 |
|
|
« October 2006 |
Main
| December 2006 »
If you have ever seen any movie or documentary about Everest, Tengboche features prominently. It is the spiritual center of the Khumbu and a training center for new monks. The Rimpoche of Tengboche lives here and the area is consdered holy. Expeditions traditionally stop here to receive the blessing of the High Lama, and nothing may be hunted or killed in this area.
The original Monastery was destroyed by fire in 1989 and this is the new one. ...View image... Once again, the sky was blue...the sunlight intense...Mount Everest and every other Himalayan Mountain in this area...were displayed in all their majesty.
Tengboche Stupa
Continue reading "Tengboche Monastery, Nepal" »
Tengboche was going to be the highlight of our trek, located on a saddle in a clearing with a panaroma in front us. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Kantega and Thamserku, all over 6,000 metres (21,000') high. But first we had to get there.
Up...and...up....and....up...and it started snowing...and getting colder. It was time to put down the packs, get out the Goretex pants and layer up. While we were doing all this, porters and people were still passing us on the trail carrying those incredible loads.
how much more could a person possibly carry
Continue reading "From Khumjung To Tengboche, Nepal" »
A visit to Thame Monastery. ex-Marine and I didn't go into the Monastery with the group. (A big case of been-there-done-it.) It was a cold but dry, crip morning and the thought of taking boots off and walking into the Monastery with bare feet didn't excite us. Instead, spent the time outside with Sherpa Lo Pa, spinning prayer wheels (always clockwise) and taking in the views.
After our Thame Monastery visit, we headed to Khumjung at 12,475'. There is also a Monastery/Gompa there which had ("so they say") the skull of a yeti or abominable snowman. It was analyzed by scientists and the scalp is from a member of the antelope family. It's still a good story though.
outside Thame Monastery with Lo Pa
prayer wheels
Continue reading "Thame Monastery and Khumjung, Nepal" »
The next morning we started out for Thame still uphill, to Shyangboche and the Hotel Everest View. The Everest View is the highest located hotel in the world and commands a spectacular view of Mt. Everest. Every room in the hotel has oxygen (which is needed if you fly directly here) along with panoramic views of Everest and other peaks including Ama Dablam (this was the mountain that knocked my socks off earlier).
Many Japanese tourists fly in and out of Shyangboche where the Hotel has a private landing strip. They arrive either by small plane or helicopter, and then walk 45-minutes to the Everest View. We were fortunate that this day was sunny and bright with no clouds around Everest or any of the Himalayas. Great opportunities for photos and absorbing the fact that here we were...really standing here...looking at Everest. (Truthfully, Everest isn't half as dramatic or beautiful as Ama Damblam and the other Himalayas surrounding us. Visit and decide for yourself.)
Mt. Everest way behind us with the clouds trailing off the top
Continue reading "Trekking to Thame, Nepal" »
Pick a country in Europe...France, Austria, Switzerland or Italy. It's not too early to make reservations for Winter, 2007...and it may be too late. Colorado and Utah have wonderful ski resorts but Europe has most of the biggest ski circuses in the world. You can ski from country-to-country, across borders, during one day. Expensive? The airfare is the most expensive part but there are wonderful fares right now that bring the costs w--a--y-- down. An example: AA Switzerland Air Sale to Zurich from $379! (ends 12/4)
ex-Marine and I are heading to St. Moritz to snowshoe in March (read today's "Better Fitness" article in the Parade edition of your newspaper for more about snowshoeing) and St. Moritz offers "Tophit" packages, ranging from 2 day/2 night-7 day/7 night, including: all lifts, local transportation, hotel with full breakfast. The costs? A Basic hotel will run $514 US, a Deluxe Hotel, $1,300 US. Compare these prices with $546 for a 7-day Aspen/Snowmass lift ticket.
