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« February 2008 |
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| April 2008 »
ex-Marine and I trained from London to Manchester and met the Wilderness group of 10 at the Manchester Airport. Brad, Annette, Michael, Topo, Suzanne, Toni, Heidi, Harvey, Hy and Sharon from all over the United States. Chris was our guide (I think he's still guiding for Wilderness Travel) and transfered us to Cleator, a West Cumbrian village on the River Ehen for two nights. Dinner, orientation, time to smooze and exchange backgrounds. The entire route is 305 km/190 miles and most organizers walk England from West to East. You have the prevailing wind at your back and the most difficult ascents start in Cumbria. The end of the Coast-to-Coast wanders through the heather moors of northeast Yorkshire, finishing at Robin Hood's Bay on the North Sea.
A short drive the next morning to St. Bees on the Irish Sea, the most westerly point of Northern England and our beginning. Traditionally, you christen your boots in the Irish Sea before setting off. Boots christened we immediately headed uphill for a 300m/1000' climb up the cliffs. No rain yet, but cool and extremely windy. So windy that I was thrown from left to right...back to left again...a few steps back...blown by the gusts and looked like a drunk. (Everyone else thought this was pretty funny but me.) The coastal path rolled along with what would have been views out to the Isle of Man (if it had been clearer) and headlands plunging down to the sea. (The headlands, I saw.)
St. Bees, the Coast to Coast beginning
Continue reading "The Coast-to-Coast Began at St. Bees, Cumbria, England" »
It was just a few years ago...whoops...many years ago, when ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I walked across England from the Irish Sea to the North Sea. This famous walk is known as: The Coast to Coast; Wainwright's Walk; and Hiking Across England. All the same and considered one of "The Great Walks of The World" as well as the "Ultimate Hike in England."
We booked this trip through Wilderness Travel and they are still operating this fantastic trip with a few changes. Many, many tour operators also organize the Coast to Coast: Adventure Center, Mountain Travel Sobek, Distant Journeys, Sherpa Walking Holidays to name a few. You can also arrange this trip as a freedom hiker and contact one of the transport companies to move your bags from place to place along the route.
Coast to Coast route
Continue reading "Hiking Across England aka The Famous Coast to Coast" »
It would be ridiculous to visit Hua Hin and not check out the renowned Chiva-Som Spa, one of the best spa resorts in the World and the only Asia spa that consistently receives awards. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I walked down the road to Chiva-Som. From the moment we walked into the cool, tranquil, reception area, it was obvious that this was not your ordinary spa facility. Wanlaya Chuaybumroong, Sales Manager, graciously agreed to drive us around this elegant property even though Chiva-Som is off-limits to all but guests. I wasn't aware until then that Chiva-Som is an all-inclusive Spa with a wide range of services and a smorgasbord of classes. This exclusive resort has only 57 Thai-style pavilions, ocean-view rooms and suites along with a high ratio of staff-to-guests.
Wanlaya showed me the day's fitness therapy schedule for clients to choose from, all led by qualified and experienced trainers: sea kayaking, aquatic therapy, pilates, super stretch, thai boxing, four different types of yoga, tennis, Tai chi, biking - the list went on and on. There is a Yoga Intensive Retreat for all you Yoga practioners out there. (I really need someone to show me the proper way to do Yoga without getting injured and then, perhaps, I too could discover Yoga's benefits.)
Continue reading "Chiva-Som, Hua Hin, Thailand - The Ultimate in Luxury Spas" »
The Rock Hua Hin, is a small luxury, boutique hotel, located a short distance from the center of Hua Hin. Huge, beautiful rooms, gigantic bathroom with a tub big enough for two (you wouldn't believe how long it took to fill that tub), separate shower and private patio.
After most of the mediocre meals in Cambodia (with the exception of Siem Riep), it was a pleasure to be at The Rock. A delicious, reasonably priced dinner. We steadily snarfed our way through appetizers, chicken curry, hot enough to burn the taste buds off our tongues, several our entrees and dessert.
Continue reading "Hua Hin's Hotels and Restaurants" »
A little R&R in Hua Hin, a beautiful resort area about three hours south by car from Bangkok. Hua Hin was discovered in the early 1920s by King Rama VII as an ideal getaway from Bangkok. This quiet fishing village was turned into the Royal resort and rapidly became popular among the nobility and upper-class. Most other Thai holiday destinations cater primarily to foreign tourists but many Thais spend weekends in Hua Hin. Probably because of its proximity to Bangkok.
