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Best travel advice to save money and have fun on any budget!
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An African safari is not only for the rich and famous. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I are proof of that. If you've got the money and want to stay at the $500 to $1,000 a person a night luxury lodges, I say go for it. But if you happen to fall into the majority of travelers who are looking to save money and still travel, here are a few suggestions along with the links to each:
In the extremely adventurous and budget category, take a look at African Trails. They use converted Overland Adventure trucks that carry up to 30 people comfortably with fuel, food and water. Prepare to help cook, camp and live with no frills. That includes cold showers at times. Beaverline Safaris also caters to backpackers and campers. And, there is nothing to stop you from doing it yourself by renting a car and staying in National Park lodges (advisable in South Africa only). I have not used either of these organizers and don't drive around Africa, but I've been told that it is easy to do.
Continue reading "Looking For An African Trip This Winter?" »
NOW - Desert adventures in the Sinai desert are easy to book and you can be assured of enough to eat. No more stale bread, fighting over tins/cans of food with ample places to replenish the food stores. You can:
- Do it as you go and book day tours from Sharm el Sheikh, Dahab, Eilat or any of the towns along the Sinai coast.
- Contact one of the many tour operators on the internet for a package. Select Egypt has a 9 day/8 night, Desert Ecotours, Neot Hakikar (e-mail them at: neot@hotmail.com, and click on the Adventure Finder on the left of this page to browse Adventure Center's Egypt trips (all beginning in Cairo).
Continue reading "Sheila's Fast and Easy Sinai Peninsula in Egypt" »
It was pitch black when the group assembled at 4:00 a.m., and stood shivering in the cold. Off we went on the Steps of Penitence (also called the Path of Moses), one step after another on the first of the nearly 4,000 steps (I did try to count but kept forgetting what number step I was on), onwards and upwards hoping for an epiphany. Was God going to appear in the form of a burning bush? Enlighten any of us? Perform a small miracle? I'm not trying to be funny. After all, we were supposedly climbing in the footsteps of Moses and Mount Sinai is a sacred place for Muslims, Christians and Jews with a small chapel at the top constructed on the ruins of an older 16th-century church.
Step after step, quadriceps burning, through a natural amphitheater and occasional stops for big breaths, all the way to the top of Mount Sinai in time for the fabled sunrise over the mountains and Sinai Desert. I could lie and report that ex-Marine and I did feel an other-worldly, spiritual feeling on top of the Mount Sinai's 7,498-foot peak but we felt nothing but relief that the climb was over and hunger pangs!
Continue reading "An Early Morning Climb Up Mount Sinai" »
THEN - Before we got into a few verses of "...Let my people go..." on Mount Sinai (Jebel Musa) itself, the group checked in to what we referred to as the "Sinai Hilton", a campground close to St. Catherine's Monastery and at the base of Mount Sinai. The campground consisted of a large open area protected by the mountains from the wind and blowing sand. Sleeping quarters were large square rock walls with a white canvas, tented roof while the inside had rows of clean and nice sized cots with blankets for the cold night ahead. Everyone slept inside. The Bedouins, drivers, guides, our group - the only tourists in the Sinai Desert - and only a few local camels stayed outside.
NOW - Thousands of travelers come on a daily basis to climb Mount Sinai on a day trip from either Dahab (2 hours away) or Sharm el-Sheikh (3 hours away) on the coast. It should properly be called a night trip since the drive and hike takes place at night to view the sunrise from the top of Mount Sinai. Almost anyone can attempt and complete the climb. There are two ways up and if you poop out at the half way mark, there are plenty of Bedouins waiting with their camels that would be happy to give you a ride to the top for the right price. This was definitely not available in 1984 but even if it had been, there is no way I'd get on top of a swaying camel with big drop offs on all sides of the mountain. Give me feet any day...
Continue reading "Bedding Down at The Foot of Mount Sinai in Egypt" »
St. Catherine's Monastery isn't always open to visit but it was today. It is Greek Orthodox and a UNESCO World Heritage Site built on what is reputed to be the site of the Old Testament Burning Bush. St. St. Catherine's Monastery was constructed in 330 AD and has very rare manuscripts and icons within. UNESCO calles it ...the oldest working Christian monastery in the world.
The monastery encloses the Chapel of the Burning Bush, ...that burned with fire, and was not consumed..., and the living bush on the grounds is "supposed" to be the original. (That...is very difficult to believe.) There is a very long story about St. Catherine who the Chapel is named after, but the pithy part is what I like best (I have a sick sense of humor). St. Catherine was initially sentenced to death on the wheel for conversions. However, when this failed to kill her, she was beheaded. If that had failed to kill her (think...nearly headless Nick in "Harry Potter"). What would they have tried next? There is a monastery in Rouen that claims to house Catherine's fingers and wouldn't you like to know exactly how many churches, temples and monasteries around the world claim to have "relics" (fingers, toes, hair...) from different saints... Shall we ask "Yahoo"?
Continue reading "St. Catherine's Monastery in The Sinai Desert, Egypt" »
After lunch in Nuweiba, the convoy carried on inland to the first camp, on the way to St. Catherine's Monastery, tomorrow's destination. What can I tell you about my first camping experience? I thought it was exciting. After all, it was only the first night. The guides made a huge fire and set to work concocting dinner. More bread, tomatoes, salami, hot soup, cans (tins) of fruits and vegetables, chicken and wine.
While they worked on this, ex-Marine and I unrolled the sleeping bags in the sand, changed into long sleeves, sweat pants and climbed in for a fast nap until dinner. We had flown directly from the United States to Israel via Amsterdam and had severe jet lag. Soup on, the guide woke us for dinner and after dinner, the entire group hunkered down around the camp fire for introductions and games, Each person was asked to stand, tell a little about themselves and why they signed up for the Sinai Desert Adventure. Great reasons, interesting backgrounds but need I say that when ex-Marine (never one to pull punches) got his turn, guides and group were momentarily at a loss for words when he stood, abruptly said, "I carry Sheila's bags" and sat back down. He was not happy...
Continue reading "Camping in The Sinai Desert of Egypt" »
Neot Hakikar is a tour company founded by Israeli settlers in 1961 who began running trips to the Sinai in 1967, after Israel captured the area of land between the Gulf of Suez and the Red Sea's Gulf of Aqaba during the Six-Day War. When Israel ceded the Sinai back to Egypt as a result of the peace treaty, they joined forces with Jabaliya (the Arabic word for highlanders and the name of the Bedouin tribe that lives in the High Range of the Sinai) and merged. Their main office is in Tel Aviv, 67 Ben Yehuda Street
, and can be reached by e-mail at: neot@hotmail.com.
Neot Hakikar's packing list specified: a daypack, good walking shoes and sandals, shorts and t-shirts for day, warmer gear for night (it gets very cold in the desert at night), water canteens or bottles, flashlight, sun hat, sunglasses, suntan cream, lip balm, bathing suit and towel, etc. We were too naive (or dumb) in the early stages of travel to even consider bringing extra munchies just in case...
Continue reading "The Sinai Desert Adventure in Egypt Began in Jerusalem, Israel" »
Israel began taking tourists into the Sinai Desert in 1967 after they captured this triangle of land between the Gulf of Suez and the Gulf of Aqaba during the Six-Day War. Egypt regained control of their territory in 1982 as a result of the peace treaty with Israel and just two short years later, a brochure came in the mail describing an "Adventure Tour in the Sinai."
Tourist infrastructure has grown by light years since that 1984 trip into the deserted Sinai Peninsula. The Red Sea area has become a mecca for divers and snorkelers from around the world with major resorts in Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, El Gouna, Taba, Hurghada and Makadai Bay offering holiday activities, luxury accommodation and restaurants. Sharm el-Sheikh is the most popular area with divers and tourists because of the huge drop-offs, wrecks and around 28 sites located along the coast that are easily reached by boat.
Continue reading "Exploring The Sinai Desert of Egypt in 1984" »
The e-mails from South African, Thea, just keep on coming. Each more unbelievable and outlandish than the other and she really should really have her own "adventure/reality series." These are just a few of Thea's (paraphrased) notes from the Democratic Republic of Congo:
..."There are some things in the Congo that I just cannot understand....
- A man carrying a string of beautiful birds hanging upside down and half dead...
- Over 100 cattle were blasted to pieces with handgrenades and machine guns, because the people believed that the Rwandans were cows in disguise...
- A little old lady brought a stork into the zoo and asked if they would please look after it since the witch doctor had turned her husband into a stork...
Continue reading "Thea, from South Africa. A Gutsy Woman Who Travels - Notes from the Congo" »
Stories, problems, mishaps while traveling are usually funny, rather than tragic only in hindsight. Ah yes. Here are a very few of the more laughable incidents during years and years of travel:
- Hiking through the pastures of Switzerland, big, healthy-looking cows roam freely. After all, this is their territory. No worries until the day we were hiking uphill on a steep incline and a herd of cows picked up speed coming downhill, right at us. Where do you run? To the left? To the right? We stood there in horror with visions of a major cow-flattening when they fortunately swerved. Wheew...another accident adverted.
Continue reading "There's A Bat in My Tent... A Few Tales From the Road" »
For once, you don't have to sit through..."why didn't we do this...why didn't we do that...I hated this hotel, etc...." The "Adventuring in South Africa" tour put together by Wilderness Travel was as close to perfection any trip could possibly be.
- The South African game reserves and animals sightings were fantastic. You are almost 100 percent guaranteed to see all of the Big Five in these private reserves;
- Incredible and over the top (to my unsophisticated thinking) luxury hotels. If our hotels weren't luxurious enough for you, there are camps in South Africa where individual accommodations are the size of small houses with your own swimming pool, etc. if you so choose;
- Food and wine is excellent throughout South Africa; and
Continue reading "Visiting South Africa in Hindsight" »
Whether or not you are an oenophile (wine connoisseur), semi-knowledgable about what you are drinking or classify wine as red, white or rose (like ex-Marine and myself), Stellenbosch and Constantia are the great wine routes in South Africa. Stellenbosch was founded in 1679 and it wasn't long before the perfect climate helped Stellenbosch become synonymous with high quality award wines.
The Stellenbosch Wine Route is made up of 200 wineries which produce a large variety of red and white wines. Daily wine tasting, cellar tours and sales are offered at most cellars and many of these have restaurant and picnic facilities. Besides wine tasting. there are also many walks in the area ranging from an easy 5.3 km/3 miles to the 17.1 km/10-1/2 mile Panorama Trail. Visit some of the pubs, and cute general stores. One of these is Oom Samie se Winkel (Uncle Samie's Shop) dating from 1904 that sells antiques, confectionary, sweets, jams, furniture and curios to take home. Our big purchase was a wooden, carved wart hog (tusks and all) that we promptly named "Pumba."
Continue reading "Stellenbosch and Constantia Wine Routes in South Africa" »
It was less than 225 kms/140 miles from George to Klippe Rivier Country House in Swellendam heading west to Cape Town and if I thought Phinda Forest Lodge was spectacular, the group nearly fainted upon arrival at Klippe Rivier Country House. I grew up sharing a three-bedroom, one bathroom Chicago apartment with parents, grandparents and two sisters. Who could imagine that people actually lived like this!
Klippe Rivier is a Dutch East India country homestead built circa 1825 and each of the guest bedrooms is named after one of the historic owners The original waenhuis (wagonhouse) and stables were converted into six spacious and luxury bedrooms (luxury is a gross understatement). The three bedrooms downstairs have open fireplaces and walled in herb gardens and are decorated differently. The bedrooms upstairs have a sweet-smelling thatch roof, with mountain views and a private balcony. These rooms are decorated in a more contemporary, provencal style.
Continue reading " Klippe Rivier Country House in Swellendam, South Africa" »
Leaving Knysna and those delicious oysters behind, the drive continued along the 80-mile stretch of the Garden Route to Storms River for two nights and our next lodge. Armagh Lodge is located just at the edge of Tsitsikamma Forest with beautiful mountain views.
The purpose of this overnight stop was to hike a small portion of the famous Otter Trail along the coastline. The entire length of the 42 km/26 mile Otter Trail begins at Storms River Mouth, ends at Nature's Valley, takes five days and is considered "Difficult." It is a coastal walk crossing rivers with a variety of bird and animal life and magnificent views over the ocean. ...View image...
