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« November 2006 | Main | January 2007 »

December 31, 2006

More Lobi and Another Witch Doctor in Ghana, West Africa

The Lobi are famous for ceremonial plugs worn in the lips of the women. We saw a few still wearing them but no photos. They too, build fortress-style, mud brick homes, have animist beliefs and still hunt with bows and arrows Very friendly people who played some traditional Lobi music for us.

We then visited a house belonging to the local witch doctor who had died a little while back. Approaching his house, we stopped a respectful distance away and waiting for a family member to invite us in. On top of the house was what looked like a Scarecrow. Supposedly, this Scarecrow was a lookout for the Witch Doctor and told him if anyone was approaching his house.

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scarecrow lookout

Continue reading "More Lobi and Another Witch Doctor in Ghana, West Africa" »

December 30, 2006

Wa and Lobi People, Ghana, West Africa

Continuing on once again to Wa, capital of Ghana's Upper West Region, a predominantly Muslim area. Since it was Friday, we hoped to see the local people going to the Mosque. Jumu'ah (also known as Friday prayer) is held just after noon.

Wa is the regional capital and the gateway to the Upper West Region from the sout with a number of attractions including the Wa Na's (King's) Palace. It is said to be more than 500 years old. Constructed of traditional materials, the Palace is a blend of Sudanic and Moorish architecture and is beautiful. There was also an old mosque in the village of Nakori. In addition to these ancient Sudanic mosques are modern ones, which are also interesting.

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Nakori Mosque

Continue reading "Wa and Lobi People, Ghana, West Africa" »

December 29, 2006

The Gurunsi, Talensi and Kassena Groups, West Africa

Moving along, our route followed part of the ancient caravan trail through territory inhabited by the Gurunsi, Dagarti, Talensi and Kassena (a subset of the Gurunsi) ethnic groups. these people all live in communal, fortified villages. The Gurunsi and Kassena people are known for the murals decorating the walls of their mud huts. Most of the smooth-walled, mud-brick homes are covered with geometric artwork created by the village women.

The villages consist of narrow streets with houses grouped together in harmonious round formations. Both the Gurunsi, Talensi and Kassena decorate in a similar fashion.

The Gurunsi/Kassena are famous throughout the world for the beauty of their mural decorations, which adorn the outside their round clay huts. The women are responsible for painting gorgeous frescoes on the walls.

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Gurunsi/Talensi decoration
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closer details

Continue reading "The Gurunsi, Talensi and Kassena Groups, West Africa" »

December 28, 2006

Northern Togo and Ghana's Different Ethnic Groups, West Africa

The Moba are a group of warriors who still practice the rite of female circumcision. (Owie, that hurts!) They inhabit the north and build their homes of clay, with conical roofs made of straw. A wall surrounds and protects the huts belonging to members of the same family and form small villages spread out over the territory.

But the most important part of this day was Christmas Eve and we would be tenting in the Somba region. On the way back from an excursion to visit a "bracelet village", we passed a young man biking along the road with a turkey hanging by his feet from the bicycle. Turkey! How perfect for Christmas. With that, Roberto and Godfried jumped out of their vehicles and started negotiating and, even though the cook was planning to prepare something else for Christmas dinner, bought the turkey.

This was a great photo op for Godfield ...View image...and ex-Marine...

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ex-Marine and turkey

Continue reading "Northern Togo and Ghana's Different Ethnic Groups, West Africa" »

December 27, 2006

Somba Villages in West Africa

The Somba were also once famous for their nudity but most wear clothes now. They still hunt with bows and arrows and I seriously considering buying some as souvenirs...then thought about the problems going through airport security with a bow and arrows slung over my back...

Their architecture was very unique with castle-like adobe dwellings. the Sombas began to build these fortress-like houses to protect themselves from the slave raid of the Dan-Homey warriors. They are small, round huts with the ground floor reserved for animals. The kitchen in on the next level and then the sleeping level and terrace is on the top.