There are several ways to reach Hua Hin. One is by train from Bangkok. The trains leave from Hualamphong Station (main train station of Bangkok). Another is local air-conditioned buses. The buses leave from South Bus Terminal, Bangkok. Bangkok has several different bus terminals so check and make sure your destination leaves from the correct one.
Our choice was a taxi from Survanabhami Airport to Hua Hin. If there is more than one person, sometimes a taxi is the best way to go. Not that big a cost difference. Flying in from Cambodia, we would have had to take a bus to South Bus Terminal and then another bus from there, and then a taxi to the hotel in Hua Hin. It was a 2-1/2 hour trip on expressways for most of the way and we were there...
old Hua Hin jailhouse
Continue reading "Hua Hin, A Thailand Beach Resort" »
We primarily use Bangkok as a hub to fly through. Very close and convenient to other Southeast Asian countries. ex-Marine and I shop, sightsee, eat and leave. But many visitors journey here for the express purpose of "companionship" while others don't leave without sampling a little bit of Bangkok's infamous sex industry. It's more like..."well, as long as I'm here..."
It's impossible to pick up any free literature without ads offering, for example: "Sexy Hot Girls"; ladyboy and transvestites, male and female, Thai and foreign, special entertainment shows; "Lily Visiting Service" -- we have the hottest girls in town...body to body massage; "B&N"..."guys are different...etc.,; "Inter Mustache's House", 2nd floor go-go- boys, 3rd floor Karaoke... "in and out escort service...24 hours. "Best Bangkok models...only one place who gives money-back guaranteed; "real experience in lesbian..."All True Fantasia" (six shows of course; and my favorite ad -- "Super Big Men" - muscular, medically certified, full satisfaction. The ads are so funny to read...interesting (things I never dreamed) and filled with misspellings.
Continue reading ""Companionship" in Bangkok" »
Survanbahmi Airport has really gotten its act together. No more mob scenes around the luggage carousels, but still with the familiar touts waiting outside customs hoping to scare you into taking one of their cars or taxis. DON'T! Walk outside, get in the taxi line and for less than $10 you'll be taken to your hotel, no matter what time of day or night.
Back at the Grand Mercure Park Avenue, a fast check-in and crash into bed with a wake-up call for their excellent buffet breakfast. Made-to-order eggs, chinese breakfast, noodles, fruit, yogurt, breads and so much more. Wouldn't miss it for the world.
Continue reading "Back in Bangkok, Monasteries and Public Transportation" »
I've gone into a lot of detail about the Annapurna Sanctuary trek because it's important to know all this information if you've never trekked before or want to trek in this area. There are almost too many tour operators to list plus almost every guide runs their own operation on the side. Before booking with your adorable, knowledgeable guide, ask yourself - what if he becomes ill or just disappears in the mountains with your money? It can happen. We've used Adventure Center (see side box) for over 15 trips including this one. They are the hand-off for many relatively inexpensive tour operators around the world (Exodus, Explore, Imaginative Traveller, Dragoman, Geckos, Peregrine). Trekking - bicycling - cultural - overland trips - volunteer. Singles, couples, gays...you'll all feel comfortable. And, without a doubt, these organizers visit every "safe" country in the world. Remember, I never recommend anyone I haven't used and am satisfied with! Request a catalog. Look at their offerings. Book a trip.
- Remember, a "B" grade trek is not the same around the world. A "B" in Nepal could be considered a "C" somwhere else.
- Bring "gently" used old clothes to leave behind. Not just here but everywhere. There is always someone who will think your cast-offs are wonderful.
- Talk to someone who has already done this trek for a better understanding. (We didn't...)
- Pack everything in plastic (trash) bags inside your duffels and/or suitcases.
- April is the most beautiful time of the year to trek in Nepal. The pink, red and white Rhododendrons are incredible against the greenery and snow-capped mountains.
Chomrong children on a tree branch
Continue reading "If You Want To Trek... Nepal or Anywhere" »
Handshakes, hugs and goodbyes to the staff en route to Pokhara while we drove on to the Moonlight Resort, staying for one night only. The Moonlight Resort was luxurious after spending two weeks in teahouses. A Western toilet, bathtub BUT...the sink water just ran out the bottom of the sink on the floor...no pipes. It's always a surprise when you turn on the tap and suddenly feel water on your feet...