Continue reading "Tsitsikamma National Park, South Africa and The Otter Trail" »
Knysna is one of the Southern Cape coast's best known holiday destinations. A charming little town with cliffs guarding the mouth of the lagoon which connects the estuary with the sea. The Knysna Lagoon supports a oyster hatchery and the Knysna oysters are considered some the tastiest in the world. We hunkered down in the Knysna Oyster Company Restaurant and proceeded to slurp down a fast dozen delicious oysters with a crisp glass of white wine overlooking the waterfront views of Knysna Heads.
ex-Marine and I happen to love oysters and still tell stories about the days when Bob Chinn's Crabhouse in Wheeling, Illinois had an early bird special with "All You Can Eat Oysters" for a few dollars. It was nothing for us to knock off two dozen oysters each and take dinner home in a doggie bag. Those"All You Can Eat Oysters" days are gone forever!
Continue reading "Knysna Oysters on The Garden Route, South Africa" »
From the battlefields of Islandlwana and Rorke's Drift, one last stop to the Ondini Historical Reserve. King Getshwayo chose to build his military capital, Ondini, not far from his father's capital, KwaNodwengu. Short version - Ondini was burned by the British after the battle of Ulundi and King Getshwayo taken into exile.
An archaeological investigation of Ondini uncovered the remains and the Royal area of the site has been reconstructed and declared a historical reserve and monument. The Royal Quarters includes "beehive-style" houses (isigodlo) for the Royal family, and there is also an interpretative center, stadium, picnic sites, tourist accommodation and a cultural museum in the complex. The houses are usually laid out in a circle, constructed of thatch covering a wooden strips framework and were both roomy and cool inside.
Continue reading "Ondini Historical Reserve, Durban and Knysna, South Africa" »
Dr. John Turner, our Zulu history expert, proved once and for all that history does not have to be boring. The group drove to the Isandlwana battle site site first where John handed out umbrellas for everyone, sat us down on the side of a mountain facing Isandlwana, and then proceeded to relate the historic events that took place over a two-day period, January 22 and 23, 1879
It wasn't until 1820 that the great warrior Zulu King Shaka united the region under his authority and military power. Before that the Makhosini Valley was divided into small chiefdoms or kingdoms. The Battle of Isandlwana on January 22, 1879 was the first major encounter between the British Empire and Zulu Kingdom. The "short and dirty" - 20,000 Zulu warriors equipped only with spears and shields annihilated a mixed British/native force armed with modern firearms. Any British soldier in the firing line was slaughtered and approximately 50 Enlisted men and five officers escaped out of 1,300 men while several hundred others fled the battlefield. Isandlwana went down in history as the worst military defeat for Britain at the hands of a colonial force.
Continue reading "Isandlwana and Rorke's Drift Battlefields, South Africa" »
Dumazulu Village is a Zulu Cultural Village close to Phinda Forest Lodge. This excursion took place after a game drive one day to to give us an insight into the traditional lifestyle and customs of the Zulu People. The Zulus are renowned for their warrior culture and are the largest South African ethnic group. An estimated 10-11 million people live in the province of Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa and our group was going to delve deeper into Zulu culture with a trip into Ulundi after Phinda Forest Lodge.
Dumazulu...View image... is a traditional village where Zulu residents go on with their daily lives while visitors can watch residents making spears, shields, claypots, doing beadwork, basket weaving, telling fortunes with Sangoma bone throwing and a few spectacular Zulu dances.
Continue reading "A Visit to Dmazulu Village, South Africa" »
Bush walks on foot are now part of most Safari/Game excursions but not 10 years ago. Pat and rangers escorted us in Chitwa and that was nerve wracking enough (we're wimps...what can I tell you.). Not overly enthused when Pat said today the Phinda ranger was taking us on another bush walk. Too bad nobody photographed the looks on our faces. Up to now, Pat had stressed don't walk to and from the lodges without escorts, cautioned and watched on game drives if one of us had to pee...for that, he and armed rangers would look in all directions and then said, "make it fast and jump back into the 4 x 4"...told us to keep arms and legs in the vehicle at all times...and now he wanted us to walk out there again? 'Tis another puzzlement but I'd trust Pat with my life. Oh yes...I did trust Pat with my life.
One of the many "Pat" stories that he recently shared with us was that this big game hunter is afraid of exactly three things: Killer African bees; the Black Mamba Snake and Cape Buffalos.
- Killer African bees are more likely to attack a perceived threat and attack relentlessly in larger numbers;
- The black mamba is the largest venomous snake in Africa and can strike up to 12 times in a row. One bite from a black mamba can inject enough venom to kill up to 10 grown men; and
Continue reading "Searching for Game on Foot at Phinda Game Reserve, South Africa" »
Phinda Forest Lodge ensures prime game viewing by hand-picking rangers and trackers to ensure close encounters with wildlife are exciting, informative and safe. Comfortable 4 x 4 drive vehicles are modified with open seating completely different from experiences in Kenya where small jeeps or mini-buses are used with open hatches. The open viewing takes a little getting used to when a male lion casually saunters past without even thinking you'd make a tasty snack. As I understand it, the animals don't consider vehicles something to eat or a danger to them.
If you are considering an African safari, a most important fact is: Game Viewing is extremely tiring. You may think, "Sure, sitting on your butt in a vehicle fatiguing? What is she talking about?" Game viewing takes place twice a day, in the very early morning and back out again around 4:00 p.m. The animals spend most of the day lying around in the shade doing nothing. Early morning and evening is when they rouse themselves to hunt.
Continue reading "Game viewing at Phinda Forest Lodge Game Reserve, South Africa" »
Phinda Forest Lodge is without exception one of the most incredibly beautiful places I've ever stayed at. Fortunately, our "Adventuring in South Africa" tour was all-inclusive and I never saw the cost to stay at Phinda. If we were booking a "hotel" on our own...and how can I possibly call Phinda a "hotel"...we probably would have fainted on the spot from sticker shock.
Our two chartered small planes loaded up the eight of us, luggage and off we flew from Sabi Sand into Maputaland and a private airstrip. Piled into the open 4 x 4 vehicles and headed into the gated and private Phinda Forest Lodge grounds around dusk with a big sign...View image... in front of our eyes...the area is not fenced off...lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo are to be found in the reserve...poisonous snakes are to be found in the residential area...under no circumstances is a guest to walk in the camp at night unless accompanied by a guard...... There was no way either of us was stepping foot outside after sundown and at mealtimes, we'd telephone down for a guard. Within minutes, a skinny, little man would come to escort us carrying...a flashlight. That was his weapon and I don't know exactly how he was going to protect us with a flashlight but ex-Marine glued himself to the guard's backside trusting that somehow a charging Rhino would get him first...
Continue reading "Phinda Forest Lodge in Zululand, South Africa" »
I've said it before, and will say it again. I am not a devotee of walking through a forest or savannah with carnivores around. Even herbivores like a Rhinoceros or Hippo are man (and lady) -killers. Just mention "bush walk" and watch tough, old, ex-Marine pale under his permanent sun tan even if we are going to be accompanied by an armed ranger and tracker. Or, as our Wilderness Travel itinerary stated...the bush walks will allow us to follow spoor in search of the Big Seven - Lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant, rhino, buffalo and the endangered wild dog.... We did not want to follow a Rhino..
With no choice, even though we are not shy about voicing "impalement by Rhino" concerns, it was off on a Chitwa Chitwa bush walk with ranger...whatever his name was...Pat and group. ex-Marine and I sticking like glue to armed ranger's backside and glancing nervously from side to side and up in the trees. Snakes have been known to fall out of trees and we'd seen that happen in the Thailand countryside (really). We even saw a deadly Black Mamba Snake leap, I kid you not from the road into a tree (when the vehicle nearly ran it over) and disappear into the branches within seconds.
Continue reading "Bushwalking in Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa" »
This morning game drive was filled with African wild dog sightings. At first, I thought..."oh, just more wild dogs"... and then Pat explained that wild dogs are extremely endangered and, again, we were fortunate to see so many of them. There were once around 500,000 African wild dogs roaming the continent in packs of 1,000 or more. Now there are approximately 3,000-5,500 left. The biggest populations are in Tanzania, Botswana and eastern Namibia with smaller packs in the Kruger National Park area.
The wild dog roams large territories and competes with lions and hyenas for the same prey with the exception that they hunt mostly by day. It appears that lions kill wild dogs for sport and don't eat them. They are known as African wild, painted, or Cape hunting dogs and resemble wolves because of their pack-oriented social structure. At both sightings, we came across packs of adults and pups relaxing, playing and totally ignoring us. They looked skinny and half-starved to me but Pat said they are lean, mean fighting machines and always look like that.
Continue reading "The Wild Dogs of South Africa" »
The first night drive continued with sightings of lions and other game while one ranger drove and another perched on the hood of the vehicle tracking scat, spoor and shining a big floodlight on the animals only if they were not actively hunting. Bad, bad to interrupt animals out looking for dinner. Every now and then, the driver would turn the engines off and we'd just sit and listen for a while while the rangers and Pat interpreted the forest and savannah sounds. It is also completely amazing to watch rangers at work. We're sitting in the vehicle with darkness all around and all of a sudden the ranger will say, "There's a lion in the bush about 500 feet ahead of us." What lion? What bush? How in the heck do they pick out these specks hidden in the forest? 'Tis a puzzlement and marvel to watch them work.
A little important game drive etiquette and other information:
- Be quiet or the animals will disappear. Do not call out to anyone.
- Don't wear bright colored clothing. Khaki, beige, browns or any other dull colors to blend in with the surroundings is the way to go.
- Carry your cameras in protective bags and baggies. Don't be like idiot me who carelessly placed a camera on the floor of the vehicle once in Kenya. You've got it...that took care of the mechanism in that camera along with a plentitude of dust.
Continue reading "Game Drives at Chitwa Chitwa Lodge in Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa" »
The Kruger National Park region is one of Africa's premier gameviewing areas along with being one of the most famous wildlife parks in the world. Established in 1898 by Paul Kruger, some claim that Kruger has the wildest variety of animals of any park in Africa. Home to the "big five" - lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino - along with over 130 other species of mammals. A leopard was the only one of the big five never seen by us on other safaris and fingers were crossed that this would be the lucky night.
Our morning charter flight flew us to the Sabi Sand Reserve where open, four-wheel drive vehicles were waiting to drive us to Chitwa Chitwa Private Game Lodge. South Africa was our first experience with open vehicles and ex-Marine and I looked at each other in amazement and questioned Pat. "What would keep the animals from leaping into one and making a meal out of us?" It seems that the vehicle smells mask the human odors and no tourist has ever been munched on yet. Good to know but still...what if I happen to be the first tourist eaten by a lion? Oh well....according to South African gospel, we were not going to be dinner...
Continue reading "Sabi Sand Reserve Bordering Kruger National Park, South Africa" »
There's nothing like flying first class for FREE. Bless those hard to accumulate airline miles! South African Airways had seats that completely reclined, comfy duvets and pillows and we were two very happy airline passengers. Landing in Johannesburg, we found an ATM machine and South African Rands (ZAR) came pouring out. Felt like we hit the jackpot in Las Vegas!
The group was staying at the Oxnead Guest House in Pretoria. Johannesburg, or Jo'Burg, is not considered "safe" and even though it is possible to visit, most people just fly in and out. The Oxnead Guest House was only a 40-minute ride from the airport and situated in a secure and gated community. Checked in and hit the sack for a few hours until the welcome dinner and orientation. The trip roster from Wilderness Travel showed a full trip of 8, Bob and Barbara, John and Judith (all from California), Ginny and Virginia (Florida), along with Steve and myself from Chicago and we were looking forward to meeting everyone.
Continue reading "Adventures in South Africa Began" »
Air? We turned in American Airlines mileage for first-class American Airlines/South African Airways tickets. Flew on American Airlines from Chicago to LaGuardia, New York, transferred over to JFK and the non-stop South African Airways flight to Johannesburg (commonly refered to as Jo-burg). TIP: Try to use miles accumulated on airlines - especially if you can wangle First or Business Class (the only way we can afford to fly in those sections)....
Visas? No South African visa is required for U.S. or U.K. citizens.
Travel Insurance? Some don't buy travel insurance, we always do...just in case. These trips are too expensive to risk losing everything if any problems arise. Contact Travel Guard for insurance needs.
Continue reading "Planning A South Africa Trip" »
Ten years ago, a tour from Wilderness Travel caught my eye called "Adventuring in South Africa." This 18-day wildlife, cultural and moderate hiking adventure would follow the South Africa coastline from Kruger National Park south to Cape Town. Along the way, the itinerary would take in many of South Africa's most interesting and cultural sights. Game viewing in private reserves, the coast of Maputaland, Zululand with a chance to learn something about the Zulu culture, head into the Eastern Cape Province and take day hikes along the Tsitsikamma Otter Trail, wine-tastings, and complete the journey in Cape Town, one of the world's most scenic cities.
