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ex-Marine (husband, Steve) has one stock answer whenever friends/acquaintances comment that they'd love to travel with us. "No you don't! Perhaps this incident will explain his emphatic answer.
Winter is coming and with that, my thoughts turn to snowshoeing, a favorite winter sport. If ex-Marine had his druthers, he'd spend the winter either in a warm climate or sitting on a couch with a glass of wine in his hand, watching Lifetime, Oprah or True Crime Stories. Unfortunately for the poor guy, he happens to be married to someone who looks for a little challenge and adventure. "He doesn't have to go with you," you say, and, yes, you are right. ex-Marine usually rants, raves and runs around the house like a maniac screaming, "Go by yourself...take one of the kids...find a friend" when he hears my latest vacation suggestion. And when I prepare to do just that, he caves in.
Over the years, we turned from downhill skiing (Alpine), to cross country skiing (Langlauf) to snowshoeing after several winters of scant snow. Snowshoes give the ability to hike uphill (we don't do flat) even with less than one inch of snow. You just clomp through bare sections.
Continue reading "When Snowshoeing on A Ski Hill in Austria Goes Bad" »
Austria is easy to get to from anywhere in the world. Austria has clean drinking water and good food. Austria has thousands of kilometers/miles to hike and ski. Austria is the home of The Sound of Music. Why haven't you visited yet?
Start off by surfing over to the following sites:
- For general information, Official Austria;
- Skiing, Ski Austria; and
- Hiking, Wanderdoerfer.
That's all you need to get started. Your problem will be picking one, two or three areas to visit. V-E-R-Y...difficult to make a choice...
Continue reading "Sheila's Fast and Easy Guide to Austria" »
In the Summer, there are around 2,000 km/1,242 miles of signposted, marked, hiking and bike trails in the Bregenzerwald and Vorarlberg region. Vorarlberg (also encompasses Bregenzerwald) boasts over 5,600 km/3,479 miles of newly marked trails, a distance equal from the North Cape down to Egypt and less than New York City to Los Angeles. Even Forrest Gump would have a hard time running that distance.
Every little Bregenzerwald village has amazing "I" (Information) Tourist Offices (Tourismus) stocked with enough brochures to give you a hernia. Well-marked trails and bicycle paths (both level and mountain bike trails), what to see and do, bus schedules, free internet, etc.
There are 22 completely charming villages/towns in this region and everyone is entitled to a free guest card with a three-night stay. Once again, the guest card entitles you to the following:
Continue reading "Bregenzerwald, Austria Easy Information: Bike, Hike, Walk or Ski" »
A perfect last day in Bregenzerwald for a hike up in Schoppernau. There is big entertainment at the top of the Diedamskopf cable car every Sunday ala the Mellau video. Unfortunately, it rained yesterday (Sunday) and we postponed the hike for today.
The cows were coming down from the alpine pastures on the way to Schoppernau and we dallied to watch the procession for a while before getting to the bottom of the Diedamskopf cable car. My spirits are high and we're ready to ....climb every mountain... on this last brilliant Austrian day. Farms along the trail (this trail was really a small road) with little children playing a game and chasing each other up the incline and back down the incline over and over again...
Continue reading "The Last Hike in Schoppernau, Austria" »
With free transportation throughout the valley, there were endless mountains to explore, walk, bike and/or hike. I poured over the topographic maps every night, and consulted the bus timetables trying to decide which mountain to hike the following day. You may think that's easy but every mountain had trails beginning and ending in all directions.
The buses to Damuls don't run as frequently as the other routes but we managed to push our way on (the buses were always crowded), and the Transportation Authority ordered another bus for those people still standing on the curb. A very busy weekend. Two busloads of people unloaded in Damuls and raced to the Uga Bahn four-person chairlift for the ride up including us. (Love the name "Uga"...reminds me of the Oompa Loompa people in "Charlie and The Chocolate Factory.")
Continue reading "The Uga Bahn in Damuls, Austria and Another Failed Hike" »
The traditional economy of the Alps is based on rearing nice fat dairy cows who traditionally spend the summer, approximately 120 days, high in the lush Alpine pastures. Contentedly munching in fertile fields, many herds are usually in the care of one farmer who tends to them. Some families do have their own pasture lands up in the hills but that is usually not the case.
The seasonal migration between valley and high pastures is critical in feeding the increased number of cattle and additionally supporting human population. Over 205,000 hectares/506,000 acres of summer pastures are cultivated. A single cow needs approximately 40 square meters/430 square feet per day! Now I know why there were cows everywhere in the high pastures and being transported by cattle cars down the street.
Continue reading "The Cows Come Down From The High Pastures in Austria" »
It was cloudy this morning but we persisted and headed to the bus stop. Passing the Hotel Krone****, we heard "hellos" coming from one of the balconies. Looked up and there were our Japanese acquaintances from yesterday waving to us. Jumped on the early bus to Bezau with hearts set on reaching the summit of the cable car station. Today's selectiion was one the red and white trails, the middle grade classification, in between "easy" and "don't think about it." We both can go up almost anything...but the downs are a killer.
