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- Visiting South Africa in Hindsight
- Stellenbosch and Constantia Wine Routes in South Africa
- Klippe Rivier Country House in Swellendam, South Africa
- Tsitsikamma National Park, South Africa and The Otter Trail
- Knysna Oysters on The Garden Route, South Africa
- Ondini Historical Reserve, Durban and Knysna, South Africa
- Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift Battlefields, South Africa
- Babanango, The Heart of Zulu Country, South Africa
- A Visit to Dmazulu Village, South Africa
- Searching for Game on Foot at Phinda Game Reserve, South Africa
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For once, you don't have to sit through..."why didn't we do this...why didn't we do that...I hated this hotel, etc...." The "Adventuring in South Africa" tour put together by Wilderness Travel was as close to perfection any trip could possibly be.
- The South African game reserves and animals sightings were fantastic. You are almost 100 percent guaranteed to see all of the Big Five in these private reserves;
- Incredible and over the top (to my unsophisticated thinking) luxury hotels. If our hotels weren't luxurious enough for you, there are camps in South Africa where individual accommodations are the size of small houses with your own swimming pool, etc. if you so choose;
- Food and wine is excellent throughout South Africa; and
Continue reading "Visiting South Africa in Hindsight" »
Whether or not you are an oenophile (wine connoisseur), semi-knowledgable about what you are drinking or classify wine as red, white or rose (like ex-Marine and myself), Stellenbosch and Constantia are the great wine routes in South Africa. Stellenbosch was founded in 1679 and it wasn't long before the perfect climate helped Stellenbosch become synonymous with high quality award wines.
The Stellenbosch Wine Route is made up of 200 wineries which produce a large variety of red and white wines. Daily wine tasting, cellar tours and sales are offered at most cellars and many of these have restaurant and picnic facilities. Besides wine tasting. there are also many walks in the area ranging from an easy 5.3 km/3 miles to the 17.1 km/10-1/2 mile Panorama Trail. Visit some of the pubs, and cute general stores. One of these is Oom Samie se Winkel (Uncle Samie's Shop) dating from 1904 that sells antiques, confectionary, sweets, jams, furniture and curios to take home. Our big purchase was a wooden, carved wart hog (tusks and all) that we promptly named "Pumba."
Continue reading "Stellenbosch and Constantia Wine Routes in South Africa" »
It was less than 225 kms/140 miles from George to Klippe Rivier Country House in Swellendam heading west to Cape Town and if I thought Phinda Forest Lodge was spectacular, the group nearly fainted upon arrival at Klippe Rivier Country House. I grew up sharing a three-bedroom, one bathroom Chicago apartment with parents, grandparents and two sisters. Who could imagine that people actually lived like this!
Klippe Rivier is a Dutch East India country homestead built circa 1825 and each of the guest bedrooms is named after one of the historic owners The original waenhuis (wagonhouse) and stables were converted into six spacious and luxury bedrooms (luxury is a gross understatement). The three bedrooms downstairs have open fireplaces and walled in herb gardens and are decorated differently. The bedrooms upstairs have a sweet-smelling thatch roof, with mountain views and a private balcony. These rooms are decorated in a more contemporary, provencal style.
Continue reading " Klippe Rivier Country House in Swellendam, South Africa" »
Leaving Knysna and those delicious oysters behind, the drive continued along the 80-mile stretch of the Garden Route to Storms River for two nights and our next lodge. Armagh Lodge is located just at the edge of Tsitsikamma Forest with beautiful mountain views.
The purpose of this overnight stop was to hike a small portion of the famous Otter Trail along the coastline. The entire length of the 42 km/26 mile Otter Trail begins at Storms River Mouth, ends at Nature's Valley, takes five days and is considered "Difficult." It is a coastal walk crossing rivers with a variety of bird and animal life and magnificent views over the ocean. ...View image...