There was time to walk around Pokhara set in a valley at the foot of the Machapuchhre with spectacular views of the mountains from everywhere. It was quite different from Kathmandu. There were some interesting short walks, bicycle rides, you could swim and canoe on Lake Phewa or relax. Our choice. Along the lakeside road was a continuous stretch of small hotels, restaurants, massage parlors and shops (seriously bargain) with a hippy feeling....
tour operators everywhere in Pokhara
Continue reading "In Pokhara, Nepal Trek Reflections" »
Last night, the group ate dinner with the staff and distributed tips to them. Sherpas get 4,500 Rupees and Porters, 3,250 Rupees each. This would be our last night with the staff since they would catch a public bus from Pokhara back to Kathmandu. Vimal explained the pecking order of tipping and pre-ordered dinner, Dal. Dal is a typically Nepali and Indian dish consisting of lentils or chickpeas, rice, potatoes and some vegetables. Dal is not one of our favorites but it was only for one night. Vimal also asked everyone to eat Nepali style, with fingers.
After dinner, the tip envelopes were distributed to the staff, everyone in the group taking turns to present to their Porter or Sherpa. I presented to Purna and ex-Marine gave his envelope to Lila with extremely heartfelt thanks for all the hard work. Running back and forth between the kitchens and dining areas in all the teahouses, carrying the 40# duffels over the same terrain as us...up and down those killer steps...the smiles...singing...for adding ex-Marine's and my backpacks to their already heavy loads...with never a complaint. How could we adequately express our thanks for everything they did.... After that, time for singing and dancing. Steve and I were completely exhausted and went to bed.
Lyn at dinner
Continue reading "Day 12: Dhampus to Phedi to Pokhara, Nepal" »
A statistic - The average age of a Nepali women is 56...a man, 57. Nepal is one of the few countries in the world where women die before men. Probably because they do all the hard work. Today will be the last full day of trekking but again, a very long day of approximately 7 hours. We were supposed to only go as far as Pothana but Vimal has had problems in this area on his last few treks and wants to continue past Pothana to Dhampus. (Not quite sure exactly what the problems were.)
Breakfast with my favorite banana pancake rolled like a crepe around lots of bananas, and plenty of "trekking honey" poured over. Off ex-Marine and I went with Lila in the lead before the group left. We're so slow that they have no problem catching and passing us. A long, steep downhill to the river and along the other side for a bit.
last section of Annapurna trek
Continue reading "Trekking Day 11: Jhinu to Dhampus, Nepal" »
Absolutely nothing dried last night and we dug dirty but dry socks out of the duffels to wear. The socks from yesterday were still dripping. If we survive this trip, we'll be in fantastic shape. Bamboo, at 2,500m/8,200' altitude, was as cold as the Sanctuary. The day could possibly be another 7-1/2 hours with some uphills and primarily downhills to Jhinu at 1,750m/5,741' but at least the sun is shining again.
Leaving at 8:00 am, it was uphill for the first two hours, a tea stop at Sinuwa. I was carrying my own backpack until then but was so exhausted from yesterday and struggling to put one foot in front of the other. When Lila offered to carry my back along with Steve's (ex-Marine), I hesitated. ex-Marine let loose with a long stream of swear words, basically calling me a stubborn m-f, and telling me to give Lila the g-damned pack. Okay, then. (When I eat candy for energy, you know I'm running on empty...View image) From Sinuwa downhill to the river was my favorite trail of the day. Fairly gentle, winding, with slate steps closer together which meant portions felt like walking down a staircase rather than climbing down a staircase.
sunny views down the valley
Continue reading "Trekking Day 10: Bamboo to Jhinu, Nepal" »
Not only did it thunder, rain and lightening most of the night but also snowed up a major storm. Wake-up knocks on the door at 5:30 am. Not that anyone was asleep. Between the thin walls (you could hear every creak, snore and conversation on both sides) and the cold (I wore Gore-tex pants, fleece and long underwear to bed), we were up. A walk to the pit toilets in a blinding snowstorm. You couldn't even see the mountains and we'd have to go downhill in this. Over 1,500m/5,000 feet downhill in one day. This would be difficult under the best conditions and with upwards of 4" of snow covering rocks and ice, it would be brutal.
TIP: We've learned to put our clothes in the foot of the sleeping bag at night so you don't have to put on freezing clothes in the morning.
The only two people ecstatic about the snow were -- Hugh and Isla -- who promptly had a snowball fight. I was not happy. Who knows how long it was going to take us to get down safely.