The Number 40 bus doesn't stop anywhere near the beginning of the path but walking through pretty Bezau, I spotted a big Backerei and the their sign said, "open all day." Tucked that in a brain cell for the walk back into Bezau. It took about 10 minutes from the bus stop to the trailhead meandering along a stream...View image....
Continue reading "Hiking in The Bezau, Austria Area" »
Austria is known for its pastries and sweets, a food category right up my alley. There is Apple Strudel and Topfenstrudel (a cream cheese strudel that used to be my favorite). Coiled buns resembling "snails" and our new favorite, Schnecken. Schnecken closely resemble ordinary Cinnamon Buns but are stickier, gooier and filled with nuts or chocolate instead of just cinnamon. The Sachertorte is a torte made with chocolate and glazed with apricot jam (I can take it or leave this torte) and another favorite, the Zwetschkenfleck, an upside-down cake topped with plums and cinnamon. Fortunately, I don't have to pronounce these names in a Bakerei. Just point to one yummy or another...
Entrees you are probably familiar with are Wiener Schnitzel (either a pounded piece of fried pork or veal) and Goulash (plain old stew). Guy, Chef de Cuisine at Hotel Tannahof, prided himself on not serving just "ordinary" Austrian cooking but a more gourmet version that sprung from his French background. Creamed Curry Soup, Guinea Hen in a Zucchini sauce with noodles and even blueberry tarts using fresh blueberries picked by him on the nearby mountains....View image... Never heavy and always a tasty surprise with a very creative touch.
Continue reading "Enjoying Austrian Food, Wine and Flowers" »
Continuing the hike from Schrocken to Lech, you could see the chairlifts and vast ski circus in the distance. Lech is one of the most biggest and most fabulous ski circuses in Europe combining Lech, Oberlech, Zurs and down the road, an easy ride to St. Anton am Arlberg - huge! For you Americans, Beaver Creek is one of Lech's sister resorts. Zurs is synonymous with Lech, usually mentioned in the same breath - "Lech/Zurs." The 2009/2010 Winter season begins in November if you're interested.
Lech, at an altitude of 1,450m/4,757', has 250 km/155 miles of signposted trails. Extremely well signposted trails let me assure you. If you visit Lech in the summer, there is fly fishing, golf, Nordic walking, running, paragliding, canyoning, rafting, AND child care in the Kids Active Club.
Continue reading "Down Into Lech, Austria and Tourist Information" »
I'm halfheartedly wishing for a rainy day, just one, then we'd take a day off from hiking. But it's another blue sky, sunny day with the mountain views mentally forcing us to exercise. Picked what is supposed to be an excellent hike for today. A classic, easy, panoramic, high-altitude family hike. The Tourist Office literature suggests beginning in Lech and ending in Schrocken because there are cable cars in Lech to begin with. We'll do the reverse and end in Lech.
There's a 30-45 minute hold up on the bus to Schrocken and no traffic is going in either direction. I asked the person behind me if they sprechen ze English, and the women mentioned something about a landslide, but while sitting an ambulance went by. They are doing roadwork but why would they need an ambulance for roadwork? 'Tis a puzzlement.
Continue reading "A Fabulous Hike from Schrocken to Lech, Austria" »
It was the American holiday, Labor Day, and man...did we "labor." Started the morning with the usual humungous breakfast...View image...and caught the crowded bus back to Mellau. Over the stream...View image...and a half hour walk towards the base of the mountain and today's chosen trail that would take us to the top of the Rofstelle Bergbahn (cable car). The route is basically a ski-access road in the winter. If you ski, you know what I'm talking about. A very easy trail/road that gradually winds back and forth forever - usually a "Green (easy) Trail" for beginners.
The trails in Austria are marked in a different manner. Keep in mind that "easy" is subjective and based on the "easiest way" in a particular area. There are still ups and down, very steep at times .
Continue reading "Two Hikes; One Began in Mellau, The Other, Damuls, Austria" »
An early start since the weather forecast was for sunny early and possible thunderstorms later in the day. Never happy about being caught up high in the mountains during an electrical storm. My mommy didn't raise no dummy! Out the front door of Hotel Tannahof and down the road in front up it leading into the valley. A 15-minute walk until the trail sign pointed uphill. A steep uphill through the woods with steps built into the path. When the Austrians build steps, you know it's steep.
Out of the forest, through pastures and small hamlets in the mountains still heading uphill. Au is at 600' and the highest altitude gained today would be 5,500'. There were other paths and trail markers... View image...leading off in all directions but we continued towards our goal. This particular path also became a dirt road in sections that not only led to some of the hamlets but also to restaurants in the mountains. It was a Sunday and what better way for the locals to spend then drive up to a little restaurant and have a leisurely lunch enjoying the views...
Continue reading "Austria, Up and Over From Au to Mellau in Another Valley" »
Up in the morning on a sunny day ready for the always wonderful Austrian breakfast. You can usually expect yogurt, whole fruit, cut up fruit, salami, ham and other meats, cheese, jellies, butter, an abundance of different rolls and breads, eggs made to order, juice and coffee. If that doesn't stoke you up for exercise, nothing will.
