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« March 2006 |
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| May 2006 »
Walking, biking, hiking can be very luxurious when you use the right people to plan your trip.
I haven't used the tour operators listed below, but they all are highly recommended by personal friends. For biking, walking, hiking and multi-sport trips, check out these:
- Butterfield & Robinson
- Country Walkers
- Backroads
Some of their trips are very easy. Think...strolling down paths through the Loire Chateau country, 5***** hotels...drinking wine...eating gourmet dinners....double yummy! Or a cooking class...or sitting at a cafe sketching pictures. And if you pick a walking/biking/multi-sport trip, there is usually a "sag wagon" if you poop out or don't want to do anything that day.
And, among the many other operators are:
- Tauck Travel
- Abercrombie & Kent
Any of these Tour Operators will be happy to arrange private trips if you'd rather not travel with a group (or form your own group).
I also read Conde Nast Traveler, Travel and Leisure - even if you can't afford the trips these tour operators offer (and magazines suggest), it's still makes for a fun and interesting read....and gives me ideas.
Then I go to "Lonely Planet ", and research some lower budget operators, but this article is for you luxury people. (Must admit...we have taken some luxury trips in the past.) I'm sure you all have travel agents and have had experiences with these tour companies, but it never hurts to suggest different possibilities. I even get Private Jet mailings! How that happened, I'll never know...but if I could afford it...I'd do it.
Continue reading "Galapagos? India? More Unique Luxury Trips" »
Other friends of mine have commented that while my articles are interesting, they like more luxurious vacations. I understand...we all need some luxury in our lives. So, Diane and Jerry, here are some thoughts for you.
Go to following websites and look at some of the previous trips ex-Marine and I have taken. (I never recommend a tour operator that I haven't used!) Every now and then, we "bite the bullet" and spend lots of $$$ because these trips are so unique. Also, I definitely use an American organizer for "iffy" countries because they will move heaven and earth to make sure you enter, travel through, and leave those places - SAFELY.
Mountain Travel Sobek - Look at their "Golden Kingdoms of West Africa" through Ghana, Benin and Togo. View image Not only is it a stupendous trip, but MT-S's operators in West Africa, Roberto and Alberto are fun, organized and fantastic. They bring wine, show tremendous caring for their clients, and go out of their way to accommodate your interests.
Our trip was during the Christmas season. We were tooling along the road when our car passed a biker carrying a turkey (hanging by his feet) upside down from the handlebars. Our American group got all excited, "Turkey for Christmas." Roberto immediately stopped all three or four vehicles, jumped out and started negotiating for the turkey. Victory was ours, and the Turkey rode on top of our vehicle until dinner time! When our cook, bar-be-qued it.
Yes, that trip did involve a total of 5 nites camping out of the 15-day trip, but that is because there are no Ritz or Four Seasons equivalent hotels in that part of the world. MT-S also has many non-camping, great luxury (and non-luxury) trips to some unsual destinations. If that's not for you....
How about "Adventuring in South Africa" with Wilderness Travel? When you pull up the itinerary on Wilderness' website, there is our photo along with the other 5 people on this trip! It was a complete surprise to us, but there we are. This was a total luxury trip - NO CAMPING, DIANE! Filled with spectacular game viewing, South Africa's world famous wines and food, and unbelievable accommodations. The trip has changed somewhat since we did this (ours included the fabulous Phinda Forest Lodge View image), but MT-S also can put together a private journey for you.
Continue reading "Africa? Yemen? Unique Luxury Trips" »
Susan Sullivan, in Texas, travels with some women-friends and asked if I had any tips to s..t..r..e.. t..c..h those Euros further.
There are 1,000's of articles and books on that subject, but this is what I do, have done, and suggest.
If you're talking about two weeks, limit yourself to one country, two at the most and travel around.
Train hop - buy a rail pass - single, or multiple country - RailEurope. Try not to ever train on a Saturday or Sunday without a reservation on popular routes unless you have a 1st class pass or ticket. It is mobbed!
Use your ATM card. I've always found it to have the best conversion rate and, on a side note, love to hear that little machine chugging away, spitting out my money!