Continue reading "Tsitsikamma National Park, South Africa and The Otter Trail" »
Knysna is one of the Southern Cape coast's best known holiday destinations. A charming little town with cliffs guarding the mouth of the lagoon which connects the estuary with the sea. The Knysna Lagoon supports a oyster hatchery and the Knysna oysters are considered some the tastiest in the world. We hunkered down in the Knysna Oyster Company Restaurant and proceeded to slurp down a fast dozen delicious oysters with a crisp glass of white wine overlooking the waterfront views of Knysna Heads.
ex-Marine and I happen to love oysters and still tell stories about the days when Bob Chinn's Crabhouse in Wheeling, Illinois had an early bird special with "All You Can Eat Oysters" for a few dollars. It was nothing for us to knock off two dozen oysters each and take dinner home in a doggie bag. Those"All You Can Eat Oysters" days are gone forever!
Continue reading "Knysna Oysters on The Garden Route, South Africa" »
From the battlefields of Islandlwana and Rorke's Drift, one last stop to the Ondini Historical Reserve. King Getshwayo chose to build his military capital, Ondini, not far from his father's capital, KwaNodwengu. Short version - Ondini was burned by the British after the battle of Ulundi and King Getshwayo taken into exile.
An archaeological investigation of Ondini uncovered the remains and the Royal area of the site has been reconstructed and declared a historical reserve and monument. The Royal Quarters includes "beehive-style" houses (isigodlo) for the Royal family, and there is also an interpretative center, stadium, picnic sites, tourist accommodation and a cultural museum in the complex. The houses are usually laid out in a circle, constructed of thatch covering a wooden strips framework and were both roomy and cool inside.
Continue reading "Ondini Historical Reserve, Durban and Knysna, South Africa" »
Dr. John Turner, our Zulu history expert, proved once and for all that history does not have to be boring. The group drove to the Isandlwana battle site site first where John handed out umbrellas for everyone, sat us down on the side of a mountain facing Isandlwana, and then proceeded to relate the historic events that took place over a two-day period, January 22 and 23, 1879
It wasn't until 1820 that the great warrior Zulu King Shaka united the region under his authority and military power. Before that the Makhosini Valley was divided into small chiefdoms or kingdoms. The Battle of Isandlwana on January 22, 1879 was the first major encounter between the British Empire and Zulu Kingdom. The "short and dirty" - 20,000 Zulu warriors equipped only with spears and shields annihilated a mixed British/native force armed with modern firearms. Any British soldier in the firing line was slaughtered and approximately 50 Enlisted men and five officers escaped out of 1,300 men while several hundred others fled the battlefield. Isandlwana went down in history as the worst military defeat for Britain at the hands of a colonial force.
Continue reading "Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift Battlefields, South Africa" »
The game viewing portion of this South Africa tour was over and it was time to load up the chartered planes for flights to Ulandi...View image... and Zulu country. The focus here would be learning about British-Zulu history, explore the battlefields and hear about the famous Zulu leader, Shaka Zulu who led his small clan during the early 19th century to become a huge force in southern Africa. It was difficult to leave our floating glass pavilion at Phinda Forest Lodge along with the wonderful staff, and I could have happily razed my existing house in the Chicago area and replaced it with this zen-looking one in its place. Ah me....
Babanango Valley Lodge is another deluxe lodge located in the Makhosini Valley. A revelation when we pulled up to this small, family run lodge and were escorted to one of the four en-suite bedrooms by Dr. John Turner and his wife Meryn. (Babanango Valley Lodge now has nine en-suite bedrooms.) This estate covers 8,000 acres and there is much more to do besides visiting the important Battlefield sites. Birdwatching, walking the trails or just relaxing around the swimming pool. Birders - more than 240 bird species have been recorded in this environment.
Continue reading "Babanango, The Heart of Zulu Country, South Africa" »
Dumazulu Village is a Zulu Cultural Village close to Phinda Forest Lodge. This excursion took place after a game drive one day to to give us an insight into the traditional lifestyle and customs of the Zulu People. The Zulus are renowned for their warrior culture and are the largest South African ethnic group. An estimated 10-11 million people live in the province of Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa and our group was going to delve deeper into Zulu culture with a trip into Ulundi after Phinda Forest Lodge.