Continue reading "Skiing In Europe" »
The next day was a rest day to acclimitize. After breakfast, Sanjeev had a short hike planned for our group, up above Namche to the Sagarmatha National Park Visitor's Center and Museum. The Museum had displays on the culture, geography, geology, etc., within the park and Khumbu region. Our head sherpa had summited Everest several times and his photo (along with his summit group) was on the wall in the Center. There was also quite an Nepal Army presence there...alert against any Maoists...and no photographs were allowed.
We moved in slow motion....difficulty breathing...still on our way up, when suddenly the most incredible vista of snow-capped giants suddenly appeared before us. Awe-struck, I started to cry. It was just so beyond words and literally "heavenly" that it was easy to understand why these mountains are considered sacred and home of the Gods. How, I wondered, could it ever get more beautiful than this....View image There is absolutely no way that a photo can possibly convey our emotion upon seeing them.
Continue reading "A Day Around Namche Bazaar, Nepal" »
Trekking to Everest is not exactly a stroll in a secluded park, (remote, yes...secluded, no) quietly enjoying the forests and birds. It resembled the Chicago Kennedy Expressway at Rush Hour! There is only one trail used by one and all, including the Yaks and Zuikos, a cross between a Yak and Cow. They are big animals and you had just better keep out of their way.
And forget about watching your steps to avoid all the "Yak/Zuiko poop"...impossible...it just wore off our boots as we huffed-and-puffed along.
Yaks/Zukios crossing the bridge
Continue reading "On The Way to Namche Bazaar, Nepal" »
The group transferred to the airport for our Lukla flight. Good news...the weather was slightly cloudy but considered "good" and all flights were a go. Only STOL's fly to Lukla at 9,200'...because the landing strip is exactly 1,729' long with a 65' runway...perched on top of a mountain...surrounded by more mountains. This had to be one of the most visually spectacular, not to mention thrilling landings we've ever experienced! (Watching our approach as that very little runway came closer, and closer...thinking..."are we going to land on that?"...was amazing.)
After getting off the plane safely - we watched plane after plane come in...unload passengers...reload the outgoings and take off again ...View image...- the sherpa guides, porters and pack animals were waiting for us...ready to start the trek after a fast breakfast. Organized commotion in a tiny area.
Himalaya views flying in
Continue reading "A Flight Into Lukla and The Trek Began!, Nepal" »
I'd like to take a moment to wish all my readers and fellow travelers a most healthy and enjoyable Thanksgiving. Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday of the year with yummy cooking (I'm a pretty good cook if I do say so myself...) and time to spend with dear family and friends. Forget about hiking, running, walking, lifting weights or doing an kind of exercise...just eat...that's what I plan to do.
Keep reading daily...for upcoming series on:
- Borneo;
- Chimps, tree-climbing lions, and gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda;
- The Golden Kingdoms of West Africa; and
- The Himachal Pradesh, India.
just to name a few places...
Have a most wonderful Thanksgiving,
Sheila
An easy visa-on-arrival, met and greeted by our trip leader, Sanjeev, a graduate of Delhi University who has been leading treks in Nepal since 1990. Malla Treks is a joint venture with Mountain Travel Sobek and Malla was the Kathmandu agency who would take care of the entire Nepal trip.
Our full group of 16 were bused to the Malla Hotel, only a short distance from Durbar Square, Thamel and the many bazaars...and a stone's throw from the Presidential Palace. A beautiful hotel, ideally located.
A short briefing about the trek, maps handed out and Kathmandu orientation. Sanjeev had the group introduce themselves to each other along with a little bit of background. It was a surprise to ex-Marine and myself to find that more than half of our group had never trekked before. This was a once-in-a-lifetime trip for them and they made a concerted effort to get in shape by exercising rigorously. One person even stopped smoking to prepare. There were four married couples, including MTS's Senior Accountant Pam and her husband, John, and a few other women traveling on their own.
Continue reading "Arriving in Kathmandu, Nepal" »
The "Everest Escapade" started and ended in Kathmandu, Nepal.
