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« July 2007 |
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| September 2007 »
Gyantse lies between Lhasa and Shigatse (about 143 miles south of Lhasa). It is still a traditional, relaxed Tibetan town but who knows for how much longer. Gyantse was once a principle wool trade route to India and is encircled by an impressive wall that once contained 19 monasteries. A wonderful setting with the Nyang Chu River below and mountain ridges behind it. This monastery houses monks from the Gelugpa, Sakyapa and Kahampa orders and is the only one known to house monks from different orders in harmony. That fact is what makes Gyantse special.
The original Gyantse Dzong dates from the 14th century and little is known about its history. The ground floor of the Main Assembly Hall was a chanting hall with 48 columns decorated with old silk "thankas" along with a 26-foot high bronze Buddha image. There were over 112 chapels scattered around this complex with only 23 open to the public.
Gyantse views
Continue reading "Gyangtse: Palcho Monastery/Pelkor Chode Monastery" »
The drive from Shigatse to Gyantse was another all-day drive, longer than usual because the Chinese Government was busy doing the usual "building during the summer" routine and we had to detour all the way around.
Uphill all the way through desolate mountains and beyond the Kampa La Pass. Yamdrok Tso Lake, a beautiful turquoise blue, was below us and I would have loved to take some photos but our driver's car was acting up again and none of us wanted to stop in isolated areas in case the car wouldn't start again. (We think the carburater was completly clogged with dirt...understandable on these roads.) The road ran parallel to the Lake for several miles until we reached Nakartse. More ascents until we reached Kao La Pass (5,010m/16,437'), with its glacier touching the road.
glacier on the Kao La Pass
Continue reading "Driving From Shigatse to Gyantse" »
All the way to Tingri, ex-Marine and I kept marveling at our luck having such a crystal-clear day. With Everest's changeable weather, there is never a guarantee that you'll really be able to see the North Face of Mount Everest. So very fortunate! Again, Spring and Fall are the best times for Mount Everest viewing.
Tingri is set at an atitude of 14,600', and what a pleasure it was to almost be able to breathe again. We got to the Tingri Everest Hotel and knew from the lengthy conversation Tenzin was having with the desk clerk that something good was not happening. Sure enough, Tenzin and clerk approached with the news that clerk wanted to show us a different room because every room in the hotel was competely booked by a big Chinese group. Puzzled...we have reservations...followed the clerk out the hotel to some so-so rooms across a courtyard. Definitely sub-standard. Back in the Tingri Everest, we have a fast conversation with Tenzin and discover that the Chinese group hadn't arrived yet. With that ex-Marine heads to the desk clerk and nicely, but firmly, states that we were here...they were not...give us our room and put one of the Chinese in that room. Probably because the Hotel didn't want to lose face, they gave us the room. And, FYI, this is one of those hotels were there was only hot water between 7:30pm and Midnight, one of those things that are always after-the-fact and they neglect to tell you.
Tibetan child
Continue reading "Tingri to Shigatse" »
Today was one of the most exciting days in our lives. First, because we actually survived the night at 16,300', followed by the 8 kms/5-mile hike to the North Face of Everest Base Camp at 17,200'.
There was a full moon last night, lighting up Mount Everest. A good thing because it was impossible to sleep for many different reasons:
- Reason One - Had to turn in bed very carefully, in case one of the wood supports holding it up fell off and caused the bed to collapse;
- Reason Two - I could hear ex-Marine gasping for breath all night and even stop breathing every now and then from the altitude! Then, when I didn't hear any gasps, I'd leap out of bed and check to see if he was still alive; and
- Reason Three - Doors opened and shut throughout the night as the other lucky people staying in this dump went out to urinate, etc.
North Face of Mount Everest in all it's glory
Continue reading "North Face of Everest Base Camp" »
The drive from Shigatse to Rongbuk took the entire day, driving over several high passes. Many tourists visit the North Face of Everest by combining it with a trip to Nepal since it could be considered "on the way." Left the Shengkang Hotel in Shigatse very early and started off. The scenery was constantly changing. One minute there would be the massive Himalayas, snow caps glistening in the sun...a few minutes later, the car was struggling up towards a pass, making "s" turns all the way up (very glad I took Meclizine, a generic for motion-sickness)...and then we'd come down into vast open distances filled with farmlands.