Isla in the snow
Continue reading "Trekking Day 9: Annapurna Base Camp to Bamboo, Nepal" »
With everyone at the Camp and assigned rooms, we all gathered in the dining room for lunch, to rehash the trek up, and bubble over with enthusiasm. Hot soup hit the spot and Vimal was going to take those who wanted out for another hike after lunch. Not me...I'd had enough hiking for a lifetime. He pointed out the route behind the dining room up to a ridge for more wonderful views of Advanced Annapurna Base Camp. I looked. That was a scree mountain. That would have settled it if I had planned on going. I hate scree (loose rock debris on a slope).
FYI: You can do the entire Annapurna Sanctuary Trek for yourself or hire guides and porters in Pokhara or Kathmandu. BUT....there is no guarantee that you'll find anyplace to stay. Big competition for the few teahouse/lodges along this extremely popular tour. We saw two young people hiking up to Machapuchhre Base Camp yesterday only to be turned away and have to hike back down to Bamboo. Base Camp was completely booked and all the Sherpas/Porters traditionally sleep in the communal dining area...no room even there. If you tent it...no problem.
Annapurna Sanctuary views
Continue reading "Trekking Day 8 cont'd: Annapurna Base Camp, Nepal" »
Huddled around the dining room table last night, our Sherpas and Porters entertained us with a trekking song involving lots of hand motions. They are all so sweet and work so hard. I can barely keep my eyes open and they are busy serving us, smiling and singing after carrying 40# loads and our backpacks up the mountain during the day.
Today is the pinnacle...highlight...zenith...culmination...and crowning point...of the trek. Annapurna Base Camp. We'll have to leave by 8:30 am for this last push up from Machapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) 3,600m/11,811' to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) 4,100m/13,451'. The highest altitude in this trip. But first, the daily struggle to put in contact lenses with no light. All of you perfect vision people just don't appreciate perfect sight! Followed by the line in front of the smelly, squat toilets. Even with all the drawbacks, I still prefer teahouses/lodges to a tent.
Annapurna Himalayas
Continue reading "Trekking Day 8: Machapuchhre Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp - Nepal" »
Notes to self. TRY and remember that a "B" hike in Peru...is not a "B" in Nepal...is not a "B" in Ladakh...is not a "B" in Europe. The rating refers ONLY to that specific country! Why do I keep forgetting this all-important piece of information? Why did I think that the Annapurna Sanctuary trek graded "B" in Nepal would be easy? Our only saving grace is the ability to walk very slowly at the back of the pack. Stamina, from all the years of exercise, and mental tenacity are the other two reasons we're still upright, still moving and "not dead yet." (One of my favorite lines in Monty Python & The Holy Grail ..."bring out your dead...but I'm not dead yet.")
Beside all the soft drinks, the entire group is living on carbohydrates. Pancakes, bread, cereals for breakfast...bowls of thick noodle soups, chapatis, french fries/chips, tuna pasta, pizza, small potatoes with cheese on top, rice, Dal (lentils), cheese toast...and let's not forget candy bars. Hardly any vegetables to be seen and no fruit. You can see the weight falling off. ex-Marine has lost his "Buddha-belly" and my pants are loose.
ex-Marine (Steve) and Sheila, ready for MBC
Continue reading "Trekking Day 7: The Push To Machapuchhre Base Camp - Nepal" »
We broke one of the cardinal rules for traveling. If you wear glasses, take a spare pair. Didn't and last night one of ex-Marine's ear pieces broke off from metal fatigue. Fortunately, his sunglasses are prescription otherwise he'd be up the creek without a paddle. Even so, how do you use prescription sunglasses to see anything when it is pitch-black in your room? Impossible. Used our handy-dandy roll of duct tape to semi-attach the stem. And then...the other ear piece broke off. Duct-taped that one. This is going to be a daily routine duct-taping stems until we return home.