Dumazulu...View image... is a traditional village where Zulu residents go on with their daily lives while visitors can watch residents making spears, shields, claypots, doing beadwork, basket weaving, telling fortunes with Sangoma bone throwing and a few spectacular Zulu dances.
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Bush walks on foot are now part of most Safari/Game excursions but not 10 years ago. Pat and rangers escorted us in Chitwa and that was nerve wracking enough (we're wimps...what can I tell you.). Not overly enthused when Pat said today the Phinda ranger was taking us on another bush walk. Too bad nobody photographed the looks on our faces. Up to now, Pat had stressed don't walk to and from the lodges without escorts, cautioned and watched on game drives if one of us had to pee...for that, he and armed rangers would look in all directions and then said, "make it fast and jump back into the 4 x 4"...told us to keep arms and legs in the vehicle at all times...and now he wanted us to walk out there again? 'Tis another puzzlement but I'd trust Pat with my life. Oh yes...I did trust Pat with my life.
One of the many "Pat" stories that he recently shared with us was that this big game hunter is afraid of exactly three things: Killer African bees; the Black Mamba Snake and Cape Buffalos.
- Killer African bees are more likely to attack a perceived threat and attack relentlessly in larger numbers;
- The black mamba is the largest venomous snake in Africa and can strike up to 12 times in a row. One bite from a black mamba can inject enough venom to kill up to 10 grown men; and
Continue reading "Searching for Game on Foot at Phinda Game Reserve, South Africa" »
Phinda Forest Lodge ensures prime game viewing by hand-picking rangers and trackers to ensure close encounters with wildlife are exciting, informative and safe. Comfortable 4 x 4 drive vehicles are modified with open seating completely different from experiences in Kenya where small jeeps or mini-buses are used with open hatches. The open viewing takes a little getting used to when a male lion casually saunters past without even thinking you'd make a tasty snack. As I understand it, the animals don't consider vehicles something to eat or a danger to them.
If you are considering an African safari, a most important fact is: Game Viewing is extremely tiring. You may think, "Sure, sitting on your butt in a vehicle fatiguing? What is she talking about?" Game viewing takes place twice a day, in the very early morning and back out again around 4:00 p.m. The animals spend most of the day lying around in the shade doing nothing. Early morning and evening is when they rouse themselves to hunt.
Continue reading "Game viewing at Phinda Forest Lodge Game Reserve, South Africa" »
Phinda Forest Lodge is without exception one of the most incredibly beautiful places I've ever stayed at. Fortunately, our "Adventuring in South Africa" tour was all-inclusive and I never saw the cost to stay at Phinda. If we were booking a "hotel" on our own...and how can I possibly call Phinda a "hotel"...we probably would have fainted on the spot from sticker shock.
Our two chartered small planes loaded up the eight of us, luggage and off we flew from Sabi Sand into Maputaland and a private airstrip. Piled into the open 4 x 4 vehicles and headed into the gated and private Phinda Forest Lodge grounds around dusk with a big sign...View image... in front of our eyes...the area is not fenced off...lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo are to be found in the reserve...poisonous snakes are to be found in the residential area...under no circumstances is a guest to walk in the camp at night unless accompanied by a guard...... There was no way either of us was stepping foot outside after sundown and at mealtimes, we'd telephone down for a guard. Within minutes, a skinny, little man would come to escort us carrying...a flashlight. That was his weapon and I don't know exactly how he was going to protect us with a flashlight but ex-Marine glued himself to the guard's backside trusting that somehow a charging Rhino would get him first...
Continue reading "Phinda Forest Lodge in Zululand, South Africa" »
I've said it before, and will say it again. I am not a devotee of walking through a forest or savannah with carnivores around. Even herbivores like a Rhinoceros or Hippo are man (and lady) -killers. Just mention "bush walk" and watch tough, old, ex-Marine pale under his permanent sun tan even if we are going to be accompanied by an armed ranger and tracker. Or, as our Wilderness Travel itinerary stated...the bush walks will allow us to follow spoor in search of the Big Seven - Lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant, rhino, buffalo and the endangered wild dog.... We did not want to follow a Rhino..
