A Walking Tour Through Riga, Latvia
Riga is the geographical center of the three Baltic Republics and has eclectic architecture. Gothic, Roman, Renaissance, Baroque, Classism and Art Nouveau. It is believed to have been founded in 1201 when Bishop Albert moved here. Merchants have lived in Riga since the 11-12th centuries because the Daugava River estuary was a good place for a port. Important German legacies remain from the days of the Crusaders when the Knights of the Sword were sent to convert Baltics who were still "pagans" in the 13th century!
Together with Signe, the group began a walking tour of Riga beginning at The Monument to Freedom with ironic associations. Only a few years after this obelisk was unveiled in 1935, the Soviets annexed Latvia. The travertine column has a copper figure of Liberty lifting three gilded stars at the top.
I'm going to speed through Riga's many sights and tell you about my favorites only.
- Down pedestrian Kalku Lela Street and through the maze of streets leading past St. Johns Church where it is said that two monks were bricked into the southern wall during the construction who wanted to be martyrs. They lived out their lives there fed through the window grate. Doesn't that sound like fun?
- An ad for an upcoming production of Cosi Fan Tutte by Mozart that appears to have the most bizarre staging I've ever come across for an opera. Nurses undressing?
- Through the Convent Courtyard, the location of the first residence of Bishop Albert, the founder of Riga. You enter through a restaurant alley and wouldn't have known the pretty courtyard was there without Signe or another guide.
- The interesting history of the "Cat's House" constructed in 1909 by a man who wasn't admitted to the Great Guild of Tradesmen. To show his displeasure and superiority to them (in other words, he was pissed off), he put wrought iron figures of cats on the building towers with their backs facing the guild halls. It is said the cats cursed their first sculptor who fell fatally ill while putting them up and the Latvian owner refused to turn them around until admitted to the Guild.
- The Brementown Musicians ...View image...on Skamu Lela Street where ex-Marine rubbed the donkey's nose for good luck. (Some say rub the hooves, but Signe said to rub the nose.) Tradition! Remember the story written by brothers Grimm? If not, watch the video below and it will all come back to you. And...
- The women selling Amber on the street. At least they said it was Amber. Take a chance and buy if you're determined but, remember, it may be fake. Even real amber felt very much like plastic to me.
Starving as usual. After all, we did get up before 5:00 a.m. today, we began browsing menus for dinner. A big shock to discover that every menu was both a la carte and expensive. Hungry and frustrated, we walked into TGIF where they charged $2 extra for one slice raw onion on a hamburger. The only reasonable item at TGIF was an entire bottle of wine for $13. And, walking back to the hotel, we discovered Kardamons Konditori on Livu Laukuma 4, that had outstanding pastries, $2.00 for four of them. Otherwise, the prices here were beyond ridiculous.
Tomorrow is a free day to continue discovering Riga...
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