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Somba village


Continue reading "Somba Villages in West Africa" »

December 26, 2006

The Taneka People and Natitingou, West Africa

A morning hike to visit a clifftop Taneka community with unusual round-roofed dwellings. The highest part of the village was inhabited by the chief fetish priests who dress in goatskins, and their young initiates who were naked except for a band fo goatskin around their neck holding amulets. There was quite a bit of nudity with a fetish priest still dressed only in a simple loincloth sitting there on display, and the women wore only sarongs.

These Taneka may be descendants of a tribe thought to have disappeared about 400 years ago. Both the Tanekas and Sombas still live in traditional ways and "Somba" means "naked" in their local language, but I've got to tell you, an elderly, thin naked priest is not pretty sight! The head priest just sat there, placidly smoking his pipe.

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Taneka head priest

Continue reading "The Taneka People and Natitingou, West Africa" »

December 25, 2006

Holiday Wishes

I'd like to take a moment to wish everyone a Wonderful Holiday and fantastic New Year. I hope 2006 has been a good year for everyone and if 2006 didn't live up to your expectations, perhaps 2007 will.

Continue traveling around the world. Unlike Disney's... "it's a small world after all"...it is a very big world with much to see, inhabited by wonderful, hospitable people. Don't let accounts in the newspaper and television frighten you off from visiting. I'm not suggesting Iraq or Afghanistan but we visited Syria years ago and were taken (not hostage) and amazed by the ancient site of Palmyra, to name one, along with the extremely outgoing Syrian people.

Continue reading "Holiday Wishes" »

December 24, 2006

Abomey, Benin and More Voodoo in West Africa

Abomey is one of Benin's big attractions with painted voodoo fetish temples and remains of former royal palaces. The Dan-Homey empire built magnificcent palaces in Abomey. One is now a museum displaying ritual objects of the court including treasures given by European royalty and merchants. The palace also contained the kings' grand tombs.

There were originally 12 palaces. However, all but two were destroyed by the French army in 1892. The remaining palaces are being restored with the help of UNESCO. Being weak in the history department, I always thought that slavery was initiated by the "White Man" and was surprised to learn that Kingdoms like the Dan-Homey used their powers to be in a constant state of war, thereby allowing a never-ending flow of prisoners for their slave trade! The royal armies also included warrior women. (Go girl!)

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Benin map

Continue reading "Abomey, Benin and More Voodoo in West Africa" »

December 23, 2006

Gelede Fon Mask Festival in West Africa

The Gelede masquerade tradition developed in the Ketu region of Yorubaland (present-day western Nigeria). This large-scale festival celebrates the spiritual powers of elderly women, who protect the community's well-being. The masks are specifically made for the celebration (used masks are patched) with elaborate, superstructures, and consist of both human and animal faces. The Gelede dancers are all men, but represent both men and women in their performance.

This ceremony started with the by now, usual routine...arriving at the village (whatever it was called)...View image...getting the group seated...View image...gathering of the entire village in anticipation...and the drummers in position...

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drummers

Continue reading "Gelede Fon Mask Festival in West Africa" »

December 22, 2006

Benin - Ceremonies and Festivals in West Africa

We entered Benin and visited Ganvie, Africa's largest village on stilts. Ganvie is spread across Lac Nokoue with the wood and thatch houses built above the water. When the Dan-Homey kings armies were capturing people in the countryside to sell in the Portuguese slave trade, the people of Ganvie were saved from slavery by the Dan-Homey religious traditions...they were forbidden to attack communities on the water.

The people in this unique fishing village live exclusively from fishing (along with a little tourism), use pirogues (canoes) and have a system of underwater plantings that form fences to trap and breed fish. You can visit by catching a motorized boat or pirogue across the lagoon. ...View image...