A three-block walk to the Au Tourist Office. Free guest cards, topographic maps, information cheerfully dispensed along with complimentary internet. The knowledgeable woman in charge recommended an easy hike up to the Bergcristalhutte for starters that would take only around two hours.
Continue reading "Au, Austria Information and Hike to The Bergcristalhutte" »
It is a 45-minute and 48 km/30 mile ride from the Bregenz train station to Au, Austria through gorgeous mountain scenery and the small villages of Bregenzerwald. People were standing by the road waiting at bus stops after the day's hiking. Trails leading up the mountains, wild flowers, green pastures and cows with their bells clanking a catchy tune in the fresh air.
Juliana (owner) of Hotel Tannahof was waiting at the door to greet us. The Hotel is small and has a family feel to it. It doesn't take more than a few days before the guests become "a family." Brochures and information about the entire area everywhere in the Hotel along with a computer and free internet. We'll go into the Au Tourist Office tomorrow to get the free Bregenzerwald guest cards that entitles anyone who stays for three nights to free bus rides, chair lifts, gondolas, entrance to swimming pools and more within the entire Bregenzerwald area that spreads for at least 160 kms/100 miles.
Continue reading "Au, Austria - The Hills Are Alive..." »
A relatively smooth start to the trip with a United flight to Frankfurt and every seat full. Coach, Business Class and First Class (not that we were sitting there, back in crowded Coach). A short flight, only 7:45 hours arriving at the ungodly hour of 5:40 am. Big advantage to staying loyal to one airline and becoming a Premier flyer. In our case, 1K on United. This gives access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge, a truly great Airport lounge. The Senator Lounge has ice cream bars, showers (love their toilets -- the kind that sanitize with a bar that automatically rolls around the seat when you flush), three kinds of yogurt, cut up fruit, fresh fruit, salami, cold meats, cheese, juices, coffee, different kinds of breads and rolls, hard boiled eggs, a pasta bar for meals later in the day, cereal, nuts, candy, wine, beer and soft drinks. Did I forget anything? Lufthansa sure didn't. Another perk that Lufthansa offers throughout the Airport. Free newspapers (Wall Street Journal, International Herald, USA Today, to name a few) for all Lufthansa flights regardless what class you are flying.
A 30-minute flight from Frankfurt to Zurich and tell me when was the last time you took a 30-minute flight and attendants still managed to serve soft drinks and cookies. Lufthansa is amazing.
Continue reading "Heading to Au, Austria in Bregenzerwald," »
It's not necessary to relate all the details involved in planning an Austrian vacation. Many airlines fly to Munich, Germany and Zurich, Switzerland, the easiest gateways into the Bregenzerwald area. Even though the current airline rates are astronomical, persist! Airline fares change daily... Try Kayak, Booking Buddy and you'd be surprised what decent fares materialize. Other important bits of information are:
Finding An Affordable Hotel/Pension/Apartment? I used the Bregenzerwald website to request a brochure and for hotel/pension/guesthouse/apartment inquiries. Again, try Hotels.com
 , Kayak, Booking Buddy for hotels if that's easier for you.
Continue reading "Planning A Bregenzerwald, Austria Trip" »
There are choices. Stay home and forget about Europe or try to find other, less expensive alternatives. It's no secret that the U.S. Dollar is doing a little better against the Euro and English Pound (as of this writing) but what do you do if your feet are itching to get on that plane and you are short of funds? Do what I do, get on the Internet and start googling.
ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I both enjoy day-hiking in Europe with Austria one of our favorite destinations. Up on a hill is a lonely goatherd... You can base yourself in one or two different locations, snarf down a humungous breakfast with yogurt, breads, juice, cheese, ham, other breakfast meats, eggs, pates, jelly, jam, wonderful butter (forget the margarine and pig out on real butter). Throw on a day pack and set off for a day in the mountains. Take a FREE cable car up the mountains in many resorts, return down to a valley and hop the usually FREE bus back to the original starting point or...do nothing.
Continue reading "Visiting Europe When The Economy Stinks" »
It's so easy and comfortable to cycle around Lake Constance for one day or a week. A leisure bicyclist could complete the entire 268 km/166 circuit in 7 days without any problem and even three days if you are one of those 80 km/50 mile/day bicyclists. One of the many websites to look at is Bodensee-Radweg who will arrange tours including breakfast as well as transport bags.
Another way of doing the circuit is to base yourself in Lindau and use the wonderful public transport facilities. Ride until you are tired and then hop the train or ferry back to Lindau or Bregenz. Don't have to worry about transporting heavy luggage, unpacking and packing or finding suitable accommodation.