It was planting season and boggles my mind how anything could grow in the dry, arid soil. But people were out plowing furrows throughout the entire valley with the husband controlling one or two yaks (always colorfully decorated with pom-poms) while his wife followed behind with the seeds. Such a hard, hard life...
enormous arid Tibet valley
Continue reading "Shigatse to Rongbuk Monastery At North Face Everest" »
We left Lhasa on the 920 km/600+ mile road connecting Lhasa, Tibet with Kathmandu, Nepal, known as the Friendship Highway. The stopping point for us would be the North Face of Everest on the Tibetan side before heading back to Lhasa. The "highway" ranges from black-top to gravel to dirt, depending on which section the Chinese Government is rebuilding each year and whether or not you must detour. The first, most important lesson to learn is: NEVER COUNT ON SEEING ANYTHING SCHEDULED IN YOUR ITINERARY. It isn't going to happen!
Everyone visits Shigatse for one reason - to see Tashilhumpo Monastery. Tashilhumpo is a very large complex with red and white buildings and huge "thanka" wall, built on a steep hill. It was founded in 1447 by the first Dalai Lama and is one of Tibet's four biggest Gelugpa Monasteries. Tashilhumpo housed over 4,000 monks at one time, but now there are only about 500-700. Drepung, Sera and Ganden Monasteries are a few of the other famous monasteries we visited during our trip to Nam-tso Lake years ago.
Continue reading "Shigatse and Tashilhumpo Monastery" »
The Potala Palace and Barkhor are two of my favorite sights in Tibet. The Potala Palace is now on the list of Chinese National protected cultural relics, and is a huge treasure house for Tibetan history, precious sculptures, Buddha figures, murals, antiques, and religious jewelry. Prepare to do a lot of walking since the entire complex covers over 32 acres. Most of the Potala is off-limits but the Palace is still a long climb up, rises 13 stories and has over 1,000 rooms.
The Potala Palace is located on the Red Hill of Lhasa and was rebuilt by the 5th Dalai Lama in 1645. It has remained the seat of Dalai Lamas and is also the political center of Tibet. The White Palace (administration ) and the Red Palace (religious) are two separate entities. The Red Palace was painted red (represents stateliness and power) after the death of the 5th Dalai Lama, and this is where the religious statues, stupas and precious cultural relics are found.
magnificent Potala Palace
Continue reading "The Potala Palace and Around Barkhor Square" »
Standing in the Gongkar Airport (Lhasa), a young man came rushing up to us..."Steve...Sheila...don't you remember me?" It was Lopsang, our guide on the Mt. Khawarkarpo Trek in China ( read "Mt. Khawarkarpo Trek," April 7, 2006). Of all the places...in all the world.... Lopsang started his own guiding business and was leading two Frenchmen on a trip around Tibet. We promptly made arrangements to meet for dinner one night in Lhasa.
Tenzin, our Tibetan guide, was also standing in the baggage area holding up a big sign. Out to the vehicle, met our driver, Tenzin II, and hit the road to Lhasa with a stop along the way to see some beautiful Buddha rock carvings. A brief pause for the first of many Toyota breakdowns while Tenzin II fiddled around with wrenches and screwdrivers until it coughed into life. Instant woozy feelings at the 3,700m/11,975' altitude, and we both started drinking water like mad. In the few years since our last visit, everything had changed tremendously. The Chinese Government was busy building new roads, new buildings and Lhasa had become more than half Chinese with Han workers flooding in from all over China hoping to get in on new business opportunities. This included building the new railway which has since opened. The workers were also building a new road from the Airport into Lhasa in anticipation of an upcoming visit by China's President.
Lhasa City Map
Continue reading "Revisiting Lhasa" »
Air? This time we flew United from Chicago to Beijing and instantly connected to an Air China flight going to Chengdu. Chengdu is the usual departure point for Tibet and most tour operators will meet you there with air tickets to Lhasa and entry documents. (See below.)
Visa? You must have a Chinese Visa which is easy to get at your local Chinese Embassy/Consulate. In Chicago, you can pay extra and arrange for one in the same day. But, you must arrange the air and permits to Lhasa through a tour operator. Chengdu is the easiest place to arrange this and Tomas took care of all the formalities for us.