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fishing on Lac Nokoue

Continue reading "Benin - Ceremonies and Festivals in West Africa" »

December 21, 2006

A Voodoo Ceremony in Togo, West Africa

Later, we were invited (and you must be invited) to attend a real voodoo ceremony in a local village with dancing and drumming. The village was very serious about this and it was not just a money-making gimmack for the village. The word "voodoo" is traceable to an African word meaning "spirit" and practictioners were taken as slaves to Haiti, still a major center for voodoo. There are different forms of voodoo: Fetishes (items sold in the Togo Voodoo Market, e.g. the dried bats), spirit possession and sacrifices. Today's ceremony would involve spirit possession. The Ewe-speaking people have a strong attachment to animist beliefs even though many of them are Christians.

First Roberto got us settled in the background in the yard of a small compound surrounded by huts while the entire village assembled. The Ewe consider twins especially auspicious and lucky...many bronzes and wood carving show representations of twins...and one woman was nursing her twins at the same time...

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waiting for the "spirit possession"

Continue reading "A Voodoo Ceremony in Togo, West Africa" »

December 20, 2006

Togo, Voodoo and A Traditional Healer - West Africa

Throughout this trip at various border checks, a "money trader" would come on our vehicles carrying bags of money. He would then convert whatever we needed at black market rates. If there were too many military police standing around that hadn't already received their daily graft, Godfried or Roberto would take our $$ and disappear behind a shack...materializing with wads of money. This trip was over Christmas and New Years and the usual comment from police, military or anyone that you wanted something from was..."do you have a Christmas present for me?" This is part of doing business in Africa and Roberto always knew exactly how many CFA's or other cash to give them.

Togo is a small but interesting, French-speaking country. Lome, the capital, is a city of about 800,000, founded by the Eye tribe in the 18th century. Around 1884, the German colonial invasion started the the region became the capital of German Togoland. Lome is small, easy to get around and the ocean is only a few blocks from the center of town.

Continue reading "Togo, Voodoo and A Traditional Healer - West Africa" »

December 19, 2006

Accra to Sogakope - West Africa

There were only four other persons in our Mountain Travel group beside us. Two others had cancelled for health reasons. (That's why you need travel insurance.)

The trip was officially begun with a morning tour of Accra. The most unusual point of interest was the district of the carpenters in an eastern suburb. They have a thriving business making caskets! Not ordinary caskets, but elaborate colorful caskets in the forms of airplanes, fruits, buildings and animals. The carpenters build to their client's specifications. You decide exactly what kind of personalized coffin to bury your family member in, they can do it in a week. Or decide on one for yourself, hopefully, years before it is needed... If cremation wasn't my choice, something in the shape of a Burger would be right up my alley! What about you?

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a nice cow coffin

Continue reading "Accra to Sogakope - West Africa" »

December 18, 2006

Time Spent in Lome, Togo - West Africa

An easy border crossing into Togo, arriving at the Hotel Mercure Sarakawa our destination for two nights. Lome is known for its excellent shopping - far more interesting than seeing its few sights.

A big plus on any trip is a chance to meet and visit with people who actually live in the country and join in their celebrations. Roberto was holding huge baptism ceremony in his home that evening and we were invited. We brought along a little outfit from America as a gift for the baby and had a great time meeting friends and relatives of the family. Roberto's gorgeous wife, and equally beautiful sisters, had concocted a huge feast, and it was a privilege to attend and participate.

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Togo map

Continue reading "Time Spent in Lome, Togo - West Africa" »

December 17, 2006

Accra to Akossombo, Ghana, West Africa

As usual, a half-dead arrival in Accra, Ghana after marathon hours in the air. Godfried, assistant to Roberto on the main tour, met us at the airport and transfered us to the Novotel. Godfried was also going to be our guide on this extension.

Accra, Ghana's capital (population over two million), was founded around 1500 by the Ga tribe. The Ga began trading with the Portuguese - slaves, gold and palm oil. The Ashanti gained control at the beginning of the 19th century but eventually lost it to the British.