With no choice, even though we are not shy about voicing "impalement by Rhino" concerns, it was off on a Chitwa Chitwa bush walk with ranger...whatever his name was...Pat and group. ex-Marine and I sticking like glue to armed ranger's backside and glancing nervously from side to side and up in the trees. Snakes have been known to fall out of trees and we'd seen that happen in the Thailand countryside (really). We even saw a deadly Black Mamba Snake leap, I kid you not from the road into a tree (when the vehicle nearly ran it over) and disappear into the branches within seconds.
Continue reading "Bushwalking in Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa" »
This morning game drive was filled with African wild dog sightings. At first, I thought..."oh, just more wild dogs"... and then Pat explained that wild dogs are extremely endangered and, again, we were fortunate to see so many of them. There were once around 500,000 African wild dogs roaming the continent in packs of 1,000 or more. Now there are approximately 3,000-5,500 left. The biggest populations are in Tanzania, Botswana and eastern Namibia with smaller packs in the Kruger National Park area.
The wild dog roams large territories and competes with lions and hyenas for the same prey with the exception that they hunt mostly by day. It appears that lions kill wild dogs for sport and don't eat them. They are known as African wild, painted, or Cape hunting dogs and resemble wolves because of their pack-oriented social structure. At both sightings, we came across packs of adults and pups relaxing, playing and totally ignoring us. They looked skinny and half-starved to me but Pat said they are lean, mean fighting machines and always look like that.
Continue reading "The Wild Dogs of South Africa" »
The first night drive continued with sightings of lions and other game while one ranger drove and another perched on the hood of the vehicle tracking scat, spoor and shining a big floodlight on the animals only if they were not actively hunting. Bad, bad to interrupt animals out looking for dinner. Every now and then, the driver would turn the engines off and we'd just sit and listen for a while while the rangers and Pat interpreted the forest and savannah sounds. It is also completely amazing to watch rangers at work. We're sitting in the vehicle with darkness all around and all of a sudden the ranger will say, "There's a lion in the bush about 500 feet ahead of us." What lion? What bush? How in the heck do they pick out these specks hidden in the forest? 'Tis a puzzlement and marvel to watch them work.
A little important game drive etiquette and other information:
- Be quiet or the animals will disappear. Do not call out to anyone.
- Don't wear bright colored clothing. Khaki, beige, browns or any other dull colors to blend in with the surroundings is the way to go.
- Carry your cameras in protective bags and baggies. Don't be like idiot me who carelessly placed a camera on the floor of the vehicle once in Kenya. You've got it...that took care of the mechanism in that camera along with a plentitude of dust.
Continue reading "Game Drives at Chitwa Chitwa Lodge in Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa" »
The Kruger National Park region is one of Africa's premier gameviewing areas along with being one of the most famous wildlife parks in the world. Established in 1898 by Paul Kruger, some claim that Kruger has the wildest variety of animals of any park in Africa. Home to the "big five" - lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino - along with over 130 other species of mammals. A leopard was the only one of the big five never seen by us on other safaris and fingers were crossed that this would be the lucky night.
Our morning charter flight flew us to the Sabi Sand Reserve where open, four-wheel drive vehicles were waiting to drive us to Chitwa Chitwa Private Game Lodge. South Africa was our first experience with open vehicles and ex-Marine and I looked at each other in amazement and questioned Pat. "What would keep the animals from leaping into one and making a meal out of us?" It seems that the vehicle smells mask the human odors and no tourist has ever been munched on yet. Good to know but still...what if I happen to be the first tourist eaten by a lion? Oh well....according to South African gospel, we were not going to be dinner...
Continue reading "Sabi Sand Reserve Bordering Kruger National Park, South Africa" »
There's nothing like flying first class for FREE. Bless those hard to accumulate airline miles! South African Airways had seats that completely reclined, comfy duvets and pillows and we were two very happy airline passengers. Landing in Johannesburg, we found an ATM machine and South African Rands (ZAR) came pouring out. Felt like we hit the jackpot in Las Vegas!