Hotels? The entire trip was hotel/guesthouse based with no camping. We only needed one hotel for Chengdu at the end of this trip and decided on the Sheraton Chengdu Lido.
Continue reading "Planning A Return to Tibet" »
With all the emphasis on treks to Mount Everest Base Camp in Nepal and climbing the South Face to the top, people tend to forget about the other route, Tibet's North Face. The Nepal trip takes 10 days of trekking from Lukla to Everest Base Camp and then another 10 days returning to Lukla. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I did a shorter version of this trek as far as Tengboche (read "Mt. Everest Escapade," November 21, 2006) but still had a desire to see Mount Everest closer than that. A lot of reading and I discovered that you could actually DRIVE to Rongbuk, in Tibet, and then hike to the North Face of Everest Base Camp, approximately 8 kms/5 miles away. Now that sounded like something easily attainable, and the thought of returning to Tibet was a big plus. (read "Heart of Tibet," July 1, 2006). I really wanted to revisit Lhasa and the stupendous Potala Palace, along with other important monasteries missed on the previous trip to Tibet.
With specific sights in mind, a group tour just wasn't going to do the job so we contacted Tomas at Footloose Travel, to explore prices and options. Tomas had previously arranged a three-week trip to Ladakh for us (read "Ladakh, A Summer Destination," March 31, 2006) and arranges a myriad of individual trips and group tours around the world.
Tibet map
Continue reading "Tibet's North Face of Everest" »
Waterberg Plateau Park was the group's last stop on the Namibia itinerary before returning to Windhoek. Waterberg is a sandstone mountain that rises over 600 feet from the surrounding plains and is Namibia's only mountain game park. The area is under the protection of nature conservancy and there are many endangered species like the Black and White Rhino, Sable Antelope and Blue Wildebeest, all introduced here. (Saw none of these.)
The Plateau is also arid on top but there is a lot of surface water and permanent springs at the foot of the mountain. Waterberg Plateau is around 35 miles long and glowed a brilliant red late in the day. The Herero people originally settled in this area and during 1904, 40,000 Herero men, women and children were surrounded by German colonial soldiers and almost annihilated. Only a few Herero escaped through the Kalahari desert to Botswana.
Waterberg Plateau
Continue reading "Waterberg Plateau Park and Namibia Thoughts" »
We've been traveling by train throughout Europe for over 30 years and if there was a mistake to be made, been there...done it! Think traveling by train is a no-brainer? It isn't...and that is why I finally wrote my first e-book: Sheila's Guide to European Train Travel. European trains are a marvel of efficiency with huge networks covering almost every big and little town on the continent.
Sheila's Guide to European Train Travel spells out the best tips, simply broken down, to save time, money and hassle. Which country should I visit by train? Should I combine multiple countries? Do I want a point-to-point ticket or Train Pass? What is a Train Pass? A "silence" car? Does the train personnel speak English? How will I know the track my train leaves on? Are there supplements? And much more. Traveling can, and should, be fun and easy! Don't wait until you retire...or the kids are older (they love train travel and can walk up and down the aisles without disturbing anyone)...or you have enough disposable income (who does)...or the world is a safer place...or you win the lottery (neither of the last two are going to happen)! You still can travel on a budget and visit Europe's charming towns, big cities and remote locations via train. And nothing compares with a view like this from your train window...
town in France seen though the train window
Continue reading "European Train Travel" »
Etosha National Park covers over 12,500 square miles and is an immense, saline desert. Some describe it as the best game reserve on the African continent and is a definite highlight of any trip to Namibia. The terrain ranges from dense bush to large open plains. In the center is a vast saltpan, Etosha Pan, formed some 12 million years ago from an island lake. It is now a dried-up depression in the ground surrounded by grass and thorn savannah.
Almost every animal is represented in this huge nature reserve. Lions, rhinos, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest and springbok (the most numerous species in Etosha - at least 20,000). There are three restcamps, Okaukaejo, Halali and Namutoni. The group would spend one night at Okaukuejo, near the main entrance (Andersson Gate) to the park before heading to Namutoni for two nights.
welcome to Etosha National Park
Continue reading "Okaukuejo and Namutoni in Etosha National Park" »
Leaving the adorable but stinky seals behind, the truck headed inland passing Brandberg Mountain, at 2,573m/8,441' the highest point in Namibia, and entered the southern part of Damaraland. The name "Brandberg" is Afrikaans and German for Fire Mountain, which comes from its glowing color sometimes seen in the setting sun.