Semi-refreshed the next morning, we drove to Akossombo with its largest man-made lake in the world. The shoreline measures almost 3,100 miles. We visited the hydroelectric dam there which created Lake Volta. The dam provides electricity to Ghana and surrounding West African countries.

Continue reading "Accra to Akossombo, Ghana, West Africa" »

December 16, 2006

Planning Ghana, Togo and Benin - West Africa

Air? This involved flying to and from Accra, Ghana. We flew Chicago to Frankfurt on United, and used miles for the Frankfurt-Accra portion on Lufthansa. Lufthansa has a superb web of routes all over the world and we've found it to be more cost-effective (especially in the Winter) to buy a ticket to Europe and then use miles for the next leg of the trip. Other airlines: Alitalia, American Airlines, British Airways, Northwest - many choices. (Lowest International airfares Economy Travel
)

Visas? You need for all three countries including multiple entries for Ghana and Togo. None of these countries let you get visas upon arrival. We used Zierer Visa Service rather than Fedexing back and forth to consulates in Washington, DC, eliminating the entire hassle-factor.

Continue reading "Planning Ghana, Togo and Benin - West Africa" »

December 15, 2006

The "Golden Kingdoms" of West Africa

After experiencing West Africa's "Timbuktu & Beyond" (read previous articles) with the incomparable Roberto, we were eager for more. And Mountain Travel Sobek had another one in their brochure, "African Golden Kingdoms."

This trip also took place in West Africa, visting the three different and fascinating countries of Ghana, Togo and Benin. A 17-day comprehensive immersion into their tribal worlds with nine nights in hotels and five nights camping. Each departure also included a special festival and ours, over Christmas, 2001, was the Gelede Fon Mask festival in Benin. There is a saying that..."you visit East Africa for the animals, and West Africa to see the people"...and based on Mali, we heartily agree.

Shopping for Adventure? Find books, videos, maps, gifts, and more at the National Geographic Store!

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area of West Africa

Continue reading "The "Golden Kingdoms" of West Africa" »

December 14, 2006

Hand-Outs While Traveling

It's difficult to keep our "giving/helping" instincts in tow when traveling through poor countries. Children standing along the roads in West Africa calling, "bickee, one bickee, one bickee" (Bic pens)..."cadeau, cadeau"..."bon-bon, bon-bon" (in French West Africa, cadeau is "present" and bon-bon a "candy")....East Africa, "gimme mawnee, gimme mawnee, gimmee mawnee" - repeated as quickly as possible until both words become a blur...beggers... hard not to give!

Don't do it! We recently came back from Uganda/Rwanda (watch for series on Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda in January, 2007) and witnessed an incident that was frightening and could have been disasterous for the children.

Continue reading "Hand-Outs While Traveling" »

Back to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah's Gateway - Borneo

In the morning, there was a short jungle walk behind the lodge. For birdwatchers, there are hornbills, kingfishers (we saw one), egrets, darters, owls, kites, eagles, broadbills, doves, storm storks, herons, hawks, ospreys, and many others. My birding consists of ..."what's that green bird...ooh...that one is yellow..."...and so forth. Lots of different primates, snakes and birds...the trip here was a big success with the exception of wild Orangutans - very difficult to see in the wild.

By boat back up the Kinabatangan River to Sandakan to catch a plane back to Kota Kinabalu and a transfer to the Shangri La Tanjung Aru Resort.

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view of Mount Kinabalu from the plane

Continue reading "Back to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah's Gateway - Borneo" »

December 13, 2006

Gomantang Caves and Sukau, Borneo

Visited Gomantong Caves, famous for edible bird's nest. Have you heard of Bird's Nest Soup? If so, this is one of the areas where the makings originate. Over 1,000 Swifts nest in this cave and only two varieties of swifts make edible birds nests. Twice a year, men climb bamboo ladders to over 150 feet to collect the nests off the cave walls. They harvest between March-April an August-September and were busy collecting the nests while we were there. Good quality birds nests can fetch more than US$ 200 per pound and these collectors make a good income doing this! Highly dangerous and they deserve every $ they can earn from this. Just looking at those flimsy ladders was enough to give us "flop-sweats." The limestone cave had two caverns filled with bats, swifts and cockroaches everywhere ...crunching beneath our feet, climbing up the walls, Ick...ick... ick.

