street worth its salt be without a cafe or boutique? The Rue de Buci is most lively on weekdays.
Continue reading "The Vibrant Rue St. Andre des Arts, Rue de Buci and Right Bank of Paris" »
Still walking east on the Rue de Rivoli, we passed many department stores, one of the few merry go rounds still operating in Paris until the Rue de Rivoli changed its name to Rue St. Antoine, only a few blocks from Bastille and now in the Marais District. A left down the Rue des Tournelles heading towards Chez Janou Bistrot on 2 Rue Roger Verlomme in this 3rd Arrondissement. Chez Janou was one of my restaurant recommendations and we were looking forward to a late lunch/early dinner.
Still on the right track, there was a Jewish wedding and Synagogue de la Rue des Tournelles, built in 1876, directly in front of us...View image. I knew the Marais District is still a major center of the Paris Jewish community, but being fixated on food, hadn't given it much thought. Jewish people have been living in Paris since the 1st century B.C. Between expulsions, the Jews always returned and settled in different areas. Ile de la Cite, Rue de la Harpe (close to where we were staying now), and it wasn't until the 19th century that the Marais area once again became one of the favored areas for Jews to settle in. Now the Marais is one of Paris' trendiest quarters as we found out for ourselves the next day. Right now, let's find Chez Janou and eat!
Continue reading "Towards The Marais District on the Right Bank of Paris" »
The Hotel Moderne St. Germaine on the Rue des Ecoles is located in the 5th Arrondisement of Paris on the Rive Gauche (Left Bank) of the Seine. Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements or districts. This makes finding your way around even easier because an address will say...5th Arrondisement, 10th Arrondisement, etc... The 1st through the 7th Arrondissements is where the majority of famous attractions and tourists are found.
We usually stay in the Latin Quarter for its vibe, trendy shops, restaurants and closeness to Notre Dame Cathedral, La Congiergerie where Marie-Antoinette was imprisoned, the two natural islands in the Seine River - Ile de la Cite and Ile St-Louis The world-famous and historic Sorbonne University of Paris is also on the Rue des Ecoles (street of schools) along with its Schools of Medicine, Philosophy, Libraries and more. During the week you'll see students from all countries rushing to and from classes, sitting on curbs studying, eating fast food, and locked in embraces.
Continue reading "Le Comptoir du Relais Bistro, Paris, France" »
It was off the RER B at Saint Michel-Notre Dame, walk up the stairs and take a fast look right. There was the always heart stopping sight of Notre Dame sitting on Ile de la Cite and the bustling square, Place Saint Michel. We reluctantly turned away from this sight and began the easy and familiar walk to Hotel Moderne Saint Germain on the Rue des Ecoles (street of schools). Even though it's been four years since we took the walk, it felt like coming home. The Hotel Moderne redid the main floor last year and it looks very sharp even though they installed florescent lights in the breakfast area that changes color every few minutes. A pea shade of green early in the morning is not my best color.
We chose this hotel again because the Internet nightly rate included free WI-FI, a bountiful buffet breakfast and all taxes and service. If you didn't bring your own laptop, a free iMac is available in the lounge area for all guests to use. A big plus to arriving on a Sunday is no waiting for a room until the usual noon check-in time since most guests check out on Sundays. However, they do have a luggage room in case your room isn't available yet.
Continue reading "The Hotel Moderne Saint Germain on The Left Bank of Paris" »
Where would you choose to celebrate a milestone birthday, anniversary or other extraordinary occasion? ex-Marine (husband, Steve) who turned 70, in November. chose Paris, France. Now Paris in the middle of November may not appear to be a great choice on the surface unless you get lucky with the weather. Chances are it will be rainy and chilly with fewer daylight hours but Paris will always be Paris despite the weather. Paris is one of the most gorgeous and exciting cities in the world throughout the year. And, on the plus side, the long lines of tourists are gone.
This is where ex-Marine wanted to celebrate and by golly, that is where we would celebrate no matter what. His decision made, Steve then dropped all the logistics and planning in my lap. Air, hotel, what to see and all the other miscellany.
Continue reading "A Milestone Birthday Celebration in Paris, France" »
It was time to pack our bags, leave Perpignan and board the direct (thankfully) TGV from Perpignan to Charles de Gaulle Airport, zooming in around 8:00 p.m. By TGV (High-Speed Train), it's a comfortable, six-hour train ride that gave plenty of time to reflect on this trip. A fast McDonald's hamburger in CDG Airport (this made four consecutive nights of sandwiches) and free transfer to the least expensive hotel I could find by the airport, Ibis North for one night before flying home the next day. Ibis was having a "30 Sale" and the hotel came out to $50 when converted into Euros. It couldn't have possibly gotten any cheaper than this!
Thinking back on the past two weeks, I do have some suggestions along with miscellaneous thoughts. Along the Cote Vermeille that stretches along the coast of the Mediterranean to the Spanish border, I strongly recommend visiting the small town of Collioure -
- Collioure has history. Roman and Greek sailors traveled here. It became a trading port in 673 and was the summer residence of the Mallorcan Court in the 13th century;
- Notre Dame des Anges Church is perched up on foundations built in the sea. The Belfy was originally a warning tower for the harbor; and
Continue reading "The Mediterrean Areas of France and Spain" »
We never had a chance to even explore La Bastide St. Louis, the area of Carcassone we walked through on the way to the walled Citadel, built in 1247 and considered "New." La Cite was the center of crusades against the heretics in the 13th century and after the towns surrounding La Cite were destroyed during battles, Saint Louis authorized the building of La Bastide on the left side of the river Aude. In this area are mansions, a covered market, gardens and walking paths along the Aude River (saw people fishing) and chapels. I would really like to revisit Carcassonne and spend some time exploring La Bastide and perhaps walk along the tow paths.
The beautiful Canal du Midi was constructed in 1810 and has been included in UNESCO's World Heritage List...View image. Moor your leisure craft in Carcassonne or take a boat trip from April to October. The Canal du Midi runs for 240 kms/150 miles and is filled by a complicated system of feeder canals and reservoirs. A number of the 350 bridges, locks, aqueducts and overflow outlets haven't been altered since they were constructed over 300 years ago.
Continue reading "Around Carcassonne, France and The Canal du Midi" »
The Rue Cros-Mayrevieille leads directly to the castle but we wandered up and down the streets for hours before going to the Place du Chateau. Building began on the Viscount's Castle, otherwise known as the Chateau Comtal, in the early 1120's and continued to 1229. It was the seat of power in the town and is open to the public with an admission charge. Rather than entering, we just enjoyed the views from the outside. Arrow slits in the towers, and grassy moat surrounding it...View image...with students picnicking in the moat. You can walk the inner wall only with guided tours from the Viscount's Castle.
Carcassonne was built over the ruins of a former Roman fortress and was the center of the crusades against the heretics, the Cathars. Who were the Cathars? A religious sect that placed them at odds with the Catholic Church who regarded the sect as dangerously heretical. Pope Innocent III then used the excuse of "heretics" to call for a crusade against the Cathars (known as the Albigensian Crusade) systematically eradicating Cathars in a massive genocide in the South of France. Carcassonne was besieged in 1209 shortly after the Crusaders' massacred the entire population of Beziers.
Continue reading "The Carcassonne, France Viscount's Castle, La Bastide St. Louis and Cathars" »
Admission is free to the La Cite Citadel with the only exception being the Viscount's Castle, 11-13th century. There were busloads of teenagers (probably on school outings) along with other tourists at this fantastic UNESCO World Heritage Site who had arrived at the same time as we. However, this site is always busy - off season, or not. La Cite still has a population of approximately 120 people who live within these walls along with hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, creperies, ice cream, and patisseries galore.
It was across the moat along with the other tourists, to walk the medieval streets, stopping constantly to take photographs, turn the camcorder on and off and/or just to stop and stare at the different towers, walls, medieval houses with sensory overload. There aren't that many streets but one and all were packed with sights (or restaurants...had to inspect all the menus). My feet felt as if they had walked every bit of the 3 kms/1.85 miles over the cobblestone streets just inside the Citadel by the end of the day.
Continue reading "Inside the Mighty Carcassonne, France Fortress" »
Another sunny and cool day but we're still going to the medieval walled town of Carcassonne, one of Europe's most dramatic sights but first another big buffet breakfast at the Best Western Park Hotel. Instead of waiting for the No. 1 bus that stops right in front of the hotel, we walked to the train station to catch a train to Narbonne and change there for Carcassonne.
If we got up earlier and took an 8:30 a.m. train, this entire journey could have been easier since no train changes were involved. But we didn't, and it was only when I looked at the Perpignan Station departures board that I discovered this particular Perpignan-Narbonne train was a TEOZ. (You must understand that ex-Marine never bothers with details and that way he can shout.. "another fine mess you got us into".) FYI: On all TGV and TEOZ trains. reservations obligatoire. In plain English, you must have a seat reservation. This would ordinarily be no big deal but a seat reservation would have cost an additional 3 euros/person for a 30-minute ride. The nice SNCF person behind the counter suggested we just wait 20 more minutes for the next train, a local TER with no reservations required.
Continue reading "A Day Visit to Carcassonne, France" »
Perpignan has a Museum of Modern Art with works by Chagall, Braque, Matisse, and Miro, but even though we'd scheduled three days to spend in the Perpignan area, it didn't give us enough time to see and do everything.
Instead, trusty map, and we're actually beginning to find our way around the medieval core of Perpignan. We walked by Le Castillets' twin towers quite a few times before realizing what it was. These towers are the emblem of Perpignan, and survived the demolition of the ramparts in 1642. Le Castillets was built in the late 14th century and stands at the point where the new and old towns meet. (No wonder it was always on our walking route.) There is the Catalan Museum of Roussillon Folk Art Traditions located inside. No time to visit and, by the way, it's another Tramontana day even off the mountains.
Continue reading "Ramparts, Walls and Other Medieval Attractions - Perpignan, France" »
A pilgrimage today to find the Palais de Kings of Mallorca that looked close on the map but wasn't. Thank goodness for directional signs. We'd stop every block or so, consult more signs and map, and a passerby took pity on us when he saw us standing stock-still looking bewildered. (Don't ever argue the point with us that the French are rude.)
The Palace was built from 1276 onward and is considered a remarkable example of medieval civil and military architecture in Southern France. The Palace was built for the court of Jaime II (James II) of Mallorca with the last important building carried out by his successors, the Kings of Aragon. The main courtyard is entered through red brick ramparts and up ramps...View image, paid an admission charge, and used a series of stairways to visit the Upper Chapel (the lower one wasn't open) and Dining Room.
Continue reading "Palace of The Mallorcan Kings - Perpignan, France" »
France "sprung" ahead to daylight savings time early this morning and the Perpignan weatherman was correct. It looks a lot better than yesterday (no rain) but is still cool and windy. First stop always was Tourist Information at the Palais of Congres. Perperignan has two tourist offices and the big "I" should always be your first stop no matter where you travel for maps, brochures, bus and train schedules, what's going on in town, required information that will make your stay easier. And, there are usually clean toilets (always important) there or in the immediate vicinity.
Armed with these, we began following the tourist route in Perpignan's old center and got lost again, even with the large map in front of my eyes. The old quarter streets run on angles, peter out after a block, and go higgly-piggly in all directions. Walking, walking, and walking, the area began resembling an "arabian/moroccan/turkish" quarter with crowds of people carrying totes, food, schmoozing with friends while drinking coffee on the sidewalk and selling gyros. One more turn, and there was the Wednesday-Sunday Morning only, Place Cassanyes flea market.
