Dimeka, The Hamers and Jumping of the Bulls in South Ethiopia
A short rest at a lodge built for wealthy hunters and back to Orit. there was another tribe to see, the Dassanech but we had had it. Henock said they were very similar to the other tribes and we were wiped out...
Back on the road the next day to the Dimeka Saturday market, another five-hour ride. Along the road were Banna with their cattle, wearing beautiful turquoise colored beading. ...View image... The Banna number around 45,000, live on higher ground east of Mago National Park and practice agriculture. Several hours later, we crossed a gully into Hamer country.
The Hamer number around 50,000. They cultivate sorghum, tobacco, cotton, vegetables and rear cattle and goats. These people are also known for fantastic hairstyles and coppery tresses. The women mix ochre (a powdered red clay), water and butter before rubbing into their hair. Beats Clairol. If a man has recently killed something (man or animal), he is allowed to wear a clay hair bun with feathers. ...View image... Before you knew it, we were at the Dimeka Saturday market. Henock gave us an hour to wander around before lunch across the street. (They had packed a lunch for us.) ...View image... Then, more "free time" to investigate the market.
The Hamers were beyond amazing. ...View image... Body decoration. ...Women wearing iron coils around arms, bead necklaces and iron "torques"/necklaces on the necks of married and engaged women. The first wife has a special necklace made of metal and leather that she wears for life and never removes. Second and third wives have necklaces made of heavy metal and are allowed to take them off. Since ex-Marine (Steve) and I are married a second time, Steve bought me a 2nd wife's necklace. Heavy little sucker... And now I had a Mursi lip plate and Hamer 2nd wife necklace for festive occasions...
The bracelets, necklaces and armlets show the weath and social standing of the family.
One of the most unusual Hamer traditions is the Jumping of The Bulls and you have to be very lucky to see this ceremony. Before a man can marry, he must jump 12-20 bulls lined up side by side. The completely naked prospective groom must jump the entire line of bulls by running over their backs. He then has to turn around and do the same thing three more times! This ritual is a rite of passage into manhood for Hamer men and they start practicing as children.
It is a "not for tourists" ceremony but if tourists are in the vicinity on the scheduled day, money is collected for the privilege of watching. The price asked is usually 150 birr/person and this money pays for the wedding.
Dimeka was another great market and we noticed many women with scars running up and down their backs. The reason? This is part of the Jumping of The Bulls ceremony. The women beg to be whipped to encourage the groom to be in his quest.
Henock came back after lunch with fantastic news. There was going to be a ceremony this afternoon! On to the Jumping of The Bulls.....
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Comments
My name is Haileab Seyoum, i am a professional tour guide and operator in Ethiopia.I wonder about your description and choosen photos.
Thankfully
Exactly what would you like to know about the photos?
Posted by: Haileab Seyoum | November 26, 2008 10:00 AM