To the San (Bushmen) tribes, Brandberg is regarded as a spiritual site. The main tourist attraction here is The White Lady rock painting. To reach The White Lady , it was necessary to hike for about 40 minutes over rough terrain carefully watching your step. The ravine also contained more than 45,000 rock paintings and 1,000 rock shelters. The Bushmen are the oldest ethnic group in Namibia and were forced by the South African "homeland" policy to settle in a desert-like area between Kaudom Park and Omaheke. An interesting Bushmen fact: They coat the tips of their arrows with a highly toxic poison obtained from the larvae of a beetle. This poison is fatal to humans (even tiny amounts) and the recipe to make it is known only to the Bushmen. Unfortunately, this area was not on our itinerary. Perhaps, next time.
Bushmen painting
Continue reading "Brandberg Mountain and Twyfelfontein" »
There was a possibility of an optional early morning balloon ride over the Namibian desert but we didn't take advantage of it. Instead, the group headed out across the desert towards Swakopmund. Past the dune fields, into mountains, across the desolate gravel plains before reaching more coastal sand dunes at Walvis Bay. Walvis Bay is a large spit that forms a natural deep-sea harbor. This harbor attracted the first navigators in the late 1400's. Many flamingos and pelicans. Walvis Bay also considers itself "Namibia's Adventure City" with sandboarding on nearby dunes, skydiving, quad bike tours and scenic air excursions. The area also had a seal and dolphin boat cruise done with ski boats in the protected lagoon area. An unusual excursion.
We stopped for a picnic lunch on the beach. The group had this routine down pat...unload the camp chairs, set them up, prepare lunch, collapse the camp chairs, restow in the vehicle, and we were done. After lunch, an easy walk to see the flamingos and other bird life in the Walvis Bay lagoon before continuing on into Swakopmund. Another trick learned early in the trip was how to get in and out of our Safari truck, quite high off the ground, without mutilating and bruising your legs. You had to climb up and down...carefully...watching that knees didn't bash into the metal.
camp chairs on the beach
Continue reading "Swakopmund and Cape Cross Seal Colony" »
The very congenial group was off in our large but comfortable safari truck into the Namib Desert on small desert roads that connect all of rural Namibia. Windhoek is in a mountain valley and we had to climb out over the Eros Mountains and then the Khomas Hochland Range. The oldest desert on earth, the Namib stretches along the entire coastline for hundreds of miles and consists of gravel plains and sand dunes. It also has some of the strangest flora and fauna on the African continent. For example, the rare brown hyena and one of a kind, Welwitschia plant that can live to be 400-1,000 years old!
Part of the Namib also includes the Northern Skeleton Coast. The "Skeleton Coast" was named for the many shipwrecks along this section of the Atlantic coast. If any sailor was lucky enough to survive the shipwreck, they would then die in the Namib Desert. Ship pieces still litter the sands but we weren't going to visit this far north. (The Skeleton Coast is usually included in a fly-in itinerary because of the distances.)
Wild Dog's comfortable safari truck
Continue reading "Thre Three "S's" - Solitaire, Sesriem Canyon and Sossusvlei" »
Whenever I tell anyone we're flying to Asia or Africa, the first comment is always..."How can you stand flying so far? I would never do it."... It is a very long and brutal trip but I've developed "travel amnesia" over the years. Everyone sits crammed into those small seats hour-after-hour, completely miserable, but once I've actually arrived, fallen into bed and awakened the next morning in a new exotic locale, all the misery is forgotten. It took over eight air hours just from Chicago to Frankfurt, and then more than 10 additional air hours to Johannesburg. Splurged and took a dayroom at the Novotel Frankfurt Airport to collapse into a prone position until the very late evening flight to Johannesburg. In Johannesburg, a fast transfer over to South African Airways, finally arriving in Windhoek around 1:00 pm (who knows how many actual hours later)....missing....ex-Marine's suitcase! Mine finally materialized on the baggage carousel but not his. At least we had another full day before the tour started. Filled out "missing baggage" papers and was assured it would be here in a day or so. Thanks, SAA.