We aren't backpackers/youth hostel people, and don't like sharing bathrooms with others (unless there is no choice) so I'm not talking "spending months in Europe on $1,000." And, a little spontaneity goes a long way for me. I like to start with a beginning hotel reservation, and then move on. Try hotelguide.com  , or Hotelopia . However, most airports, and train stations have room-finding booths, and can help you if that's your druthers.
Air? Just keep searching all the sites...try entering different days...sometimes it makes a huge difference travelling on a Thursday vs. Friday. Look at some of the "cheap" airlines...check cheapo or visit AirfaresBasement.com to find low cost quality fares
For summer think:
- Slovenia (including the tour operator we are going to use in May, Helia)
- Turkey - go on the Adventure Center site - they only have 77 different Turkey trips to choose from
old Roman theater
Antalya
- Croatia
- or Greece.
Continue reading "Europe - Maximizing Your Budget" »
I have met so many women over the years who say, "I'd love to travel, but my husband (or significant other) has no desire."
What are you waiting for? Do they consult you when a fishing, hunting, golfing trip is planned with the boys? I think not!
Go with a group...whether it's hiking, rafting, kayaking, trekking, painting, cooking classes, fishing, tennis camp, spas, volunteering, sightseeing....there is a group (or trip) for you. It doesn't have to be a specialized "women-only group."
Continue reading "Woman - Leave That Man at Home and Travel!" »
The trip was over. We watched movies all the way home on United and Josh actually slept a little. Then it took ages to gather up his PSP, power adaptors, gum, magazines, and all the other necessities he couldn't travel without.
Josh was excited to see his family, tell about Paris, and hand out PRESENTS.
We saw, and did, more each day than was humanly possible, but those little legs of his, bounding up and down the stairs, and that mind that never stopped working, made it a fabulous trip.
This was something we will never forget and I know, neither will he. As Josh said, "This is Paris and I have to see everything but who knows when I'll see this again." How very true.
Continue reading "Grandchild - End of Trip to Paris" »
Another warm day...and, of course, I only brought jeans which are darn hot for walking around. Today, Josh wanted to see the Pompidou Museum of Modern Art. It was about a mile walk from our hotel...relatively easy. The architecture is so interesting...with tubular escalators on the outside of the building...and lots of entertainment going on by street performers. View image
Josh said, "This is the coolest thing in Paris."
But it was even more interesting for Josh, and us, on the inside. There was a new exhibit called The Big Bang which would capture anybody's attention. The exhibition was built around modern and contemporary art works and combined fine arts, photography, cinema, video, architecture, design and literature.
Destruction, Construction/Deconstruction, Anarchism, Sex, War, Subversion, Melancholy and Re-enchantment were the themes. And when you look at some of the photos below, you will definitely understand why a teen-age boy would be intrigued.
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Days 4 & 5" »
Our Paris Hotel, Hotel Moderne, was situated beautifully. Near the metro (subway), The Sorbonne, Notre Dame. There was a big buffet breakfast which included: ham, cheese, croissants, french baquettes (Josh's favorite), yoghurt, juice, coffee. They also had a computer with free internet so Josh was able to Instant Message back and forth to his parents and friends in the U.S. Everyone got a big kick out of that. View image Another important part of each morning, was racing to the Internet to checkout White Sox scores. This was Labor Day Weekend, 2005, and both Josh and ex-Marine are BIG White Sox fans!
Some internet sites I used to help with this trip were Paris Info, and France Guide. Lots of information.
Today, we were heading out to Fontainebleau. I wanted Josh to see a real chateau, and have a chance to get out to the countryside by train. And, since he is interested in Napoleon...thought it would be interesting.
It took several metro connections to get to the Gare de Lyon....RER train to Fontainebleau/Avon...then Bus A to the Chateau.
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Day 3" »
We were there, Josh got a stamp in his passport, and our little 14-year old EverReady Bunny was off and running. The big priorities were: going to McDonald's for Chicken McNuggets; hitting an ATM for Euros, and walking over to Notre Dame Cathedral. (Our hotel was situated within walking distance from Notre Dame.) View image
Josh's first bit of culture shock - young people kissing and "making out" in broad daylight on every street corner! In his words..."how rude". Second, you have to pay to use a toilet...."it's so cruel". Third, people don't curb their dogs and you have to watch out for "poop" on sidewalks. Fourth, "why are all the people smoking?"