The group was staying at the Oxnead Guest House in Pretoria. Johannesburg, or Jo'Burg, is not considered "safe" and even though it is possible to visit, most people just fly in and out. The Oxnead Guest House was only a 40-minute ride from the airport and situated in a secure and gated community. Checked in and hit the sack for a few hours until the welcome dinner and orientation. The trip roster from Wilderness Travel showed a full trip of 8, Bob and Barbara, John and Judith (all from California), Ginny and Virginia (Florida), along with Steve and myself from Chicago and we were looking forward to meeting everyone.
Continue reading "Adventures in South Africa Began" »
Air? We turned in American Airlines mileage for first-class American Airlines/South African Airways tickets. Flew on American Airlines from Chicago to LaGuardia, New York, transferred over to JFK and the non-stop South African Airways flight to Johannesburg (commonly refered to as Jo-burg). TIP: Try to use miles accumulated on airlines - especially if you can wangle First or Business Class (the only way we can afford to fly in those sections)....
Visas? No South African visa is required for U.S. or U.K. citizens.
Travel Insurance? Some don't buy travel insurance, we always do...just in case. These trips are too expensive to risk losing everything if any problems arise. Contact Travel Guard for insurance needs.
Continue reading "Planning A South Africa Trip" »
Ten years ago, a tour from Wilderness Travel caught my eye called "Adventuring in South Africa." This 18-day wildlife, cultural and moderate hiking adventure would follow the South Africa coastline from Kruger National Park south to Cape Town. Along the way, the itinerary would take in many of South Africa's most interesting and cultural sights. Game viewing in private reserves, the coast of Maputaland, Zululand with a chance to learn something about the Zulu culture, head into the Eastern Cape Province and take day hikes along the Tsitsikamma Otter Trail, wine-tastings, and complete the journey in Cape Town, one of the world's most scenic cities.
What gives ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and myself a good laugh is if you click on this Wilderness Travel link itinerary for "Adventuring in South Africa," our group photograph is still featured on this page.
Continue reading "Adventuring in South Africa" »
A visit to the Penguin Colony at Simon's Point was included in the day trip out to Cape Point. This colony of South African Penguins, also known as Black-footed Penguin or Jackass Penguin, began in 1983 when a pair of penguins were spotted on Boulder's Beach near Simon's Town and they began to lay in 1985. Since then, the colony has grown rapidly and there were 2,350 adult birds in 1997. It wasn't long before Simon's Town had to restrain the birds from wandering through town, destroying gardens, and pooping everywhere by fencing off Cape Peninsula National Park. We've been fortunate enough to see penguins in Patagonia, the Galapagos, and Antarctica and you wouldn't believe how noisy these little guys are, braying like jackasses. It's no wonder that this species was once called "Jackass Penguins."
Cape Peninsula National Park has boardwalks that lead over the dunes and vegetation and winds through these raucous penguins for great viewing. The penguins are completely unafraid of people and we were advised not to get too close as they bite.
Continue reading "Visit The South African Penguin Colony at Simon's Town" »
Cape Point is part of the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve situated at the junction of two of earth's most contrasting water masses - the cold Benguela current on the West Coast and the warm Agulhas current on the East Coast. I had always thought (like most people) that the the Cape of Good Hope was the meeting point of the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans. Wrong. The Indian Ocean joins the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point of Africa.
There is a visitors center, refreshment and restaurant facilities, souvenir shops, and numerous walks and trails to spectacular viewing points. The reserve is open November to April and closes at Sunset. The easy way to take in both sights would be to join an organized Peninsula tour. This organized tour was part of our South Africa journey and we spent a few hours walking the trails and admiring the views.
Continue reading "Cape Point, South Africa and The Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve" »
Table Mountain is Cape Town's icon, easily seen from almost anywhere in the Cape Town area when the distinctive flat top isn't covered in a thick layer of clouds. It is flanked by Devil's Peak to the east, Lion's head and Signal Hill to the west, and Karbonkelberg to the southwest. The top of Table Mountain is a flat-topped plateau overlooking Cape Town, and on a clear day, The Twelve Apostles standing along the Atlantic Coast are visible.