Continue reading "Markets and Churches of Medieval Perpignan, France" »
(The Vermillion Coast of France continued) We, along with Helen and Kevin, spent the remainder of the day being transferred, first, to Collioure. The van zoomed through the Spain/France border where no one was checking identity papers today. The driver said it can take over one hour depending on the day and time of year but no worries today.
In Collioure and still raining, we waited at the bus stand for the one-hour ride (1 Euro) to the Perpignan Gare Routiere bus station. Jumped off the bus, no taxis anywhere around, grabbed a map and set off pulling wheelie suitcases to the Best Western Park Hotel . The hotel had some good weekend rates and was ideally located (once we found it and dried off). Right across the street from the Palais de Congres and short walk into the old quarter of Perpignan. This Best Western Park Hotel has free wi-fi, a big plus for me.
Continue reading "Travel to Perpignan, France via Collioure" »
The week's hiking portion from France into Spain was over. Six hikers staying at Hotel S/aguarda in Cadaques (Helen and Kevin, two French ladies and us) were going to be transferred back to Colliioure by van. A 1-1/2 hour stop was scheduled in Figueres first for those who wanted to visit the famous Teatre-Museu Dali (Dali Theater Museum). The weather changed from brilliant sun and warmth to cool with rain, a perfect day to spend inside in a museum.
TIP: If you are a student, senior or are traveling with children, always present identity papers/passports for a possible discount at any attraction. We showed our passports and saved 2 euros each. Lucky for us, the Salvador Dali Theatre-Museum opened at 9:30 a.m. instead of the 10:30 a.m., allowing a little extra time to visit. I've never been a Dali fan but this museum turned out to be extremely interesting and my grandchildren would have loved the bizarre and amazing exhibits.
Continue reading "The Teatre-Museu Dali in Figueres, Spain" »
Hotel S'aguarda also serves a huge breakfast buffet with ham, cheese, yogurt, etc. A sign over the tables asks "Please do not take food away" which we've seen people do all over Europe ( I had no intention of doing that). Another sunny and warm day, perfect for the walk to Casa Dali in Port Lligat, one of his many homes.
The Cadaques Tourist Office had given us detailed information on three walking routes in the area. Route 1 begins in Port Lligat, considered medium dificulty and takes 1-1/2 hours each direction to Cap de Creus, the most easterly part of Spain. Route 3, also medium difficulty and 1-1/2 hours heads up to St. Sebastian Hermitage overlooking Cadaques. Route 4, easy, and 45 minutes, goes to Cala Nana Lighthouse. Strange that there was no Route 2. Just 1, 3 and 4. The GR 11 and GR 92 (long distance hiking routes) also work their way through Cadaques.
Continue reading "Casa Salvador Dali in Cadaques, Spain" »
Both of us nearly fainted when we walked into the Hotel Porto Christo dining room for breakfast. A gigantic buffet of eggs, bacon, juice, yogurt, breads, sweet rolls, juices, cold cuts...View image...everything. The biggest breakfast we'd seen during the trip and you should have seen us eat. Still trying to make a decision, do we walk or take a taxi. Today is supposed to be the longest walking day of the trip through rugged maquis landscape (dense growth of small trees and shrubs in the Mediterranean area) to Cap de Creus, the easternmost point on the Spanish mainland. The distance was 16.5 km/10.5 miles to this point with another 6 km/4 miles left to go on paths to Cadaques. I must have looked over the topographic map umpteen times looking for a bailout point if I got too tired. The highway, small village, public transportation but there was nothing. That decided it and we ordered a taxi to drive us to Cadaques.
Instead, we spent the morning walking around Port de la Selva watching the fishing boats...View image...View image, and fishermen mending nets before the taxi came. A 12 km/7.5 mile taxi ride cost 25 euros! Rather on the expensive side, wouldn't you say?
Continue reading "Walking From Port de La Selva to Cadaques, Spain" »
Today's route called for steep climb from sea level to the Monastery of Saint Pere de Rodes near the summit of San Salvador peak. This monastery is considered the most important building from the Roman era in Catalonia and can be reached by car (if you are driving) along with footpaths from Llanca or halfway to Port de la Selva in Vall de Creu. The trip notes went on to state walking along the Serrat de la Guerra ridge. Approximately 12 km/7 miles, with five hours walking. The Tramontana is still blowing and the topographic map shows a seaside route that follows the shore all the way from Llanca to Port de la Selva. I really would have liked to visit the Monastery of Saint Pere de Rodes but that's not going to happen. Sea shore route, here we come, even if the distances are the same.
It's sunny, windy and it didn't take long before we stopped along the route and changed to t-shirts because that sun was hot. A very easy walk and one that included a wonderful promenade into Port de la Selva for walkers that extended several miles with different overlooks into the sea and Port de la Selva in the distance with small, white houses climbing the mountain slopes..
Continue reading "Walking From Llanca to Port de la Selva, Spain" »
How can I tactfully relate what today was like? I can't. It was one mean "M-F". It began with ample sunshine and we decided it was going to be a t-shirt day. The usual routine...ate breakfast, left the suitcases for transport...and walked outside. It was downright cool if not cold and the wind was roaring across the mountains. Back inside Hotel La Masia, changed into long sleeved polypropylene shirts and set off on the GR 92 right in front of the hotel. Got lost immediately and had to do a little backtracking before finding the right way, up stairs between buildings.
Continuing up the first hill with the train tracks below, it became windier and windier (if that was possible). The "Tramontana/Tramuntana" winds were vicious. The Italian word is, Tramontano, from the mountains. However you spell it, the Tramontana is a cold wind from the north or northeast that can be anywhere from Force 8 (Fresh Gale) to Force 9 (Strong Gale) on the Beaufort Scale. A Force 8 will break twigs from trees and cause cars to veer on road. A Force 9 will blow over small trees, break large branches and topple signs and canopies. And this (is what we discovered later) was what we were walking in today. The Tramontana is extremely dangerous, occasionally blows from November through March, and if you're ever in this area and hear the word "Tramontana," don't do any mountain walks.
Continue reading "Walking From Portbou/Port Bou to Llanca, Spain" »
Actually, we didn't walk. I had surgery three weeks before this trip and faithfully promised my surgeon that I wouldn't overdo. After yesterday's 9-1/2 mile walk, it was the easier option (and smarter) to train it from Banyuls sur Mer to Portbou/Port Bou. A skimpy breakfast at hotel with only rolls, juice and coffee, left the bags to be transported and walked to the Banyuls sur Mer train station for a short ride to Portbou right over the France/Spain border. Cerbere is the last Cote Vermeille town before you cross the border into Spain and is supposed to be another extremely beautiful little village. Cap Cerbere has a solar lighthouse referred to as the lighthouse at the end of the world. In French, "Le Phare du Bout du Monde." According to Cerbere's Information office, there are four self-guided walking tours that leave from the center of the town. A person could just park themselves there and do some gentle walks in the area.
The Border police came on the train at Cerbere to check passports/identity papers, and one of the Police looked at ex-Marine's and immediately said, "Tom Jones!" This is not the first time that someone has remarked on his resemblance to either Tom Jones, Anthony Quinn, Tom Flores, ex-coach of the Oakland Raiders, and Smoky Robinson. Once in Portbou, you must show passports/identity papers once again to get from the platform into the station itself.
Continue reading "Walking From Banyuls, France to Portbou/Port Bou, Spain" »
Breakfast. Dropped our suitcases for transfer by La Pelerine to Banyuls sur Mer and were on the trails by 9:20 a.m. Another beautiful, sunny day...perfect for walking...past the acres and acres of vineyards. Bayuls sur Mer is the biggest wine village out of all the Vermilliion Coast wine destinations.
It was Sunday and families along the route were taking their own walks, picnicking, driving along the coast and suddenly one car pulled up alongside us. The family jumped out and began chattering away to us in French (of course). I limped into my halting, Je ne parle pas français (I don't speak French), one of the few sentences I am fluent in and Madame started saying over and over again, asperge, asperge. Completely bewildered. Was she saying, "asparagus"? (My "menu French" is excellent!) In the meantime, Monsieur leaped out of the car, slid down the embankment and started hacking off something green with a pen knife which he presented to us. Sure enough, it was wild asparagus that they were out hunting and really wanted us to take with for une omelette. Non, non...au revoir to this very sweet family, and we moseyed along.
Continue reading "Walking From Collioure to Banyuls sur Mer, France" »
In France there is no sky as blue as the one in Collioure...I just have to close the shutters of my room and I have all the colors of the Mediterranean before me. --- HENRI MATISSE
Collioure is 26 km/15 miles north of the Spanish border. This very picturesque village is nestled in a small Catalan harbor...View image... sheltered by a quiet bay where the Pyrenees chain meets the Mediterranean Sea. Up early, the sun was shining with not a cloud in the sky and we were completely refreshed after a great night's sleep. (Whatever you may think, there's nothing like a sleeping pill to help get over jet lag.) Unpacked, dressed and down for breakfast included in half pension (breakfast and dinner) throughout the entire Vermillion Coast walk. Yogurt, bread, croissants, coffee and juice gave energy to set out and see the town.
Outside, it was in the low 60's Fahrenheit (even in March) and priorities first, the Information "I" Office...View image, and an ATM for Euros.
Continue reading "A Wonderful Day in Gorgeous Collioure, France" »
Happiness is sitting at Dulles, Washington, DC airport and hearing, "Sheila Simkin, please come to the podium"...only to find out you have been upgraded to business class because coach was oversold.. Oh bliss and joy...
Even when things go perfectly, it's a very long night and day of travel. At Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, both suitcases plopped off the conveyer belt immediately, took the inter-terminal train between Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 where the TGV's and RER (to get into Paris) leave from and got in line to validate the France rail pass. (Download Sheila's Easy Guide: European Trains.) The train to Perpignan sped in to Terminal 2 TGV station at 9:30 a.m. and set off on the four-hour journey to Montpellier where we'd have to change trains. An hour wait and on to the next TGV to Perpignan. Seat reservations are compulsory on all TGV's and both trains were completely sold out.
Continue reading "The Journey to Collioure, France" »
Air? This was easy. All air fares were expensive so we just booked the non-stop Chicago-Paris flight on United with a slight deviation outwards. Chicago-Washington, DC-Paris because the DC flight arrives in Paris earlier than the non-stop and we hoped (note the word "hoped") to catch an early high-speed TGV (Train a Grande Vitesse) to Perpignan.
Train? Directly navigated to the Rail Europe site to see if it was more economical to buy a France Rail Pass or point-to-point tickets on arrival either through them or on arrival. (For complete details on trains download Sheila's Guide to European Train Travel.) I also checked the SNCF French Railways to see what the tickets cost in Euros. Conclusion - cheaper to buy the 3-day French Rail Pass. Done deal.
Continue reading "Planning France's Vermillion Coast and Spain's Costa Brava" »
There is a section of France and Spain along the Mediterranean called the Cote Vermeille with an average of 300 days of sunshine each year that becomes theCote Catalane in Spain as you travel south. Situated in the Roussillon county, this part of France is essentially Catalan and was once part of the Aragon kingdom. It is supposed to be breathtakingly beautiful. The Pyrenees slope into the Mediterranean, French and Spanish borders meet in a small area filled with lavender, vineyards, and fishing villages. Collioure, Banyuls and Cadaques are a few of the more famous towns but what interested me was an eight-day walking trail that is at its best during the winter months (it's way too hot in the summer, so think about it for this Fall).