What gives ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and myself a good laugh is if you click on this Wilderness Travel link itinerary for "Adventuring in South Africa," our group photograph is still featured on this page.
Continue reading "Adventuring in South Africa" »
It's no surprise to anyone that browsing and buying are two of my favorite pastimes especially in Africa. There are so many unique and different objects to see and even the familiar come in hundreds of different variations. For example, carved wooden giraffes. The main craft market and all shops had giraffes ranging from a few inches to 20 feet in height. Yes...they will ship that humungo one home for you. Each giraffe had a personality of its own and one adult son had requested a giraffe. Smart person. After seeing personality-plus Mr. Giraffe in Chicago, moans and groans from other adult children over not being smart enough to ask for one. And, we hand carried it home and could have sold it a hundred times over to people on planes and in airports who wanted to buy it off us. It took hours to pick out the perfect giraffe out of the hundreds displayed while ex-Marine went berserk in the background screaming..." pick one...pick any one...and let's get out of here."
Besides bargaining, people were more than happy to trade hats, t-shirts, pens and several people followed us for ages wanting to trade goods for our backpacks and running shoes. We did end of trading for quite a few "Shona" stone sculptures that ended up in pieces even though carefully bubble-wrapped for the trip home. The stone sculptures are very fragile. Don't say you haven't been warned...
Continue reading "Shopping in Downtown Victoria Falls, Zimbabawe" »
The Victoria Falls is one of the greatest natural wonders in the world and is the standard by which I judge all other waterfalls for two main reasons. Victoria Falls is the largest curtain of water in the world; and the Zambezi River drops 100m/300' over a 1.6 km/1 mile wide sheer fault line and creates a cloud of spray that can be seen up to 32 km/20 miles away. We could sit out on the lawn of Elephant Hills Intercontinental Hotel watching the plumes and clouds of spray and listening to the never ending, thunderous roar of the water. Especially dramatic at sunset.
Dr. David Livingstone (the Scottish missionary) was the first European to set eyes on the falls and you can see statues honoring his discovery on both sides of the Falls. He traveled down the Zambezi River by canoe in November 1855, to see the area called "smoke that thunders." In Dr. Livingstone's words......The snow-white sheet seemed like myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction, each of which left behind its nucleus rays of foam."
Continue reading "Viewing Victoria Falls From The Zimbabwe and Zambia Sides" »
I'll just talk about three of the Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe hotels. We investigated two and stayed at one. The number one and most luxurious is the Victoria Falls Hotel, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World established in 1904. The Victoria Falls Hotel is set alongside the Zambezi River in Victoria Falls National Park and even has a private path to the Falls. The Victoria Falls Hotel was the most expensive hotel at the time and we did not stay here but walked through the gardens and hotel. Things have changed tremendously thanks to Mugabe's infrastructure destruction and prices are now considerably lower for a luxury hotel.
Ilala Lodge is privately owned, small and friendly hotel close to the Falls and just beyond the Post Office. The National Park borders the front of property and wild animals often pass through. How true. We walked into Vic Falls one day for shopping and had just missed two elephants that had casually sauntered across the road and disappeared into the bush. You do have to watch out for wild animals even in the busy town...this is their territory, not yours...
Continue reading "Victoria Falls Hotels and Sundowner Cruises, Zimbabwe" »
Zimbabwe was one of Africa's favourite safari destinations up until early in 2000 when Mugabe took control and sent his nation not only into a downward spiral but also killed off tourism. There are regular travel advisories against visiting Zim but keep in mind that zero tourists in the last 8 years of trouble in Zimbabwe have been affected. That being said, I personally wouldn't travel throughout Zimbabwe but visiting the incredible Victoria Falls is certainly still viable. Still easy to get in and out from other African nations. British Airways, South African Airways, Nationwide, Air Zambia and Air Zimbabwe are a few of the choices and it's only 1-1/2 hours from Johannesburg to Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls is one of Africa's major tourist attractions, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the falls shared between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Each country has a national park to protect Victoria Falls and a town. Mosi-oa-Tunya The Smoke That Thunders National Park and the town of Livingstone in Zambia. Victoria Falls National Park and the town of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.
Continue reading "Visit Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe" »
Morocco is an extremely popular destination, perceived as a "safe country without any problems" and you can be fairly certain that there won't be any. Besides that, Morocco is clean, efficient and easy to get around. A few suggestions:
- Head south towards the desert area or base yourself in Agadir and take day trips to towns like Ouazazarte, Taroudant and Tafroute;
- Tafroute is located in the heart of the Anti-Atlas. Take time to trek or wander through the scenic boulders, mountains and typical small, mud-bricked villages. Tafroute bears a big resemblance to Arizona;
Continue reading "Sheila's Fast and Easy Morocco" »
A visit to the Penguin Colony at Simon's Point was included in the day trip out to Cape Point. This colony of South African Penguins, also known as Black-footed Penguin or Jackass Penguin, began in 1983 when a pair of penguins were spotted on Boulder's Beach near Simon's Town and they began to lay in 1985. Since then, the colony has grown rapidly and there were 2,350 adult birds in 1997. It wasn't long before Simon's Town had to restrain the birds from wandering through town, destroying gardens, and pooping everywhere by fencing off Cape Peninsula National Park. We've been fortunate enough to see penguins in Patagonia, the Galapagos, and Antarctica and you wouldn't believe how noisy these little guys are, braying like jackasses. It's no wonder that this species was once called "Jackass Penguins."
Cape Peninsula National Park has boardwalks that lead over the dunes and vegetation and winds through these raucous penguins for great viewing. The penguins are completely unafraid of people and we were advised not to get too close as they bite.
Continue reading "Visit The South African Penguin Colony at Simon's Town" »
Cape Point is part of the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve situated at the junction of two of earth's most contrasting water masses - the cold Benguela current on the West Coast and the warm Agulhas current on the East Coast. I had always thought (like most people) that the the Cape of Good Hope was the meeting point of the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans. Wrong. The Indian Ocean joins the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point of Africa.
There is a visitors center, refreshment and restaurant facilities, souvenir shops, and numerous walks and trails to spectacular viewing points. The reserve is open November to April and closes at Sunset. The easy way to take in both sights would be to join an organized Peninsula tour. This organized tour was part of our South Africa journey and we spent a few hours walking the trails and admiring the views.
Continue reading "Cape Point, South Africa and The Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve" »
Table Mountain is Cape Town's icon, easily seen from almost anywhere in the Cape Town area when the distinctive flat top isn't covered in a thick layer of clouds. It is flanked by Devil's Peak to the east, Lion's head and Signal Hill to the west, and Karbonkelberg to the southwest. The top of Table Mountain is a flat-topped plateau overlooking Cape Town, and on a clear day, The Twelve Apostles standing along the Atlantic Coast are visible.
Double check conditions before you hike up or take the cable car or you'll see nothing! Operating times depend on the weather and the day we visited, our cable car...View image... was the last one down when bad weather came in.
Signal Hill is across the road with no lines and no fees. The locals walk up and down the mountain at night during a full moon. It's about 90 minutes each way and sounded like fun but don't go unless you are with a lot of people. Both Signal Hill and Table Mountain is a place where muggings occur. There is police surveillance during peak periods but why take a chance. Hikers are advised to travel in groups of at least four, leave valuables at home and carry a cell phone.
Continue reading "Use The Cable Car or Hike Up Table Mountain, Cape Town, South Africa" »
We never felt threatened or unsafe walking around Cape Town's City Center by day or night and often made the one to two mile walk from our guesthouse down to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. Walden House was in the Tamboerskloof neighborhood right off a road leading to Signal Hill in one direction and passing Lion's Head the base of the Table Mountain Cable Way in the other direction. Heading down main Kloof Nek Road, the route passed through Bo-Kaap and the City Center. The famous Mount Nelson Hotel was also within walking distance. The *****Mount Nelson Hotel dates from 1899 and was designed to attract wealthy travelers. With a room rate of over $1,000 U.S. a night, I would say it still does.
Bo-Kaap is a small neighborhood with cobblestone streets, mosques and colorful homes also known as the Malay Quarter. This Quarter is one of the most historically interesting parts of Cape Town. It was settled by European and Muslim slaves before 1840 and many of the old houses have been restored and colorfully painted. The Bo-Kaap Museum is furnished as a Muslim house of the 19th century and documents the history of the Cape Malays.
Continue reading "Exploring Cape Town's City Center, South Africa" »
Robben Island was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999. Known around the world as the prison complex that Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years incarcerated here, I didn't know that it was both possible to book ahead and advisable to book ahead. No...not advisable...mandatory in high season.
The tour includes a return trip across Table Bay (it's 11 km/6 miles across the choppy, ice-cold waters of the Atlantic to Robben Island and seasickness is a definite possibility), a visit to the Maximum Security Prison, interaction with an ex-political prisoner and a 45 minute bus tour with a guide providing commentary. If you take a look at the Robben Island link above and the "book tickets in advance page", you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. Sold out...sold out...sold out...
Continue reading "Advice For Visiting Robben Island, Cape Town, South Africa" »
The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront dates back to 1860 when Queen Victoria's second son, tipped the first rock for construction on Cape Town's original breakwater. There are two basins. The original Alfred Basin couldn't handle shipping volumes and, subsequently, the Victoria Basin was built. You can get to the Waterfront by car, Waterfront Bus or the Waterfront Shuttle operates daily between the Waterfront, Airport, Table Mountain Cableway and city center.
Stop at the Visitors Center and Information Kiosks between before anything for gift vouchers, maps, tours (by appointment) and accommodation bookings. Prepare to spend the entire day shopping, eating, sitting in the sun, walking along the waterfront and/or drinking a delicious glass of South African wine.
Continue reading "Cape Town's Victoria & Alfred Waterfront - South Africa" »
Of all the countries and cities in Africa to visit, Cape Town ranks at the top. It's been our pleasure to spend time in Cape Town on two different occasions. Once, after an in-depth South African trip and the second, flying to and from Namibia. A big incentive is the very strong dollar against the South African Rand (ZAR), about 10.25 right now, Your money will go a l...o...n...g way! Cape Town also happens to be one of the world's most beautiful cities with great infrastructure and fabulous beaches. Mid-January to April is a great time to visit during the Northern Hemisphere Winter with midday temperatures in the 70's and lots of sunshine.
Central Cape Town is known as the City Bowl and shuttles link downtown with Table Mountain, the Waterfront and Sea Point. Or, rent a car and make excursions to the Winelands. There are also guided tours that range from city walks, boat rides, scenic flights, visits to wineries, and mountain hikes. Let's not forget excellent cuisine and renowned South African wines... Yum...I'm ready to return...
Continue reading "Visiting Gorgeous Cape Town, South Africa" »
Looking for a winter destination that's sunny and warm? West Africa is one of those places where I only recommend group tours to minimize the hassles of traveling the African continent. Yes, you can do it alone if you are extremely adventurous and willing to put up with some needless discomfort like paying bribes. Roberto, owner of Trans Africa, says that's the price you pay to travel in West Africa - knows who to bribe and how much to give. Check out Adventure Center (on the side bar), Intrepid Travel (bookable through Adventure Center), iExplore, GAP Adventures , , Wilderness Travel and Trans Africa. Trans Africa is a reputable company based in West Africa who arranged our West Africa group trips.
You don't visit West Africa for wonderful food, or luxurious hotels, although there are some of both. The popular adage is..." you go to South Africa to see animals and West Africa to see the people"... It is all about tribes and unique experiences. Read past posts on TWS detailing trips to Mali, Burkina Faso (how can you not love a country with a capital named Ouagadougou - "wah-gah-do-goo"), Togo, Benin and Ghana, each and every country completely different. Voodoo, Ashanti funeral rites, festivals, Timbuktu, camping in the vast desert.
Continue reading "Seven Warm Winter Destinations - #6 Easy West Africa" »
An article about hiking to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro appeared in today's Chicago Tribune Travel Section (6/17/2007) and really upset me. The writer, comically, wrote about "the 10 things she learned about climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro."
I'd love to demolish each point she made, for example, "it's okay to be naive"..."climbing Kilimanjaro just sounded like such a hoot"...but I'll settle for plainly stating -- she had absolutely no business setting foot on this mountain!
