An interesting observation on the Way of St. James is there are more women walking than men. Either together, or alone. And, the majority of people are definitely not young. I would guess predominantly in the 50-75 age category, the same category we fall into. Coming up behind some French women, one called out in English (she probably heard the two of us talking behind her), "Where are you from?" ...Chicago, America. She replied...Brittany. We replied..."Brittany? We've been to St. Malo" and she shouted..."St. Malo? I am from St. Malo!" Almost every European we've met and bonded with is extremely surprised to find us (token Americans) on the trail...and are even more shocked when they hear we've actually visited their city or country. Over wine the other night, the Paris Gastroenterologist questioned us on the supposed French reputation of unfriendliness and was thrilled when ex-Marine and I gave glowing answers on how helpful his Nation has always been. And that's the truth!

Slogging Into St. Come D'Olt (pop. 1,297) ...View image...,we noticed the huge Chateau de Calmont d'Olt up on a hill. There was no way that we were going to climb up there and visit. Tonight's hotel, The Hotel Les Jardins d'Eliane is a 19th century Aveyronnaise house. The room is very small but owners friendly and they even let us use their Internet briefly.

Not only was the room small but unique (to put it mildly). There was no wall enclosing the bathroom, only a screen for privacy between the bed and toilet. What the heck...we've been married for almost 30 years...no new surprises here and what would else could you expect from an 18th century house. Set to work hanging, or draping, wet items on every available spot. Wonder of wonders, the rain actually stopped for an hour and we ran out to sightsee this gorgous little town with fortified walls and alleys lined with 15th and 16th century houses. St. Come d'Olt was the most photogenic town to date with its little alleys and houses...

The Chapelle des Penitents is an 11th century Romanesque chapel, St. Come D'Olts first church. Inside, there were ancient staffs hanging from the ceiling and prints showing the practice of medicine during medieval times.

Just looking at these prints gave me the heebie-jeebies. Wouldn't you have hated to be around in those days? Sitting still while something is poked into your chest? And if that didn't kill you, snakes and leeches might finish the job...

Walking around town, we met our co-hikers in misery, the couple from Augsburg, Germany. By now, we were all on "hugging" basis. Misery does love company.

Dinner was served family-style at two long tables, 20 French and us. One table was filled with a tour group. We sat at the other table with eight people who tried very hard to speak whatever English they knew, and I tried very hard to come up with whatever French I knew.

One man asked where we would like to hike (randonnee) next...(they were all great walkers and no one was under 60 at the table). When I said the Alsace Region, six of the eight shouted out that they were from Alsace and immediately wrote down names, addresses, and invited us to visit with them if we came to this region. Our other two ladies were from Montpellier, in the south of France. This was the skimpiest dinner of the entire trip. A salad (consisted of a few lettuce leaves, half an egg and 1/2 of a tomato and little piece of delicious pate); followed by one chicken leg; rice (the only substantial serving); two teeny-weeny pieces of cheese; and the only saving grace, a nice serving of home-made plum tart. We walked away starving... all those miles on the road each day....