Air? We flew United, Chicago to Bangkok, and then Thai Air from Bangkok to Kathmandu. Tip: If you fly Thai Air from Bangkok, ask for a seat on the right side of the plane for the best views (if it's a clear day). There are many other ways you can go including the India to Kathmandu route. And an infinite number of airlines flying internationally, but only a few making the internal flight into Kathmandu. These flights are always booked and overbooked. Also, you have to connect somewhere in Asia to get to Nepal....
Visas? Must have a Nepalese visa. Don't need a Thai visa. How to obtain one? Could use a visa service like Zierer, contact the Nepal Consulate and handle via mail or do it the easy way (for us)...get the visa upon arrival at the airport in Kathmandu. Always doublecheck -- Visa requirements are constantly changing.
Continue reading "Everest Details and Planning, Nepal" »
Way back when, in our younger days, "ex-Marine" (husband, Steve) and I did a one-week easy trek out of Pokara, Nepal into the Annapurnas. It was our first time trekking and the stupifying Himalayas left an indelible impression.
Years later, countless Everest articles, documentaries and specials (can you believe it has been 10 years since that well-documented disaster), it was finally decided that we had to see Mt. Everest for ourselves. Not the complete trek to Everest Base Camp...that might have been beyond our capabilities because of the altitude...but Mountain Travel Sobek's "Everest Escapade" fit the bill. Mountain Travel has been arranging trips to Nepal since the 1960's and organized the first commercial treks there.
Nepal Map
Continue reading "Our Everest Escapade, Nepal" »
We flew on Tunis Air (a one hour flight) to Djerba, a flat Mediterranean island off the southern coast of Tunisia. It is joined to the mainland by a 6 km causeway built on a Roman foundation. Djerba has more than 145,000 inhabitants (primarily of Berber origin).
The island is covered with palm trees and flowers - actually, it is a huge oasis with more than 1,000,000 date palms and 700,000 olives trees. Some of the olive trees are over 3,000 years old!
In Homer's Odyssey, Djerba was the home of the "Lotus Eaters." Ulysses almost lost his men when the beautiful maidens of the island fed them lotus flowers. I had never read the Odyssey but had heard of Djerba. The islanders like to claim that Ulysses was their first tourist.
Continue reading "Isle of Djerba/Jerba, Tunisia" »
It was now time for the ultimate in Tunisia's Roman sites (other than the El Djem Amphitheatre) - Bulla Regia and Dougga. Dougga, in particular, is an extremely famous Roman site.
Bulla Regia was first mentioned by Latin sources in 81 BC. More than three quarters of the site is still underground and the houses with an underground level is what most visitors come to see. The Bulla houses are the site's distinctive feature - the only city to have two-story dwellings with one floor underground. This feature protected against the heat in the summer and cold in the winter. We climbed down crumbly steps to see the beautiful mosaics still remaining in the underground portions of the houses - one house named "House of the Fisherman." Some of the mosaics have been removed to the Bardo Museum in Tunis. ...View image...
Bulla Regia mosaic
Continue reading "Bulla Regia and Dougga, Tunisia" »
On the drive to and from Le Kef, you could see nomad's tents scattered in the desert. Occasionally, we stopped at scenic view points and walked through little villages - up to some old ruins, into little shops, and other breaks to stretch our legs.
My favorite sight was the morning "goat" round-up. A little girl or boy would walk through the village, stopping at each home to pick up their goats. She (or he) added them to the increasing flock - chasing after wayward goats, walked to the next home and when all goats were accounted for, herded them out to graze for the day. ...View image... A really sensible system of goat-herding since every family we saw had its own flock. In this way, everyone else was free to work in the fields.
Sheila and her flock
Continue reading "Roman Ruins of Sbeitla (Sufetia) and Le Kef, Tunisia" »
Beginning November 20, watch for my series of articles on trekking around the Mount Everest region with the ex-Marine (husband, Steve) and Mountain Travel-Sobek. The political situation in Nepal seems to have settled down for now and it's not too early to start thinking about a Spring, 2007 trek in Nepal - a great time to visit. Clear mountain vistas and a wonderful trek...