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inside the cave

Continue reading "Gomantang Caves and Sukau, Borneo" »

December 12, 2006

Inexpensive Worldwide Vacations with Explore

I never recommend any tour operator that we haven't used and been satisfied with. Explore U.K. is one of my best finds for relatively inexpensive vacations (in comparison to American tour operators) around the world. This is what the word, "inexpensive" means to me...

A trip that includes: hotels and/or small pensions; air within countries when needed; all other transport; excellent guides; breakfasts and sometimes dinners; and more. You can read about some of our in-depth experiences on this website. Below are some of the trips that we have taken with Explore along with the 2006 costs:

9 days in Cyprus $730

11 days in Sicily $1,325 (read 7/28/06)

8 days in Mallorca $730 (read 5/16/06)

14 days in Spain $1,020

14 days in Tunisia $1,040 (read 11/6/06)


Continue reading "Inexpensive Worldwide Vacations with Explore" »

Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, Borneo

We planned to visit Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary ( 26 km from Sandakan) after overnighting on Selingan Island. The next morning our boat prepared to leave for the 2-3 hour ride back to Sandakan....View image...

The Sepilok Orangutan sanctuary was about a 15 minute drive. Orang utans ("wild man of Borneo") that have been abandoned by their mothers or formerly in captivity are rehabilatated until fit enough to be returned to the wild. They are fed bananas and milk daily and are encouraged to forage for themselves. But even those in the wild come back for the free bananas. Babies stay with their mothers for up to six years in the wild while they learn survival skills. At Sepilok, a young ape is paired up with an older "buddy" to learn these skills. There are about 60-80 Orangs living in the sanctuary, an open forest reserve where the orangutans are free-roaming. Wild Borneo: The Wildlife and Scenery of Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei, and Kalimantan

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Sepilok Orang utan Sanctuary

Continue reading "Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, Borneo" »

December 11, 2006

Harrah's Buffet and Marriott Time-share in Las Vegas

It was back to Harrah's for their buffet to use our 2-for-1 coupon. Since Las Vegas is two hours behind Chicago time-wise, a 3:30pm buffet was equivalent to our semi-normal 5:30pm dinner time. This is definitely the best deal, going late in the afternoon and eating for a few hours. Again, there is so much to choose from andshort lines at that time. I can guarantee that you'll find on the buffet that you like.

Every buffet we looked at had: Sushi stations; carving stations; Italian; Mexican; Chinese; Japanese; Fruit; Seafood; different salads and huge selections of desserts. I pigged out...again...a little more choosy this time...on my favorite Sushi, Mexican, Beef, Chinese and Seafood. At 4:00pm, most Hotel buffets add crab legs and steak to the line-up. The crab legs aren't Alaskan King Crab Legs by any stretch of the imagination but it you like Crab Legs...go for it.

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Harrah's chocolate fountain with strawberries for dipping

Continue reading "Harrah's Buffet and Marriott Time-share in Las Vegas" »

Kota Kinabalu to Selingan Island, Turtle Island National Park, Borneo

Sandakan, located on the Sulu Sea, at the northeastern tip of Borneo is Malaysia's biggest fishing port. We were going to spend the night on Selingan Island, part of Turtle Island National Park. This is one of the most important Green and Hawksbill turtle breeding spots in Southeast Asia. Green turtles swim hundreds of nautrical miles across the sea, but always return to the beach where they hatched to lay their eggs some 20 or more years later.