An inexpensive taxi to the Safari Court Hotel, a short distance from Eros Airport. The Safari Court Hotel runs free bus transportation to and from Windhoek several times a day and that's where we were headed after a fast unpack to sort out this mess with SAA. We always try to arrive a day early just in case something goes wrong with the flights. I'd hate to miss part of a tour because of weather-related or mechanical delays/cancellations. The group tour leader from Wild Dog Safaris wouldn't be in the lobby until tomorrow night for the initial briefing.
old Windhoek map
Continue reading "Windhoek, Namibia's Capital" »
Dear Readers:
"Travels With Sheila" is becoming more sophisticated and entering new dimensions (for me) - streaming video in the near future, e-books, travel consultations and Webinars. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I just returned from Eastern Tibet and attended a rather strange Tong Ren festival, only held once a year. In the past, participants skewered themselves through cheeks and backs while the main Shaman slashed open his face. Anticipating this gory display, I broke down a bought a camcorder. Alas, the Head Lama decided..."this is not a good thing for people to do"...duh....and there was no skewering this year. Just as well. The thought of sticking what looked like shish kabob skewers through cheeks gave me the heebie-jeebies, but I still have some great video of this trip. As soon as I learn how to edit, etc., you'll see it. Fortunately, I've gotten as far as actually loading the film clips on my computer! Making progress here!
Lama "spoilsport"
Continue reading "A One-Hour Webinar on Travel" »
Air? We flew United, Chicago to Frankurt, and then turned in United Airlines miles to get free Lufthansa Business Class tickets from Frankfurt-Johannesburg-Capetown, South Africa. The flight from Capetown-Windhoek, Namibia was also included on South African Airways but we would have to buy a one-way ticket from Windhoek-Capetown for the return. For some ridiculous reason, this segment wasn't applicable. Go figure.... TIP: Try to use miles accumulated on airlines - especially if you can wangle First or Business Class (the only way we can afford to fly in those sections)....
Visas? No visa required for U.S. or U.K. citizens.
Travel Insurance? Some don't buy travel insurance, we always do...just in case. These trips are too expensive to risk losing everything if any problems arise. Contact Travel Guard for insurance needs.
Namibia map
Continue reading "Planning Our Namib Lodge Safari Over The Christmas Holidays" »
Namibia wasn't exactly up there on the general public's travel radar before Angelina Jolie decided this country was the perfect place to give birth and those cute little Meerkats appeared on television but it was on mine. I had noticed the many Namibia trips offered by Explore U.K., through Adventure Center (one of my favorite lower-priced tour operators), and the unusual itinerary interested me. Seal Colonies, the world's high sand dunes, and Etosha National Park (the third largest in Africa) for game viewing, plus there was no camping. All accommodation would be in well-appointed lodges, hotels and rest-camp bungalows. That always makes ex-Marine (husband, Steve) very happy.
Other tour operators who also run trips to Namibia are: Mountain Travel Sobek; Wilderness Travel; Geographic Expeditions; and Exodus.
Namibia's location in Africa
Continue reading "Visiting Namibia Before Angelina Jolie and Meerkat Manor" »
Long ago, ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I took a group hiking tour to Japan. Two weeks spent hiking in the Kita Alps, sleeping in little family-owned Ryokans on futons, using the communal Public Baths, visiting an Onsen (Hot Spring), the Tsukiji fish market, Tokyo, and staying in a beautiful Kyoto Monastery. An exhilarating total immersion into Japanese culture and wonderful experience.
We decided to celebrate our 10th anniversary by spending two days in Hong Kong after Japan. One of ex-Marine's good friends said..."You have got to stay at the Regent Hotel. Pay whatever the price is but get a room overlooking Hong Kong Harbor on a high floor. The views are stupendous and worth every penny." Understand that this friend was as cheap as cheap can be and if he paid the kind of money the Regent Hotel was asking, it had to be worth the expenditure espcially since we would be celebrating. (Ten years is an accomplishment in a first marriage. In a second marriage, 10 years is a humungous feat..with ex-mates...blended families, etc.)
Continue reading "A Hong Kong Hotel" »
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