Other than shopping, there was an option to go visit another Star Wars village (we didn't go) and a day walk scheduled around Tamerza, almost on the Algerian border. Tamerza was another village situated in a huge valley oasis with lots of palm trees. ... View image...
We hiked up to Mides, a little oasis which owes its fertility to many little mountain streams. The water is tapped by wells and carried through a system of underground channels. Mides is an abandoned village on a cliff face and after exploring it, we walked through a valley - looking for fossils along the stream, enjoying the extremely stark beauty of the canyon, eating a picnic lunch, taking our time and exploring with "Explore."
Mides
views from the mountains
Continue reading "Hiking By The Algerian Border in Tunisia" »
Busing to Tozeur, we came across some young men selling pieces of amethyst at a stand along the road - certainly not gem quality - and I traded my old Timex watch for seven chunks of amethyst as presents for grandchildren. You can always offer to trade something when shopping...one never knows...and watches (this one was $5 from a flea market) are highly desirable. There was another stall selling "sand roses" - a name given to rosette formations of gypsum and barite because they look like roses.
The "sand rose" crystals form in arid sandy conditions, are dug up by the locals and sold all over desert areas of Africa. ...View image... Bought some of those also. I like to bring home souvenirs that are semi-educational and different...not the "...my grandma brought me back a t-shirt..." Fossils, country flags, toys made out of tin cans from Africa, Tibetan prayer flags, coins, etc.
Crossed the Chott El Jerid - the largest salt flats in the Sahara. They told us we could see mirages - and - we could! Very strangely colored salt flats, some with big crystals. ... View image... White, purple and pinks, all reflecting different colors depending on the direction you were looking.
salt flats of Chott El Jerid
Continue reading "Tozeur, Tunisia" »
You may never have heard of "Harissa" before. ( I know I didn't before this trip.) Harissa, is a spicy chili-garlic condiment that is made from oil, garlic cloves, chili paste, cumin, chili powder, and other ingredients and plays an important role in the Tunisian diet.
Continue reading "Eating Harissa in Tunisia" »
Forget the camel trek, we stayed at the comfortable Hotel Saharien-Paradise, in Douz and enjoyed ourselves tremendously. What did we do for two days? Other than sitting by the swimming pool and enjoying the "aloneness" of being by ourselves...
- Shopped for rugs...yes, we bought more...for our adult children. When you can buy a one-of-a-kind, handmade 3 x 5 rug for under $40 dollars, it's hard to resist. A comparable, factory-made bath mat at home costs about the same. Every shop arorund the square had rugs and carpets laid out on the sand, flapping in the wind with the very hospitable dealers and people to converse with.
- Walked out into the desert every day to watch the camels and tourists, having some great laughs at their expense. View image
Mr. Personality
Continue reading "Douz, Tunisia" »
On the way to Zaafrane, we stopped to visit the tiny village of Tamezret. View image This little walled village had very few inhabitants, but we visited the home of one family. The family had a few goats, one mule and several children. (I loved the pink Barbie purse..... View image
....The husband and wife were very hospitable and enjoyed demonstrating grinding and other aspects of their daily life. View image
grinding meal
One of our people (brave man) even tried on this "flea-infested" robe...exactly like Obi's and posed with the family mule/donkey (whatever it is). After seeing this robe, it was obvious where the Star War's designer got his ideas. I later noticed them for sale in the Souks, surprisingly expensive, unfortunately! A fleeting thought ran through my mind about it being a great souvenir for grandchildren until I saw the cost....too bad.