Many different operators run versions of the Cote Vermeille, usually beginning and ending in Collioure but we looked, once again, to La Pelerine. La Pelerine organizes walking/hiking trips ranging from easy to strenuous through France and other countries and has arranged three trips for us. The Robert Louis Stevenson (Chemin Stevenson), Alsace and the first leg of Chemin St. Jacques (also known as the Way of St. James).
Continue reading "The Vermillion Coasts of France and Spain" »
A million lifetimes isn't enough to explore Europe on foot, bicycle or just sightsee. Each time we visit and choose a different country area to explore, it's love at first sight. In Europe, you can begin the day in one destination, hike/bike or walk around lakes, up and over mountains, visit charming towns on the way and return at night on the fast and efficient train and bus systems. Public transportation and chairlifts are bicycle/children/people friendly, there is always a refuge or mountain hut to stop for lunch and every region, without exception is gorgeous.
Here are seven of my favorite areas along with personal favorite towns. It will come as no surprise to anyone that Switzerland is #1 followed by Austria #2 because they are "no brainers" thanks to wonderful signage on almost all routes. France is a close #3:
Continue reading "Sheila's 7 Favorite Countries to Hike, Bike, Walk in Europe" »
After the fact, let's talk about the TGV seat reservation debacle first. The only reason I hadn't pre-ordered seat reservations was that I wasn't sure if we were going to spend time in Nimes or not. I know better and should follow my own advice which is: ALWAYS MAKE TGV RESERVATIONS FOR WEEKEND TRAVEL...holiday season or not.
Second. Don't underestimate the toll 12-16 miles is going to take on your body day after day no matter what kind of shape you're in. We've been hiking and trekking for so long that this is one of my fatal flaws. "Oh...we did this last year...no problem." Yes, it is a problem. One of these things is not like the other and there are no guarantees.... This was the first time that Steve had such terrible blister problems and the reason was, again in hindsight, his new boots were meant for a wider foot. Always impatient, he didn't want to try on different brands at REI and suffered for this big error. By the way, REI took the boots back without any problem, and spent lots of time making sure he bought the proper size boots this time. They are a great company.
 painting of Robert Louis Stevenson and Modestine
Continue reading "The Robert Louis Stevenson Trail ("Chemin Stevenson") in Hindsight, France" »
There's nothing like a miserable travel day to humble you when everything you worked so hard to plan goes completely ca-ca... And today was one of them. The day started when I misread the bus schedule showing two buses to Ales. One at 8:30 am, one at 9:00 am. Standing on the bus corner and waiting for the early bus that didn't materialize, I read a little further and realized that bus only operated on school days. Hello...it's summer vacation. No worries...we still had all day. One Euro each for the the 55-minute trip to Ales stopping at the train station. Once there, decided to get in line and pay for TGV seats to Paris instead of waiting until Nimes. After all, we did have an hour between trains...
Our turn with the SNCF (French Railway) person. There isn't ONE SEAT on any TGV heading to Paris Charles de Gaulle. There isn't ONE SEAT on any TGV going to Paris Gare de Lyon and there isn't ONE SEAT on any other TGV train from Avignon-Paris, Marseille-Paris, Aix en Provence-Paris, nothing if we change trains in Lyon...we are in deep dogey doo-doo! Why? This is the weekend that most of France starts traveling on their annual summer vacation! If we had First Class tickets, there were seats available but our passes are Second Class.
 someone "important" arriving at the Ales train station
Continue reading "A Completely Disastrous Travel Day in France" »
A major electrical storm during the night and it was still raining early this morning. Wavering back and forth, I decided not to fight ex-Marine on the subject. He had walked for days on those chewed up feet in agony and, hey...we're 68 and 67 years old respectively. Good enough and jumped in the taxi all the way to St. Jean du Gard. It's very depressing to have come so far and not walked the entire Chemin Stevenson but the will is getting weaker. A consolation was the constant rumble of thunder and rain for the entire morning.
The Chemin Stevenson route description for the last walking day is.... 9 km/5+ miles to the first real village, Saint Etienne Vallee Francaise and then the hamlet of the Martinet (really just a guesthouse). Up to Saint Pierre pass, from 255-596m/836-1,952', not exactly an impossible gain, and down through the woods. Lots more hamlets until you reach the old bridge of Saint Jean of Gard.
 Hotel Oronge courtyard
Continue reading "Stage 12: The RLS Trail Ends in Saint Jean du Gard, France" »
IF we had opted to do the 11th Stage, a brutal 28 kms/17 miles to Saint Germain de Calberte again with only one place to stay, the trail notes would have read like this:
"Leave Saint Julien d'Arpaon and follow the old railroad line along a gorge until you reach Cassagnas. Cassagnas is a typical old village and Stevenson had lunch here ...in the company of a gendarme and a merchant. . From here, the trail starts climbing and there is no habitation until Le Serre de la Can, situated a few kilometers before Saint Germain de Calberte. A forest track through the pines until Pierre Plantee pass (the highest point of the day). Bridges, forests and a junction signposted to Le Serre de la Can," yadda, yadda....
 part of the Relais organization on the Chemin Stevenson
Continue reading "Stage 11: Saint Julien d'Arpaon, France to Saint Germain de Calberte" »
Bow down to whomever scheduled this section. A very short 9 km/5 mile day to Saint Julien d'Arpaon. Can you believe it? The usual route is Florac to Cassagnas but all available hotels/gites, etc. were fully booked for this night. Unfortunately, this means that tomorrow's route will be a very long 28 kms/17 miles. Going to have to find some way to shorten this. We're both running on empty. Stevenson was suffering and running on empty before this stage and he was a lot younger than we are. I think that perhaps I am getting a little too old for this...
Before leaving, a visit to...yes...the Pharmacie for more tape, Second Skin and bandages. I always come equipped but we've probably gone through an entire box of bandages and spent 90 Euros on supplies for ex-Marine's feet. New bandages on his feet, we took our time leaving Florac since there was no hurry. Along the main N106, highway across town, into the Mimente Valley. Over the Tarnon River and an uphill.
 prickly dried chestnut
Continue reading "Stage 10: Florac to Saint Julien d'Arpaon, France" »
Florac (pop 1,995), at 546m/1,791', is a small town that appeared "big" to us after all the little villages and hamlets in this area. It is beautifully situated at the entrance to the Tarn gorges, edge of the Causse Mejean, the Cevennes and Mont Lozere. Florac is famous for its good food (a place right up our alley) and outdoor activities. There is a 17th century Chateau du Florac with two towers and an exhibition inside. We'd have no time to visit anything and had to get back on the trail tomorrow to St. Julien D'Arpaon.
Florac has an interesting event that takes place in the summer called 24 heures de Florac during which horseback riders complete a 160 km/99 mile circuit in this area. If you ride, look into it. Right at this point, all I was interested in was the Hotel du Gorges du Tarn had WI-FI that worked and dinner. So very hungry, we even resorted to sopping up gravy and food particles with bread. A fresh strawberry and raspberry parfait mixed with ricotta cheese won my "best dessert of the trip" award.
 a delicious dessert as a reward
Continue reading "In Pretty and Atmospheric Florac, France" »
There was a very long 26 km/16 mile day ahead of us, and we wanted to get an early start. Monsieur said that breakfast was at 7:30 am, however, he didn't show up until 7:45 am! On the trail later than we wanted, this is the only section of the Robert Louis Stevenson trail that RLS did not do. His original route led through the valley where a very busy highway now runs.
It was back through Le Pont de Montvert at 875m/2,870' across the little bridge crossing the Tarn and through the tall grey houses on an old path rising above the village. This draille (path) was once used by muleteers and it climbed steeply into the hills. Once on the Cham de L'Hermet plateau, a long traverse and then downhill through a forest. Next, all uphill for a total of four hours, fortunately through woods in the shade. There must have been billions of insects driving us nuts and trying to get at the pounds of salt encrusted on our faces, hats and clothing. Thought I was going to lose my mind swatting, trying to keep them out of my eyeballs and avoid hitting myself with walking sticks while swatting, cursing and walking.
 GR 70 map portion from Le Pont de Montvert to Florac
Continue reading "Stage 9: Le Pont de Montvert to Florac, France" »
Le Pont de Montvert was once one of the strongest Protestant areas and this is where the Camisard uprising started in 1702. The Camisards were French Protestants (Huguenots) who revolted after 20 years of persecutions. Conversions were enforced by Dragoons ( "missionaries in boots"), soldiers dragooned in the homes of Protestants. Protestants were arrested, deported to America, sentenced to the galleys, villages massacred and burnt to the ground. It's no wonder they finally revolted.
Hostilities began when the Abbot of Chail was assinated in Le Pont de Montvert. The Abbe quickly became the local martyr and informational signs were located on the bridge telling about him and the Camisard uprising along with photos showing that the view of his home hadn't changed very much in 306 years.
 photo of Abbe
Continue reading "Time To Sightsee in Le Pont de Montvert, France" »
Happiness of happiness, there was cereal and yogurt for breakfast along with extremely flaky croissants and wonderful, crusty French bread. Bags down and off by 8:45 am, ready for a big day up and across Mont Lozere nicknamed "Bald Mountain" because of its bare plateau. We thought we knew exactly what we were doing by following the usual written directions and red and white blazes. How wrong could two people be!
IF we had not gotten lost, the correct trail would have climbed to the Col Santel, and headed to the Mont Lozere chalet, a small ski resort. The trail then leads to the Col de Finiels, continues upwards to the summit of Finiels at 1,699m/5,574'. goes down through the village of Finiels, and finally descends into Le Pont de Montvert. But....
Continue reading "Stage 8: Le Bleymard to Le Pont de Montvert, France" »
The usual breakfast of bread, coffee and juice and we set off very early out of the very charming Chasserades trying to beat some of the heat. Downhill through the center of town with lots of dogs barking at us and up a gravel track. We followed the GR 70 waymarks alongside railroad tracks with the Mirandol viaduct and special tunnels that protect the rail line from snow in winter. This railway line was being surveyed when Stevenson visited the area.
Under the huge viaduct through the hamlet of Mirandol with a young boy fishing in the river to L'Estampe. ...View image... The path started climbing gently but became steeper as we ascended the Goulet massif and climbed up to the pass at 1413m/4,635'. Forests, woods, memorial stone to a forester, across roads and more directions, "...ignore minor tracks to left and right. At a major track Y-junction take the right-hand fork heading downhill..."
 little wooden house decorations
Continue reading "Stage 7: Chasserades to Le Bleymard, France" »
Today would have been a cakewalk if poor Steve's feet were in decent shape. Instead, we walked across the street to the Pharmacie after breakfast and did a job on Steve's feet with Second Skin, tape and Compeed. Back to Hotel La Grande Halte where woman in charge instructed us in half French/half English how to buy train tickets (billets) from the automatique ticket dispenser at the station. Left the bags for Transbaggage and walked over to the train station three blocks away from the hotel. Suddenly, a car zoomed up and the Hotel woman-in-charge got out of her car. She left the hotel and drove over to help us use the ticket machine and explain to the Station Master that we needed to get off at Chausserades, a request only stop. Can you believe it? So far above and beyond the call of duty.