A fast nap and his major focus in Paris - The Eiffel Tower. The wait wasn't too long...elevator to the top...wonderful views and walked down from the 2nd level. Rather, I walked down...he ran down. It's very hot in Paris and crowded. Dinner at Polidor, on the Left Bank but Josh didn't enjoy his meal that much...probably would have preferred McDonald's again. Kids....
After being on the go all day - metro's, stairs, walking...Josh didn't even have the energy to use his Ps2! Lights out!!
Continue reading "Grandchild in Paris, Days 1 and 2" »
Why not! I have always hoped that my grandchildren would develop a love of travel and exploration. It is exciting to see (and hear) the impact of these places through their eyes while teaching history and language in a fun atmosphere. If you ask, "Where in the World would you like to go?"...the answer will usually be: Disney World, Cooperstown, Six Flags, etc. Persist with the questions, and I heard: Tokyo, Paris, Rome (like "Lizzy McGuire") and Australia.
With this in mind, we decided to take 14-year old, Josh, to Paris, over Labor Day weekend....cramming in what he wanted to see in 4 days. It's only an 8-hour flight from Chicago, you can drink the water, one of the most beautiful cities in the world with so much to see, and it wouldn't cost more more than the two of us since he'd sleep in our room.
His dad bought a Paris guide book for him to work up an itinerary of his interests.
We took care of the essential details:
Air - United, non-stop and used miles to get a free ticket for Josh;
Hotel- Hotel Moderne on the Left Bank, thought the "Student Quarter" would be more interesting to a teenager.
Continue reading "Paris - Take Your Grandchild (or Child)?" »
We couldn't have asked for better weather...untypically London...sunny! I'm not going to go into depth on each place visited. You can get all the info off the websites in my previous article, primarily Visit London Tourism. It was time for 3 days of "power-touring":
If you are going to tour London, I highly recommended getting a London Pass, which will get you discounts to many top London attractions.
The Tower of London; The Clink View image (I personally like the London Dungeon better); Winston Churchill's War Rooms (his command center during World War II); Changing of the Guard (you can see on alternate days only); Westminster Cathedral; Big Ben; West End; walked across Tower Bridge; along the Thames Embankment; The Imperial War Museum (one of the few places in London that was free); and a few others that I will tell a little more about. All of these sites were picked by our adult children who were accompanying us.
We also made the "must" visits to Harrods and Hamleys. A word about Hamleys...years before Toys "R" Us was conceived...there was Hamleys. A five-floor store, filled with nothing but toys, on Regent Street. I remember taking my young sons there in the mid-70's and being blown away by the array of toys. And it is still a beautiful, amazing place to visit.
Continue reading "Wandering Around London" »
Yes, it is VERY expensive for Americans to visit London these days. But it can still be done. Our adult daughter and son-in-law were meeting us for their first trip to London and I wanted them to have a great experience.
Days of interneting until my fingers were ready to fall off but finally came up with Hotels-London, a website with hotels, information and, best of all, one of the few sites where I didn't have to completely prepay the entire stay. What I also liked about their site was their responsiveness. They answered quickly and went out of their way to change one room from twin to double. I would definitely use them again.
We selected the London Elizabeth Hotel, located Bayswater Road and Lancaster Gate (also a "tube" stop - or for us Americans - "tube" is a subway), just a few feet away from Hyde Park. The cost was 88.00 Pounds/nite for a twin-bedded room including continental buffet breakfast, 17.5% VAT tax, and service. In $, it converts to $153.00/night. For Britain, that's not bad...not good...but not bad. You can get B&B's and other hotels for less, but be warned, most rooms are extremely tiny...think climbing over each other and bags to get to the bathroom. British rooms are usually dowdy and cramped unless you pay a lot! If you have a Ritz or Savoy budget, no worries for you!