Continue reading "Hiking on Kilimanjaro, Africa" »
I wish I:
- Had brought more film for my 35mm camera. It was next to impossible to buy more and I seriously underestimated the amount that I could have used. Especially for photographing the gorillas. Even though I'm nowhere close to a professional wildlife photographer, it would have been easy to sqeeze off another two to three rolls of 800 film.
- Had a digital camera that would have taken many photos in rapid sequence. Jan's Canon shot something like 5 shots within seconds, and with all the gorilla movement, it would have been nice to have.
- Had brought more money. We seriously underestimated the amount of U.S. dollars to bring with. Forewarned that it was impossible to cash Travelers Checks, and no place accepted VISA, we still thought there would be an ATM somewhere along the way. So wrong! It cost $120 U.S. just for the Visas to get in and out of Uganda...then there were all the tips for gorilla guides, staff at the tented camps and hotels, drinks (wine and soft drinks), and various Arts and Crafts.
Continue reading "Uganda/Rwanda - Hindsight Is Always 20/20" »
The Nile is considered the longest river on Earth, 4,160 miles, and makes its way to Egypt ending in a large delta that empties into the Mediterranean Sea. John Hanning Speke was the first European to sight Lake Victoria (he named the Lake after Queen Victoria) in 1858. The British explorer was traveling through central Africa searching for the source of the Nile. When seeing this "vast expanse of open water" for the first time, Speke believed that this was the source of the Nile.
This section of the Nile is called the "White Nile" flowing to Khartoum, Sudan where it merges with the "Blue Nile" to form the Nile River. Climate changes and dams are blamed for a huge drop in the level of Lake Victoria - at least six feet in the past three years. The Lake is over 27,000 square miles (about the size of Ireland) and is the greatest of Africa's Great Lakes.
The group got into a little river boat...View image... for our trip up the Nile to view the source and also do some more bird-viewing.
heading to the source by boat
Continue reading "The Source of The Nile, Uganda" »
Back in Entebbe, there was time to finally get on the Internet...View image. About two or three Internet facilities approximately a mile away from The Boma with reasonably fast connections.
Pat suggested a day trip to Jinja, the reputed "Source of The Nile" in Uganda. (Rwanda claims that the Source of The Nile is in their country.) As well as seeing the Nile source, Jinja also had Bujagali Falls and was a quaint, laid-back old town. Everyone but Josh (leaving tonight for New York) thought that was a great idea. Jinja was a little over two hours from Entebbe but we would be forced to travel in and out of congested Kampala one more time.
Jinja map
Continue reading "A Day Trip to Jinja, Uganda" »
We started out of Mburo National Park, driving slowly on the last game drive of this trip. Our "seen animals and birds" list was quite long by now but still no Zebras or Impalas. It was going to be a long driving day back to Kampala (hoping to find an ATM there) and on to Entebbe, staying at The Boma for two last nights.
Joseph calculated that we drove around 650 miles throughout the entire trip, and even though that included some tough, long, driving days, there is no other way to really see a country. There was constantly something to engross us on the road whether it was the colorful people carrying loads on their heads...View image, amazing produce stands, the "Great Mother of all Mud-Holes" or beautiful terrain.
A few minutes away from Mburo Tented Camp, we spotted our first solitary, ordinary Zebra (its name).
ordinary Zebra
Continue reading "From Mburo National Park to Kampala, Uganda" »
Mantana Camp was situated high up on a hillside off the main route from Park Headquarters. Our tented camp was raised on pilings off the ground with wonderful views of Lake Mburo. This Camp had a total of nine double, completely enclosed and screened tents with a veranda to enjoy views of Lake Mburo. ...View image...
After lunch, we drove down to the Lake for a small boat cruise. We hoped to spot Nile Crocodiles, hippos and lots of birds. Because of its close proximity to Kampala, there were quite a few people down by the shoreline, eating and drinking in a small refreshment area, on day trips. The area around also had many Civet Monkeys running around, trying to get into the parked vehicles...
curious Civet Monkey
Continue reading "Cruise on Lake Mburo and Game Viewing, Uganda" »
Destination today? Lake Mburo National Park, the closest savanna reserve to Kampala, and known for dense populations of zebra, wart hog...View image, buffalo, impalas, nile crocodiles, and more herds of hippos. Our home there was going to be Lake Mburo Luxury Tented Camp for one night.
On the ride, Pat filled us in with more bytes of information:
- Nile crocodiles can grow to be 9 feet long and can live to be 100 years old.
- Hippos yawn to show aggression not because they are tired, and can weight more than 7,000 pounds.
- A "boda-boda" is either a motorcycle or bicycle used to carry passengers...similar to taxis and also used to haul goods on the back of them. The word, "boda-boda" originated from "border-to-border." Every time we came to and through a town, lines of boda-bodas were lined up along the road waiting for passengers.
boda-bodas
Continue reading "Heading to Mburo, Uganda" »
A few more facts:
- Uganda is slightly smaller than Oregon while Rwanda is a little smaller than Maryland.
- The Virunga Mountains are separate volcanos and not one chain.
- Dian Fossey established her research center at Karisoke between two volcanic mountain ranges, Karisimbi and Visoke. Sabinyo (partially in Uganda) is the other main volcano that groups of gorllas are tracked on.
Heading back to the Uganda border, we prepared to pay an additional $30 U.S. per person for a new Visa to re-enter. They get you coming...and...going. The one-year old new road (extending from Rwanda to the Uganda border) was not an easy adjustment for the Rwandan people. They considered it a walking roadway for their use only - a place to stand around on, sit in the middle or sell their goods. It took quite a while for them to start moving out of the way when automobiles and trucks started using it.
carrying baskets down the road
Continue reading "On Our Way To Kisoro, Uganda" »
Back at Gorilla Nest with time to sit. Getting up around 5:00am both days and the excitement of gorilla tracking left us exhausted, mentally and physically. We never returned to Gorilla Nest until after 1:00pm in the afternoon and by the time we ate lunch, got cleaned up... View image...and started to repack, the day was almost over. There was a little time to sit on our patio and rehash the gorilla experience. Francois kept telling us all to take "more Silverback photos" but it was the babies that captured our hearts. The interaction, care and love shown by the parents, the baby's huge brown eyes and fluffy little crests of hair just won us over and I couldn't stop babbling.
Tomorrow, we were heading back across the border into Uganda with a one-night stay in Kisoro before going on to Lake Mburo National Park, and Mantana Camp.
very blurred photo of Crested (or Crowned) Cranes outside our room
Continue reading "One Last Evening In Rwanda" »
Gorillas are considered babies until the age of 1, juvenile until the age of 4, adolescents are over 5 years of age, Blackback is a sexually mature of up to 11 years and Silverback is an adult male gorilla, typically more than age 12 (named for his distinctive patch of silver hair). Mountain Gorillas actually fall under the Eastern Gorilla sub-species. How do you tell one gorilla from another? Like humans, they have individual fingerprints but researchers look at their noses. No two gorilla noses are alike! The researchers take close-up photos of each gorilla's face to help identify individuals
Gorillas are peaceful, family-oriented, plant-eating animals and the largest of the primates. We could vouch for all of the above...or they never would have allowed us to get anywhere near them...
group and gorillas
Continue reading "More Time With The Hirwa Gorillas in Rwanda" »
How do the trackers know where the gorillas are? Gorillas are basically very lazy. They go to sleep around 5:00pm and wake up around 8:00am in the morning. That's when they start moving, eating for hours, take some naps, eat some more and go back to sleep. (Sounds like a good life to me.) There are trackers for each individual group that stay with them all day until the gorillas are fast asleep. Then, the tracker runs down the mountain, goes to sleep and runs back up the mountain before the gorillas wake up in the morning. He stays with them and in constant walkie-talkie range with the guides who then lead the groups directly to them.
There were different gorilla statistics posted back at Park Headquarters. The United States was #1, and Britain #2 in the amount of people who visited the gorillas in September, 2006. High season runs from May to October and low season, from January to April. However, you are on the equator and there is little variance in the temperature and amounts of rain. Our gorilla permits were $375 per person for a one-hour visit, increasing to $500 in 2007.
gorilla statistics
Continue reading "The Rwanda Hirwa Mountain Gorillas" »
Gorillas share 95% of our genes and are susceptible to the same viruses as us. Francois filled us in on even more details:
- In the entire world, there are approximately 625 gorillas in the wild, entirely in Rwanda, Uganda and the Congo.
- Females have the same gestation period as humans - 9 months, and usually have one baby.
- They are four to five feet tall. Males can weigh up 600 pounds, and Females weigh in at a a dainty 480 pounds.
- Gorillas eat about 60 pounds of food a day and are vegetarians. It takes a lot of bamboo and nettles to weigh 60 pounds.
munching on lots of bamboo stalks
Continue reading "More Time With The Amahoro Gorillas of Rwanda" »
Now it was getting serious. Through the bamboo forest, stinging nettles, narrow, muddy, slippery trails...holding on to bamboos trying not to fall...watching out for vines that would get entangled around our legs...one after anothe in single file...with ex-Marine and myself in the front (I guess we were the oldest). It was around 8:15am when we crossed over the lava wall and started a strenous uphill. Almost everyone in the group took turns sliding and falling on our rear ends in the mud.
Through all this, Francois was constantly on the "walkie-talkies" with the trackers getting Amahoro location updates. It took two-hours before we came to a semi-clearing where the trackers were waiting for us. Dropped our daypacks and sticks in a pile and left them behind with a ranger, porters and guards. Walked for a few minutes and there one was!! Our first wild gorilla...
Gorilla sitting in the shrubs
Continue reading "At Last - The Rwanda Amahoro Gorillas" »
This long awaited day had finally arrived and we were nervous and excited. Dressed in a lightweight fleece top, long pants, gaiters and boots, we were ready to eat breakfast and leave. Arriving at Volcanoes National Park, everyone was amazed to see the goings-on. Various tour groups, guides, park rangers running around, registering people, drinking coffee, using the bathrooms, locals on the road...View image. Even though I logically knew there was going to be a lot of activity, it hadn't registered until that moment. Up to now, the day was starting out warm and sunny...maybe we wouldn't need our rain jackets...with wonderful views of the volcanos...
one Virunga volcano
Pat came over to Steve (ex-Marine) and myself and asked if we minded being in a different group other than the people we were traveling with. We had no objections and joined a group of Belgiums and two English girls. The Belgium people had come to Rwanda strictly to see the gorillas - flying in and out of Kilgali, Rwanda and this was the 3rd day of gorilla viewing. Big Dian Fossey fans.
people milling around
Continue reading "Rwanda Mountain Gorillas, The Amahoro Group" »
Our first impression of Travelers Rest Hotel? Great food! (You can tell I really travel on my stomach.) Too bad we can't savor it...Pat is so tightly wound that you can almost feel the vibrations coming off him. For good reason. We had to get to the Rwanda border before it closed for the night at 5:00pm. Pat gave the group 15 minutes to rush into a little shop and buy wine to take with across the border ...wine is very expensive in Rwanda.
Back in the 4WD's to the Rwanda border. Customs was a snap. Fill out a form, present it, the Customs Official stamps your passport and there's no Visa fee! I wonder how long it will be before that changes. On a newly constructed, good road, it was only another 45 minutes to Gorilla Nest for two nights. ...View image...
ex-Marine and Joseph at Gorilla Nest
Continue reading "Over The Border Into Rwanda" »
This day should really be called..."The big mudhole day." We knew it was going to be a long ride over not-so-good roads but no one ever expected the sequence of events that followed.
Out of Ishaha Tented Camp, goodbye to my leopard on the prowl, and fabulous tree-climbing lions. No more savannas, instead hilly terrain started to appear with farmed terraces almost to the top of the hills...View image...growing tea, coffee, bananas, pineapple, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, maize, potatoes and much more. The terraces were incredibly steep and I wouldn't have wanted to hike down them in boots, using poles, let alone farm these terraces every day. Beautiful bright red flame trees brightened up all that green...View image...
terraced fields
Continue reading "From Uganda to Rwanda" »
I awoke several times during the night hearing unusual sounds (other than ex-Marine's snoring). The leopard made his rounds and thanks to Pat's detailed explanation and demonstration of leopard vocalization, I was positive it was a leopard I was hearing. The sounds came from right by our tent and even though we were zipped in and secure, my mind started running rampant..."could he rip a hole in the tent and get in?....what if he did get in and was in our inside toilet....and so on" There were also baboons calling to each other across the river. One would hoot and within minutes, you'd hear one hooting back...this went on for quite a while. Then came early morning, and the Weaver Birds started their ruckus...but I didn't come this far to worry about a little lost sleep or, a lot of lost sleep.