fake Obi-Wan
Continue reading "Zaafrane, Tunisia" »
Matmata is a small village in southern Tunisia -- famous for underground structures still used by some of the local Berbers. The homes were created by digging a large pit and enlarging into artifical caves used as rooms. (Troglodyte means "cave dweller" in Latin...I hadn't even heard of the word until Matmata.) These "invisible villages" were first mentioned in the 4th century and are quite sensible...cool in the summer and warm in the winter. A huge "Matmata" sign is visible on a mountain as you draw nearer. Probably, thanks to the Matmata Tourist Bureau...bring those $$$... View image
If you've seen the famous Star Wars movie (is there anybody who hasn't?), Matmata is instantly recognizable once you are actually there. Most of the pits and craters are camouflaged in the desert surroundings. View image The Hotel Sidi Driss served as Luke's home when he lived with his Aunt and Uncle. Parts of the set are still incorporated in the walls of the Hotel, and our group had drinks there. "...may the force be with you." Sorry, couldn't resist ..and
Star Wars set
everyone had to pose for photos both in and outside of the Hotel Sidi Driss. View image
outside Hotel Sidi Driss
Continue reading "Matmata and its Troglodyte Caves, Tunisia" »
Next stop was El Djem with its unbelievable Amphitheatre second only to Rome's (Colosseum) amphitheatre. It is huge, capable of seating 35,000 spectators (Rome's Colosseum could seat about 45,000), and was probably used for gladiator shows and chariot races. Very. very impressive....sitting on a stone seat...ready to give the "thumbs up" or "thumbs down" signal...envisioning Ben Hur or Spartacus entering the arena. View image
The El Djem Amphitheatre (built around 238 AD), remained fairly intact until the 17th century and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1979.
El Djem Amphitheatre
When built by the Romans, stone was brought from quarries over 30 kms away. The distance doesn't sound like much now but it was a huge feat at that time.
El Djem Amphitheatre
Continue reading "El Djem and Sfax, Tunisia" »
Our Explore group was entirely British with the exception of us "Yanks", and two "Aussies" traveling for three months. Phil and Elizabeth had just come from Libya with Explore, and were going on to Morocco after Tunisia. We inundated them with questions about Libya, and most of their answers (primarily regarding accommodation and food) left us without a desire to see it....yet. In the future, yes.
The on-the-road portion of our tour started in Kairouan, considered the fourth holiest city of Islam - after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. There are two famous mosques in the city, the Mosque of the Barber, and the Great Mosque. View image
courtyard of Mosque
Judaism, also had a long history during the early Middle Ages in Kairouan with many famous and important Rabbis who studied there.
We walked from our Hotel Tunisia through the walled ramparts into Kairouan's famous Souk/Medina with all its traditional crafts. The Souk is surrounded by walls but it was easy to find your way around (one way in, one way out). Kairouan merchants rely on tourism for much of their income and I certainly didn't mind going in and out of every single shop that looked promising. Kairouan will always be remembered as the place I bought rugs #1 and 2.
Continue reading "Kairouan, Tunisia" »
Landed in Tunis and met the Explore group of 14 at Hotel Omrane, walking distance from the Souk/Medina (old market). The Hotel was actually a very nice Hostel located in the heart of the city and in the middle of the business center, a 5-minute walk from the big station of the Tunisian National Railways (S.N.C.F.T.).
Our guide took us on an afternoon walking tour into the Souk. Tunis is a very modern but walking into the Souk immediately transports you into a colorful Arab atmosphere of custom-made perfumes, dim narrow streets that look more like alleys, and lots of shops selling rugs.
Tunis Medina Map
This was my first encounter with Tunisian, Moroccan, Algerian-style rugs - primarily flat weave "Kilims" and I fell in love with the vibrant colors and story each one told. Within days, I was a woman possessed and had embarked on a major carpet buying spree that lasted throughout the trip. (The suitcases just got heavier and heavier.) I rarely saw a carpet that didn't whisper, "Sheila, buy me."
Continue reading "Tunis, Tunisia" »
We picked an Explore departure for March, 2004 thinking the weather would be a little warmer at that time. Tunisia has a Mediterranean climate and winters can be very cold.
Air? It was easiest for us to fly United from Chicago-Frankfurt, and then Frankfurt-Tunis on Lufthansa. Other airlines that fly there with only one stop are: Delta, Air France, American, Alitalia. Plenty of choices but no one flies to Tunis direct from the U.S., you'll have to change planes.
Visa? Not required. Passport only.