Hotel London Elizabeth Facade
Continue reading "The Latest on London" »
There are high altitude trails; easy trails; trails to walk with children to see the Marmots; for die-hards - Tour Monte Rosa - a walk consisting of 9 daily stages (total of 290 km). You can ascend the Matterhorn (you can, not me) - 4 hours up and 4 hours down with a guide. Barbeque facilities; folklore; climbing walls; geological trips; mountain bike tours; mule trekking; ornithological walks; paragliding; tennis; fishing; swimming pools. Even Summer Camps for snowboarders and skiers the end of July and beginning of August. Is that enough to occupy yourself?
Or, you can sit and do nothing but look at that awesome Matterhorn, wildflowers and people-watch. (swiss flexipass )
Continue reading "Visiting Switzerland in the Summer" »
We selected the Hotel Aristella for our stay. There are umpteen hotels, pensions, apartments in Zermatt...it's a matter of choice. What tipped Hotel Aristella in my favor was their blurb about excellent cuisine...that is the way to my heart. (They didn't mislead us...the food was excellent!)
Since Lufthansa had managed to lose our luggage between Frankfurt and Zurich, our hotel turned out to be even more important. Natalie and Katerine (front desk people) went out of their way to place phone call after phone call to Lufthansa, Zermatt Post Office, etc., trying to track the bags down. How important was that? Everyone has experienced dialing a call and going through umpteen prompts before a live person answers? Try that when all the prompts are in German! They translated for us, the owners threw our hand-washed laundry into their dryers at no charge...they were all just downright wonderful...and the bags finally materialized, three days later!
We learned our lesson years ago and always travel with hiking boots (or winter boots) on our feet, warm jackets, hats, gloves on us...and never pack your medications or toiletries in your luggage. Just in case! And it was a good thing those items were on us (or with us). It helped us muddle by until the luggage materialized..
Continue reading "In Zermatt, Snowshoeing or Summer Hiking in Switzerland" »
Ex-marine and I just returned from snow-shoing in Zermatt, Switzerland, and thought other "directionally/ language challenged " people (like us) would like to know how very easy it is to travel in Europe...especially in Switzerland.
- Train stops are usually repeated in three languages: German, French and English.
- They give you a timetable telling what platform your train leaves from and what platform your next train leaves if you are making connections.
- The conductors all speak English.
- There are tourist information offices in the stations with English-speaking personnel, maps, bus information.
- Credit cards are accepted everywhere for everything.
- Big train stations have ATM's, McDonald's, Burger King, small food stalls.
Always carry or buy water though...the water on the trains is considered "Non-Potable" or, "don't even think about drinking it"! The Europeans usually carry sandwiches, munchies, wine, etc. on trains to nosh while travelling. There are also rolling carts that come through on board selling food items, but they are more expensive. If you have a long journey, buy what you need beforehand. Take some Baggies with you.
It is impossible for any country to make it any easier to travel.
Continue reading "Using the Swiss Train System" »
In the morning, we hiked down (for a change) through the fields and mountains, to where our Land Rover was waiting. View image
Cellular phones rank right up there as one of the great inventions of the modern world when traveling. Not for us...but them! Everyone in China carries a cell phone, and they work in the mountains. A good thing because on the way back to to "Shangri-La", Khampa called us to say that our flight was cancelled on the following day and we would have to fly to Kunming that night.
They arranged for a guide to meet us at Kunming airport , a hotel room for the night, and transfers back to the airport. You really need a guide (unless you speak Chinese) in these areas. Few airline personnel spoke English, in Kunming, and it turned out to be complicated reissuing the tickets for an earlier flight.
Continue reading "Back to "Shangri-La", Yunnan, China" »
The Monastery school was founded to teach cultural and communal education to disadvantaged children along the Mekong Valley. This is where our Head Monk lived and taught.
Another long hike...up a narrow, steep ridge...we were there...last stop on our trek. The monastery had built a new building just for guests which turned out to be us that night. Our room had many windows looking out on the prayer flags, fields, gardens, beautiful mountains around us....
Continue reading "Staying at the Monastery, Yunnan, China" »
In Nyithang, Lobsang found a "hotel" built around a large "U"-shaped courtyard with individual rooms on the second floor - little stores at ground level. The Chinese woman who ran the "hotel" wouldn't let us stay until she ran upstairs to reclean a room, and then sat down at her sewing machine to whip up some new sheets for us. View image
We stayed at a variety of Tibetan guesthouses/homes. Some were quite beautiful and others just adequate. But the one thing they all had in common was cleanliness and warm hospitality.