At breakfast, the camp staff assured me that, yes, the leopard had made his rounds during the night and left his prints in the dirt!
Continue reading "Tree Climbing Lions of Uganda" »
Queen Elizabeth National Park was originally called the Lake George and Lake Edward Game Reserves and renamed in 1954. There are 10 crater lakes, 10 primate species and 20 predators within the Park boundaries. And we finally arrived at Ishasha Tented Camp...View image. Ishasha has six East African-style luxury tents, again with its own private en suite bathroom and dressing area ...View image
...providing hot water "bush" showers (that means the water bag is on the outside of the tent, filled with hot water by the staff when you request a shower...same as in Ngamba) and the same eco-friendly toilet we had at Ngamba. At least we were all familiar with the operation of the eco-friendly toilet because you are never supposed to step foot out of your tent at night. They also had two outside daytime toilets for our use. ...View image...
Ishasha was beautifully situated...tents spread out in a row on the Ntungwe River (far enough apart for privacy) with many African Weaver birds, hard at work constructing their nests, in the trees lining the River. There was always a possibility of seeing crocs on the sand banks and immediately, a tree on the other side of the Ntungwe filled up with baboons...interested in our arrival. The baboons sat there for hours, moving from branch-to-branch for better views of us.
Our Ishasha Tent
Continue reading "Ishasha Tented Camp, Uganda" »
Breakfast and off to the south end of Queen Elizabeth National Park. The roof covers were flipped open on our 4WD's, all the better for game-viewing during the ride. Today's destination was Ishasha Tented Camp for two nights and Pat filled us in on a few new facts while driving:
- The highest mountain in the Rwenzoris is Margarita at about 15,000 or 16,000 feet.
- Giant Forest Hogs are only found in Queen Elizabeth National Park and each weighs at least 88 pounds.
- Ishasha section of QE Park has both north and south game loops, each one around 12 miles long.
- Crocodiles date back around 150 million years and need to bask in the sun each day to get their temperature up. The largest number of Nile Crocodiles are found in Uganda. They too are endangered because its high-quality skin is made into shoes, handbags, and belts.
Continue reading "Queen Elizabeth Nat'l Park, South and Ishasha, Uganda" »
At one time there were 15,000 Hippos in Lake Edward but a mass slaughter took place during the '60's for meat and there are now approximately 4,000. Eighty percent of Lake Edward is in the DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo). Nile crocodiles were reintroduced into Lake Edward during the '80's. We certainly saw enough Hippos, but now we were on the look-out for other game and birds especially crocs basking on the sandbanks.
The Cape Buffalo is NOT related to the Water Buffalo and Pat threatened to kill the first one of us who referred to them as "water buffalo." A main herd consists of both sexes and all ages with an occasional bachelor herd. The head bull is called the "Boss" (naturally!). It is a very strong animal and has few natural predators. Lions (they weren't any in this part of the park) do kill a buffalo occasionally, but it usually takes more than one lion to bring down a single adult. ex-Marine and I saw three lions guarding their Cape Buffalo kill on our first trip to Kenya. The lions were absolutely exhausted from their efforts and couldn't even get up the energy for a twitch of the tail.
Cape Buffalo, known as one of the "big five" in Africa
Continue reading "Cape Buffalos, Birds and More Mweya in Uganda" »
The first thing everyone needs to get used to in Africa is the length of time it takes to get anything done. Whether it was buying postage stamps - every time we came to a Post Office it was either a Saturday, Sunday or Holiday and closed, or the correct window wasn't open - waiting for meal service (slower than molasses to us "type A" people) - anything. These very friendly people definitely move to their own beat.
A fast check-in at the beautiful Myewa Lodge, filled with lots of tour groups and individual tourists. Every tented camp was stayed in had only 4-6 tents which our group took up. Showed to our rooms, skimmed the Myewa info pack..."please be advised that the Lodge in situated within a National Park...in your own interest and safety, NOT to approach or feed any animals you may encounter"... fat chance of me doing that! Down to order an extremely s...l...o...w... lunch with Pat (almost vibrating now with anxiety,) and group. Slow service but very good food.
Mweya lunch
Continue reading "Cruising on the Kazinga Channel, Uganda" »
An early morning start (what else) toward Queen Elizabeth National Park with today's destination, Mweya Safari Lodge, located on a peninsula within the park. Mweya is a luxury resort (with swimming pool) overlooking the Kazinga Channel that runs between Lake Edward and Lake George. There would be no tented camp tonight - instead a room with unlimited hot water (no filling up the shower bags outside our tents) and flush toilets. What luxury!
Queen Elizabeth National Park flanks both Lakes Edward and George. The melting glacier waters of the Rwenzori Mountains created this vast wetland system and thousands of Hippo populate the lake shorelines. We were spending the first night in the northern portion. This area offers prime grazing to buffalo, elephant, various antelope, wart hogs, etc. Pat was a little concerned that we wouldn't get there in time for a fast lunch and a scheduled two-hour boat cruise on the Kazinga channel, leaving at 3:00pm. This cruise would give us a chance to see Hippos, crocs and some of the over 600 bird species.
Queen Elizabeth Park map
Continue reading "Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda" »
I don't know how long we walked through the underbrush and on the trails but it wasn't easy. Ranger Paul would stop now and then for explanations and show different trees, figs ripening (one of the chimpanzees favorite fruits), lichens, moss and parasites, different flowers. By now the slow rain had stopped, and we soldiered on...still hoping to see more chimpanzees.
Pat Dewil picked up a huge Breadfruit (or Jackfruit) that fell off a tree..very heavy and hard. It is a large, tropical evergreen tree that can grow over 70 feet tall. Breadfruit can weigh more than 10 pounds. While looking up for chimps, we were also nervously watching for one of these Breadfruits to fall and bean us..."death by Breadfruit"... Breadfruit was first collected and distributed during Captain Bligh's voyage on the HMS Bounty. An interesting history for such a big fruit.
this is a one, big Breadfruit
Continue reading "Kibale, Colobus Monkeys and Uganda's Savanna" »
It was raining. Drats. I hate doing anything in the rain let alone tracking wild chimps, but this was going to be our only chance. Anything you ever do involving "game tracking" or "game viewing" means an early morning start and today was no exception. Dressed in long pants, long-sleeved shirts, old hiking boots and carrying a backpack with rain gear, we drove into Kibale National Park.
Registration with the rangers...Pat paid our fees...and we were assigned to Ranger, Paul...in groups of five. Kibale is heavily forested which meant that even though it was raining, we wouldn't get too soaked while hiking. Kibale is also a tropical rain forest which means everything feels constantly damp...and my curly hair was expanding fast and furiously under a baseball hat...
signing in at Kibale National Park
Continue reading "The Wild Chimps of Kibale, Uganda" »
It was an all-day drive to Kibale National Park for a two-night chimp tracking expedition staying at Kibale/Mantana Lodge (a tented camp) just outside of the forest. Kibale National Park protects a population of more than 1,000 wild chimpanzees of which approximately 80 have been habituated to tourist visits. There was a 90% chance of seeing them. Kibale forest also has one of the highest diversity and density of primates in Africa totaling 13 species including: black and white colobus, blue monkey, red tailed monkey, etc.; along with many forest elephants and buffalos. However, they are rarely seen by either visitors or the park rangers.
The two major tribes living around the park are the Batooro and Bakiga and the majority of the park staff as well as Kibale Tented Camp are from these tribes. The community also receives 20% of the park entrance fees for their use.
There was a smooshed Green Mamba snake on the road ...View image...and Josh decided it was a good photo op. He's an Emergency Room Physician so icky things don't bother him...
Josh and Green Mamba
Continue reading "Kibale National Park, Uganda" »
During the night, there was complete silence broken suddenly by....hoo, HOO, HOO...scream, SCREAM, SCREAM...one chimp starting up with another. And as quickly as it started, the screams stopped and everyone went back to sleep. Then, in the early morning, I was awakened by a tree filled with brightly colored Weaver Birds right next to our tent.
These bright yellow and orange birds (also known as weaver finches) got their name because of their elaborately woven nests. Usually, just the male birds weave the nests, starting at the tip of a branch, flying back and forth with twigs, until done. They present the finished product to a prospective female mate, and if she doesn't like it, the male completely destroys that nest and starts all over again. There were huge colonies of weaver birds with many nests hanging from each branch. Very busy, noisy little things...
brightly colored Weaver Birds
Continue reading "More Quality Chimpanzee Time in Uganda" »
You have never heard such a ruckus as the chimpanzees competed for the first bowls of millet porridge. They are fed four times a day with a variety of foodstuffs including fruit and vegetables, but the evening feeding is always porridge, at least several bowls each. The chimps get all their water requirements from the forest during the day and walk down to the lake for drinks.
Chimps are extremely strong. An adult male chimpanzee (around 15 years old) has the strenth of 5 human men so even two-year olds are amazingly strong. If an Alpha male ever escaped, it would be a disaster. The Alpha would probably head for the male trainers to eliminate them, and could easily rip their heads off. Ngamba has had only one chimp ever do "the great escape" ....the forest is surrounded by electrified wire fences and the metal bars are very strong. (You should have heard them rattling them!)
The keepers appeared with huge buckets of porridge and the competition was on...
feed me first
Continue reading "Spending Two Days With The Chimpanzees On Ngamba Island, Uganda" »
We landed on Ngamba and were met by the extremely friendly staff for a fast briefing....View image...and welcome drinks of juice.
Approximately 5,000 chimpanzees are killed by poachers every year for bush meat trade (yes, that means they eat them). As a by-product, the infant chimps are taken alive from the forest and sold as pets throughout the world. Chimpanzees are on the endangered species list and protected by international laws. The chimps we would visit here had endured incredible hardship and terror. They needed lots of care and attention, emotionally and physically, and would have to stay here for their entire lives since they cannot be reintroduced into the wild.
The Chimps share 98.4% of our DNA which makes them closer to humans than gorillas. Highly social animals, they live in communities with a dominant "alpha" male, and are extremely smart. The staff would tell us more later on...
welcome drinks at Ngamba
Continue reading "On Ngamba Island With The Chimps, Uganda" »
Ngamba Island, about 30+ miles away by boat, is located on Lake Victoria south of Entebbe. Of its approximately 100 acres, 98 acres are forested and used by the chimpanzees. It was officially opened to visitors in 1999 and is home to orphaned chimpanzees.
Ngamba Island is a project of the Chimpanzees Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust, and a member of the Jane Goodall Institute Uganda. This project provides orphaned chimps with a secure home to live out their lives. Once chimps are orphaned, it is impossible to return them to their natural habitat and the Island is overcrowded already thanks to poachers who kill the parents and sell the baby chimps as pets or to zoos. As a matter of fact, the female chimps are kept on birth-control to keep the population down on Ngamba!
welcome to Ngamba
Continue reading "Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, Uganda" »
The Boma served breakfast from very early in the morning...a necessity since most international flights arrive in the wee hours. After a semi-leisurely breakfast...View image..., the group was off to start our trip....View image...
First up was a tour of Kampala, only 33 miles away from Entebbe but with horrendous traffic jams getting into, and through, the center of the city. Kampala is built on seven hills (like Rome), 10% of the country's population lives there (over 2 million) and English is the main language.
Continue reading "Tour of Kampala and On To Ngamba Island, Uganda" »
Duffels packed and off to London Heathrow (one of my least favorite airports in the world - until today). Those of you who always fly Business Class can just ignore my ravings. This is for us poor schleppers who usually sit in steerage unless able to shake loose a free Business Class ticket using miles. The British Airways
 flight to Entebbe only had two classes - Business and Economy. Full-recline sleeper seats in Business Class with unusual configuration - one seat facing towards the back of the plane and the adjacent seat facing front....taking off backwards took some getting used to....View image...an easy, enjoyable flight.
Arrival at Heathrow, and the usual haul between terminals (Heathrow has 4!) to Terminal 4, where most British Air flights arrive and depart from. With Business Class boarding passes in hand, we were welcomed into the BA club which includes a Molton Brown Spa...with showers (multiple heads on the wall plus a rain shower) and free MASSAGES! You have your choice of a 20-minute back/neck, facial or foot massage but it's important to make a reservation. Since our flight arrived at the oh-so-lovely hour of 6:00 a.m., it was easy to get a reservation at any time we wanted.
