Chitral and Into the Kalash Valley, Pakistan
There are three Kafir Kalash valleys located in the northwest of Pakistan : Birir, Bumburet and Rumbur with 20 different villages that retain most of their animist ancestor and fire-worship religions and culture. This entire area has been invaded for eons by Alexander the Great and the Mongols, just to name a few. The Kalash were (or are) also referred to as "unbelievers" because they were forcibly converted to Islam before the turn of the century. They build two-story houses and are considered master architects and wood carvers. We'd camp in this area for two nights, hopeful of seeing a festival or just getting a chance to interact with the Kalash people.
The Kalash women have relative social freedom compared to the Muslim culture in Pakistan. They often elope with another man even though married at the time. Wife-elopement is a "great custom" for them. Sure simplifies a messy divorce. And they obviously don't frown on contact between the sexes.

Chitral itself was another small, one-street town with nada to do or see. We were supposed to have time to explore the area. I think we finally had a hotel but arrived so late at night we couldn't enjoy it. On to the Kalash valley, a very long bumpy drive through a canyon.

Once in the Kalash Valley, a new camping site...and to say the Kalash valley was a letdown would be an understatement... One day of admiring their native dress and homes would have been enough. There was supposed to be a big song-and-dance along with festivities one evening. To see this meant another one-hour drive in each direction. ex-Marine and I took a pass and just laid around in our tent completely exhausted. Several hours later the group returned in hysterics. A two-hour drive for nothing. The Kalash decided not to entertain that night.


The Kalash (Nuristani: Kasivo) or Kalasha, are an ethnic group of the Hindu Kush, who settled in the Northwest Frontier Province of Pakistan. They speak the Kalash language.


Some of the children were very fair and some scholars think that the Kalash they also may be direct descendants of Alexander the Great's army. (His troops were everywhere.) Blond hair and/or light eyes were not unusual and this little boy was my favorite...blonde hair, blue eyes and very dirty face...









Comments
I just wanted to comment on the statement about the Kalash people being direct descendants of Alexander the Great's army. This is an incorrect and overly romanticized mainstream view point. Analysis of their culture and language and after considering the Greek accounts written during Alexander's visit to this area tell us that they have been here for 1000 to 2000 years before Alexander the Great. In fact the Greeks encountered these "fair colored" people. Additionally, genetics put the Kalash in their own group. The evidence does not show that they are related to modern day Greeks and Macedonians.
You are probably 100% correct and I appreciate that fact that you took the time to enlighten my readers. Thanks.
Posted by: G S | April 17, 2008 08:13 PM
please also take a look at this link. This is what I could dig up online for you with my quick search. Nice photos by the way!
http://www.indigenouspeople.net/chitral.htm
Thanks again for the information and I'll definitely look at your link.
Posted by: G S | April 17, 2008 08:15 PM