At this home, our host had been a "big deal" in the Chinese Government (they're wearing their Mao caps!) and the inside was huge. The main room was panelled in carved wood with a large pot-bellied stove in the middle. He, and his entire family (including married children) lived in this house, and during the winter everyone slept in this room, by the stove....the only heat in the house. There were corn cobs hanging from the ceiling to dry, and more spread out on the roof.
Continue reading "Tibetan Home Stays in Yunnan, China" »
Then came Day 4 - THE GORGE! We hiked up from our overnite, over the ridge, and there was a trail, winding alongside a beautiful gorge, very "Grand Canyon" looking. Terror struck.. along with the cold "flop sweats" and I couldn't even think of looking down or taking a picture. Exposure? there was a 1,000-2,000' sheer drop on my right all along the trail. I serously considered having hysterics, but the mountain, with a little river channel, was on my left for the entire distance. (I planned to throw myself in that direction if I slipped. ) You have never seen two people haul through that gorge as fast as we did. Ex-Marine is not fond of exposure either, and was shouting curses at me for getting us "into another fine mess".
It was very hot during the day, probably in the 60's, with high-altitude sun, and the terrain changed from forest paths to dry, sandy, scree-type trails. (For you non-hikers, scree is little bits of gravelly rocks that are constantly sliding out from under your feet.)
The gorge just wound on-and-on for hours, with the river way below us, and unchanged exposure.
Continue reading "The GORGE!! Yunnan Province, China" »
Many of the other Chinese tourists stayed at the same guesthouse we did. They were highly educated, spoke English...most worked/lived in Beijing or Shanghai. They too, were going to day hike the same area as we, but while we looked like two "street people", they were clad in the "height of mountain fashion." Coordinating "Goretex"...new boots, and the carrying the latest digital cameras.
The guesthouse was very clean, and Lobsang immediately went to work, cooking all our meals. The major problem was going to the toilet. Their "facilities" seemed to be about a block away from the guesthouse, and you literally had to "walk a plank" to get to it. A major challenge....especially at night, by flashlight.
The Chinese were very interested in us: why we decided to come to this area, where we lived, family questions, etc.
Continue reading "Day Hiking around Upper Legbam, China" »
We drove to the trailhead at Sharthang Hot springs to begin the trek, and were surprised to see other Land Rovers besides ours loaded with Chinese tourists. There were also horsemen assembling with their mounts. They were going to ride up to the top of the Pass and walk down. We were going to trek for approximately 6 hours, climbing 3,000 feet. It didn't take brain surgery to decide who the smart ones were!
What was I thinking setting up the itinerary - trek 6 hours, climb 3,000 feet to 12,000 feet with only one day of acclimitizing?
Continue reading "Our "Holy Trek" Begins in Yunnan Province, China" »
Only spent one night in Gyalthang because we had visited before. In hindsight, that wasn't enough to acclimitize. It was our decision, not Khampa's. There is much to see around Gyalthang - huge drying racks for the wheat, a beautiful monastery, lakes, the town itself, but we did that last time.
The trip consisted of: a 7-day trek (with Tibetan home stays); visiting monasteries along the way; stopping at local craft villages (each village has their speciality - potters, wood carvers, etc.); and even a vineyard. Starting and ending in Gyalthang/Shangri-La.
Our Khampa Caravan guides were Lobsang, accompanied by two assistants: the Head Monk/Teacher of the Tashi Dhoephel Monastery School (located deep in the Mekong Valley that we were going to visit and stay at on Day 7), and his teenage monk-in-training.
Continue reading "Gyalthang, China - Up and Over the Pass" »
Many of my articles include the words - "trekking" and "hiking". Don't let these words scare you away...the majority of these places can be visited "culturally", giving you a chance to see most of what we saw, minus the sweat.