Health? Nothing compulsory, but we always keep our Hep A, Polio and Tetanus up-to-date. This would be a "bottled water" trip along with the usual "don't eat off the street."
Continue reading "Making Plans for Tunisia" »
Unique travel destinations always raise the question, "Why do you want to go there?" and Tunisia was no exception. Because....Tunisia has Ancient Carthage, fantastic Dougga, sand dunes, Isle of Jerba, and....
Star Wars was filmed here!
Next question? "Is it safe?" Fellow travelers, we have to get a grip on reality and stop thinking that every Arab or Muslim country is loaded with extremists just waiting to rip our eyeballs out. "ex-Marine" (husband, Steve) and I (of course, he doesn't go around wearing his old fatigues...not that they would fit) have found without exception, the Arabs to be extremely courteous, hospitable people. Perhaps, it is our working vocabulary of four words in Arabic - "hello" - "peace" - "thank you" - and "maybe tomorrow." ("Maybe tomorrow" is the clincher!)
map of Tunisia
Continue reading "Fascinating Tunisia" »
It wouldn't have been a perfect trip for "ex-Marine" unless he paid a visit to Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox, just to see the field. A game was in progress and he asked Security if he could just see the inside of the Fenway and leave, happy. When the Head of Security turned out to be another "ex-Marine", well...you can imagine...he was escorted in and invited to stay as long as he wanted! A very happy baseball fan.
Shelley also drove us up to Cape Ann one day just to give us an idea of the towns along the North Shore. She likes eating as much as we do and we consumed massive quantities of ice cream. (Forget the sights, bring on the ice cream.)
Continue reading "Still More Boston to Do and See" »
There was an abundance of historical and non-historical sights to cover, but some of our favorites were:
Faneuil Hall, known as the Cradle of Liberty where all important debates leading to the Revolutionary War were held. The restored building and marketplace is filled with shops, restaurants and cafes.
Paul Revere House. The only house still standing in downtown Boston, built in 1630. Paul and family purchased and moved into the house in 1770, and owned it for 30 years. There is a charge to visit and you then take a self-guided tour. The small house contains artifcats, maps, documents and exhibits.
Continue reading "More Boston Sights" »
In my opinion, historic cities are wasted on our children. Sure, we (and they) have learned about the Boston Tea Party, the Old North Church, Boston's Freedom Trail, Bunker Hill and Paul Revere in school, but it becomes much more meaningful when you visit these places as an adult. Not to mention, all those episodes of Cheers that have worn a "Boston groove" in my brain.
With this in mind, "ex-Marine" (husband, Steve) and I decided that a few days would be both educational and fun. And, my friend, Shelley who had recently moved to Boston could give us an insider's view.
Continue reading "A Few Short Days in Boston" »
In the late afternoon, another flight to Delhi and a room at the Radisson Hotel near the Airport. Delhi's airports are separated into two buildings, domestic and international, about a mile or so apart.
International flights commonly depart at the oh-so-lovely hours of 2:25 am, etc., which is why we paid for a room. Your other alternative is to sit at the airport for hours since hotels kick you out by noon, and even if they give you a late checkout, they certainly won't let you stay until midnight!
It was such a shame to waste a first-class seat utilizing only the reclining seat to sleep in. (The last thing either of us wanted was dinner or wine at 3:00 AM!)
Continue reading "Back to New Delhi, and The Trip is Over...India" »
Some of the other game spotted at Bandhavgarh National Park were different deer, and jackals in the brush ...View image...and alongside the road. Jackals are supposed to be difficult to spot but we saw them almost every day.
Our naturalist spotted tiger tracks right next to the road and we circled (and swept) the entire park many times looking for this big male with no luck. Up and down hills, around the worker's homes, looking into every bush...still no tiger in sight. The naturalist could tell the tiger had been lying there for a long time by the depth of the paw indentations. This was one big guy!
Tiger prints
Jackal
After our morning game drive was over (no tigers spotted today), it was another 6+ hour drive to Khajuraho.
Continue reading "Khajuraho Temple Complex, India" »
|