It was going to be another exhausting day from Chomrong to Doban, at 1,600m/5,429'. Powered up at breakfast with egg and onion omelets, chapatis and lots of coffee. Since the day we saw the egg man carrying his 2,000 eggs, we've been trying to eat more eggs. Doing our bit to help him. Chomrong is the village where the trail divides into two - those trekkers heading towards Annapurna Sanctuary, and those heading back down to Pokhara - and where we'll take the new trail returning from Sanctuary.
ex-Marine and his fashion statement duct-taped glasses
Continue reading "Trekking Day 6: Chomrong to Doban, Nepal" »
There would be approximately six hours of walking until reaching the trekking hub of Chomrong with an initial descent of at least three hours. Tadapani was located at an altitude of 2,600m/8,530' and this initial descent was 700m/2,000'+ until we'd climb up the other side. Descents are even harder on knees than uphills and everyone has a preference. You are either an "uphill" person or "downhill" person. Adri loves downhills and can run them with no problem, probably because she has great balance. I am an uphiller. Can manage to get up almost anything but have to pick my way down. The "usual" sunrise on Machapuchhre with its twin fish-tail peak, and breakfast. Vimal said there would be a good chance of leeches when we lost altitude. Oh Happy Day!
Most of our group were on lengthy trips throughout the world and did laundry each night, hanging the wet clothes on clotheslines to dry. Dry? Almost never and was usually hung off a backpack for drying en route. ex-Marine and I subscribe to the theory: bring as many old articles of clothing possible and toss along the way. Someone can always use the clothes and we don't have to launder them. Each T-shirt was a two-day wear and it was exciting to pass them on to one of our Porters and/or Sherpas. Even our very old Gore-tex and fleece jackets were promised to Purna, Lila and Rachmat for trek end.
Machapuchhre (Fish Tail) seen from Tadapani
Continue reading "Trekking Day 5: Tadapani to Chomrong, Nepal" »
Leaving Deurali on a long ridge walk, we then did a three-hour descent through a jungly forest. ex-Marine and I are still the last ones and Vimal filled the long hours with information about Nepal and its people:
- Porters earn anywhere from $5-$15 a day and are very proud of their work.
- We saw a Kingfisher and vulture - not together.
- No yaks in this area because we are too low.
- "Jum-jum" means "let's go" in Nepali.
- Machapuchhre is a holy mountain and illegal to climb.
This forest had moss-covered trees, thick foliage and liana vines hanging down. We followed along a river with prayer flags and vivid yellow stones in the water, crossed little bridges, and gawked at waterfalls for hours. Lila is still carrying ex-Marine's backpack. A bonus for being a 67-year old and still able to trek. Don't worry...we intend on taking good care of Lila when the trek is over, when the Rupees dry out, and if we survive...
bridge and prayer flags
Continue reading "Trekking Day 4 cont'd: Deurali to Tadapani, Nepal" »
Early in the morning, the noisy group got ready to hike up Poon Hill and watch the sunrise on the Himalayas. At least they hoped there would be a wonderful sunrise. Warm clothes, torches/flashlights because the first hour would be in the dark. Vimal said many travellers consider this to be one of the main highlights of the trip. Highlight or no highlight, ex-Marine, Anna and I weren't going. This would just be added to the list of "highlights" missed during my life. ex-Marine slept (he sleeps through everything) while I pulled pack the thin curtains on our corner room windows to watch sunrise from here. And, a brilliant sunrise it was!
They came back to Ghorepani for breakfast with raves about the sunrise, and stories of all the other trekkers gathered on top of this one hill...freezing and waiting. Outside the windows, the sun continued lighting up the Dhaulgiri Massif and Annapurna. I think everyone is becoming a little blase over the incredible sights since no one ran for cameras...instead, there is a massive concentration on breakfast...and eating...
dawn on Dhaulgiri
Continue reading "Trekking Day 4: Ghorepani to Deurali, Tea Break - Nepal" »
At dinner, Vimal tells everyone that tomorrow's hike to Ghorepani will be 1-1/2 hours longer. All I know is today was one of the hardest first-days-on-trek we've ever been on. Heat and those unrelenting stone steps and uphills. Eight hours of uphill to be exact. Adri is a Dietician, working in Scotland, originally from South Africa. We're going to follow her advice for the rest of the trip and eat carbos...carbos...and more carbos. To hell with Atkins, South Beach and every other diet recommendation. It also helps that there is very little fruit and vegetables to even be had at this altitude. Everything must be carried in.
There are definite advantages being slow and the last people on this trek. Vimal fills us with all kinds of information. "Gora" means house - "Pani" means water, together Ghorepani. That's our destination tomorrow. Ghorepani (2850m/9,000'+) is a busy trekking village and is supposed to have incredible view of Annapurna South. In spring, the views would be even better with flowering Rhododendron bushes.
Bernie placing her dinner order
Continue reading "Trekking Day 3: Ulleri to Ghorepani, Nepal" »
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