Welcomed into the second level...
BA welcome
Continue reading "British Airways to Uganda" »
Rwanda is a poor country, a little smaller than Maryland, with almost 90% of the population engaged in subsistence farming. It is the most densely populated country in Africa. After the 1994 genocide decimated Rwanda's economy it took many years for the country to stabilize and rehabilitate itself but Rwanda also has done a complete about face and made it a wonderful place to visit. The country is filled with warm, smiling faces and officials who are really glad to see you.
Dian Fossey is almost single-handedly credited with bringing the plight of Rwanda's endangered Mountain Gorillas, their conservation and protection from poachers, to the attention of the world. She was murdered by an unknown assailent in her cabin at the Karisoke Research Center in the Virunga Mountains in 1985, the same mountains we were going to visit. There are only approximately 625 gorillas left in the wild - completely heartbreaking after our visits to observe these awe-inspiring gentle creatures. The world's remaining Mountain and Lowland Gorillas are scattered in three countries: Uganda (Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park), Democratic Republic of Congo (completely unsafe to visit) and Rwanda.
Rwanda map
Continue reading "Rwanda Facts and Planning" »
Uganda's original boundaries were created by Britain but was never colonized because the monarchy system worked so well Britain didn't think it was necessary. Instead, Britain made it a Protectorate and grouped together a wide range of ethnic groups with different politics and culture. Because of these differences, it was not possible to establish a working political community after independence in 1962. Along came the regime (1971-1979) of dictator Idi Amin, a person responsible for the deaths of over 300,000 Ugandans in eight years. This was followed by a guerrilla war and human rights abuses under Milton Obote which claimed at least another 100,000 lives.
Uganda is now a shining example of how economy should be in Africa and how to turn a country around. It has substantial natural resources. Coffee accounts for the bulk of export revenues, and agriculture is the most important part of the economy (Uganda has extremely fertile soil) in this densely populated country. Over 80% of Uganda is subsistence farming.
Continue reading "Uganda Facts and Planning" »
It was 1976 when I first paid serious attention to the East African Country of Uganda. The Entebbe incident, was all over television. A daring rescue mission was performed by Israel to free hostages on the hijacked Air France plane at the Entebbe Airport. The dictatorial regine of Idi Amin was responsible and everyone had heard of him. That removed Uganda from my "must-see places." (A recent must-see thriller is "The Last King of Scotland" about Idi Amin that held me glued to my seat.)
Rwanda was a completely different situation. The first travel operators started running trips to see the Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda (Abercrombie &Kent, comes to mind), perhaps 15 years ago. The gorilla permits were too expensive for ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and myself at that time and then came the Rwanda genocide in 1994. That took care of visting the Mountain Gorillas.
East Africa
Continue reading "Visiting Uganda and Rwanda" »
Our cardinal rule is never ship anything...box it up and take it with you on the plane. If you have to pay overweight, so be it...but don't ship. Based on that, we spent hours concocting boxes using pieces of cardboard, duct tape (a must for us when traveling - we've even used duct tape - or "electrical tape" - to hold husband's hiking boots together when part of a sole separated from the top of one boot), and bubble wrap. The Chief's chair was the biggest and bulkiest and be very glad you weren't there to hear all the profanities ex-Marine was spouting...
At the time we visited, you checked your bags at Accra during the day and then returned in the evening for your flight. Of course, what did the Custom's Inspector want to open? The Chief's chair!! ex-Marine begged, pleaded, groveled and almost cried. The Inspector took pity on us, told the baggage handler to put it through and then immediately said..."do you have a Christmas present for me?" (African for...give me money) We played extremely stupid, wished him a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, and left the airport as quickly as possible.
Continue reading ""The Golden Kingdoms" Revisited - West Africa" »
Ghana's abundant gold deposits were found in the region we drove through on the way to Elmina. We also stopped at Kakum National Park, a protected virgin rain forest that has monkeys, elephants and other African fauna. It has one of the largest remaining rain forest canopies and we viewed the canopy on forest walkways above the ground. But, no elephants.
Elmina itself is a port connected to the sea by a narrow canal. The port was one of the first European settlements in West Africa and is a small fishing village. Elmina's castle, the St. George de la Mina, was built by the Portuguese in 1482 as a trading post, and is the oldest and largest of the early European buildings in West Africa.
Elmina port with St. George's Castle
Continue reading "Elmina and The Slave Trade, Ghana - West Africa" »
Attend a festive Ashanti funeral? This had to be carefully explained to us. The person for whom the funeral was held, actually died some time ago. It could have been years before. The family saves up their money and plans a major send-off when they can afford it.
There are "funeral scouts" who do nothing but smooze around to find out when the next big send-off was being held, where and for whom. The funeral, important to Ashanti culture, is a major social event. The participants dress in accordance with tradition. The immediate relatives dress in red while the others wear black cloth and every piece of gold jewelry their bodies can support. There are many rituals: giving offerings to the spirits of the ancestors, food, drinks and the women perform lively, traditional dances.
The "funeral scout" found a top-of-the-line funeral for us. The former ???? (can't remember but he was a major big-shot) - perhaps you'll recognize his photo.
photo of the deceased
Continue reading "An Ashanti Funeral in Kumasi, Ghana - West Africa" »
On the road to Kumasi, we left our vehicles and made our way up stairs through dilapadated rooms and came out on the second level of a merchant with tons of "stuff" for sale. Burlap bags of trade beads...an entire room with carved chief's chairs in different sizes and stages of disintergration; antique gold weights; bronze figurines from all over Africa...the array was stupifying. The six of us set to immediately...dumping out bags on the floor...examining ...and bargaining. (See some of our "finds" at the end of this entry.) Completely brain-dead from all the power-shopping-decision-making, we continued the drive to Kumasi, second guessing ourselves...."should we have bought the gold weights?....how about the bronze figurine?..." Very exhausting.
A little background information:
- Gold weights were used to weigh gold dust for about five centuries. The first ones were geometric forms, but by the 17th century, forms representing humans, animals, etc., started appearing.
Continue reading "Kumasi, Ghana - West Africa" »
Driving from Wa to Wenchi, we drove along the ancient caravan route that linked the Kumasi region to the Kingdom of Sudan. Gold and kola nuts were carried along this route. Traders imported kol anuts from the forests of Asante for hundreds of years, carried in large, donkey caravans from the middle Volta basin Sudan. Now there is a big business in Cashew Nuts...one of my favorites.
We stopped in one village where there was a local blacksmith and spent time watching him make jewelry and tools (on consignment) for the locals, then sat around in his workshop...listening to tales from the elders...View image...telling a little about ourselves...talking to the family...and getting a picture of their everyday lives. Tip: I always seem to forget to bring postcards of Chicago while traveling to hand out. It's helpful in describing where you live (even though it may be hard for them to comprehend a city looks like that). You may want to remember this since I can't!
local blacksmith
Continue reading "Wa, Wenchi and Kumasi, Ghana - West Africa" »
The Lobi are famous for ceremonial plugs worn in the lips of the women. We saw a few still wearing them but no photos. They too, build fortress-style, mud brick homes, have animist beliefs and still hunt with bows and arrows Very friendly people who played some traditional Lobi music for us.
We then visited a house belonging to the local witch doctor who had died a little while back. Approaching his house, we stopped a respectful distance away and waiting for a family member to invite us in. On top of the house was what looked like a Scarecrow. Supposedly, this Scarecrow was a lookout for the Witch Doctor and told him if anyone was approaching his house.
scarecrow lookout
Continue reading "More Lobi and Another Witch Doctor in Ghana, West Africa" »
Continuing on once again to Wa, capital of Ghana's Upper West Region, a predominantly Muslim area. Since it was Friday, we hoped to see the local people going to the Mosque. Jumu'ah (also known as Friday prayer) is held just after noon.
Wa is the regional capital and the gateway to the Upper West Region from the sout with a number of attractions including the Wa Na's (King's) Palace. It is said to be more than 500 years old. Constructed of traditional materials, the Palace is a blend of Sudanic and Moorish architecture and is beautiful. There was also an old mosque in the village of Nakori. In addition to these ancient Sudanic mosques are modern ones, which are also interesting.
Nakori Mosque
Continue reading "Wa and Lobi People, Ghana, West Africa" »
Moving along, our route followed part of the ancient caravan trail through territory inhabited by the Gurunsi, Dagarti, Talensi and Kassena (a subset of the Gurunsi) ethnic groups. these people all live in communal, fortified villages. The Gurunsi and Kassena people are known for the murals decorating the walls of their mud huts. Most of the smooth-walled, mud-brick homes are covered with geometric artwork created by the village women.
The villages consist of narrow streets with houses grouped together in harmonious round formations. Both the Gurunsi, Talensi and Kassena decorate in a similar fashion.
The Gurunsi/Kassena are famous throughout the world for the beauty of their mural decorations, which adorn the outside their round clay huts. The women are responsible for painting gorgeous frescoes on the walls.
Gurunsi/Talensi decoration
closer details
Continue reading "The Gurunsi, Talensi and Kassena Groups, West Africa" »
The Moba are a group of warriors who still practice the rite of female circumcision. (Owie, that hurts!) They inhabit the north and build their homes of clay, with conical roofs made of straw. A wall surrounds and protects the huts belonging to members of the same family and form small villages spread out over the territory.
But the most important part of this day was Christmas Eve and we would be tenting in the Somba region. On the way back from an excursion to visit a "bracelet village", we passed a young man biking along the road with a turkey hanging by his feet from the bicycle. Turkey! How perfect for Christmas. With that, Roberto and Godfried jumped out of their vehicles and started negotiating and, even though the cook was planning to prepare something else for Christmas dinner, bought the turkey.
This was a great photo op for Godfield ...View image...and ex-Marine...
ex-Marine and turkey
Continue reading "Northern Togo and Ghana's Different Ethnic Groups, West Africa" »
The Somba were also once famous for their nudity but most wear clothes now. They still hunt with bows and arrows and I seriously considering buying some as souvenirs...then thought about the problems going through airport security with a bow and arrows slung over my back...
Their architecture was very unique with castle-like adobe dwellings. the Sombas began to build these fortress-like houses to protect themselves from the slave raid of the Dan-Homey warriors. They are small, round huts with the ground floor reserved for animals. The kitchen in on the next level and then the sleeping level and terrace is on the top.
Somba village
Continue reading "Somba Villages in West Africa" »
A morning hike to visit a clifftop Taneka community with unusual round-roofed dwellings. The highest part of the village was inhabited by the chief fetish priests who dress in goatskins, and their young initiates who were naked except for a band fo goatskin around their neck holding amulets. There was quite a bit of nudity with a fetish priest still dressed only in a simple loincloth sitting there on display, and the women wore only sarongs.
These Taneka may be descendants of a tribe thought to have disappeared about 400 years ago. Both the Tanekas and Sombas still live in traditional ways and "Somba" means "naked" in their local language, but I've got to tell you, an elderly, thin naked priest is not pretty sight! The head priest just sat there, placidly smoking his pipe.
Taneka head priest
Continue reading "The Taneka People and Natitingou, West Africa" »
Abomey is one of Benin's big attractions with painted voodoo fetish temples and remains of former royal palaces. The Dan-Homey empire built magnificcent palaces in Abomey. One is now a museum displaying ritual objects of the court including treasures given by European royalty and merchants. The palace also contained the kings' grand tombs.
There were originally 12 palaces. However, all but two were destroyed by the French army in 1892. The remaining palaces are being restored with the help of UNESCO. Being weak in the history department, I always thought that slavery was initiated by the "White Man" and was surprised to learn that Kingdoms like the Dan-Homey used their powers to be in a constant state of war, thereby allowing a never-ending flow of prisoners for their slave trade! The royal armies also included warrior women. (Go girl!)
Benin map
Continue reading "Abomey, Benin and More Voodoo in West Africa" »
The Gelede masquerade tradition developed in the Ketu region of Yorubaland (present-day western Nigeria). This large-scale festival celebrates the spiritual powers of elderly women, who protect the community's well-being. The masks are specifically made for the celebration (used masks are patched) with elaborate, superstructures, and consist of both human and animal faces. The Gelede dancers are all men, but represent both men and women in their performance.
This ceremony started with the by now, usual routine...arriving at the village (whatever it was called)...View image...getting the group seated...View image...gathering of the entire village in anticipation...and the drummers in position...
drummers
Continue reading "Gelede Fon Mask Festival in West Africa" »
We entered Benin and visited Ganvie, Africa's largest village on stilts. Ganvie is spread across Lac Nokoue with the wood and thatch houses built above the water. When the Dan-Homey kings armies were capturing people in the countryside to sell in the Portuguese slave trade, the people of Ganvie were saved from slavery by the Dan-Homey religious traditions...they were forbidden to attack communities on the water.