Double check conditions before you hike up or take the cable car or you'll see nothing! Operating times depend on the weather and the day we visited, our cable car...View image... was the last one down when bad weather came in.
Signal Hill is across the road with no lines and no fees. The locals walk up and down the mountain at night during a full moon. It's about 90 minutes each way and sounded like fun but don't go unless you are with a lot of people. Both Signal Hill and Table Mountain is a place where muggings occur. There is police surveillance during peak periods but why take a chance. Hikers are advised to travel in groups of at least four, leave valuables at home and carry a cell phone.
Continue reading "Use The Cable Car or Hike Up Table Mountain, Cape Town, South Africa" »
We never felt threatened or unsafe walking around Cape Town's City Center by day or night and often made the one to two mile walk from our guesthouse down to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. Walden House was in the Tamboerskloof neighborhood right off a road leading to Signal Hill in one direction and passing Lion's Head the base of the Table Mountain Cable Way in the other direction. Heading down main Kloof Nek Road, the route passed through Bo-Kaap and the City Center. The famous Mount Nelson Hotel was also within walking distance. The *****Mount Nelson Hotel dates from 1899 and was designed to attract wealthy travelers. With a room rate of over $1,000 U.S. a night, I would say it still does.
Bo-Kaap is a small neighborhood with cobblestone streets, mosques and colorful homes also known as the Malay Quarter. This Quarter is one of the most historically interesting parts of Cape Town. It was settled by European and Muslim slaves before 1840 and many of the old houses have been restored and colorfully painted. The Bo-Kaap Museum is furnished as a Muslim house of the 19th century and documents the history of the Cape Malays.
Continue reading "Exploring Cape Town's City Center, South Africa" »
Robben Island was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999. Known around the world as the prison complex that Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years incarcerated here, I didn't know that it was both possible to book ahead and advisable to book ahead. No...not advisable...mandatory in high season.
The tour includes a return trip across Table Bay (it's 11 km/6 miles across the choppy, ice-cold waters of the Atlantic to Robben Island and seasickness is a definite possibility), a visit to the Maximum Security Prison, interaction with an ex-political prisoner and a 45 minute bus tour with a guide providing commentary. If you take a look at the Robben Island link above and the "book tickets in advance page", you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. Sold out...sold out...sold out...
Continue reading "Advice For Visiting Robben Island, Cape Town, South Africa" »
The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront dates back to 1860 when Queen Victoria's second son, tipped the first rock for construction on Cape Town's original breakwater. There are two basins. The original Alfred Basin couldn't handle shipping volumes and, subsequently, the Victoria Basin was built. You can get to the Waterfront by car, Waterfront Bus or the Waterfront Shuttle operates daily between the Waterfront, Airport, Table Mountain Cableway and city center.
Stop at the Visitors Center and Information Kiosks between before anything for gift vouchers, maps, tours (by appointment) and accommodation bookings. Prepare to spend the entire day shopping, eating, sitting in the sun, walking along the waterfront and/or drinking a delicious glass of South African wine.
Continue reading "Cape Town's Victoria & Alfred Waterfront - South Africa" »
Of all the countries and cities in Africa to visit, Cape Town ranks at the top. It's been our pleasure to spend time in Cape Town on two different occasions. Once, after an in-depth South African trip and the second, flying to and from Namibia. A big incentive is the very strong dollar against the South African Rand (ZAR), about 10.25 right now, Your money will go a l...o...n...g way! Cape Town also happens to be one of the world's most beautiful cities with great infrastructure and fabulous beaches. Mid-January to April is a great time to visit during the Northern Hemisphere Winter with midday temperatures in the 70's and lots of sunshine.
Central Cape Town is known as the City Bowl and shuttles link downtown with Table Mountain, the Waterfront and Sea Point. Or, rent a car and make excursions to the Winelands. There are also guided tours that range from city walks, boat rides, scenic flights, visits to wineries, and mountain hikes. Let's not forget excellent cuisine and renowned South African wines... Yum...I'm ready to return...
Continue reading "Visiting Gorgeous Cape Town, South Africa" »
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