One way tickets for 2.40 Euros, goodbye and profuse thanks to her and we waited. And waited. And waited. While sitting there, the three people from Lyon and Le Puy en Velay entered the station on their way home. They only walked a five-day portion of the route and will pick up where they left off another time. He went into the train station, spoke to the Station Master and came to tell us that a train sitting on Track 3 was our train. Either we look very helpless...or very stupid and I certainly hope it's the former!
 beautiful old house in the area
Continue reading "Stage 6: La Bastide Puy Laurent, France to Chasserades" »
Yesterday, breakfast was scheduled for 8:00 am. Taking our time and walking into the dining room at 7:40 am today, we found everyone was either done eating or finishing up. This is what happens when you don't understand French. Boo-hoo...ex-Marine's favorite cake was fini...gone...kaput. Feeling good after doing nothing yesterday, we left the village on a road and took a path through the woods for the first several hours. This made it a little cooler. The track had feeding troughs on both sides, pines, ferns and sections were logging roads with huge cut logs on the side.
The only animal/mineral/insect sighting was a slug. Big whoopee... There were footprints on the trail and even donkey hoof prints. We exited the forest and walked by Le Lac du Louradou, totally deserted and kept on going until we saw the Chateau de Luc in the distance with its massive white Madonna on top...View image.... This fortified castle overlooks the town of Luc and valley of the Allier River and had one of the many Robert Louis Stevenson signs giving information about the date and circumstances involved when he and Modestine stopped at this exact spot. The Madonna was dedicated less than two weeks after Stevenson's visit and weighed a "quintel" whatever that is. View image...
 Le Lac du Louradou
Continue reading "Stage 5: Cheylard L'Eveque, France to La Bastide Puy Laurent" »
Most church bells in this area are not enclosed in a tower. The reason? During bad weather, the church bells are rung to guide lost people to the safety of the village, and the bells ring louder if they aren't enclosed in a Belfrey. An interesting fact.
It was difficult to decide where on the trip to take a rest day. It was either too late in the Chemin Stevenson or too early. Cheylard L'Eveque seemed as good a place as any and it turned out to be perfect. There wouldn't be anything to do here, but I didn't care. Neither of us wanted to hike up the hills, explore or do anything but be two vegetables for one day. The Way of St. James just about destroyed my feet with the heavy mileage every day and I was determined to "rest."
Continue reading "Relaxing in Cheylard L'Eveque, France at La Refuge du Moure" »
Today's trail led through Langogne, the largest town in the area. Breakfast had the best bread and croissants to date. Croissants are made with lots of butter between layers and you know you've got a great croissant when it flakes all over the place. This one was the best! Masses of buttery flakes all over the table, floor and us. Dragged the suitcases down the two flights of stairs and I have an important TIP for you. Put the suitcase on it's side, hang on to the stair rail and slide it down, slowly, from step to step.
Major bandage job on poor ex-Marine's feet. The skin is completely worn off from the sole blisters and we're going to have to find a pharmacie somewhere along the way for Second Skin, Compeed and bandage replacement. It's 22.2km/13.8 miles from Pradelles to Cheylard L'Eveque. Miles of wooded valleys, pastures, farm tracks and cinder paths.
 wildflowers everywhere along the way
Continue reading "Stage 4: Pradelles, France to Cheylard L'Eveque and A Rest Day" »
Another skimpy breakfast and I am starving! Landos is 6.5km/4 miles from Le Bouchet and we decided to stop there and buy bread and ham to make sandwiches. Today was going to be another 21km/13 miles and I need food! A fairly easy trail to Landos and we got there in no time at all. Into the boulangerie for a breautiful, crusty loaf of bread sliced by Madame for us, and ready to shop for inards. Next door, four huge slices of ham and two cokes. Hot, sunny, hot, sunny, up, down, up, down through pastures.
With no shade anywhere, we plopped down on the gravel trail around noon under a few lonesome trees for shade. Made sandwiches, drank coke and walked another 1-1/2 hours (seemed like an eternity) into a valley, arriving in Pradelles around 2:00 pm. The Hotel de L'Arche was right on the main drag with doors open and absolutely no one in the hotel.
 Sheila snarfing down a sandwich for energy
Continue reading "Stage 3: Le Bouchet St. Nicholas to Pradelles, France" »
Stevenson purchased Modestine in Le Monastier sur Gazeille, and donkeys are still welcomed (and stabled) in six out of the seven lodging places here and along the trail. There is a commemoration stele that shows the official beginning of his route. Le Monastier is the official starting point and RLS began on a Sunday which today was. It is really necessary that you attempt to speak a little French and/or carry a phrase book unless you travel with a group. The hotel owner at Hotel Le Provence spoke very little English. There was no choice of entrees at dinner last night but everything was delicious. A baby shrimp salad for starters, duck leg, green lentils, and the yummiest zucchini-pasta casserole. A platter of cheese choices for dessert and we were two very happy hikers.
Breakfast was a little on the skimpy side by my hungry standards. Bread, juice, coffee and croissants...not nearly enough with another 23km/14.3 miles to go. Out on the trails by 9:00 am on what would turn out to be "same-o, same-o" every day...hot and sunny. Sunny is good if you want to sunbathe, the hot? Not...when you are walking/hiking.
 bright red poppies on the trail
Continue reading "Stage 2: RLS Trail Le Monastier sur Gazeille to Le Bouchet St. Nicholas, France" »
Left the tagged luggage at reception for La Pelerine's baggage handlers, Transbaggage and prepared ourselves. The beginning of this jaunt which I'll refer to as the RLS walk from now on, minus the donkey, would be a mere 12 miles, beginning with a one-block walk to the bright red GR 70 indicators on a lamppost. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I broke with tradition and actually left town without getting lost! A first for us. We used "The Robert Louis Stevenson Trail," a Cicerone Guide by Alan Castle along with the maps every day but trails constantly change due to erosion, weather or other problems. Don't consider the instructions fool-proof as we found out to our chagrin later in the journey.
By following all the directions, we got to the first stop on the route at exactly the average walker's time indicated in the directions. But then, everything became slow motion. It was very, very hot and there was very little shade along the way. Across pastures, fields of wildflowers, a little forest and ex-Marine started getting sick. This man loses a ton of water sweating and tends to become dehydrated. We rested for 30 minutes while he tried to decide if he was going to puke, pass out or get a fast case of diarrhea. When none of the above took place, we "Marine'd" on...
 an old cross to protect travellers on their journey
Continue reading "The First Stage of "Chemin Stevenson" to Le Monastier sur Gazeille, France" »
Bishop Gottschalk of Le Puy made the first recorded pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella where Saint James (beheaded in the Holy Land) rests. When he returned, he built a chapel on one of the amazing volcanic peaks in Le Puy en Velay. To this day, people setting off on this 1,500-1,600 km (approximately 932+ miles) pilgrimage, visit the Cathedral Notre-Dame to be blessed before they set out. The pilgrims gave the Le Puy an income (still do) and is also famous for its green lentils. We met two other Americans on the train journey yesterday meeting up with a British group (The Ramblers) setting off today on the St. James.
A leisurely breakfast and a sunny, clear day to walk around and revisit all the sights of Le Puy. A short walk from The Hotel Bristol to the old medieval section and up the steep, cobbled-stone street to the main door of the famous, restored Romanesque Cathedral Notre-Dame. If you are doing the St. James pilgrimage, show up for early mass at 7:00 am, and have your staff (or walking sticks) blessed. We didn't and perhaps that's why the weather was so rotten last year.
 taking the approach to Notre-Dame
Continue reading "Revisiting and What to See in Le Puy en Velay, France" »
It's so rare when something goes smoothly. Sitting on the United flight waiting to take-off for Washington, DC, there is a one hour hold. Why? Bad weather in Washington DC and the FAA has issued a ground stop on all arrivals and departures there. Once in Washington, DC, there is another 1-1/2 hour delay because this piece of equipment has to be serviced. There was no no way we could make the early 9:30 am TGV train direct from Charles de Gaulle Airport. B-I-G....sigh....
Off the plane finally in Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris, the baggage carousel signs flashing "retard." The airport is in the middle of a baggage handler's strike! What else is new... Surprisingly, the bags do come off in a reasonable amount of time and we took the inter-terminal train between Terminal 1 to Terminal 2. Terminal 2 is where the TGV's and RER (to get into Paris) leave from. European airports are making it easier and easier to get around. (Download Sheila's Easy Guide: European Trains. Got in line, validated our France train passes, purchased a TGV seat reservation, and waited for the next train to Lyon at 12:58 pm, a three-hour wait. B-I-G...snorts to go along with the sighs. From Lyon, a 45-minute wait for the train to St. Etienne and one last train to Le Puy en Velay with an estimated final arrival time of 6:37 pm!! Talk about long days...
Continue reading "Travel Hassles On The Way To Le Puy en Velay, France" »
Air? This easy. All air fares were expensive so we just booked the non-stop Chicago-Paris flight on United with a slight deviation outwards. Chicago-Washington, DC-Paris because the DC flight arrived in Paris earlier than the non-stop and we hoped (note the word "hoped") to catch an early train to Le Puy en Velay.
Train? Directly navigated to the Rail Europe site to see if it was more economical to buy a France Rail Pass or point-to-point tickets on arrival either through them or on arrival. (For complete details on trains download Sheila's Guide to European Train Travel.) I also checked the SNCF French Railways to see what the tickets would cost in Euros. The Euro is very strong against the dollar and it was more economical to buy the 3-day French Rail Pass. Done deal.
Continue reading "Planning the "Chemin Stevenson" Walk in France" »
It doesn't make any difference what you call this long-distance walk. The Robert Louis Stevenson Trail, The Chemin Stevenson, The Cevennes or the GR 70. It has become a travel classic because of Robert Louis Stevenson. The Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde fame. The Scottish writer left Monastier sur Gazeille, France on foot, September 22, 1878 with his donkey, Modestine, on a long distance walk from the Auvergne to the mountains of the Cevennes. It took 12 days, and 220 kms/136 miles to complete this epic trip. Stevenson later wrote a book about this journey called Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes and it became his first successful book.
Walking in the footsteps of R. L. Stevenson has become a very popular moderate-to-challenging walk in France with many options. You can:
- Walk a portion of the trail, or the entire length;
- Go alone or with a group;
 France area of the Robert L. Stevenson walk
Continue reading "Walking The "Chemin Stevenson" (Robert Louis Stevenson) Trail Through France" »
We had just a few hours the next day to finish up the important Strasbourg sights before training back to Zurich, overnighting by Kloten Airport and flying home to Chicago. We would have to move fast!
Never stepped foot in any of Strasbourg's museums: The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, The Palais Rohan (state apartments), Alsatian Museum, Zoological Museum, The Planetarium; and one that really would have been up our alley, Les Secrets du Chocolat Museum. This museum was devoted entirely to cocoa and its transformation into Chocolate. Don't know how we missed that one! There is the historic wine celler of Strasbourg Hospital, founded in 1395, with visits by prior reservations only. They even have a wine dating from 1472!
No time to visit any of the breweries. Heineken, Kronenbourg and Schutzenberger are all in the area and offer guided tours. Beer lover readers...don't miss one of these...