Continue reading "Easy Bicycling Around Lindau, Germany and Lake Constance" »
You can do it! The possibilities are endless. You just have to gut out the flight over from America (if you are American). Sheila's genius hint: Think rolls of scotch tape without the metal edge. Tear up paper, napkins, anything and create daisy chains, make bracelets. Hang and attach from the seat trays and yourself. Let them wax your legs and arms with the tape...who cares as long as they're happy. Just remember to tear everything off before disembarking. Bring ample supplies of munchies (never mind nutrition when you must face 7+ hours in a cabin with the little dears). I let one of my children slime graham crackers at the age of 7 months for endless hours and he survived (but you should have seen what the seat looked like!)...
Once there, you've got it made unless you have to change poopie diapers on the ledge of a train station... Head for a condominium or pension or hotel in at least one-week increments. Pick no more than two locations.
Continue reading "Take Your Children To Austria" »
Bregenz, Austria has a history dating back 2,000 years and was settled by the Romans who gave it the name "Brigantium." The Medieval Upper Town had many interesting sights but we only looked for and visited a few.
- One very unusual sight was House #29 on Kirchstrasse with what is known as the narrowest facade from far and near (or near and far). It is only 57 cm/22 inches wide, about the size of a doorway and that is the entire facade. There was no one to tell me how wide the inside of the house was;
- Martinsturm tower with the largest onion dome in central Europe, and Martinskappelle chapel, both dating from the 14-15th century;
Continue reading "Bregenz, Austria - Upper Town and Medieval Section" »
A rainy day in Au, Austria gave us a perfect excuse to take the local bus to Bregenz and spend the day sightseeing. FYI: There is a yearly Schubert Festival held in Schwarzenberg, Austria that features almost 100 events including orchestra and piano concerts, chamber music and more. You can buy tickets through any Bregenzerwald Tourist Office or the Schubert Festival link above. While we were waiting for the bus to Bregenz, spent a little time talking to two Japanese people who few to Austria for one week just to attend this yearly festival. Something to keep in mind.
The local buses all stop at the Bregenz train station and from there, it's a short two block walk to the huge "I" (Information) office where you can get maps and brochures for the entire region.
Continue reading "Spend A Day or Two in Bregenz, Austria" »
A million lifetimes isn't enough to explore Europe on foot, bicycle or just sightsee. Each time we visit and choose a different country area to explore, it's love at first sight. In Europe, you can begin the day in one destination, hike/bike or walk around lakes, up and over mountains, visit charming towns on the way and return at night on the fast and efficient train and bus systems. Public transportation and chairlifts are bicycle/children/people friendly, there is always a refuge or mountain hut to stop for lunch and every region, without exception is gorgeous.
Here are seven of my favorite areas along with personal favorite towns. It will come as no surprise to anyone that Switzerland is #1 followed by Austria #2 because they are "no brainers" thanks to wonderful signage on almost all routes. France is a close #3:
Continue reading "Sheila's 7 Favorite Countries to Hike, Bike, Walk in Europe" »
We lucked out with clear blue skies, abundant sunshine and enough snow for both snowshoers and skiers. There have been times, because European ski resort bases are usually lower in altitude than Colorado or Utah, we've snowshoed over patches of grass! Skiers were thrilled though because a low front moved in on our last night, snow started falling and was expected to snow for the next 3-4 days. Fresh powder for all you powder-hounds.
The mix of clientele in St. Anton, Austria was interesting because of the preponderance of English-speakers. Tignes, Meribel and other French resorts are usually filled with a majority of French speakers and I missed being forced not to attempt any German. But, as Christoph Fahrner pointed out, there were quite a few Russians and Swedes staying at the Hotel Fahrner and English-speaking has become universal around the world.
Continue reading "Auf Wiedersehen, St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria" »
Austria is not only known for pastries, cheese, meats, chocolate but...wait let me think...is there anything Austria is known for in the food category that isn't right up my alley? Do bears #*!# in the woods? The bakery in St. Anton had the absolutely best Topfenstrudel (a cream cheese strudel with a gazillion calories) I've ever tasted and believe me, I've tasted quite a few. Their Schnecken (coiled buns resembling "snails" and filled with nuts, cinnamon, and occasionally frosted) were also to die for.
It's not easy to find fondue in restaurants at home (or TTopfenstrudel...actually I've never found Topfenstrudel in my area). Whether it be a Beef Fondue or Cheese Fondue, they are both delicious though my personal favorite happens to be the huge chafing dish of Cheese fondue. Visualize dipping cubes of bread into gobs of melted cheese and my mouth begins to water...
Continue reading "Fondues, Meat and Cheese, Raclette and Other Delicious Foods in Austria" »
It was sunny today so we walked from Hotel Fahrner down into St. Anton the long way since we had just missed the bus (again) to the bakerei (bakery) thinking that ooey-gooey pastries would taste darn good after snowshoeing. Der Backer Ruetz had baked the wonderful topfenstrudel and ex-Marine chose a yummy schnecken. Stowed carefully in the backpack, we caught the Post Bus to Alpe Rauz, at 5,413'. Even though we had asked the bus driver to let us off there, he blew by the stop and let us off on the busy highway...thanks, every so. A five minute careful walk into oncoming traffic to the base of the schlep lift (t-bar)...honest, that's what they call it... put on snowshoes and started the long walk up to the top of the mountain.