Mt. Khawakarpo, is located in Northwest Yunnan Province, China, and considered a "Holy Mountain" by Tibetan Buddhists. The area is culturally Tibetan with some of the highest biodiversity in the world. There are fertile highlands, charming villages both high in the mountains, and down along the watershed tributaries of the Mekong. View image
Continue reading "Mt. Khawarkarpo Trek, China" »
After Nubra, it was back to Leh to Delhi to Frankfurt to Chicago. A long trip, both in Ladakh and in the air, but immensely satisfying.
It's always difficult coping with altitude, strange food, drinking only bottled or boiled water, using bushes for toilet facilities and hiking to the top of a mountain....but so worthwhile! And, what a sense of accomplishment.
I love countries where people can still be seen in their native costumes; interacting with them; and meeting fellow travelers from other countries.
Continue reading "The Trip to Ladakh, India Was Over" »
The drive to the Nubra Valley from Leh, goes over the Kardung La pass, considered the highest road in the world at 18,372 feet above sea level. Everyone stops their vehicle at the top for photo ops, puts on their warmest jacket, and staggers around, gasping for breath.
Out hats are off to everyone who climbs at, and above, that altitude! There is always a risk of high-altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema, headaches and hypertension
The Nubra Valley was one of the last staging areas for the caravan trade with Central Asia, The climate is a little milder than the rest of Ladakh, and there are still small amount of Bactrian (double-humped) camels. You can even take a camel trek from Hunder (a town in the valley) for a day. I love to watch camels....they have such great personalities and make wonderful noises.
Continue reading "The Remote Nubra Valley, Ladakh, India" »
From Lamaryu, it was off to Dha Hanu, an area only 19 Kilometers from the Pakistani border. It doesn't take much imagination to visualize the military presence in that area. Dha Hanu is in the Kargil region west of Leh. The people are of pure Indo-Aryan stock, perhaps descending from the army of Alexander of Macedonia. There are only about 2,000 people settled in five villages high above the river.
Once again, we made camp, this time in the midst of trees laden with ripe apricots. I got a major "fiber-fix" - picking apricots, eating apricots, for two days. They were SO delicious.
Continue reading "Remote Dha Hanu, Ladakh, India" »
The last day of our trek, we came down to a road where our jeep was waiting, and continued to Lamayuru. You have to cross the Fatu-la pass, an extremely scary winding road. It was hard to decide whether or not I was more frightened going up the mountain or going down the other side.
The first sight of Lamayuru gompa and town was stupifying. (The work that went into building anything in (and on) these stark mountains, and that people live here is amazing.) It is the oldest monastery in Ladakh, belonging to the 10th century with some richly furnished rooms..... .
Continue reading "Lamayuru Gompa, Ladakh, India" »
I love destination trekking - going from place-to-place, and don't even mind sleeping in tents. What I do mind is, getting out of the tents at night for toilet reasons. Anyone who camps knows exactly what I mean. You have to unzip your sleeping bag, unzip the tent, put on Tevas, find a flashlight, and make your way to a toilet area - looking out for snakes and other beasties!
But this was going to be a a "piece of cake" - we had a four or five mules - plus mule tender - to haul everything, a guide, and, not one, but two cooks/assistants (from Nepal). View image
Footloose Travel's local operator consulted us on every aspect of the trek including: what foods we liked; any allergies; and was very patient answering our questions.
The Sham trekking route is a very well-traveled . It was fun meeting other trekking groups, from other countries, and "schmoozing", comparing notes and getting new ideas.
Continue reading "Planning The Sham Trek in Ladakh, India" »
We spent our first few days in Leh trying to breath at an altitude of over 11,000 feet - ex-Marine always has trouble with altitude sickness, even with "Diamox" (a prescription drug for altitude) - resting as much as possible.
Leh is situated on a plateau formed by the Indus river and was founded in the 14th century by a king who built over 108 chortens (or stupas).
Buddhism is the major religion in Ladakh which emerged in the third century BC, and we did a lot of day-tripping to different "gompas" (monasteries). Almost every "gompa" is built UP on a hill in some remote destination. The reason was that seclusion is the essence of Buddhism. Therefore, gompas were built high on the mountains because the higher their faith was, the closer they would be to the diety.
Continue reading "In Leh, The Capital of Ladakh, India" »
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