Continue reading "Finishing Up Strasbourg and Alsace, France" »
We finally made our way to the heart of Strasbourg and it's famous Cathedral. Over 466 feet high to the top of the spire, and completed in 1439. ...View image...The remainder of the cathedral was built between the 11-15th century and was the highest in Western Europe until the 19th century. You can't visit during Sunday services. Inside is an astronomical clock. For 1 Euro, you can watch the parade of the apostles before Christ every day at 12:30 pm. Buy a ticket at the door. You can also buy a ticket to take the long walk to the top platform, 332 steps up. The facade is magnificent with its lace-like work in stone. Of importance are the Wise and Foolish Virgins on the right portal. It was simple telling who the Foolish Virgin was but the others didn't look THAT wise.
The interior has an exceptional collection of stained glass windows with the oldest ones on the north side depicting princes and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire.
street leading to the Cathedrale of Strasbourg
Continue reading "The Strasbourg Cathedral and Other Sights in France" »
I chose the Hotel Pax strictly for its location, only a three-minute walk from the Strasbourg train station. It was a very unprepossessing hotel, old and nothing to write home about with the exceptiion of its very friendly staff and a great location. Too bad I didn't follow my own advice and check where our Hotel Pax room was located before evening. We fronted the street and the trams, bells clanging, didn't stop running until 12:30 am (according to ex-Marine). I stuffed ear plugs in my ears and we changed rooms the next day. The hotel was sold out and it was too late to change rooms before the noise-level dawned on me.
Strasbourg would be our last medieval city for many years to come and I was interested to see if it would measure up to my personal favorites up to now - Colmar and Riquewihr - both the ultimate in my book. Out to discover Strasbourg, the first thing I noticed was the city's excellent tram system with boards above each stop telling exactly how long until the next tram arrived. The two trams lines criss-cross the city and I just don't understand why our public transportation systems can't look like these.
sleek, Strasbourg tram
Continue reading "Visiting and Discovering Strasbourg, France" »
If you are a war buff and drive around Alsace, the 200 km/120 mile Maginot Line with its forts, blockhouses and shelters are not far away. The line was built in a number of phases from 1930 on. France believed that all these fortifications would provide time for their army to mobilize in the event of attack.
Northern Alsace also had many other attractions: troglodyte castles hewn directly out of rock, a feature peculiar to the region; a Romanesque Road passing through Altenstadt, Wissembourg and Surbourg; and the nature attractions that I was enjoying so tremendously. The Rhine, forests, a chance to stroll at your leisure and great panoramic views everywhere we went. Not finished with today's short hike, the walk continued on to the village of Schweigen (now in Germany) and Weintor, the beginning of the German wine road. Another adorable town with wine and tasting rooms (along with more tourists who had driven there) all around.
wooden wine presses and sculpture around Schweigen
Continue reading "A Little More Wissenbourg and On To Strasbourg, France" »
The excellent Office de Tourisme, Wissembourg (e-mail: tourisme.wissembourg@wanadoo.fr) had mailed me lots of information including options for day hiking around the area. We chose to do the Cross-border Vineyard Circuit today, about 8 kms/4+ miles with red ring markings the entire way. Wissembourg is almost exactly on the border of Germany and this walk would take us through a forest and vineyards to Schweigen, the beginning of the German Wine Road and then return to the center of Wissembourg on a different route. But first....breakfast!
After the skimpy breakfast from yesterday, we did some major chowing down. Entire baguettes, croissants, yoghurt, fruit, meusli, juice and coffee. It's sunny today but a little on the cold side which makes it perfect walking weather. On the return, we'll take more time to take the circuit touristique and photograph the important landmarks. Leaving Wissembourg, we walked by House of the Friend Fritz, an old tanner's house on Faubourg de Bitche - an area that was once a swamp...
House of the Friend Fritz
Continue reading "Exploring The Wissembourg Area, France" »
Another cloudy, cool day but we are done with the long walks and heading to Wissembourg by train. First breakfast. Only bread, juice and coffee at Hotel La Cloche, the first semi-skimpy breakfast of this trip. Time for a last walk around Obernai and then dragged the suitcases about six blocks to the train station.
Just getting to Wissembourg required one train from Obernai to Strasbourg and then another TER from Strasbourg to Wissembourg, an hour-plus trip because the train made at least nine stops on the way. A 10-minute walk from the Wissembourg train station to the Hostellerie du Cygne (Swan), an extremely beautiful hotel made up of two adjoining houses. One from the end of the 14th century and the other from 1535 when it was already an inn. A huge bedroom and bathroom...and I'll overlook the fact that I instantly bashed my head on a big door knocker level with my forehead entering the building and then had to schlep the suitcase up two floors of very narrow stairs. There are only a total of 16 guestrooms in the buildings and after unpacking, it started to rain in earnest.
inside the regional TER train
Continue reading "Wissembourg on the France-Germany Border" »
Obernai is located at the crossroads of the three large regions in Alsace: vineyards on the wine route; the Vosges; and the rural plain which starts from the town gates. Obernai is an important center of wine and beer production (my kind of place). The vineyards date back to 680 and Kronenbourg beer is the biggest brewer in France.
Our Hotel La Cloche is a 14th century house under historical protection. If we don't tightly close the curtains in our room, every tourist walking by can look directly into the bathroom and bedroom even though we are on the first floor...a low first floor. This would not be a pretty sight... Obernai is also known for food. From traditional restaurants to typically Alsatian "Winstubs" wine bars to one-star Michelin guide restaurants...lots of choices.
Hotel La Cloche quaint restaurant
Continue reading "Exploring Obernai, France" »
I am getting very spoiled from all these delicious buffet breakfasts. There are usually croissants, kugelhopf, baguettes or hard rolls, eggs, cold meats - salami, ham, etc., plates of cheeses, jelly, jam, butter (not margarine but real butter), fruit, yoghurt, coffee and more. It would be impossible not to have any energy after eating like this and how am I ever going to go back to my Total Cereal with skim milk!
On the road, up past the castle above Andlau (closed for repairs), and past Landeck, another castle with many tourists since it is Sunday and OPEN. A French group even asked US if we knew the way to another location and after chatting a bit, we discovered their daughter is coming to Chicago as an exchange student! All together now...what a small world... Everyone we've spoken with on the route has been very surprised to meet some Americans on the trail and wanted to stand around and schmooze. Today was no exception. Many mountain bikers on the same hiking paths as us and two of them would have stood for hours talking to us.
new way markings on the trail -- one the symbol of "Way of St. James"
Continue reading "Andlau to Mont Saint Odile to Ottrott to Obernai, France" »
Today was our 30th wedding anniversary and what better way to celebrate (I'm being facetious) than by hiking 19-20k/12 miles to Andlau (every kilometer/mile counts when you are on your feet all day). It's cloudy and in the low 70's, good hiking weather.
Out of Chatenois and along the road for a while and up to Chateau Ortenbourg in ruins. Then through Dambach that originally belonged to the Lords of Bernstein, a branch of the family of Eguisheim-Dabo, parents of Saint Odile and the Alsatian Pope Léon IX. The names Bernstein (Barenstein) and Dambach (Tannenbach) explain the coat of arms of this small city: a bear fond of honey who puts his two paws on a fir tree. The city is the home of more than 30 wine growers. Dambach also has preserved its medieval enclosures with moats, doors and impressive towers.
Chateau Ortenbourg sign
Continue reading "Chatenois to Andlau Via Dambach, France" »
Thankfully, no problems finding our way out of Hotel Touring in Thannenkirch since it was marked with GR5 signs all the way. Up through the forests heading in the direction of Chateau du Haut Koenigsbourg located in the Vosges mountains west of Selestat, on a high hill. This was a strategic location and used throughout the Middle Ages until the Thirty Years War. It was first mentioned in 1147 and was attacked and burned many times. It is a fairy tale castle, listed as a monument historique since 1862 and one of the most famous tourist attractions in this region.
German Emperor Wilhelm II started restoring the fortress at the beginning of the 20th century. ...View image... Inside is a museum of furniture and weapons from the Middle Ages and there were many tourists who had arrived by car to visit. If it had been a clear day, we would have been able to see (along with the Alsace plains) the Vosges, Black Forest and the Alps. Again, only on a clear day....you can see forever... Today was not one of those days. Haut-Koenigsbourg is open all year with the exception of holidays.
Chateau du Haut Koenigsbourg
Continue reading "Thannenkirch to Chateau du Haut Koenigsbourg to Chatenois, France" »
Tearing ourselves away from Ribeauville, it was time to find the GR5 (the main trail) out of town leading up to Chateau St. Ulrich. First we went one way through a forest...decided this was not right...circled back around a parking lot....this was right....and started up through many vineyards until the trail came to a dead end. Definitely not right. Back down through the vineyards to the extremely right-in-our-face-how-could-we-miss GR5 red and white blaze. We two dorks then headed up on the correct path to Chateau St. Ulrich.
The Chateau St. Ulrich is a 12th century castle, built by the Lords of Ribeauville. It still had a very impressive keep, large tower and seigniorial abode. There were quite a few tourists coming down who had probably visited Ribeauville for the day and took a hike up the mountain to see the three castles (or chateaus).
Chateau St. Ulrich
Continue reading "Finding The Way From Ribeauville to Thannenkirch, France" »
A great buffet breakfast at the Hotel Le Riquewihr, bags left at reception, admired the very old stove displayed in the lobby...View image... maps in hand, it was back through Riquewihr, out the Dolder Gate and on the road. Through the vineyards, we met two Chicagoans from the Lincoln Park area bicycling the wine route. They too had an organizer that took their bags from town to town and we're all having a great time on this very sunny day.
In one of the vineyards there were placards telling about the grapes, Riesling, grown in this particular vineyard. You could see the three ruined fortified Chateaus built by the Lords of Ribeaupierre in the distance, Ulrichsburg, Girsberg and Haut-Ribeaupierre, our destination later on.
Rosacker Winery
Continue reading "Leaving Riquewihr and Walking To (and Through) Ribeauville, France" »
There are so many other activities in the Alsace region. Canoeing, all terrain bike tours, quad biking in additional to the hundreds of kilometers of bicycle tracks. There is also an old train "touristique," The Ried Express...View image...that leaves from the restored train station (built in 1880) at Vogelsheim. This train goes to the San Souci pier where you board a boat for a 80-minute cruise on the Rhine with views of the Black Forest and 13th century Gothic Cathedral of Breisach. After that, the train takes you back to Vogelsheim.
There was still time for more walks through Riquewihr in the evening since the hotel didn't serve dinner. We walked back into Riquewihr and up and down the little side streets before eating. One street had a little family owned winery with their bottling operation set up right there on the street. One person putting bottles on the conveyor line, bottles filled with wine, corks pushed in, someone else taking the bottles off and sticking them in cases. ...View image...Interesting and hypnotizing.
Domaine Jules and Daniel Jung
Continue reading "Riquewihr to Thannenkirch via Ribeauville, France" »
Food is one of my favorite things -- eating and looking -- and Alsace had a cuisine specific to this region. A few of the typical Alsatian dishes were:
- Baeckeoffe: A casserole of potatoes garnished with a selection of meats marinated in white wine and cooked in a terraine (or casserole). The Baeckeoffe we tried was made with pork, lamb, potatoes and carrots. Tasted just like an ordinary beef stew to me.