Turtle Island was about an hour boat ride from Sandakan but before we left, spent some time walking around Sandakan and learning a few facts about the town. Sandakan served as a major port for early settlers (primarily Chinese) to Sabah and was the former capital of British North Borneo from the years 1884-1946. After WWII the capital was transferred to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu). In the early as a major port for early settlers to Sabah, and most Chinese came through this port.

Continue reading "Kota Kinabalu to Selingan Island, Turtle Island National Park, Borneo" »

December 10, 2006

Caesar's Palace, The Venetian and Bellagio

Part of the fun was walking into every deluxe hotel (and some not so deluxe) on the Strip and eyeing the buffets, Christmas decorations and people. I've heard the catchphrase..."what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas"...but we primarily saw families with children, and couples walking around. And it seemed as if most of the people were either speaking Spanish, Chinese or Japanese. Lots and lots of foreign visitors and each one talking photos.

In the late '70's and early '80's, the Riviera Hotel was our home-away-from-home and we even attended a wedding at the Candlelight Chapel across the street from the Riviera. This is what the Candlelight Chapel looks like now with graffiti all over it...and the Riviera had added on so many times that it was unrecognizable...

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Candlelight Chapel

Continue reading "Caesar's Palace, The Venetian and Bellagio" »

The Sultanate of Brunei on The Island of Borneo

Out of the jungle for a quick day trip to Brunei, a small very oil-rich sultanate. What a change to leave the rainforest for Islamic Brunei, officially the Sultanate of Brunei, has a higher GP per person than the United States. It is located on the coastline of the South China Sea, and completely surrounded by the State of Sarawak. There are two unconnected parts to Brunei and our car had to ferry from one side to the other.

But before the road trip, Jacob, our wonderful guide took us to a shop that had some older items to satisfy my "hunting-gathering" instinct. My purchases? An older bead necklace with a leopard's tooth on it and one of those beaded baby carriers. The natives each create their own baby carrier while pregnant...spending months weaving the bamboo or rattan, designing and handbeading it. (I almost feel this "possession/compulsion" taking hold of me. What did I need a baby carrier for? Even if it is semi-rare.)

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native baby carrier

Continue reading "The Sultanate of Brunei on The Island of Borneo" »

December 09, 2006

Las Vegas Time-shares and The Monte Carlo Buffet

A person could subsidize their Las Vegas stay just by visiting Time-shares (and probably, some do). It was impossible to walk through any Hotel, on or off the Strip, without someone offering shows, meals and cash for spending 1-2 hours listening to a pitch on time-shares.

The Las Vegas Strip was filled with Condos being built, time-share buildings, older Casinos and Hotels being imploded (the Stardust is the next to go in January, 2007) and construction cranes everywhere. I would think that construction is "the business" to be in if you don't own a Casino. Vegas residents told us..."if you want to work, there's a job to be had"...

Tip #3: If you decide to visit a timeshare, bring I.D. We committed to a spiel and, silly me, had left I.D. back in the Monte Carlo safe. No I.D., no money...and we had negotiated for $100 for a two-hour pitch.

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Las Vegas construction everywhere

Continue reading "Las Vegas Time-shares and The Monte Carlo Buffet" »

Mulu National Park, Borneo

You have to fly from Miro to Mulu on a small plane with weight allowances. Not only do they weigh your small bag but your must also declare your weight! The flight was less than 30 minutes over rainforest - dense vegetation, rivers and mountains.

The Royal Mulu Resort was a luxurious retreat built entirely on stilts and our home for two days . ...View image... One sentence in their literature stated "...hike through a Dipterocarp rainforest past Belian (ironwood) trees that may be as ancient as 1,000 years old, immense buttressed figs and poison dart trees..." Can't get away from those poison darts! ...View image...


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Mulu map

Continue reading "Mulu National Park, Borneo" »

December 08, 2006

Buffets in Las Vegas

Tip #2: Everyone in Las Vegas walks around in blue jeans. It isn't necessary to bring lots of clothes unless you want to get dressed up.