The people in this unique fishing village live exclusively from fishing (along with a little tourism), use pirogues (canoes) and have a system of underwater plantings that form fences to trap and breed fish. You can visit by catching a motorized boat or pirogue across the lagoon. ...View image...
fishing on Lac Nokoue
Continue reading "Benin - Ceremonies and Festivals in West Africa" »
Later, we were invited (and you must be invited) to attend a real voodoo ceremony in a local village with dancing and drumming. The village was very serious about this and it was not just a money-making gimmack for the village. The word "voodoo" is traceable to an African word meaning "spirit" and practictioners were taken as slaves to Haiti, still a major center for voodoo. There are different forms of voodoo: Fetishes (items sold in the Togo Voodoo Market, e.g. the dried bats), spirit possession and sacrifices. Today's ceremony would involve spirit possession. The Ewe-speaking people have a strong attachment to animist beliefs even though many of them are Christians.
First Roberto got us settled in the background in the yard of a small compound surrounded by huts while the entire village assembled. The Ewe consider twins especially auspicious and lucky...many bronzes and wood carving show representations of twins...and one woman was nursing her twins at the same time...
waiting for the "spirit possession"
Continue reading "A Voodoo Ceremony in Togo, West Africa" »
Throughout this trip at various border checks, a "money trader" would come on our vehicles carrying bags of money. He would then convert whatever we needed at black market rates. If there were too many military police standing around that hadn't already received their daily graft, Godfried or Roberto would take our $$ and disappear behind a shack...materializing with wads of money. This trip was over Christmas and New Years and the usual comment from police, military or anyone that you wanted something from was..."do you have a Christmas present for me?" This is part of doing business in Africa and Roberto always knew exactly how many CFA's or other cash to give them.
Togo is a small but interesting, French-speaking country. Lome, the capital, is a city of about 800,000, founded by the Eye tribe in the 18th century. Around 1884, the German colonial invasion started the the region became the capital of German Togoland. Lome is small, easy to get around and the ocean is only a few blocks from the center of town.
Continue reading "Togo, Voodoo and A Traditional Healer - West Africa" »
There were only four other persons in our Mountain Travel group beside us. Two others had cancelled for health reasons. (That's why you need travel insurance.)
The trip was officially begun with a morning tour of Accra. The most unusual point of interest was the district of the carpenters in an eastern suburb. They have a thriving business making caskets! Not ordinary caskets, but elaborate colorful caskets in the forms of airplanes, fruits, buildings and animals. The carpenters build to their client's specifications. You decide exactly what kind of personalized coffin to bury your family member in, they can do it in a week. Or decide on one for yourself, hopefully, years before it is needed... If cremation wasn't my choice, something in the shape of a Burger would be right up my alley! What about you?
a nice cow coffin
Continue reading "Accra to Sogakope - West Africa" »
An easy border crossing into Togo, arriving at the Hotel Mercure Sarakawa our destination for two nights. Lome is known for its excellent shopping - far more interesting than seeing its few sights.
A big plus on any trip is a chance to meet and visit with people who actually live in the country and join in their celebrations. Roberto was holding huge baptism ceremony in his home that evening and we were invited. We brought along a little outfit from America as a gift for the baby and had a great time meeting friends and relatives of the family. Roberto's gorgeous wife, and equally beautiful sisters, had concocted a huge feast, and it was a privilege to attend and participate.
Togo map
Continue reading "Time Spent in Lome, Togo - West Africa" »
As usual, a half-dead arrival in Accra, Ghana after marathon hours in the air. Godfried, assistant to Roberto on the main tour, met us at the airport and transfered us to the Novotel. Godfried was also going to be our guide on this extension.
Accra, Ghana's capital (population over two million), was founded around 1500 by the Ga tribe. The Ga began trading with the Portuguese - slaves, gold and palm oil. The Ashanti gained control at the beginning of the 19th century but eventually lost it to the British.
Semi-refreshed the next morning, we drove to Akossombo with its largest man-made lake in the world. The shoreline measures almost 3,100 miles. We visited the hydroelectric dam there which created Lake Volta. The dam provides electricity to Ghana and surrounding West African countries.
Continue reading "Accra to Akossombo, Ghana, West Africa" »
Air? This involved flying to and from Accra, Ghana. We flew Chicago to Frankfurt on United, and used miles for the Frankfurt-Accra portion on Lufthansa. Lufthansa has a superb web of routes all over the world and we've found it to be more cost-effective (especially in the Winter) to buy a ticket to Europe and then use miles for the next leg of the trip. Other airlines: Alitalia, American Airlines, British Airways, Northwest - many choices. (Lowest International airfares Economy Travel
 )
Visas? You need for all three countries including multiple entries for Ghana and Togo. None of these countries let you get visas upon arrival. We used Zierer Visa Service rather than Fedexing back and forth to consulates in Washington, DC, eliminating the entire hassle-factor.
Continue reading "Planning Ghana, Togo and Benin - West Africa" »
After experiencing West Africa's "Timbuktu & Beyond" (read previous articles) with the incomparable Roberto, we were eager for more. And Mountain Travel Sobek had another one in their brochure, "African Golden Kingdoms."
This trip also took place in West Africa, visting the three different and fascinating countries of Ghana, Togo and Benin. A 17-day comprehensive immersion into their tribal worlds with nine nights in hotels and five nights camping. Each departure also included a special festival and ours, over Christmas, 2001, was the Gelede Fon Mask festival in Benin. There is a saying that..."you visit East Africa for the animals, and West Africa to see the people"...and based on Mali, we heartily agree.
Shopping for Adventure? Find books, videos, maps, gifts, and more at the National Geographic Store!
area of West Africa
Continue reading "The "Golden Kingdoms" of West Africa" »
We flew on Tunis Air (a one hour flight) to Djerba, a flat Mediterranean island off the southern coast of Tunisia. It is joined to the mainland by a 6 km causeway built on a Roman foundation. Djerba has more than 145,000 inhabitants (primarily of Berber origin).
The island is covered with palm trees and flowers - actually, it is a huge oasis with more than 1,000,000 date palms and 700,000 olives trees. Some of the olive trees are over 3,000 years old!
In Homer's Odyssey, Djerba was the home of the "Lotus Eaters." Ulysses almost lost his men when the beautiful maidens of the island fed them lotus flowers. I had never read the Odyssey but had heard of Djerba. The islanders like to claim that Ulysses was their first tourist.
Continue reading "Isle of Djerba/Jerba, Tunisia" »
It was now time for the ultimate in Tunisia's Roman sites (other than the El Djem Amphitheatre) - Bulla Regia and Dougga. Dougga, in particular, is an extremely famous Roman site.
Bulla Regia was first mentioned by Latin sources in 81 BC. More than three quarters of the site is still underground and the houses with an underground level is what most visitors come to see. The Bulla houses are the site's distinctive feature - the only city to have two-story dwellings with one floor underground. This feature protected against the heat in the summer and cold in the winter. We climbed down crumbly steps to see the beautiful mosaics still remaining in the underground portions of the houses - one house named "House of the Fisherman." Some of the mosaics have been removed to the Bardo Museum in Tunis. ...View image...
Bulla Regia mosaic
Continue reading "Bulla Regia and Dougga, Tunisia" »
On the drive to and from Le Kef, you could see nomad's tents scattered in the desert. Occasionally, we stopped at scenic view points and walked through little villages - up to some old ruins, into little shops, and other breaks to stretch our legs.
My favorite sight was the morning "goat" round-up. A little girl or boy would walk through the village, stopping at each home to pick up their goats. She (or he) added them to the increasing flock - chasing after wayward goats, walked to the next home and when all goats were accounted for, herded them out to graze for the day. ...View image... A really sensible system of goat-herding since every family we saw had its own flock. In this way, everyone else was free to work in the fields.
Sheila and her flock
Continue reading "Roman Ruins of Sbeitla (Sufetia) and Le Kef, Tunisia" »
Other than shopping, there was an option to go visit another Star Wars village (we didn't go) and a day walk scheduled around Tamerza, almost on the Algerian border. Tamerza was another village situated in a huge valley oasis with lots of palm trees. ... View image...
We hiked up to Mides, a little oasis which owes its fertility to many little mountain streams. The water is tapped by wells and carried through a system of underground channels. Mides is an abandoned village on a cliff face and after exploring it, we walked through a valley - looking for fossils along the stream, enjoying the extremely stark beauty of the canyon, eating a picnic lunch, taking our time and exploring with "Explore."
Mides
views from the mountains
Continue reading "Hiking By The Algerian Border in Tunisia" »
Busing to Tozeur, we came across some young men selling pieces of amethyst at a stand along the road - certainly not gem quality - and I traded my old Timex watch for seven chunks of amethyst as presents for grandchildren. You can always offer to trade something when shopping...one never knows...and watches (this one was $5 from a flea market) are highly desirable. There was another stall selling "sand roses" - a name given to rosette formations of gypsum and barite because they look like roses.
The "sand rose" crystals form in arid sandy conditions, are dug up by the locals and sold all over desert areas of Africa. ...View image... Bought some of those also. I like to bring home souvenirs that are semi-educational and different...not the "...my grandma brought me back a t-shirt..." Fossils, country flags, toys made out of tin cans from Africa, Tibetan prayer flags, coins, etc.
Crossed the Chott El Jerid - the largest salt flats in the Sahara. They told us we could see mirages - and - we could! Very strangely colored salt flats, some with big crystals. ... View image... White, purple and pinks, all reflecting different colors depending on the direction you were looking.
salt flats of Chott El Jerid
Continue reading "Tozeur, Tunisia" »
You may never have heard of "Harissa" before. ( I know I didn't before this trip.) Harissa, is a spicy chili-garlic condiment that is made from oil, garlic cloves, chili paste, cumin, chili powder, and other ingredients and plays an important role in the Tunisian diet.
Continue reading "Eating Harissa in Tunisia" »
Forget the camel trek, we stayed at the comfortable Hotel Saharien-Paradise, in Douz and enjoyed ourselves tremendously. What did we do for two days? Other than sitting by the swimming pool and enjoying the "aloneness" of being by ourselves...
- Shopped for rugs...yes, we bought more...for our adult children. When you can buy a one-of-a-kind, handmade 3 x 5 rug for under $40 dollars, it's hard to resist. A comparable, factory-made bath mat at home costs about the same. Every shop arorund the square had rugs and carpets laid out on the sand, flapping in the wind with the very hospitable dealers and people to converse with.
- Walked out into the desert every day to watch the camels and tourists, having some great laughs at their expense. View image
Mr. Personality
Continue reading "Douz, Tunisia" »
On the way to Zaafrane, we stopped to visit the tiny village of Tamezret. View image This little walled village had very few inhabitants, but we visited the home of one family. The family had a few goats, one mule and several children. (I loved the pink Barbie purse..... View image
....The husband and wife were very hospitable and enjoyed demonstrating grinding and other aspects of their daily life. View image
grinding meal
One of our people (brave man) even tried on this "flea-infested" robe...exactly like Obi's and posed with the family mule/donkey (whatever it is). After seeing this robe, it was obvious where the Star War's designer got his ideas. I later noticed them for sale in the Souks, surprisingly expensive, unfortunately! A fleeting thought ran through my mind about it being a great souvenir for grandchildren until I saw the cost....too bad.
fake Obi-Wan
Continue reading "Zaafrane, Tunisia" »
Matmata is a small village in southern Tunisia -- famous for underground structures still used by some of the local Berbers. The homes were created by digging a large pit and enlarging into artifical caves used as rooms. (Troglodyte means "cave dweller" in Latin...I hadn't even heard of the word until Matmata.) These "invisible villages" were first mentioned in the 4th century and are quite sensible...cool in the summer and warm in the winter. A huge "Matmata" sign is visible on a mountain as you draw nearer. Probably, thanks to the Matmata Tourist Bureau...bring those $$$... View image
If you've seen the famous Star Wars movie (is there anybody who hasn't?), Matmata is instantly recognizable once you are actually there. Most of the pits and craters are camouflaged in the desert surroundings. View image The Hotel Sidi Driss served as Luke's home when he lived with his Aunt and Uncle. Parts of the set are still incorporated in the walls of the Hotel, and our group had drinks there. "...may the force be with you." Sorry, couldn't resist ..and
Star Wars set
everyone had to pose for photos both in and outside of the Hotel Sidi Driss. View image
outside Hotel Sidi Driss
Continue reading "Matmata and its Troglodyte Caves, Tunisia" »
Next stop was El Djem with its unbelievable Amphitheatre second only to Rome's (Colosseum) amphitheatre. It is huge, capable of seating 35,000 spectators (Rome's Colosseum could seat about 45,000), and was probably used for gladiator shows and chariot races. Very. very impressive....sitting on a stone seat...ready to give the "thumbs up" or "thumbs down" signal...envisioning Ben Hur or Spartacus entering the arena. View image
The El Djem Amphitheatre (built around 238 AD), remained fairly intact until the 17th century and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1979.