- Choucroute (Sauerkraut): Sliced, fermented cabbage and potatoes served with a selection of smoked and salted meats (sausages). I love cabbage but have never really developed a taste for Sauerkraut.
- Kougelhopf: The name means "raised dough (with yeast) in the form of a ball..." Kougelhopf was omnipresent, large and small, everywhere we looked and ate. Some was delicious...some not. Kougelhopf was displayed and sold in almost every bakery and is another symbol of Alsace, food-wise. It's made of leavened dough and available in sweet and savory versions. Looks like a big hat!
Kougelhopf
Continue reading "The Food of Alsace, France" »
Filled to the brim and overflowing with tourists. Riquewihr was once called Winzerdorf (wine village) and served as a trading hub for Alsatian and German wine ( Riesling and other great wines produced here). It looks exactly as it did in the 16th Century. Riquewihr is a fabulous little medieval city situated between mountains and vineyards, but only 7 miles from Colmar and minutes from other famous Alsatian villages like Ribeauville, Hunawihr, Eguisheim and Kaysersberg.
Riquewihr is also classified among the "Most Beautiful Villages in France" because of the half-timbered houses dating back to the 15-18th centuries and the amazing Dolder Gate. ...View image...By now, ex-Marine and I were trying very hard not to become blase with dates of 1100, 1291, 13th century, etc. In Chicago, anything older than 100 years is destroyed and as a result, all these medieval villages were nothing short of miraculous to us.
Dolder Gate
Continue reading "Riquewihr, France is The Ultimate Medieval Village" »
Continuing from Kayserberg to Riquewihr was the most difficult section of the day. Up to the Chateau, very steep, and closed for repairs. Many more ups throught forests, dodging fallen trees and it was interesting how instead of removing some of these trees, they were just left there...sometimes with little ladders to climb up and over them. Not easy to squish under a huge tree, wearing a pack.
More ups through forests with chestnut trees, the hairy chestnuts all over the ground and on the trees. At first glance, they look like little sea urchins. I carefully picked one up because the spines on the nut casing are very sharp. There were also wild berry bushes everywhere. I think they were wild blackberries...because they weren't furry like raspberries...and these bushes were killers with sharp thorns. It was impossible to dodge all the thorns and both ex-Marine and I walked along, blood dripping down legs and arms. In the 20+ years we've been hiking around Europe, this was the first time we've ever seen such a plethora of wild berry bushes and chestnut trees.
furry green chestnuts still on the tree
Continue reading "Continuing The Walk From Kayserberg to Riquewihr, France" »
The day started cloudy and overcast with rain forecast but up to now, no rain. Back to Hotel Les Vosges for breakfast, brought the suitcases down for transport to Riquewihr, and out the front door of Hotel des Deux Clefs early. Left Turckheim through the Brand Gate per instructions, and up the hill through the many, many vineyards to Niedermorschwihf. (We never even attempted to pronounce most of these towns...impossible for us.) From there to Ammerschwihr, a picturesque village dating from the 16th century but badly damaged towards the end of World War II between 1944-45. Onwards and upwards until Kayserburg, putting on rain jackets...taking off rain jackets...each time the drizzle became hard enough. Took off the backpacks, pulled the jackets from the large trash bags inside the pack (keeps everything dry), and put them on, threw the backpacks on..and....the drizzle stopped again...drove us nuts.
The vineyards were a vivid green, completely symetrical with the rows of grapes climbing every hill and dominating the landscape. Walking through the little villages, there would be signs and/or displays on most houses advertising a regional wine for sale. From this point forward, we'll show a little more respect when drinking wine now that we recognize how extremely labor-intensive the wine growing business is.
walking through the vineyards with Turckheim in the distance
Continue reading "Walking From Turckheim to Kayserberg, France" »
The very ancient Hotel des Deux Clefs was directly opposite the church and the church bells drove me crazy all night, ringing on the quarter hour without fail. No looking at a clock necessary. I just had to count the gongs. Tonight will definitely be an ear plug night...that's for sure!
If you base yourself in Colmar, you have two possibilities of visiting cute medieval villages. Turckheim is 5k/3.1 miles from Colmar. You could bike, walk, drive or take the 12-minute train ride. Another great place would be Eguisheim, 5k/3.1 miles southwest of Colmar. Eguisheim is considered to be the birthplace of wine growing in Alsace. The Romans planted the first vines in the 4th century. Eguisheim was built in concentric rows and, in the center was an 18th century Chateau where Pope St. Leo IX was born. The streets along the former moat have a picturesque promenade and views of the ramparts. We didn't visit since our time in Alsace would take us through many more of these villages.
Eguisheim map
Continue reading "A Day Hike Around Turckheim, France" »
A big breakfast, schlep with suitcases to the train station and a 12-minute train ride to Turckheim. Our hotel for the first two nights was supposed to be Hotel Les Vosges**. Greeted at the Hotel and told that our accommodations had been moved to the Hotel des Deux Clefs*** two blocks away from Hotel Les Vosges but all meals would still be a the Hotel Les Vosges. Don't know why they moved us but we're not complaining. The Hotel des Deux Clefs (The Two Keys) is an ancient hotel, first mentioned in 1583 but the building itself dates from 1540 and is considered a Maison Historique (historical house). The former name was "The Black Eagle."
Turckheim (pop: 3,594) is best known for its surrounding medieval wall, the only one in Alsace. The wall has three doors: The Munster Door; The Door of the Brand (the Route des Vins starts here); and the Door of France. The Munster Door (or gate) was called the "gate of sighs." People sentenced to death passed this gate to be executed and 26 witches were burned between 1572 and 1626. Ah...the good old days...
Munster Door/Gate, Turckheim
Continue reading "Turckheim, France Sightseeing" »
In the heart of wine country, it was time to learn a little about the wines of Alsace. (We just like to drink it and knew next to nothing about it.) They have been growing wine in this region before the Middle Ages and reached its zenith in the 16th century. The Alsace wine route spreads along the plains and up the foothills for over 170 kms/50+ miles with over 26 trails that can be driven, bicycled or walked through the vineyards and villages.
You can also visit the many inns, and wine cellars with tasting rooms. Usually, the producer himself is proud to have you taste his wines. They could be independent growers, producer-merchants or grower-members of cooperatives. Visit the website of Alsace Wine wine site for more details. Colmar happens to be the geographic center of the wine region and the capital of Alsace wines. The Maison des Vins d'Alsace had a wine school and infinite information about Alsace wines.
one variety of grapes
Continue reading "The Wines of Alsace, France" »
It is sunny and hot. A big buffet breakfast to stoke ourselves up for lots of walking. The Hotel Turenne is full every night during the season (right now) and the dining room was filled with bikers, tourists and walkers. Colmar's big appeal is the typically and whimsically Alsatian houses. Crooked, half-timbered, painted, leaning to one side - all extremely pretty and very touristy. (I'm a tourist and proud of it...) The modern city is outside this area on both sides of the train tracks. Most of the town center is pedestrian only but you still had to dodge an occasional car barreling through. FYI: One of Colmar's most famous natives is Auguste Bartholdi (1834-1904) whose work included our Statue of Liberty.
A visit to the train station to buy tickets for Turckheim tomorrow. Only 2.40 Euros for two tickets (it's only 3 miles away) and lots of time to read the plaques at every important monument in three languages telling about their history on the way back. The Maison des Tetes is one of the most beautiful houses in Colmar. ...View image...
Maison de Tetes
Continue reading "Another Day Visiting Charming Colmar, France" »
The United flight to Frankfurt was packed with no upgrades available (United changed equipment to a smaller plane) and our well-thought out "good" seats in economy with a litle more leg room in the Premier section were not to be. After reclining my seat a meager 3", the man behind me jammed my seat back in an upright position. I reclined....he jammed... When a flight attendant came by, I explained the situation and she handled it beautifully, explaining I had a right to recline, it didn't make any difference if he had too little leg room, yadda yadda. There happened to be one other empty seat in the bulkhead and that's where he decided to sit for the rest of the trip. All I could think of was ..."Who needs this? Another trip from hell?"... Oh well...
An early arrival in Frankfurt, transferred to the Lufthansa flight to Zurich and we were almost there. In Zurich's super-modern terminal, we bought tickets to Colmar and set off on our train journey. One hour from Zurich to Basle on the border with France. You get off the Swiss train, walk through the custom's area door marked "France" (with no one there) and now you are on French soil. Onto a regional French SCNF train (known as TER's) and a mere 30 minutes later, Colmar.
Colmar map
Continue reading "On The Way To Colmar, France" »
Air? This was semi-easy. The least expensive air fare at this time was to fly Chicago-Frankfurt on United, change to a Lufthansa flight from Frankfurt-Zurich, and return on a non-stop United flight from Zurich-Washington, DC and connect on to Chicago, our final destination.
Train? Visited the Swiss National Rail (SBB) site. From there to Rail Europe site to see if it was more economical to buy some sort of two-country Rail Pass or just buy point-to-point tickets on arrival. (For complete details on trains read Sheila's Guide to European Train Travel.) This time it was more economical to buy point-to-point tickets.
Alsace hiking area for this trip
Continue reading "Planning The Alsace, France Trip" »
The Alsace region is located in the extreme Northeast corner of France, bordering Germany and Switzerland. Also an area of major combat during World War I and II, Alsace is known for its famous wines and medieval villages, but you may not know that there are easy inn-to-inn (or village-to-village) walking, bicycling and driving tours along this route.
The walk/trek is commonly known by several names: "Castles & Medieval Villages of Alsace" - "The Balcony of Medieval Alsace" - and "Walks Along The Wine Route." Distances between the ancient towns on the famous Alsace wine route are short, and the altitudes (between 430m-645m/1400-2,000' ) not very high. You can make your own arrangements and backpack through this area, or do what we did. Arrange for a tour organizer to handle everything. Many choices of tour operators: Mountain Travel Sobek, Explore U.K., Sherpa Biking/Walking Holidays, and La Pelerine. After reading all the literature, it was a tough choice but I prefered the less expensive price and towns included in La Pelerine's 7 day-6 night package with 6 days of walking.
France regional map
Continue reading "The Alsace Region of France - Castles and Medieval Villages" »
There was still time to re-walk the little Conques streets and enjoy. The first 123 miles of the Way of St. James was over. Just think...the total section from Le Puy to the Pyrenees was 740 kms/459 miles, only another 336 miles to go. And then, the almost equal amount of miles from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostella. Very happy that I didn't have to set out the next morning with all the other pilgrims. Very sad that I wasn't setting out with the rest of the pilgrims. We both felt as if we'd dropped out of a Marathon while everyone else was on their way to the finish line.
Every time I saw the little GR 65 signs directing the pilgrims out of Conques, I heaved a deep sigh of regret that we weren't continuing on next long section to the French Pyrenees...Figeac...Moissac...through Cahors...with St. Jean Pied de Port (Saint John at the Foot of the Pass - a small border town) the final destination on that leg. We'd need three more weeks minimum to accomplish that.
one last GR 65 sign pointing the way out of Conques
Continue reading "The Way of St. James, France: A Little Hindsight Information" »
Reinvigorated after that wonderful lunch, it was into the **Auberge St. Jacques (Logis de France), right in the center of town. So lucky about that...so unlucky that we are not only on the 3rd floor again, but after schlepping the bags to the 3rd floor, there were four steps down inside our room. I'm not complaining...this is the last schlep. Conques has a 4***, two 3***, and several 2** hotels, a total of 16 which is quite a bit considering this is a town with a population of only 302!