The ski runs/pistes from Alpe Rauz head downhill to Stuben from where you can take a chair lift up and ski back to Alpe Rauz. There is also a very long run from the very top of the Valluga Cable car all the way down to Stuben. (I'm not quite sure how many kilometers/miles it actually is.)
Continue reading " The Alpe Rauz and The Valluga Bahn, Seems Like The Top of The World in Austria" »
Why do people think that just because I force myself to go out and exercise, I love it? Thirty-one years of running, walking, hiking, aerobics, using weights (when I remember), skiing, cross-country skiing. Exercise tapes with Jane Fonda, followed by yoga with Jane Fonda. Health clubs, treadmills, a Nordic Track and elliptical. (I do own a Precor elliptical and have to browbeat myself to get on that.) Before that, the dreaded "gym" classes where I never could climb the pole or yank myself up the rope. Sit ups. Tennis and Racquetball. Actually, they were both fun until my knees decided that any lateral movement was out of the question.
Despite my moans and groans, I keep remembering that I have to use it or lose it. That's brought home by the yearly paperwork I receive from the N.I.H. (National Institute of Health) to fill out. I am part of the observational study launched by the Women's Health Initiative, in 1991. The other part of this study consists of clinical trials. This study involved 161,808 generally healthy postmenopausal women.
Continue reading "No One Hates to Exercise More Than I" »
Even "perfect me" (ha-ha) manages to screw up every now and then and today was a "perfect" example. My chosen route was Blue ski run #23 ("easiest") that was supposed to wind around, back and forth, to the top of the Gampenbahn chair lift. The usual snowshoes on, jackets off, we began at the bottom of St. Anton next to the children's ski school, following blue signs. It seemed like minutes before we (I) missed the turn and was on a steep Red ("more difficult") that we huffed and puffed up. If that wasn't bad enough, the red turned into a Black ("hardest") that was so tough we had to dig the front crampons on the snowshoes into the snow to keep from falling back.
ex-Marine was shouting curses at me (like I was happy?) and neither one of us was having fun while schvitz (sweat) flew in all directions and skiers schussing down past us probably wondered what these two crazy people were doing jamming toes into the snow. Exhausted, it wasn't for another hour that an escape route turned off on Blue for the rest of the way up.
Continue reading "Eventually, We Made It to The Top of The Gampenbahn in Austria" »
We could see the little yellow Rendl Bahn gondolas from our room. The lifts open at 8:45 a.m. and close at 4:30 p.m. and everything runs like clockwork. The Rendl Bahn will be replaced after 35 years of service during winter 2009/2010 with new high-speed 8-seater cabins that will whisk up to 2,000 persons per hour up the mountain. Rendl was today's destination and we actually managed to catch the Line #3 bus to Terminal West and then hopped on Line #1 bus that shuttles back and forth every 10 minutes to the Rendl lift.
Our gondola held a ski instructor from Zurs and his class, two little boys from Melbourne, Australia. He was planning to ski off-piste (untracked, ungroomed and not supervised by the Ski Patrol) with them, down to Pettnau, and then taxi back to Zurs. Those little boys couldn't have been much more than 12 years old and have to be pretty darn good skiers for the route they were going to take. The Rendl area is going to be developed more extensively and it was easy to see why. Wide expanses as far as you could see with blue and red trails. If you manage to get to the top of the Riffel II Chair Lift, there is a climbing route secured with steel cable up the Vordere Rendlspitze!
Continue reading "The Rendl Ski Runs and Bahn, St. Anton, Austria" »
St. Christoph is at an altitude of 1,800m/5,905', 500 m/1,600' higher than St. Anton. There are free ski buses that run the entire day and night around the St. Anton area, each clearly marked with a number and bus schedules posted at every stop. Hotel Farhner was on the Line 3 Oberdorf line and somehow, our timing was off almost every day and we managed to miss it. All the buses stop in the Terminal West area.
The buses are not free to St. Christoph, Alpe Rauz, Zurs and Lech and also run at least twice an hour daily. The fare was 1.90 Euros one-way to St. Christoph. Today's game plan was take the Number 92, 10:35 a.m. Post Bus to St. Christoph (it's only a 17-minute bus ride), and hike up a blue trail to the top of the Galzig Bahn cable car and take that down. (I despise walking downhill in snowshoes.. plod, plod, plod.)
Continue reading "A Day at St. Christoph, Austria and The Top of The Galzig Bahn" »
It doesn't get any suckier than having a birthday January 10 in Chicago. The Christmas holiday is over. A New Year has begun with regrets for broken resolutions and the 2008 financial meltdown. Chicago weather is brutal and, unfortunately, that's where I usually spend my birthday. Not this year. Determined to be someplace else, St. Anton am Arlberg was my choice to jump-start 2009 with exercise in clean, mountain air and wonderful Austrian food.