We headed to the Rio Hotel for their Carnival Buffet given raves by all we know, and hyped as Las Vegas' best buffet. In the 29 years of visiting Las Vegas, we've always avoided buffets because:

a. Hate to wait in line.
b. Like to sit at a table and be served.
c. Buffets had a reputation for inferior food.

Perhaps that was true at one time but not now! How wrong could two people be... Every hotel has daily buffets for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. The Rio Carnival Lunch Buffet is served from 11:00am to 3:30pm, $15.99 and we had a $5 off per person coupon. The Dinner Buffet runs from 3:30-10:00pm and no one is going to think twice if you want to sit and eat from 11:00am to 10:00pm.

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Rio Carving Station

Continue reading "Buffets in Las Vegas" »

Kuching to Miri, Borneo

After one of the sweatiest, most uncomfortable nights of my life, we had breakfast and hightailed it into our dugout to head downstream. The river was very low and our guide and boat owner had to push us off sandbars and rocks many times but we finally got to the Hilton Batang Ai.

A nature walk there was almost as scary as hiking in the jungle with the Ibans. The naturalist kept telling everyone..."watch out for those hook-like thorns...they'll rip your skin off"....or ..."stay away from that hole...there could be a poisonous snake in it"... and the jungle trails were very narrow. Borneo is not a tame environment...and I was already scared *#*#**##! At times like these, I have to rethink the whole adventure scenario...

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Hilton Batang Ai

Continue reading "Kuching to Miri, Borneo" »

December 07, 2006

Arriving In Las Vegas

I am the first person to shoot off nasty e-mails to United complaining about their service, planes and personnel but TED was a unexpected pleasure. Pleasant flight attendants and a good flight. It was very cold in Las Vegas when we arrived (think upper 20's) but sunny with blue skies and we didn't come to sit by the swimming pool. If basking and 120 degree temperatures don't suit you, visit when it's cooler.) Many others have said this before me...there is no other city in the world even close to Las Vegas in impact. Where else do you arrive at an airport and see rows of slot machines? ...View image...

You won't do this...we did...walked from McCarran Airport to The Monte Carlo Hotel since our only luggage was two little backpacks. There is sidewalk all the way. Remember, our trip was not about fancy dining or shows. It's only about 2+ miles and we are great walkers. This wasn't a money-saving issue...you can take a shuttle to any hotel on the Strip for around $5/person and there is also public transportation. It just felt great to get outside and walk...and so interesting approaching the Strip on foot...past the MGM Grand, New York-New York, and Paris Hotels...each and every one unique. ...View image...

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Paris

Continue reading "Arriving In Las Vegas" »

Batang Ai and Iban Longhouse, Borneo

From Kuching, we drove through the countryside and along a mountain ridge to the Ai River to begin a 3 days/2 night Batang Ali combination. It was over a three hour drive to the Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort and from there, we got into our longboat (a large motor-powered canoe), to travel upstream on the Lemanak River.

Our destination was Nanga Sumpa, a large Iban (formerly known as Sea Dayaks) longhouse for a two-night stay. An Iban longhouse is a single building in which each family has their own apartment and shares a large common space for social activities. Today, the longhouses are fairly modern, with electricity and other modern conveniences. A far cry from their infamous headhunting days.

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ex-Marine ready for Longboat travel upriver

Continue reading "Batang Ai and Iban Longhouse, Borneo" »

December 06, 2006

Enjoying Las Vegas On Very Little Money

When our adult children visit Las Vegas, they stay at Bellago, The Venetian, Caesars Palace spending up to and over $200 a night. They also eat at Spago, see multiple shows and gamble.

ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and I visit Las Vegas looking for the least expensive (decent) hotel we can find and food bargains. I don't gamble at all (absolutely detest losing even one dollar) and ex-Marine risks very little. In his younger days, ex-Marine was one of those people whose gambling loses helped build Las Vegas into what it is today and no longer wants to contribute to its success! Not that Vegas needs him! They have a 60 BILLION DOLLAR complex going up over the next 10 years between Monte Carlo and Bellagio with, I think, 15 casinos and condos.