The major focus in Conques is the former Abbey-Church of Ste. Foy (St. Faith). Conques became a pilgrimage destination in the 9th century when it acquired the relics of a 4th century child martyr, Ste. Foy (St. Faith). Like any business, Conques needed a special attraction (or draw) to get pilgrims visiting (along with their money). Enter...a monk in 866...who managed to obtain these relics by "furtive translation,"...in otherwords, he stole them...and then staged a convenient set of miracles! That did the trick...PILGRIMS...and it didn't take too long before Conques was an important staging post on the pilgrim route. (The little bits of information that none of us ever learned in History classes.)
Sheila and Church of Ste. Foy
Continue reading "Day 10: Enjoying Fabulous Conques, France" »
The Hotel de la Vallee in Espeyrac was in the center of the village on the River Daze. A very unprepossessing hotel but it was the only "hotel" in town, and at least our room had a bathroom. Only two floors to climb here. My upward method? Turn backwards, and use the handle to pull my suitcase, one step at a time. Once in the room, I literally threw myself on a bed, moaned, whimpered, and waited for the agonizing foot pains to subside a little. The 10 days on this route will add up to approximately 123 miles or an average of 12 miles a day. It's no wonder my bony feet are begging for a rest. Not only will it take a while for these feet to recover, but what about our stomachs that are probably destroyed with all the over-the-counter drugs. Hindsight? Should have taken a rest day somewhere along the route.
I think that seeing all these 9th century, 11th century, 15th century churches, houses, etc. has caused us to lose sight of the fact that we are actually on a long-distance footpath that pilgrims have walked on for over 1,000 years. Many parts of the path have been paved over but everyone basically passes through the same villages, climbs the same hills and crosses the same rivers. Also, we are part of the only several thousand people who walk the Way of St. James every year. How often does that happen. So...Sheila...stop complaining!
old chateau along the trail
Continue reading "Days 9 & 10: Dinner in Espeyrac and Espeyrac to Conques, France" »
Throughout the entire trip, the terrain hasn't been difficult. Even though distances are long, and walking is never less than 5 hours, it's the mud and rain that's done us in. At least today, the weather cooperated and we were able to spend time in the Church of St. Pierre-de-Bessuejouls as well as make other photo stops.
A few more discoveries as we went along:
- Most hotels ask you to take your boots off and leave them in a closet or boiler room so as not to dirty up their hotels.
- Again, always pack everything in huge, heavy-duty trash bags to keep things dry. Never more important as this trip has shown us.
Still in incredible Estaing, it's dinner time! The chef (co-owner of Aux Armes d'Estaing) was recommended in my Green Michelin guide and I'm really looking forward to dinner. Aux Armes d'Estaing has an extremely attractive dining room with a gigantic fireplace...
Aux Armes d'Estaing dining room
Continue reading "Days 8 & 9: In Estaing and From Estaing to Espeyrac, France" »
There were still miles to go before Estaing Our boots will never be the same again from all the mud but the sun was shining and that made us happy. The terrain changed and became more scenic. Rolling hills...vivid green moss on the rocks....View image..forests...View image...nothing too difficult...except for the pains in my feet. By now, I'd start off each day taking teeny-tiny steps and leaning heavily on walking sticks until those painful achilles loosened up. If it wasn't for all the Aleve, Motrin, Advil and Tylenol (kept switching on-and-off trying to find the best pain-killer), we truthfully couldn't have made it.
Down one hill, past the Chateau de Beauregard, and then a well-preserved village, Verrieres. Verrieres was so extremely charming with its ancient stonework that I starting shooting photos like a maniac. A few ridges, plateaus...
Chateau de Beauregard
Continue reading "Day 8: Heading Towards Estaing, France" »
This was going to be a big day. Not mileage-wise but the walk would lead through quite a few interesting areas on the way to Estaing. Dragged the suitcases down three flights of stairs... I wish someone would please explain why we are always on the 3rd floor. Going down is a million times easier than going up and I have it down to a science. Turn your suitcase on it's side...hang on to the railing for dear life...and slide it down each flight.
Reading the topographic map and trip notes, I noticed a choice on today's route. Through a muddy forest or bypassing that section by sticking to a lower road. Easy decision. Definitely enough mud yesterday, we'd stick to the road. Across the river with one backward glance at St. Come d'Olt and my tired feet took their first steps on another 17 kms/10.5 miles to Estaing. It was a shame we couldn't have spent a little more time exploring this medieval town with very few modern buildings. "Olt" is the old name for the river Lot. The 16th-century church of Stes. Come and Damien had a twisted spire, unusual and difficult to photograph, said to resemble the shape of a flaming torch. St. Come d'Olt also had historical information on street plaques and a walking tour available from the Tourist Office, but, no time...
St. Come d'Olt
Continue reading "Day 8: St. Come d'Olt to Estaing via Espalion, France" »
Another day filled with very disgusting weather. Another day in rain gear as well every other pilgrim while the taxi drivers rejoice. Leaving St. Chely D'Aubrac with only a fast stop for photos of an Aubrac wooden cow and the village. There's just been too much rain to even explore these towns thoroughly....not that there is much to see...
Through forests, chestnut woods with too much mud to even mention...slipping and sliding our way towards St. Come D'Olt, another 16 kms/9.9 miles. To be more exact, it absolutely poured all day and eventually I could hear my feet squishing inside the boots and both achilles sending painful signals up legs from all that lateral foot movement in mud.
homage to the prized Aubrac cow
Continue reading "Day 7: St. Chely D'Aubrac to St. Come d'Olt, France" »
It is definitely raining again and Nasbinals to St. Chely D'Aubrac is 17 kms/10.5 miles from here. Before even starting out today we noticed the baggage transfer company loading up people to ride along with the bags. The local taxi drivers were probably doing a "happy dance" this morning. Big money transferring walkers in bad weather. Unfortunately, we are too obsessive-compulsive to quit anything unless the situation is critical. You can either look on this as a "good thing" or "bad thing" depending on your make-up.
Rain gear on, quick walk through Nasbinals, out the other end and across pastures for two hours, passing many walkers going to Aubrac. Aubrac is the location of the annual "Fete de Transhumance" (the reason my original choice of dates wouldn't fly), held May 27-28 every year. At that time, the Aubrac cattle are collected from the Lot Valley, garlanded and moved up to the mountain meadows. Aubrac is also a popular stop on the route depending on how many kilometers/miles you want to accomplish each day. We talked with one woman walking over 20 MILES A DAY!
leaving Nasbinals 10 minutes before the deluge started and two minutes before we wisely decided to put all the rain gear on
Continue reading "Day 6: Nasbinals to St. Chely D'Aubrac, France" »
Another nice day. Little on the cool side but we are daring the elements and wearing shorts. Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals will be 26 kms/16.1 miles. According to average walking times, this should take a little over seven hours (only a little over seven hours?...be still my heart...) Hotel Pruniers has won the best croissant of the trip award, making up for last night's dinner. Extremely flaky and buttery with little bits falling all over the place. The flakiness is what separates an excellent croissant from a mediocre croissant. Orange juice, bread and coffee and we're off on the road again.
Today's route would primarily cross the mountains of Aubrac...rolling hills according to the dossier. The original Saint James path would have followed the ancient Agripan Roman road which is now the D987 highway. Across many different farms, over stiles and through turnstiles. Explanation, if you've never seen a pasture stile or turnstile. A "stile" is either steps or rungs to climb over a pasture fence, and a "turnstile" is exactly what it says. Instead of climbing over, you spun through an opening.
In additional to the stiles and turnstiles, we were always opening and closing barbed wire gates after passing though so the cattle didn't get out. There were wildflowers in profusion and always the white and red markings of the GR 65.
Finieyrols
Continue reading "Day 5: Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals, France" »
Another very cold day, approximately 5 C/40F, but the sun was shining. Rather than take a chance (no TV around with my favorite, The Weather Channel on), we're dressed in rain gear but with a pair of shorts under the rain pants...just in case. Breakfast was a lot more basic than Hotel La Terrasse...toasted bread, juice, coffee and cheese. ex-Marine and I are already totally exhausted and today's walk is 20 kms/12.4 miles to Aumont-Aubrac. There is a psychiatric hospital along the route today and perhaps someone should just commit me. What was I thinking signing us up for so many long walking days in a row without rest! Delusional?
A very strong wind but we're dressed for it even if the boots and gloves are still wet from yesterday. (They'll dry quickly once we start moving.) Lightweight fleece tops have already become our new favorite pieces of clothing. They wick sweat to the outside, aren't clammy against the rain jacket, and dry quickly. From now on, these Columbia tops are going everywhere with us.
ready to leave Hotel L'Oustal de Parent
Continue reading "Day 4: Les Faux to Aumont-Aubrac, France" »
An interesting, true story about Sauges called "La Bete de Gevaudin," took place during the 1700's. The "Beast of Gevaudin" preyed on sheep, children and young women. Bodies were found drained of blood and partially eaten. Then went on for over three years until a 130 pound wolf was finally shot. The villagers thought that solved the problem but then two more boys were found dead. It wasn't until a second wolf was shot that the attacks stopped.
Last night, the very nice owner of Hotel La Terrasse, Denis Fargier, related a little about his family history. Denis was wearing a Jewish Star of David and when we asked if he was Jewish (unusual in the predominantly Catholic area), he replied no. His grandmother saved two little Jewish boys during World War II by taking them in, putting crucifixes on their necks and telling the Nazi authorities they were Catholic. She raised these boys along with Denis' mother. After the war, his mother, who considered the boys her brothers, insisted that he wear a Jewish star to always remember her brothers. Denis' family lost contact with the boys after the War and never did see them again.
Continue reading "Day 3: Sauges to Les Faux, Vicinity of St. Alban sur Limagnole, France" »
It was an extremely gray, cloudy and windy day. There were four women from Sydney, Australia, few Swiss from Zurich, French, German, Belgium along with us staying at La Vielle Auberge, all commiserating. Everyone is starting to cohese which is good since we'll probably keep running into each other at various stages of the walk. Some people have already walked for a week or so, the Belgium man is doing the entire route, and the four Aussies are going to Conques, their final destination, but with a rest day built in.
Most other people go shopping before the walk to buy bread, lunch meats, cheese and other items for lunch. Not us. ex-Marine and I have always subscribed to the "Bataan Death March" style of hiking. Go out...do it...finish...and then eat. Out of La Vieille Auberge and right up a hill to Rochegude, an old frontier stronghold with another St. Jacques Chapel. ex-Marine and I are also starting to recognize other faces that didn't stay at our hotel last night.
St. Privat boulangerie (bakery)
Continue reading "Day 2: St. Privat D'Allier to Sauges, France" »
It was time to begin. Suitcases downstairs at Hotel Bristol for the transport company to haul off to St. Privat by 8:00 a.m. And you just had better have those suitcases down by the time you are told. Eating breakfast, we saw the transport van arrive at 8:00 a.m. sharp, throw the bags into the van, and depart in minutes. Rain pants, rain jacket, warm polypropelene fluff, light gloves stowed in a HEAVY-DUTY PLASTIC GARBAGE BAG inside the backpack. If it rains, you'll be very happy that everything is nice and dry. If you sweat profusely, you'll be very happy that everything is nice and dry. ex-Marine also keeps his wallet inside another zip-lock small plastic Baggie. One experience, sweating out everything in his wallet, was enough. Euros drying all over the room.