A great night's sleep and Hotel Fahrner's bounteous breakfast buffet greeted us. Ham, salami, yogurt, fruit salad, cheeses, different cereals, eggs to order, liver pates, confitures (jellies), butter, rolls and bread. Stoked up, put on our longies (long underwear), layers, slathered on the sun screen and headed down the very slippery road into the village of St. Anton. For those of you who've never visited a European ski resort in the winter, they don't use salt on the roads. Instead, they use a cinder/stone/pea gravel mixture that becomes embedded into the ice. I don't know if you remember Arte Johnson's (from Laugh In) imitation of that little old man, but I mimic Arte taking teensy-weensy steps, trying not to fall and break a leg. Remember, we're talking inclines here...not flat ground.
Continue reading "Celebrating My Birthday in St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria" »
St. Anton is another ski area that has changed tremendously over the years. On our last visit, we walked out of the small railway station and there were the slopes right in front of our eyes. This time, we threw the luggage off the train (yes, we do throw the bags off...that is why you'll never see us with Vuitton luggage), took an elevator down one level, walked into a sleek, new train station and out the door where taxis were lined up. (There was Taxi Lami, Taxi Harry, etc.)
The Hotel Fahrner was a 20-minute walk from the train station...uphill...that and, if you think we were going to attempt that.... The Hotel later showed us a short cut to the village (around 5 minutes walk) that was slipperier than all get out. Instead, 9.60 Euros by taxi.
Continue reading "The Village of St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria" »
The Arlberg area consists of seven Tyrolian villages. St. Anton am Arlberg, St. Christoph, St. Jakob, Pettneu, Schnann, Flirsch and Strengen. There are over 12,800 guest accommodations in this region ranging from bed and breakfasts to luxury hotels. You can also ride the free of charge ski buses between all villages listed above and ski buses to Lech for 5.60 EUR round trip. St. Anton is huge and here are a few statistics:
- 1,304m/4,278' above sea level
- 280 kms/174 miles of of ski runs
- 180 kms/111 miles of open skiing terrain
- 85 cablecars/lifts
- Traffic free zones
Activities?
- How about an 850m/492' climbing route secured with steel cables through cliffs and ridges?
- Sledding runs in St. Anton, Schnann and Flirsch? The Nasserein run provides evening shuttle service on Tuesday and Thursday to the starting area of the 4.3 km/2.5 mile long toboggan run.
Continue reading "About St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria" »
If you had ever told me that we'd make an early morning train from the Zurich Airport to St. Anton, I would have said "bull." Travel is always a learning experience and we've learned the hard way that planes are late, train personnel go on strike, one bag is missing, no trains are available because it's a holiday and everything is completely booked...and on and on...
Because of that, I made reservations on a 1:15 p.m. train even though our United Airlines flight was supposed to arrive in Zurich by 8:20 a.m. The first possible train left Zurich Airport at 9:20 a.m., arrived in the Zurich Bahnhof (main train station) at 9:36 a.m., and the direct train to St. Anton then left at 9:40 a.m. To anticipate cutting it this close was foolhardy.
Continue reading "A Travel Day to St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria" »
Air?Again you can search, plan and/or book on-line through BookingBuddy's Top Travel Deals newsletter , Hotwire and Kayak . The least expensive fare on United Airlines, our carrier of choice, flew from Chicago via Washington Dulles to Zurich, Switzerland. We stick like glue to United through good and bad times because of the "perks" given to upper tier customers. Bypassing lines, priority waitlist, free upgrades from economy to business class when economy is overbooked and a dedicated 1-800 number for elite status. It's worth it and even if you don't fly a lot, try to concentrate your miles on one carrier.
Visas? Passports only for European travel.
Continue reading "Planning A St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria Trip" »
As a lifelong Chicagoan, you know I have to like winter to continue living here but flat Chicago doesn't come close to measuring up to Austria. "...the hills are alive, with the sound of music..." And winter-und sommer in the small towns of Austria is a completely different experience. Surf through my website for past articles on snowshoe hiking and read about ex-Marine's (husband, Steve) and my passion for this activity. Davos, St. Moritz, Zermatt, Italy, France...wherever there are mountains, you'll find us.
The first step of me is to check out airfares from Chicago to Munich, Paris, Zurich and Milan, the easiest and most popular destinations to fly into before training to the chosen town. The fares change daily so don't get discouraged and keep looking on Kayak, BookingBuddy.com for discounts on airfare, hotels, car rentals and more , and Hotwire for for the least expensive fares.
Continue reading "A Winter Break in Austria" »
Happy birthday to me...happy birthday to me...happy birthday dear Sheila...cha-cha-cha...happy birthday to me. Yes, that day is here. My 68th Birthday and pray where might I be celebrating? In St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria. January is the suckiest month of the year to have a birthday. Christmas is over, a New Year has begun and Chicago weather stinks. I really don't mind the snow but the cold! Chicago set a record January 10, 1982 with an actual temperature of -26 Fahrenheit/-32 Celsius while the high winds created a wind chill of -77 Fahrenheit/-60 Celsius below Zero. Even Antarctica is usually warmer than this!