It's been over five years since our last visit. Time for an impromptu two-day trip to see the changes, have some fun and spend as little as humanly possible.

Continue reading "Enjoying Las Vegas On Very Little Money" »

Bako National Park, Borneo

A ride out of Kuching to Bako National Park. Bako covers the northern tip of the peninsula and has a wide range of vegetation - swamp forest,s mangrove forests, and beaches. It also had a number of well-marked trails covering 19 miles throughout the park - offering strolls and serious full-day hikes.

It only took about 35 minutes to drive to Bako Village from Kuching. From the village, it was another 25 minutes by boat to the Park. Bako has been a National Park since 1957 and is one of the best places in Sarawak to see wildlife in natural surroundings.

Long-tailed macaque and silver monkeys, proboscis monkeys (the male can have up to 10 mates in his harem), wild boars, monitor lizards and numerous species of birds abound in Bako. And then there was the plant life - specifically, carnivorious pitcher plants. (Remember, Little Shop of Horrors with the plant "feed me"?)

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I think this was a proboscis monkey

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December 05, 2006

Kuching, Borneo

Kuching is the capital of Sarawak, Malaysia's largest state, and uniquely positioned along the Sarawak River. At the beginning of the 19th century, Sarawak was a Malay principality under the control of the Sultan of Brunei until 1839. James Brooke (an English adventurer) used his ship to put down a rebellion again the Brunei Governor and was given the principality of Sarawak as a reward. The Brooke family ruled Sarawak until the Japanese invasion in 1941.

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Kuching Map

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December 04, 2006

Planning A Trip to Borneo

This trip was handled by Julie, an agent we had used many times before (unfortunately, she is no longer in business...instead, part of her family's winery in Napa). Julie then booked everything with Discovery Overland Holidays in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Lots of e-mails until we came up with an itinerary. Our focus would be fouring Borneo's National Parks with a little R&R at the end in Kota Kinabalu. The parks were:

- Bako;
- Batang Ai;
- Gunung Mulu;
- Selingan, Turtle Island; and
- Sepilok Orang Santuary

With the time needed for travel from the U.S. and between all these places, it worked out to a 17-day trip. Time to work on the rest of the trip...

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December 03, 2006

Malaysia's Exotic Borneo

I don't know what you think of when you hear the word "Borneo" but I think of Orangutans. ex-Marine (husband, Steve) was in the Borneo jungles during his Marine Corps days participating in a little altercation. To him, the word "Borneo" means mud, rain, leeches, poisonous snakes, heat and humidity. We were definitely on two different wave lengths.

Borneo is a place with lots of jungles, leeches, poisonous snakes, etc., but also has National Parks, white sand beaches and Orangutans - both in the wild and sanctuaries.

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Borneo Map

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December 02, 2006

Last Day in Kathmandu, Nepal

Lucky, lucky us! Another breath-takingly gorgeous day and the planes are coming... (da plane boss, da plane..) No delays ...View image...just a matter of loading everyone and everything on the plane and it was back to Kathmandu.

On the very short flight, the scenery changed from those "completely beyond description Himalayas"....to plateaus...and then the relatively flat rivers and plains as we approached Kathmandu.

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plateau
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rivers and plains

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December 01, 2006

Back Down to Lukla, Nepal

Back to Namche Bazaar the next day to camp ....in the same Guesthouse courtyard as before, ...View image...same two-person-two-hole toilet outhouse (encourages friendship or, of course, you could use it by yourself)... View image...

Time for lots of photos, interaction with our Sherpas and people along the way going up and down...stopping for hot lemon tea breaks. Breathing is easy going down but oh so hard on the knees!

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our Sherpa who had summited Everest

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