El Djem Amphitheatre
When built by the Romans, stone was brought from quarries over 30 kms away. The distance doesn't sound like much now but it was a huge feat at that time.
El Djem Amphitheatre
Continue reading "El Djem and Sfax, Tunisia" »
Our Explore group was entirely British with the exception of us "Yanks", and two "Aussies" traveling for three months. Phil and Elizabeth had just come from Libya with Explore, and were going on to Morocco after Tunisia. We inundated them with questions about Libya, and most of their answers (primarily regarding accommodation and food) left us without a desire to see it....yet. In the future, yes.
The on-the-road portion of our tour started in Kairouan, considered the fourth holiest city of Islam - after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. There are two famous mosques in the city, the Mosque of the Barber, and the Great Mosque. View image
courtyard of Mosque
Judaism, also had a long history during the early Middle Ages in Kairouan with many famous and important Rabbis who studied there.
We walked from our Hotel Tunisia through the walled ramparts into Kairouan's famous Souk/Medina with all its traditional crafts. The Souk is surrounded by walls but it was easy to find your way around (one way in, one way out). Kairouan merchants rely on tourism for much of their income and I certainly didn't mind going in and out of every single shop that looked promising. Kairouan will always be remembered as the place I bought rugs #1 and 2.
Continue reading "Kairouan, Tunisia" »
Landed in Tunis and met the Explore group of 14 at Hotel Omrane, walking distance from the Souk/Medina (old market). The Hotel was actually a very nice Hostel located in the heart of the city and in the middle of the business center, a 5-minute walk from the big station of the Tunisian National Railways (S.N.C.F.T.).
Our guide took us on an afternoon walking tour into the Souk. Tunis is a very modern but walking into the Souk immediately transports you into a colorful Arab atmosphere of custom-made perfumes, dim narrow streets that look more like alleys, and lots of shops selling rugs.
Tunis Medina Map
This was my first encounter with Tunisian, Moroccan, Algerian-style rugs - primarily flat weave "Kilims" and I fell in love with the vibrant colors and story each one told. Within days, I was a woman possessed and had embarked on a major carpet buying spree that lasted throughout the trip. (The suitcases just got heavier and heavier.) I rarely saw a carpet that didn't whisper, "Sheila, buy me."
Continue reading "Tunis, Tunisia" »
We picked an Explore departure for March, 2004 thinking the weather would be a little warmer at that time. Tunisia has a Mediterranean climate and winters can be very cold.
Air? It was easiest for us to fly United from Chicago-Frankfurt, and then Frankfurt-Tunis on Lufthansa. Other airlines that fly there with only one stop are: Delta, Air France, American, Alitalia. Plenty of choices but no one flies to Tunis direct from the U.S., you'll have to change planes.
Visa? Not required. Passport only.
Health? Nothing compulsory, but we always keep our Hep A, Polio and Tetanus up-to-date. This would be a "bottled water" trip along with the usual "don't eat off the street."
Continue reading "Making Plans for Tunisia" »
Unique travel destinations always raise the question, "Why do you want to go there?" and Tunisia was no exception. Because....Tunisia has Ancient Carthage, fantastic Dougga, sand dunes, Isle of Jerba, and....
Star Wars was filmed here!
Next question? "Is it safe?" Fellow travelers, we have to get a grip on reality and stop thinking that every Arab or Muslim country is loaded with extremists just waiting to rip our eyeballs out. "ex-Marine" (husband, Steve) and I (of course, he doesn't go around wearing his old fatigues...not that they would fit) have found without exception, the Arabs to be extremely courteous, hospitable people. Perhaps, it is our working vocabulary of four words in Arabic - "hello" - "peace" - "thank you" - and "maybe tomorrow." ("Maybe tomorrow" is the clincher!)
map of Tunisia
Continue reading "Fascinating Tunisia" »
A long drive back through the desert to Timbuktu.... View image....another 4WD carrying goats on the roof heading to market.... View image....our guide making his directional hand motions....one of our drivers veering off to chase a Gazelle (which earned him a screaming, reaming out from a livid Roberto - he could have blown an engine in that heat)....and finally, Timbuktu.
Timbuktu was founded by Tuareg nomads at the end of the 12th century and was the capital of their empire. Before the Niger River shifted and landlocked Timbuktu, it was the meeting point for caravans that crossed the Sahara from North to South. The caravans considered Timbuktu to be both the beginning, and the end of the world.
this, is Timbuktu!
Continue reading "Finally, Timbuktu, Mali - West Africa" »
It was extremely early in the morning when the nomads appeared with our camels. Groaning, the camels folded their bodies to the ground, protesting violently, and the herders sorted out which camel was the right one for each of us. I was very nervous about doing a camel trek and could have ridden in a 4WD but showed some guts and got up on it. Camels are high off the ground and also like to bite! Roberto assured me that I was on a "gentle" camel (yeah, right...if he could have gotten to my leg, a chunk would have been missing). "Ex-Marine" was equally concerned ...View image... and we made our camel herders promise NOT to gallop our camels. Not to worry...they tied each camel to the one in front of it and off we set for our three hour ride to Araouane. Early Bird Sale, Europe from $438* round-trip!
Susan galloped by on her camel... View image... but we just plodded along, up and over dunes, surrounded by sand and the quiet Sahara. Way in the distance, the little town of Araouane appeared.
Araouane
Continue reading "Camel Trek to Araouane, Mali - West Africa" »
Our convoy of several 4WD vehicles, set off into the desert to see the salt caravans. Since the Middle Ages, camel caravans have traveled through the Sahara to Taudenni, 500 miles north of Timbuktu. Salt has been in high demand in West Africa since the 12th century. Each salt block weighs about 66 lbs., and the camel carries 4 salt blocks for an approximate total of 264 lbs. It takes nearly two weeks through the sand dunes, led by an experienced guide. The caravans only move from sunset through the early morning, walking about 50 km. every day.
The Taudenni salt mine was cut out of an ancient seabed and hundreds of men work the mines as indentured slaves. Early Bird Sale, Europe from $438* round-trip!
salt caravan
Continue reading "Into the Sahara Desert of Mali - West Africa" »
Mopti is considered the "Venice of Africa" and was such an interesting town that an extra day here would have been perfect. It consists of three small islands linked by levees. Holidays off the Beaten Track
We had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Niger, watching the small boats pull up, cargo being unloaded and carried on people's heads, huge salt blocks on the embankment that had been brought by boat from Timbuktu , ...View image... sellers shouting up to us and showing their goods. Some of our group bought huge "Fulani Wedding Blankets" and long pieces of dyed blue material (worn by the Berbers/Tuaregs - the "Blue Men of the Desert") to wrap around their heads for the desert journey. Susan warned that the indigo dye was going to bleed all over our bodies until it was washed in some sort of mixture to set the dye...and it did. Blue foreheads for the next few days.
Mopti waterfront
Fishing, and trading in dried fish are important elements of the Mali economy. "Capitaine" fish was served quite often..a delicate, mild tasting fish similar to orange roughy. (I could never get a determination on what "Capitaine" fish really was.)
Continue reading "Mopti and Up The Niger River by Pinasse, Mali - West Africa" »
Djenne was built in the 14th century, on high ground near the Niger, and becomes an island when the Niger floods. It is the oldest known city in sub-Saharan Africa, 220 miles south of Timbuktu (we still had a way to go). The old Town of Djenne and the Great Mosque (the most famous mosque in Mali) were named UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1988. Oh, the Places You Can Go: Round-Trip Flights for $199+ or Less
The Great Mosque is the largest clay building in the world and has three massive towers, with each spire capped by an ostrich egg (ostrich eggs symbolize fertility and purity). We arrived here on a Friday, when the main prayer ceremony of the week is held. ...View image... As soon as the service ended, the plaza filled up with people in their very colorful costumes moving through a permanent cloud of sand.
after prayers in Djenne
Imam leaving Mosque
Continue reading "Djenne on the Niger, Mali - West Africa" »
A hike up and over a Dogon escarpment was a major adventure and undertaking. First, we assembled early in the morning at the base of the mountain for our hike, surrounded by villagers screaming and shouting to Roberto... "Me...me...pick me..." as our guides and porters. It seemed to be massive, but organized, confusion! Roberto assigned one guide for each person in our group. The guide would carry our daypack and make sure that we didn't fall into a gorge or off the mountain. My assigned guide was harangued by Roberto..."take good care of Mama! Do you hear me? Hold her hand...and watch Mama!" (This little man never left my side.)
The "water porter" did the entire route with the case of water bottles on his head. ... View image...
Continue reading "Hiking Over The Dogon Escarpment, Mali - West Africa" »
We roamed through several Dogon villages, learning about their culture. The Dogons are animists and I had to learn what an "animist" is. According to the dictionary - the belief in the existence of individual spirits that inhabit natural objects and phenomena. With this belief of Gods in everything around them, they have elaborate masked dances and male initiation rites in caves painted with different representations. ...View image...
The Dogons grow maize, millet and onions and stock goats and sheep. Each village is dominated by a togu'na, a intricately decorated platform where the men elders talk over village business. It looked cool inside but women are not allowed inside the togu'na...we could just admire the detailed and exquisite carvings from the outside...
Continue reading "Dogon Masked Dance, Mali - West Africa" »
We crossed the Mali border and entered the sandy Dogon lowlands, filled with enormous baobab trees...View image and spiny shrubs. This area has few visitors and the oldest Dogon settlements. The Dogon country is possibly the premier attraction in Mali and the group was excited about the upcoming sights.
Roberto always made sure that our lunch was eaten in whatever shade he could find. And when the only available shade was in between spiny shrubs, one of his driver would take a machete, start hacking away at the trees and create enough space for everyone to eat lunch out of the brutal sun.
Continue reading "Into The Dogon Lowlands, Mali - West Africa" »
Before heading out of town, one last visit to Ouagadougou's "Grande Marches" (market) with its baskets, tie-dyed cloth - the Centre Artisanal with batiks, bronze castings and carvings. Then the street vendors selling Dogon carvings, masks and chairs. Shopping is exhausting when there is almost too much to choose from.
City tour over, we drove to the north, visiting the Mossi people and their giant clay granaries. The Mossi are one of 60 ethnic groups in the country and have the longest royal dynasty, dating back 900 years.
At every stop to stretch our legs, Roberto would run from 4WD to 4WD urging everyone to..."drinka...drinka" (Roberto has a strong Italian accent) and practically forced water down our throats to keep us well-hydrated. The 4WD's carried boxes of bottled water at all times.
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Continue reading "The Mossi People, Burkina Faso - West Africa" »
Many air and land hours later, we landed in Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso, and were met by Roberto Cerea. Roberto and Alberto are the local tour operators for Mountain Travel and operate their own agency (Transafrica) based in Togo. Cheap Flights from Airfares Basement
A brief paragraph on Roberto...then I'll continue raving about him and his organization through the rest of the articles. You would have to search long and hard to find a more personable, warm, caring, organized individual. It was primarily based on our experience with him that we scheduled another trip to West Africa a year later - Ghana, Benin and Togo. The man was tireless in his concern for our group...sometimes I wonder if he ever slept! There was nothing you could ask of him that he wouldn't try to get done.
Roberto, far right
Continue reading "Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso - West Africa" »
There was a lot of planning involved and we used our travel agent to help sort out the myriad details.
Air? This involved flying into Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso and flying out of Bamako, Mali. There was only one suitable airline (for us), Air France who flew into both cities via Paris. Royal Air Maroc is the only other airline we found that flew to both cities, via Casablanca. Not much of a choice on air. Priceline.com Air
Visas? You need for both countries. We used Zierer Visa Service rather than Fedexing back and forth to consulates in Washington, DC.
Continue reading "Planning "Timbuktu & Beyond" - West Africa" »
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