Other people escape the cold and turn into sunbirds for the Winter but my druthers is always to "embrace" Winter by snowshoeing somewhere in Europe. Give me a sunshiney day, clean, cold, crisp winter air, mountains and I'm happy. During my old skiing days in Crested Butte, Colorado in 1995, ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I were standing at the mountain base when a young girl came running down the mountain on snowshoes. All she was wearing was a sweatshirt, sweatpants and running shoes attached to snowshoes.
Continue reading "Happy Birthday in St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria" »
If you have never connected through Heathrow, or are planning to connect, you have a miserable treat in store for you. This is a cautionary article - just so you know what to expect among Heathrow's FOUR terminals.
We flew Munich to London on Lufthansa, landing in Terminal 2, and then had two hours to connect to our United, London-Chicago flight out of Terminal 3. You'd think that's plenty of time, right?
This is the routine:
1. After getting off Lufthansa in Terminal 2, walking close to a mile as rapidly as possible, there is SECURITY in front of you. Hundreds of passengers who had just gotten off planes being directed into TWO lines for additional scanning. We had a 3:40pm flight and it was now 2:30pm. ONE HOUR later, finally through Security. Next?
Continue reading "Traveling Through London/Heathrow Airport" »
We have noticed four major changes over our 30 years of European Travel.
1. Food - The Portion Sizes. The two of us used to walk away from a meal, starving, because European portions were much smaller than ours. A quarter of a chicken was normal for them, but not for us Americans used to eating a half-chicken, probably raised on steroids. How that has changed! Portions are now Huge with a capital H. Dinner the other night included: soup, salad bar, a dinner plate of Mixed Grill (small steak and pork chop) surrounded with enough French Fries for three people, grilled vegetables and desert! This was a normal, half-pension size meal for 8 Euros! Not that we're complaining and not enjoying every single morsel! Unfortunately, we can eat up to and beyond any amount of calories expended exercising. We admit it - willpower is not in our vocabulary.
small salad
Continue reading "Changes in European Travel Over the Years" »
Today, is a huge Musik Festival commemorating and celebrating two things:
- The first celebrates the 50-year anniversary when St. Johann went from village status to town status (I guess it was an important move for them); and
- The second is a big music fest where 14 local Brass bands are judged to see who is the best in the Tirol.
There will also be a great parade with all the bands, 20 colorful floats, followed by concerts of the Oberndorf and Going Brass Bands and other musicians.
Everything starts after 10am Mass in the local St. Johann church.
Continue reading "St. Johann di Tirol Musikfest, Austria" »
We hiked (walked) from the bottom of Kitzbuhel to the top of the Kitzbuhler Horn and were amazed by the amount of people that drove up (there is a road from the bottom), took the 4-person gondolas up and were hiking all over the mountain! They will even load your bicycle on the outside of the gondolas and send it up to the Alpenhaus at 1670 meters, the end of the gondola line.
From the Alpenhaus, people then hiked (basically walked) or rode their bikes up to the Kitzbuheler Horn at 1996 meters ...View image...(with my Garmin GPS, it was about 6,400').
Continue reading "Hiking Up The Kitzbuhler Horn, Austria" »
If only a glitzy, up-scale resort (but still with lots of charm) will do for you, then Kitzbuhel is the place to stay. There is a Louis Vuitton there...need I say more? We decided to stay in St. Johann because their hotel prices fitted our smaller budget. Visit the officialwebsite for whatever information you need. In the summer, there are four local golf courses, 500 km of walking trails, 750 km of cycling trails, mountain biking routes and much more.
Kitzbuhel has a historical town center loaded with charm. ...View image... There must have been four to six little Konditorei/Bakerei/Confiseries within a two-block area and a multitude of sidewalk cafes, horse-drawn carriage rides, etc..
Continue reading "Kitzbuhel, Austria Sightseeing" »
Here too, are many activities and celebrations planned for tourists. On July 22, there was an International Accordian Meeting with the best accordian players from Tirol, Salzburg, Bavaria and South Tirol demonstrating their musical skills, and August 5 was a major Mountain Bike Race.
St. Johann has a summer sled track, called a Rodelbahn, with two tracks running parallel to each other. It's 1km long and a chair lift takes you to the top of it. Looks like great fun!
For a small little area, it's surprising how many people are visiting, walking around (not hiking) through the area. And of course, eating.
Continue reading "St. Johann di Tirol, Austria" »
Tonight was a big Pro Bike Race, 70 (I think) laps around Mayrhofen, with many Tour de France bikers taking part. We stopped to talk to some local announcers trying to find out exactly what was going on....View image....went in for dinner and came out to watch the proceedings.
Sorry, all your fanatical bike fans. Watching a bike race is like watching paint dry (for us). You stand there and the bikers zoom by in a split second! It wasn't exactly engrossing plus we were leaving for St. Johann di Tirol the next day. However, we showed some esprit, clapping and shouting encouragement for heavens knows who they were.
We learned another new travel lesson at the Zillertalerhof (there is always something). You had to pay for all your drinks in cash...not on a credit card. This is the first time we've ever run across that while staying at a hotel, and it certainly made no sense to us. The personnel in the restaurants and maids were wonderful but the reception person was rather condescending which left a bad taste. (When I asked a question, he would reply, "I already told you and will tell you once again.") Otherwise, the hotel was wonderful.