Scallop shells on our backpacks, suitcases picked up, map with instructions in a clear plastic hung around my neck, including the all-important name of the hotel in St. Privat D'Allier, we left the Hotel Bristol for Place du Plot, the official starting point. Many pilgrims visit the Notre-Dame Cathedral for 7:00 a.m. mass before starting this long journey to receive a special blessing. I considered ourselves "blessed" from yesterday's visit and left town for today's 22 km/13.6 mile walk.
Pilgrim information at Notre-Dame Cathedral
Continue reading "Day 1: The Pilgrimage Road From Le Puy en Velay to St. Privat D'Allier, France" »
Because this particular area of France is not easy to get around by public transportation, we arrived in Le Puy a day before the start of Way of St. James to explore. The early Pilgrims began in Le Puy en Velay, the traditional starting point, on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. There are four major routes to Santiago de Compostella but the the first recorded pilgrimage started in Le Puy.
Bishop Gottschalk of Le Puy was the one who made the first recorded pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in 951 AD where the remains of St. James (beheaded in the Holy Land) rest. When he returned, he built a chapel on one of the amazing volcanic peaks in town. To this day, people setting off on this 1,500-1,600 km (approximately 932+ miles) pilgrimage, visit the cathedral Notre-Dame to be blessed before they set out. The pilgrims gave the Le Puy an income (still are) and is also famous for its green lentils.
Way of St. James route map
Continue reading "A Day Exploring Le Puy en Velay, France" »
After an awful night of not sleeping because of the road noise outside the room, we packed up ready to move on to Le Puy en Velay late in the afternoon. TIP: If you ever stay at La Hostellerie de Europe with its very helpful staff, ask for a room facing the back, not the street. It seemed that the main automobile route through town passed right in front of the hotel. A tremendous amount of trucks and other traffic throughout the entire night. Extremely noisy.
In the Tourist Office yesterday, we bought a walking map detailing different Figeac historical points of interest, each point marked by a key symbol. One site, the Maison Medievale was a perfect example of stonework with ornate stone windows and gothic-style carvings. It wasn't until the 14th century that people with money stopped building houses in a mixture of timber frame and stone and upgraded to sandstone instead.
Maison Medievale with ornate stone windows
Continue reading "Traveling From Figeac to Le Puy en Velay, France" »
The Figeac Tourism Internet site is unfortunately all in French. Could pick out a few words here and there but got the gist of what they were saying. Then I discovered "France for Visitors which gave a lot more information. Rocamadour was only 20 miles away and that is what I wanted to see and the main reason for visiting Figeac. (Rocamadour is another site in French only.) Rocamadour is the second most-visited site in France after Mont St. Michael and still a holy place for many pilgrims on the Way of St. James. Some pilgrims even climb up the stone staircase's 216 steps leading to the sanctuaries...ON THEIR KNEES! A very famous medieval village.
On the train from Albi to Figeac, it was upwards of 90 degrees, the supposedly air-conditioned train's air conditioning wasn't working and the windows didn't open. The conductor came through the car and made an announcement in French (didn't understand a word). ex-Marine and I stick out like sore thumbs in these regions and a woman instantly asked if she could translate for us (without even asking). The problems were just in this car and everyone was welcome to move elsewhere on the train. Didn't have to ask us twice...
Figeac map
Continue reading "Figeac, France, A Village of Art and History" »
Albi's Sainte-Cecile Cathedral was built from the 13th to 15th century in the old town. It is a fortress cathedral, part of the city walls, and gigantic. Sainte-Cecile was built as a testimony to the Christian faith after the crusade against the Cathars and Albi cathedral has important relics from this Roman Saint dating back to the 5th century. The Cathars, messengers of a new faith in the 12th century, and considered heretics, were massacred and burnt at the stake during this time in the whole Southwest of France.
To call this fortress cathedral, part of the city walls, imposing would be a vast understatement. The exterior was stark Gothic architecture done in that rosy colored brick. There was the porch Dominique-de-Florence from 1392...View image...bell-tower (1492), baldachin and rood screen inside (circa 1515-1540). Now, you don't think I actually knew what any or these terms were, do you? I had to do a little investigation and this is the result:
view of Albi and Berbie Palace seen from the left bank
Continue reading "Albi's Sainte-Cecile Cathedral and More Sightseeing, France" »
Albi is considered one of the most beautiful cities in France and it is. Not just beautiful but...completely and unbelievably beautiful. It was easy to get to Albi by train from Toulouse, one hour on the fast train...an additional 15 minutes on the slow train that makes every stop. The awesome fortress-like Cathedrale Sainte-Cecile, a masterpiece of Southern Gothic style, could even be seen from the train pulling into the Albi station. It looms over little Albi and can be seen from anywhere.
I had found and booked our Albi hotel through Albi Tourist Office, the Hotel St. Clair. Sometimes, the hotel choice you make turns out to be perfect and this choice was perfect. Hotel St. Clair was one block from the Cathedral, and Toulouse-Lautrec Museum, a sunny, charming room with a little balcony outside it, and extremely friendly people. Our Albi stay was only for two nights but we were thrilled each time we returned to our perfect little room.
view of Albi Cathedral from a bridge
Continue reading "In Gorgeous Albi, France" »
The most famous church in Toulouse is the Basilique St. Sernin, a Romanesque pilgrimage church, with a large collection of "holy relics." A "holy relic" cam be anything from a finger, piece of skin, tooth, any remains of a Saint. This Basilica was built above the sepulcher of Saturnin, the first bishop and martyr of Toulouse. He was martyred in the year 250 by being tied to the legs of a bull he had refused to sacrifice to pagan gods, which dragged him down a flight of stone steps. (There always seemed to always be creative ways to martyr a person.) The Rue de Taur and Church of Notre Dame du Taur commemorate the bloody route.
I didn't realize until we toured this Basilica that the Way of Saint James led from four different areas. One began in Paris, another in Vezelay, the third in Le Puy en Velay (where we were going to begin), and the southernmost route led from Arles (in Provence) through Toulouse. All of these various routes are dotted with sites sanctified by relics of supernatural events, and the Pilgrimage Paths have been inscribed by UNESCO as of important historical significance.
Basilica St. Serin
Continue reading "More Toulouse, France Sightseeing" »
A very long day. Eight hours on the airplane, followed by a four-hour wait until the TGV left for Toulouse, and then a six-hour train ride. Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport has redone part of Terminal 1 and now you can take a train between terminals as well as the Navettes (buses) always used in the past. Terminal 2 is where the TGV's and RER (to get into Paris) leave from. European airports are making it easier and easier to get around. (Watch for Sheila's Easy Guide: European Trains)
The best part of the TGV six-hour train ride? Toulouse was the final destination. No worries about falling asleep and missing a connection to another train, and...sleep we did...nodded off immediately and slept on and off for the entire trip...waking only to eat the sandwiches bought in the TGV Airport Terminal...Looking out the windows when the train zoomed past a particularly interesting town perched up in the hills, and through the Bordeaux area with vineyards in all directions...
town in the Bordeaux area
Continue reading "Paris to Toulouse By Train - France" »
Since Sherpa had turned my tentative plans upside down, this created a whole new set of problems. The area I wanted to tour after the walk would have been easier to reach by public transportation but, having no other options, I started yahoo-ing and google-ing away. How to rearrange?
Air? That was the easy part. Fly non-stop from Chicago to Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport. Bought two tickets at a reasonable price on United's "Spring Over the Pond" sale.
Train? Visited the SNCF, French National Railways website. From there to Rail Europe site and ordered a France railpass that included three (3) days of unlimited rail travel anywhere in France. Also took the option to purchase one extra day at $24 a person. This gave us four (4) days of unlimited rail travel. One day would be used training from Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) to our first destination; one day to return from our last destination back to Charles de Gaulle Airport, and two days for miscellaneous travel within cities.
France regional map
Continue reading "Planning The Way of St. James in France" »
One of the most enjoyable ways to see a country is on foot. Walking through small villages, attempting some fractured French (or other language), looking in the little shops and stopping whenever you want to explore really adds to the experience. I have been eyeing "The Way of St. James" (also referred to as the Chemin de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle) pilgrimage long-distance walk for years. The main walk begins in Le Puy en Velay, France and ends in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. The typical first half of this pilgrimage from Le Puy to the French Pyrenees is 740 kms or 460 miles. The second section from the foothills of the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela (Finisterre) is an additional 778 kms or 483 miles. A long way to go.
James was one of Christ's disciples and after his beheading by Herod in the Holy Land, followers took his body back to Spain and supposedly buried him not far from what is now Santiago de Compostela. In the 9th century, a hermit had a vision showing where St. James was buried and King Alfonso II declared St. James the Patron Saint of Spain. They built a small church and monastery over the tomb, now the present day Cathedral of Santiago, with St. James remains still there, attracting pilgrims.
France map with main cities
Continue reading "Walking "The Way of St. James" in France" »
The trip was over. We watched movies all the way home on United and Josh actually slept a little. Then it took ages to gather up his PSP, power adaptors, gum, magazines, and all the other necessities he couldn't travel without.
Josh was excited to see his family, tell about Paris, and hand out PRESENTS.
We saw, and did, more each day than was humanly possible, but those little legs of his, bounding up and down the stairs, and that mind that never stopped working, made it a fabulous trip.
This was something we will never forget and I know, neither will he. As Josh said, "This is Paris and I have to see everything but who knows when I'll see this again." How very true.
Continue reading "Grandchild - End of Trip to Paris" »
Another warm day...and, of course, I only brought jeans which are darn hot for walking around. Today, Josh wanted to see the Pompidou Museum of Modern Art. It was about a mile walk from our hotel...relatively easy. The architecture is so interesting...with tubular escalators on the outside of the building...and lots of entertainment going on by street performers. View image
Josh said, "This is the coolest thing in Paris."
But it was even more interesting for Josh, and us, on the inside. There was a new exhibit called The Big Bang which would capture anybody's attention. The exhibition was built around modern and contemporary art works and combined fine arts, photography, cinema, video, architecture, design and literature.
Destruction, Construction/Deconstruction, Anarchism, Sex, War, Subversion, Melancholy and Re-enchantment were the themes. And when you look at some of the photos below, you will definitely understand why a teen-age boy would be intrigued.
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Days 4 & 5" »
Our Paris Hotel, Hotel Moderne, was situated beautifully. Near the metro (subway), The Sorbonne, Notre Dame. There was a big buffet breakfast which included: ham, cheese, croissants, french baquettes (Josh's favorite), yoghurt, juice, coffee. They also had a computer with free internet so Josh was able to Instant Message back and forth to his parents and friends in the U.S. Everyone got a big kick out of that. View image Another important part of each morning, was racing to the Internet to checkout White Sox scores. This was Labor Day Weekend, 2005, and both Josh and ex-Marine are BIG White Sox fans!
Some internet sites I used to help with this trip were Paris Info, and France Guide. Lots of information.
Today, we were heading out to Fontainebleau. I wanted Josh to see a real chateau, and have a chance to get out to the countryside by train. And, since he is interested in Napoleon...thought it would be interesting.
It took several metro connections to get to the Gare de Lyon....RER train to Fontainebleau/Avon...then Bus A to the Chateau.
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Day 3" »
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