Continue reading "Mayrhofen Bike Race and On to St. Johann di Tirol, Austria" »
If you happen to bring your children to Austria, Mayrhofen (for one) has a children's program that changes weekly with free things to do. For a nominal cost, there are many things for them to learn and do in their weekly program for a fee. For example: Wednesday is "Action Day." You can choose between Paragliding at 35E (a tandem flight) and rafting at a cost of 20E. Thursday is "Adventure Day - With Climbing." For 10E, a trained mountain guide will take your child climbing and abseiling. What great chances to learn something completely different, and I bet it's a lot less than summer camp in the U.S.
There is almost too much to do and decide on.
The weather was still unseasonably hot and many people spent their time at one of the area swimming pools with water slides and other activities. We were still hiking and eating up to and beyond every single calorie we've expended and it seems that everyone else was on the same wave-length. Eating and drinking is a favorite pastime here.
Continue reading "Mayrhofen, Austria and Other Activites" »
After a humungous Austrian buffet dinner: Roast Pork, different kinds of meats and potatoes, salad buffet, cooked vegetables, shrimp, two kinds of cake, mousse, ice cream and whipped cream for the cake and fruit, we were ready to exercise hard!
What do do today? If extreme sports interest you, there is Paragliding, Hang-gliding, Canyoning. There are several companies that specialize in this but I'm a coward.
Fishing, hydro speed on the Ziller River using a hydro speed board and flippers, kayaking, climbing routes, a boulder (climbing) hall with 1,300 handles, mini-golf, mountain bike tours, rafting, riding and tennis? Or, renting a bicycle to ride along the many kilometers of completely flat bike paths.
Continue reading "More Mayrhofen, Austria in The Tirol" »
After a huge buffet breakfast with the usual Meusli (four different kinds), cereal, yoghurts, fresh fruit, nuts and grains, eggs, all kinds of luncheon meats (salami, ham, etc.), four kinds of cheeses, salads, breads, rolls, marble cake, juice, coffee, etc., we felt much better and ready to cope...fat, but ready to cope.
First stop? The Information Office with its varied information. Maps, bus schedules, information about a 6-day pass that covers all trains, buses, outdoor swimming pools and working cable cars/gondolas for 39 Euros. It is called the Zillertal Card and is good from June to October. There is even a family ticket, and if two parents purchase, children born between 1991-1999 travel free.
The Mayrhofen Tourist Board even has daily free guided walks and bike rides for their guests.
Continue reading "Spending A Week in Mayrhofen, Austria" »
Cement this thought into your brain while traveling - nothing will leave or arrive on time. Whether there is going to be a three-hour plane delay at O'Hare because of terrible thunderstorms...or a mechanical... something is going to go wrong and throw all your plans off. We ended up getting into Munich too late to make our train connection...and practiced some deep breathing! Get used to the notion that you are probably going to miss your plane, train and anything else you counted on. If you have a tour or cruise that absolutely can't be missed, leave an extra day early.
Trains in Europe used to take pride on arriving and departing exactly on time. That too, has long gone by the wayside. Not one single long-distance (or local) train arrived or left on time during our two weeks. Resign yourself and always leave enough time between train connections in the eventuality that your train is late (which it will be).
But once we actually arrived in Munich (finally), it was a simple matter to find the Bahn (train) desk right after arrivals to get new train departure schedules. We already had our tickets. Then, a short walk across the open courtyard (with Burger King and a Beer Garden) to the S-Bahn/Train Station.....View image
Continue reading "Using Trains in Austria" »
Planning is relatively easy. You just have to decide where in Austria you want to visit. There are festivals galore in the summer including: The Salzburg Mozart Festival (impossible to get tickets), Innsbruck Music Festival and much more.
Air? Air is high in the summer but persist and perhaps you can find a reasonable fare buy using Airfarebasement.com, Economytravel.com or trying other airlines. We found tickets on United into Munich with a return on Lufthansa from Munich to London/Heathrow, then United from London to Chicago. It was $400/person less doing it that way than a non-stop flight. Worth it to us.
Continue reading "Planning Your Austrian Trip" »
If there is a choice between trekking or hiking, I'll take hiking every time. There's nothing like getting out of a bed in the morning (rather than crawling out of a sleeping bag), eating a hearty Austrian breakfast, hoisting my day pack and heading up into the beautiful mountains for some exercise.
Surrounded by wildflowers, evergreen trees and clear air, I plod along uphill, humming my favorite hiking song, "Up on a hill is a lonely goatherd..." And end of the day, a downhill, heading back to our hotel - stopping on the way back at a Konditorie (bakery) for a yummy dessert - into a steaming, hot bath (most European hotels don't have a hot water regulator and it's literally possible to parboil yourself in the tub), read a little and eat a wonderful dinner with wine. That is what I call living!
Looking for a fast, relatively inexpensive hiking and walking holiday, we decided to go back to Austria.
Continue reading "Walking and Hiking in Austria" »
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